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	<title>Comments on: 3 wire LCD display</title>
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	<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/</link>
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		<title>By: phil pemberton</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/comment-page-1/#comment-36940</link>
		<dc:creator>phil pemberton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Jun 2008 23:31:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/#comment-36940</guid>
		<description>actually, a few points about the article...&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;1) why bother wiring R/W to the shiftreg if you can&#039;t actually read back through it? seems like a silly plan. keeping track of what&#039;s on a 16x2 LCD in a micro isn&#039;t exactly hard anyway, but i can&#039;t think of a situation where i&#039;ve ever needed to read back from a HD44780 panel. now a graphics LCD, that&#039;s a different story.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;2) hef4094 might not be the best choice.. ime the 74HC164 and similar are somewhat cheaper, and use less power. nice idea though.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;3) ugh, you have to send the control byte three times? if you&#039;re going to do 3-wire control, use an unlatched S/R and wire the LCD&#039;s E line straight to the circuit. saves clock cycles - load the control byte then toggle E :)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;i&#039;m not intending to rubbish the idea... just commenting on how you could do it better.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;i really should write up that tutorial on reverse engineering pinouts for controllerless graphics lcds with nothing more than a multimeter... and maybe document some of my PIC tricks too. argh, need more spare time!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>actually, a few points about the article&#8230;</p>
<p>1) why bother wiring R/W to the shiftreg if you can&#8217;t actually read back through it? seems like a silly plan. keeping track of what&#8217;s on a 16&#215;2 LCD in a micro isn&#8217;t exactly hard anyway, but i can&#8217;t think of a situation where i&#8217;ve ever needed to read back from a HD44780 panel. now a graphics LCD, that&#8217;s a different story.</p>
<p>2) hef4094 might not be the best choice.. ime the 74HC164 and similar are somewhat cheaper, and use less power. nice idea though.</p>
<p>3) ugh, you have to send the control byte three times? if you&#8217;re going to do 3-wire control, use an unlatched S/R and wire the LCD&#8217;s E line straight to the circuit. saves clock cycles &#8211; load the control byte then toggle E :)</p>
<p>i&#8217;m not intending to rubbish the idea&#8230; just commenting on how you could do it better.</p>
<p>i really should write up that tutorial on reverse engineering pinouts for controllerless graphics lcds with nothing more than a multimeter&#8230; and maybe document some of my PIC tricks too. argh, need more spare time!</p>
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		<title>By: phil pemberton</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/comment-page-1/#comment-36939</link>
		<dc:creator>phil pemberton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Jun 2008 23:22:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/#comment-36939</guid>
		<description>hmm, actually i&#039;ve done it with two wires :)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;74HC164, a diode and a resistor. wire the LCD&#039;s D4-D7 to HC164 Q4-Q7, RS to Q3 and R/!W to ground. wire a diode between HC164 Q0 and the LCD&#039;s E line, cathode to Q7. now finish off by adding a 10k resistor between DATA_IN and the LCD&#039;s E line.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;the idea isn&#039;t mine, Myke Predko came up with it - the details are somewhere on rentron.com. i took one look at his code and rewrote it to suit my style :)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;PIC code here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/lcd/unilcd.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/lcd/unilcd.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;works for 4-bit and 2-wire serial HD44780 LCDs&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hmm, actually i&#8217;ve done it with two wires :)</p>
<p>74HC164, a diode and a resistor. wire the LCD&#8217;s D4-D7 to HC164 Q4-Q7, RS to Q3 and R/!W to ground. wire a diode between HC164 Q0 and the LCD&#8217;s E line, cathode to Q7. now finish off by adding a 10k resistor between DATA_IN and the LCD&#8217;s E line.</p>
<p>the idea isn&#8217;t mine, Myke Predko came up with it &#8211; the details are somewhere on rentron.com. i took one look at his code and rewrote it to suit my style :)</p>
<p>PIC code here: <a href="http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/lcd/unilcd.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/lcd/unilcd.htm</a></p>
<p>works for 4-bit and 2-wire serial HD44780 LCDs</p>
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		<title>By: steve</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/comment-page-1/#comment-36938</link>
		<dc:creator>steve</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 06:50:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/#comment-36938</guid>
		<description>This has been done time and time again, i figured it would have been here long ago. A thing to consider about this approach is the additional cost in terms of board space. Most of the time it is more effective to simply move to a greater pin mcu. The cost generally works out to be the same and you end up saving some space.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This has been done time and time again, i figured it would have been here long ago. A thing to consider about this approach is the additional cost in terms of board space. Most of the time it is more effective to simply move to a greater pin mcu. The cost generally works out to be the same and you end up saving some space.</p>
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		<title>By: tsurugi</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/comment-page-1/#comment-36937</link>
		<dc:creator>tsurugi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 01:22:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/#comment-36937</guid>
		<description>better: &lt;a href=&quot;http://ouwehand.net/~peter/lcd/lcd_examp.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ouwehand.net/~peter/lcd/lcd_examp.shtml&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;Quote &quot;Replace the HEF4094D with a plain 8-bit shift register like the 74HC164 (it will be slightly cheaper). It has no STR input, so the PIC&#039;s RB3 just connects to the LCD module&#039;s EN signal.&quot; This method was used in the AVR DDS Signal Generator project as well.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>better: <a href="http://ouwehand.net/~peter/lcd/lcd_examp.shtml" rel="nofollow">http://ouwehand.net/~peter/lcd/lcd_examp.shtml</a> <br />Quote &#8220;Replace the HEF4094D with a plain 8-bit shift register like the 74HC164 (it will be slightly cheaper). It has no STR input, so the PIC&#8217;s RB3 just connects to the LCD module&#8217;s EN signal.&#8221; This method was used in the AVR DDS Signal Generator project as well.</p>
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		<title>By: Pokey</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/comment-page-1/#comment-36936</link>
		<dc:creator>Pokey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 00:57:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.iheartcashews.com:8181/2008/06/13/3-wire-lcd-display/#comment-36936</guid>
		<description>Actually this is better than using a serial LCD backpack since it has a synchronous clock.  You can bit bang this as slowly and irregularly as you&#039;d like, and don&#039;t need to waste a UART.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Actually this is better than using a serial LCD backpack since it has a synchronous clock.  You can bit bang this as slowly and irregularly as you&#8217;d like, and don&#8217;t need to waste a UART.</p>
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