<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:geo="http://www.w3.org/2003/01/geo/wgs84_pos#" xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: How-To: Go green with lead free solder</title>
	<atom:link href="http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/</link>
	<description>Fresh hacks every day</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:41:33 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.com/</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jake Milton</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-568420</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake Milton]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Jan 2012 14:58:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-568420</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I provide quality hardware that is highly respected and reliable.  RoHS is NOT sufficient and I refuse to ruin my companies name or the reputation of our products to satisfy requirements set by bureaucrats not experts.

Furthermore the health of my employees is very important to me and my company therefore I will not subject them to the increased toxicity of RoHS solder.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I provide quality hardware that is highly respected and reliable.  RoHS is NOT sufficient and I refuse to ruin my companies name or the reputation of our products to satisfy requirements set by bureaucrats not experts.</p>
<p>Furthermore the health of my employees is very important to me and my company therefore I will not subject them to the increased toxicity of RoHS solder.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: M. Geran</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-566976</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[M. Geran]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2012 07:45:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-566976</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&quot;As the comments show . . . more dangerous&quot;
Sorry, casual speculation in comments on a blog do not amount to proof. Nice job lying to make a profit, though. Real classy.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;As the comments show . . . more dangerous&#8221;<br />
Sorry, casual speculation in comments on a blog do not amount to proof. Nice job lying to make a profit, though. Real classy.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Royce</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-552139</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Royce]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 01:28:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-552139</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Yes, I can confirm: according to extensive tests done by Honeywell Aerospace, lead free solder &quot;show equal to or better than reliability&quot; over lead free solder especially dealing with &quot;temperature cycle, vibration, and mechanical shock&quot;.  This makes good sense, think about it, if it is applied at a slightly higher temperature, a bit more durability is to be expected.  Here is the website the information originated: http://www51.honeywell.com/aero/common/documents/RoHS_FAQ_V2.pdf]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes, I can confirm: according to extensive tests done by Honeywell Aerospace, lead free solder &#8220;show equal to or better than reliability&#8221; over lead free solder especially dealing with &#8220;temperature cycle, vibration, and mechanical shock&#8221;.  This makes good sense, think about it, if it is applied at a slightly higher temperature, a bit more durability is to be expected.  Here is the website the information originated: <a href="http://www51.honeywell.com/aero/common/documents/RoHS_FAQ_V2.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www51.honeywell.com/aero/common/documents/RoHS_FAQ_V2.pdf</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Zedrich</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-551740</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Zedrich]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jan 2012 14:06:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-551740</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[And 75-90% of those electronics fail within a year or two because of whiskers, thermal and mechanical stress, ans a bunch of other factors that leaded solder would take without a problem.

Not to mention that consumers don&#039;t open these things and go lick and suck on the boards and components like they were popsicles, much less repair them themselves. And anyone with enough intelligence and common sense will wash their hands after doing any repairs, etc.

I remember the time when RRoD and YLOD was majorly caused NOT by hardware failure, but because the LEAD-FREE solder balls cracked and fractured under constant heating and cooling cycles, not to mention whiskers. And they had the audacity to charge $100 or more to fix the problem (if warranty expired)

tl,dr corporate greed, not corporate green, as well as lack of research, is the root of the problems that cause this. Oh, don&#039;t forget to add average consumer ignorance, lack of or mis-information.

Add that damned SOPA bill to the mix and we get a crapstorm of epic proportions that will, ironically, make the world a WORSE place to live in. (For the average-income Joes, at least.)]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>And 75-90% of those electronics fail within a year or two because of whiskers, thermal and mechanical stress, ans a bunch of other factors that leaded solder would take without a problem.</p>
<p>Not to mention that consumers don&#8217;t open these things and go lick and suck on the boards and components like they were popsicles, much less repair them themselves. And anyone with enough intelligence and common sense will wash their hands after doing any repairs, etc.</p>
<p>I remember the time when RRoD and YLOD was majorly caused NOT by hardware failure, but because the LEAD-FREE solder balls cracked and fractured under constant heating and cooling cycles, not to mention whiskers. And they had the audacity to charge $100 or more to fix the problem (if warranty expired)</p>
<p>tl,dr corporate greed, not corporate green, as well as lack of research, is the root of the problems that cause this. Oh, don&#8217;t forget to add average consumer ignorance, lack of or mis-information.</p>
<p>Add that damned SOPA bill to the mix and we get a crapstorm of epic proportions that will, ironically, make the world a WORSE place to live in. (For the average-income Joes, at least.)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jake Milton</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-482934</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jake Milton]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Oct 2011 00:59:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-482934</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As the comments show lead free is worthless and more dangerous.

PS: I sell stuff too but claim its RoHS for EU buyers.  Not to worried about the UN coming after me.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As the comments show lead free is worthless and more dangerous.</p>
<p>PS: I sell stuff too but claim its RoHS for EU buyers.  Not to worried about the UN coming after me.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Darron</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-471734</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Darron]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Oct 2011 14:53:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-471734</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Use the 96% tin, 3% silver lead free. 99% tin has tin whisker problems, silver doped supposedly does not (or it&#039;s much reduced).

My main problem is I can&#039;t seem to clean the damn no clean flux residue. NC is fine for paste, but for hand soldering there&#039;s residue and I need to get rid of it.

I&#039;m selling stuff, so of course I need to use LF.

Once you get used to LF, it&#039;s not really much different. It absolutely sucked the first day, yes... but after figuring it out it&#039;s no big deal.

In fact, having to use flux more often on QFPs, etc actually improved my technique and speed at doing them.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Use the 96% tin, 3% silver lead free. 99% tin has tin whisker problems, silver doped supposedly does not (or it&#8217;s much reduced).</p>
<p>My main problem is I can&#8217;t seem to clean the damn no clean flux residue. NC is fine for paste, but for hand soldering there&#8217;s residue and I need to get rid of it.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m selling stuff, so of course I need to use LF.</p>
<p>Once you get used to LF, it&#8217;s not really much different. It absolutely sucked the first day, yes&#8230; but after figuring it out it&#8217;s no big deal.</p>
<p>In fact, having to use flux more often on QFPs, etc actually improved my technique and speed at doing them.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Royce</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-457724</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Royce]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Sep 2011 17:24:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-457724</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I will tell you, I have been using Lead Free solder (all brands are Tin baised) for years, and I love it.
Lead Free solder works and works fast.
Truthfully, you will not tell the difference!  Except that lead free solder will not dull over time and moisture.
I love it.
Does it conduct electricity great: Yes.
Have I ever seen it make whiskers: Never ever ever.
About the melting temperature, if you concentrate really hard, you can tell that it does melt at a slightly higher temperature, but you really have to be looking for it.

Look, I&#039;ve soldered electronics and larger joints on hobby 10 gauge Antennas, and it works great, especially in the moisture, and it does not water drip away as fast as lead.

This stuff is the cat&#039;s meow, and no wiskers; I believe they solved that problem years ago by doping the tin with other elements they use today whether it is Copper/Bismuth/Silver or Copper/Selenium or Antimony, but I wouldn&#039;t use the Antimony type because it may be a carcenigen.

The fears of lead users are understandable, will lead free solder work, will it cause problems.  In fact the main artical itself just echos very old problems that no longer exist in leadless solder.  However, all these concerns are really baseless.  Try it yourselves for a bit instead of just voicing your concerns and then you will be converted as I am.  This stuff is great, and it is functionally better in certain ways.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I will tell you, I have been using Lead Free solder (all brands are Tin baised) for years, and I love it.<br />
Lead Free solder works and works fast.<br />
Truthfully, you will not tell the difference!  Except that lead free solder will not dull over time and moisture.<br />
I love it.<br />
Does it conduct electricity great: Yes.<br />
Have I ever seen it make whiskers: Never ever ever.<br />
About the melting temperature, if you concentrate really hard, you can tell that it does melt at a slightly higher temperature, but you really have to be looking for it.</p>
<p>Look, I&#8217;ve soldered electronics and larger joints on hobby 10 gauge Antennas, and it works great, especially in the moisture, and it does not water drip away as fast as lead.</p>
<p>This stuff is the cat&#8217;s meow, and no wiskers; I believe they solved that problem years ago by doping the tin with other elements they use today whether it is Copper/Bismuth/Silver or Copper/Selenium or Antimony, but I wouldn&#8217;t use the Antimony type because it may be a carcenigen.</p>
<p>The fears of lead users are understandable, will lead free solder work, will it cause problems.  In fact the main artical itself just echos very old problems that no longer exist in leadless solder.  However, all these concerns are really baseless.  Try it yourselves for a bit instead of just voicing your concerns and then you will be converted as I am.  This stuff is great, and it is functionally better in certain ways.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Steven</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-419417</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steven]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:31:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-419417</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Is this a joke? Lead free solder is more dangerous to use than leaded solder, since the higher temperatures involved result in more toxic chemicals being vaporized. 

Durh, Let&#039;s save the environment by not using a metal that&#039;s already present in nature. Instead, let&#039;s use something less manageable and less reliable, resulting in more failures and more electronics being thrown away.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Is this a joke? Lead free solder is more dangerous to use than leaded solder, since the higher temperatures involved result in more toxic chemicals being vaporized. </p>
<p>Durh, Let&#8217;s save the environment by not using a metal that&#8217;s already present in nature. Instead, let&#8217;s use something less manageable and less reliable, resulting in more failures and more electronics being thrown away.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Martin</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-387053</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:15:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-387053</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I hate Lead free solder with a vengance! I&#039;ve been involved with electroincs for around 30 years and when I had my lead levels tested they were found to be fine. Re. the methods lead can get into your system :-

Injestion.

If you&#039;re stupid enough to suck solder wire you deserve all you get, injestion due to skin contact is minimal and easily combated by common sense measures such as washing your hands.

Inhilation.

With normal soldering lead does not reach a high enough temperature to form a vapour. You may be breathing in flux fumes but you are breathing in very little (if any)lead.

Environmental.

Lead in electronics solder is a TINY persentage of the amount of lead that either enters the environment or is there already!

The cost of Lead free alternatives (both in physical money and enviromental costs due to increased energy useage) is worse IMO than sticking with lead based solder.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I hate Lead free solder with a vengance! I&#8217;ve been involved with electroincs for around 30 years and when I had my lead levels tested they were found to be fine. Re. the methods lead can get into your system :-</p>
<p>Injestion.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re stupid enough to suck solder wire you deserve all you get, injestion due to skin contact is minimal and easily combated by common sense measures such as washing your hands.</p>
<p>Inhilation.</p>
<p>With normal soldering lead does not reach a high enough temperature to form a vapour. You may be breathing in flux fumes but you are breathing in very little (if any)lead.</p>
<p>Environmental.</p>
<p>Lead in electronics solder is a TINY persentage of the amount of lead that either enters the environment or is there already!</p>
<p>The cost of Lead free alternatives (both in physical money and enviromental costs due to increased energy useage) is worse IMO than sticking with lead based solder.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: duh</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-379922</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[duh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Apr 2011 06:31:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-379922</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[To dispose of things that are contaminated with lead, I just toss the stuff into the river.  Same with used motor oil, mixed solvents, old paint, and various household biohazardous waste.

Never been a problem.  It just floats away...

I&#039;m joking, of course.  But only a little bit:

I once accidentally spilled about two gallons of used transmission fluid next to my house.  I &quot;cleaned it up&quot; (Exxon Valdez/Deep Water Horizon style) with some dish soap and water.

A year later, I planted a vegetable garden in that spot.  It produced some of the loveliest peppers I&#039;ve ever seen, and I still haven&#039;t grown a third testicle after having eaten almost all of them myself.  So much for ruining the land.

And that&#039;s a contextually irrelevant anecdote, at best, but seriously:  The contribution of lead into the environment by hobbyists is easily dwarfed by consumers throwing out their old/broken stuff, let alone the shadetree mechanic who bins the occasional old lead-acid battery.  Hell, I bet it&#039;s dwarfed by wheel weights just falling off randomly as the steel holding them on rots away.

So toss the old sponge.  Just forget about it.  You&#039;ll do better worrying about where the water you use to wash up after soldering goes...

And then get a brass tip cleaner -- Hakko makes a good one.  It&#039;s cheap, and it works great with no water required.  The bottom of the housing slowly fills with little balls of solder, which can be gathered up and recycled at your local scrap yard.  And when the cleaner wears out completely, just recycle the whole thing (including the housing) as brass.  (Machinable brass often has a bit of lead added to it anyway to prevent galling, so it&#039;s not exactly like you&#039;re poisoning the mix with your paltry solder content...)

Lead solder can probably be recycled similarly at any decent scrap yard, especially if you&#039;re not interested in getting paid for it.

Old electronics can be recycled almost everywhere, these days.  I live in a small town in Ohio, and while we don&#039;t have a particularly convenient method for getting rid of old boards, the local solid waste district does have an &quot;event&quot; once a year where such stuff can be dropped off for free.

Meanwhile, you can have my 63/37 (or my old roll of acid flux 60/40 plumbing solder) when you pry it from my cold, dead hands.

I&#039;ve got a 7-year-old Dell Inspiron laptop that has seen daily use since it was new, in all kinds of weather, which still works fine....except for the hard drive, which was the only RoHS-compliant part on the machine (and also the only part to have died).

Anecdotes, anecdotes, but lead solder FTW.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To dispose of things that are contaminated with lead, I just toss the stuff into the river.  Same with used motor oil, mixed solvents, old paint, and various household biohazardous waste.</p>
<p>Never been a problem.  It just floats away&#8230;</p>
<p>I&#8217;m joking, of course.  But only a little bit:</p>
<p>I once accidentally spilled about two gallons of used transmission fluid next to my house.  I &#8220;cleaned it up&#8221; (Exxon Valdez/Deep Water Horizon style) with some dish soap and water.</p>
<p>A year later, I planted a vegetable garden in that spot.  It produced some of the loveliest peppers I&#8217;ve ever seen, and I still haven&#8217;t grown a third testicle after having eaten almost all of them myself.  So much for ruining the land.</p>
<p>And that&#8217;s a contextually irrelevant anecdote, at best, but seriously:  The contribution of lead into the environment by hobbyists is easily dwarfed by consumers throwing out their old/broken stuff, let alone the shadetree mechanic who bins the occasional old lead-acid battery.  Hell, I bet it&#8217;s dwarfed by wheel weights just falling off randomly as the steel holding them on rots away.</p>
<p>So toss the old sponge.  Just forget about it.  You&#8217;ll do better worrying about where the water you use to wash up after soldering goes&#8230;</p>
<p>And then get a brass tip cleaner &#8212; Hakko makes a good one.  It&#8217;s cheap, and it works great with no water required.  The bottom of the housing slowly fills with little balls of solder, which can be gathered up and recycled at your local scrap yard.  And when the cleaner wears out completely, just recycle the whole thing (including the housing) as brass.  (Machinable brass often has a bit of lead added to it anyway to prevent galling, so it&#8217;s not exactly like you&#8217;re poisoning the mix with your paltry solder content&#8230;)</p>
<p>Lead solder can probably be recycled similarly at any decent scrap yard, especially if you&#8217;re not interested in getting paid for it.</p>
<p>Old electronics can be recycled almost everywhere, these days.  I live in a small town in Ohio, and while we don&#8217;t have a particularly convenient method for getting rid of old boards, the local solid waste district does have an &#8220;event&#8221; once a year where such stuff can be dropped off for free.</p>
<p>Meanwhile, you can have my 63/37 (or my old roll of acid flux 60/40 plumbing solder) when you pry it from my cold, dead hands.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve got a 7-year-old Dell Inspiron laptop that has seen daily use since it was new, in all kinds of weather, which still works fine&#8230;.except for the hard drive, which was the only RoHS-compliant part on the machine (and also the only part to have died).</p>
<p>Anecdotes, anecdotes, but lead solder FTW.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Herschel</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-293497</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Herschel]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 31 Dec 2010 04:32:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-293497</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[How does one properly dispose of lead solder? 

What about bits of circuitry with solder on them? 

What about the wet sponge one uses to wipe off the soldering iron tip?

What is the safe, responsible way for dealing with this lead waste?

Thanks]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How does one properly dispose of lead solder? </p>
<p>What about bits of circuitry with solder on them? </p>
<p>What about the wet sponge one uses to wipe off the soldering iron tip?</p>
<p>What is the safe, responsible way for dealing with this lead waste?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: John</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-290701</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[John]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Dec 2010 10:31:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-290701</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Following on from my previous comment, I&#039;ve heard that lead-free solder used to be used by the automotive industry long before the ROHS regulations, the reason being that lead-free copes better with viabration and temperature extremes that you get in cars. Can anyone confirm this?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Following on from my previous comment, I&#8217;ve heard that lead-free solder used to be used by the automotive industry long before the ROHS regulations, the reason being that lead-free copes better with viabration and temperature extremes that you get in cars. Can anyone confirm this?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: John</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-290699</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[John]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Dec 2010 10:29:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-290699</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I find tin/lead solder easier to work with, but lead-free is OK when you get used to it and have the right equipment. One nice thing about lead-free solder is that it&#039;s much better at coping with stress on a joint. I have some joints which hold on metal screening cans - the cans have soldering post that I solder to. These cans have EMC gaskets on the them which are springy and try to pull the posts out of the solder joints. With tin/lead solder, the joints appear OK to begin with, but they gradually move over time (a few months), and you can see rings where the solder is creeping away. With lead-free solder this doesn&#039;t happen at all, even after a year.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I find tin/lead solder easier to work with, but lead-free is OK when you get used to it and have the right equipment. One nice thing about lead-free solder is that it&#8217;s much better at coping with stress on a joint. I have some joints which hold on metal screening cans &#8211; the cans have soldering post that I solder to. These cans have EMC gaskets on the them which are springy and try to pull the posts out of the solder joints. With tin/lead solder, the joints appear OK to begin with, but they gradually move over time (a few months), and you can see rings where the solder is creeping away. With lead-free solder this doesn&#8217;t happen at all, even after a year.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Johnny2Bad</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-199858</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Johnny2Bad]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-199858</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&quot; ... There is a lot of work being done on the radioactivity of 54Fe which is 5.8% isotopic abundance. The latest measurements say that its half-life is &gt;1e22 years, which means that we’ll never be rid of it. ...&quot;

This post demonstrates a complete misunderstanding of radioactive elements and health. The half-life represents how long in time it takes to reduce the radioactive element by 1/2. As it decays, it changes from one compound to another. For example, uranium decays into lead.

There are three forms of radiation ... two are harmless to humans unless the element is embedded in your body (ie eating it). The third (gamma) is dangerous as it penetrates the body, possibly causing a call mutation in the path (which goes right through you and continues on).

If an object has a half-life of a day, that means it&#039;s emitting a lot of gamma radiation ... 1/2 of all it&#039;s capable of, in a day.

If an object has a half life of 10,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 years (1e22) then it will take that many years to emit 1/2 of it&#039;s radioactive potential.

In other words, it&#039;s essentially NOT radioactive; this is millions of times less radioactivity than common items that are known safe (being outside in the sun, LCD displays, smoke detectors, sleeping next to an any mammal which emits radiation stored in bone tissue, etc).

Get a grip, son. One single ray of beta radiation every ten years is not going to kill anything.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8221; &#8230; There is a lot of work being done on the radioactivity of 54Fe which is 5.8% isotopic abundance. The latest measurements say that its half-life is &gt;1e22 years, which means that we’ll never be rid of it. &#8230;&#8221;</p>
<p>This post demonstrates a complete misunderstanding of radioactive elements and health. The half-life represents how long in time it takes to reduce the radioactive element by 1/2. As it decays, it changes from one compound to another. For example, uranium decays into lead.</p>
<p>There are three forms of radiation &#8230; two are harmless to humans unless the element is embedded in your body (ie eating it). The third (gamma) is dangerous as it penetrates the body, possibly causing a call mutation in the path (which goes right through you and continues on).</p>
<p>If an object has a half-life of a day, that means it&#8217;s emitting a lot of gamma radiation &#8230; 1/2 of all it&#8217;s capable of, in a day.</p>
<p>If an object has a half life of 10,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 years (1e22) then it will take that many years to emit 1/2 of it&#8217;s radioactive potential.</p>
<p>In other words, it&#8217;s essentially NOT radioactive; this is millions of times less radioactivity than common items that are known safe (being outside in the sun, LCD displays, smoke detectors, sleeping next to an any mammal which emits radiation stored in bone tissue, etc).</p>
<p>Get a grip, son. One single ray of beta radiation every ten years is not going to kill anything.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: NP</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/comment-page-1/#comment-161183</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[NP]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:46:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/05/22/how-to-go-green-with-lead-free-solder/#comment-161183</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My first soldering experience was using lead free (2 years ago) and I&#039;ve had no problems since. I believe a transition period with people complaining is natural, but in a few years the discussion will be gone. 

My company sells devices that are exposed to both shock and moisture, and we&#039;ve had no quality issues yet.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My first soldering experience was using lead free (2 years ago) and I&#8217;ve had no problems since. I believe a transition period with people complaining is natural, but in a few years the discussion will be gone. </p>
<p>My company sells devices that are exposed to both shock and moisture, and we&#8217;ve had no quality issues yet.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

