Any Hacker there, you people are just joking.
I need a help in wireless Phone hacking.
From which internte is connected to PC’s.
13 number card hacking tools.
Thanks.
Hackmaster!

Good site/blog….It’s unique

Great buddy keep it up

Like if someone unknowingly used a poe wire to plug in a laptop on the roof to diagnose something.

If I understand Steve’s diagram right, he’s simply sticking a voltage onto the spare pairs?

I’m not going to tell Steve he’s in any way wrong to do that, but I would strongly recommend to anyone looking into implimenting PoE for any reason (homebrew or otherwise) to NOT do this. If you’re at all interested in using PoE, go google for 802.3af where a really quite standard has been laid out. Then, go purchase some magnetic modular RJ45 jacks for a very small cost and swap them into whatever device you need to PoE enable. The 802.3af standard has numerous failsafes designed into it, when you look at them it really is a no brainer. The various jacks have centre-tapped transformers with series and shunt chokes to filter common mode interference. It’s perhaps a few bucks of gear and a lot less work.

I would also recommend injecting at 48V and using something like DC-DC convertors or even just a potential divide to get the voltage levels you require at the other end. For more than a few meters of cat5 it’s just common sense to do so. When running 48V you can get the full potential of 15W out of your 4 ‘spare ‘lines (there are also draft standards for about 56W but you’re looking at phantom power techniques here)

Good luck.

PoE standard is much more complicated and uses sensing protocols to determine if a device is PoE compliant before initiating a 48v feed from the PoE controller.

In short, although this may work with your own hacked kit, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE plug either your powered device or powered network cable into anything other than your own hacked devices.

However, it’s a free world…. so try what you like!

cheers

I thought it would be an issue as well, but the WRT54G series has an excellent onboard voltage regulator. It can handle pretty much anything between 6 and 18 volts. I haven’t measured the amperage very accurately, but it’s running from my desktop’s PSU with no trouble at all.

you read my mind. resistance in the cable should make the voltage at the router’s end a bit lower. it seems the router is ok at the lower voltage though, otherwise it wouldn’t be working.

I use Celwave 3/8″ hardline for my rooftop wifi. It’s affordable for less than a dollar a foot. Connectors are $20 a piece though. This runs to a high gain vertical, and I can reach out even further using my commercial equipment I have on the tower.

The best thing to do though is get yourself an amateur radio license, then you can get into the good equipment that you can put some power behind.

(The technician license should be a no brainer for anyone reading this site.)

You’re not taking the cable resistance into mind when powering it or putting serial data on it. At 100 feet, the cable should have a resistance of 5.16 ohms per conductor, so 10.32 ohms per V+/Gnd and TX/RX. If, on power, the router is pulling 1amp, you are dropping 10v, so only 2v would get to the router. I’m assuming its .5a or .25a, so dropping 5.16 or 2.58v, so you get 7v or 9.5v at the router. For the serial port, what power/logic levels is it running at? 5v? I doubt it’s 12v. How much current is the router sinking for data?

Grab another 100 foot cable, add a 14ohm resistor to one end, and then 12v to the other end. It should pull .5 amps and measure 7 volts at the resistor. Adjust accordingly.

Interestingly enough, I just made my own PoE injector for my aironet access point last night. Hackaday must have been reading my mind…

my improvements would be:

- weatherproof enclosure; many avail for WRTs
- tap out the PoE and Serial neatly in the enclosure
- use a simple 2-port RJ-45 box to breakout on the far end; use the Cisco-style pinouts and a decent cable
- high gain antennas of course