Comments on: How-To: Etch a single sided PCB

By: Steve Greenfield

Steve Greenfield — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 13:23:03 +0000

Yes, you could use a regular photo.

You cannot use an inkjet printer for this process. It relies on the fact that laser printer or photocopier toner is a plastic that is remelted to stick it to the copper surface, where it prevents the acid from removing copper where ever it is.

I set up a Yahoogroup several years ago where you can share questions and information about etching copper, for PCBs or art use. Several artists who acid etch metals have joined.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

By: Jeff Klus

Jeff Klus — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:41:55 +0000

I am not interested in ciquit board etching. Is there any reason why a regular photo instead of a photo of a cirquit board would’nt work, using this process?

Also, I do not have a laser printer. Using your other option, what is the difference between an inkjet copy, versus a photo copy?

Thanks, Jeff

By: shankar

shankar — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 22:30:56 +0000

i did pcb training workshop. now i need to submit report on it. but i dont know how to begin with this. is there any website from where i can download training report on pcb. please help me…

By: ansil

ansil — Thu, 30 Jun 2011 05:53:45 +0000

why not predrill? i do this on almost all my pcbs easier to drill as a hole then etch

By: JW

JW — Sat, 08 Jan 2011 01:47:27 +0000

Ummmmmmmm… I disagree with the comment about not being able to safely store Muriatic acid… I’ve got 4 gallons safely stored right now. Two of the four gallons have been in storage for over 4 years… What, about Muriatic acid, do you think is unsafe for storage in a “household environment”? (bearing in mind that I have two very curious cats, and perhaps I just have a basement chemistry cabinet that locks better than yours does :-))

By: sean o'connor

sean o'connor — Thu, 23 Dec 2010 01:35:55 +0000

There is no need to use hydrochloric acid.
For slow etching use a solution of mono-sodium glutamate (ie food seasoning from the supermarket) and air bubbled through using a fish tank pump.
For fast etching use add hydrogen peroxide solution to the monosodium glutamate solution (ie colour safe clothing bleach, don’t use toilet bleach which is sodium hypochloride).

By: eyoel

eyoel — Fri, 15 Oct 2010 16:41:00 +0000

It is so good and understandable i really like it.

By: EUnit

EUnit — Sun, 19 Sep 2010 06:07:20 +0000

I have ONE Question. I’ve designed my layout and whatnot. Its all to scale but here is my beef…
To save paper I decided to use B6 sized paper (usually cut it to size by hand) Poster paper works excellent(back side). The paper is aligned in the middle of the paper tray with the stops and so on. BUT whenever I print it. The pdf/ps document viewer prints the image way off to one side and off the paper instead of aligning it in the center. How Do I fix this?

By: Ryan

Ryan — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 21:13:35 +0000

I am trying new papers. If there is a Kelly Paper in your area you can try the one I used last night.
Brand: Wausau
Model: 97101
Label says it is “Exact coated”

This is a nice thin, but better than magazine stock paper with a similar feeling. It is pretty easy to scratch toner off the paper too. I got this for $15 / 500 sheets. Another choice is:
Wausau, 97225
it is “Gloss Coated” and says it is for laser printers. It is a bit heavier than the other paper above and has similar scratching off toner characteristics. It scratches better on my HP 5 laser here at work.
Happy PCB-making!

By: DAVE POZZA

DAVE POZZA — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:30:54 +0000

HI SATZ THE PAINT I USED WAS CREATEX AUTO AIR . THE COLOR THAT WORKED, BEST WAS THE BLACK .YOU CAN FIND IT ON LINE JUST SEARCH THE CREATEX NAME . IT WORKED VERY WELL FOR ME , DAVE

By: SATZ

SATZ — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:46:18 +0000

HI SIR,
Actually m a final year engg student for my project i made own pcb like ur article, my guide teached me well…
My doudt is aft done pcb boards we ve to paint t on the track. which paint v can use.. can u tell me clearly pls?

By: xef Ned

xef Ned — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 01:11:18 +0000

Please do not use the muriatic-acid based etchant presented in this tutorial. It cannot be safely stored in a household environment.

Use an safe solution: Ferric chloride or Ammonium Persulfate. Less than $10 at Frys, and other electronics stores.

By: Steve Greenfield

Steve Greenfield — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:21:54 +0000

I made some PCBs several years ago using a vinyl sign cutter. I just used the vinyl itself as etch resist.

If this link doesn’t work, click on my name.

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Sign_Cutter_to_make_PCBs/

By: DAVE

DAVE — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:09:15 +0000

HI I THINK I HAVE COME UP WITH A NEW WAY TO ETCH PC BOARDS. AFTER MY FIRST TIME TRYING TO MAKE THEM WITH LITTLE SUCCESS. SO I TRYED AFEW THINGS UNTIL I TRYED THIS .
(1) I USED A SIGN MAKING PROGRAM TO MAKE A PC LAYOUT. THEN CUT IT TO VINYL . WEEDED IT AND PUT THE LAYOUT OVER THE COPPER .NOTE: VINYL CUTTERS CAN CUT VERY FINE LINES .
(2) I THEN PAINTED THE LINES USING A SMALL BRUSH.THE PAINT I USED WAS A SIGN AND AUTO AIR BRUSH PAINT .COMES IN 2 OZ. BOTTLES, THE BRAND NAME WAS CREATEX . I THINK A SPRAY PAINT SUCH AS CRYLON WOULD ALSO WORK, ALTHOUGH I HAVE NOT TRYED IT .I LET THE PAINT DRY FOR A FEW MINUITES. THEN REMOVED THE VINYL .
(3) PUT IT IN ETCHING FLUID AND WOW !! TO SAY THE LEAST IT LOOK GREAT . I ALSO PUT THE ETCHING CONTAINER ON THE DRYER FOR HEAT AND AGATION . WORKED GREAT FOR ME .

By: marry

marry — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 17:08:04 +0000

Hey! Nice job here! I’ll be dropping by from time to time :)