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	<title>Comments on: Tools: Aoyue 968 3-in-1 soldering and rework station</title>
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	<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/</link>
	<description>Fresh hacks every day</description>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Voxmagna</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-548123</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Voxmagna]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Dec 2011 14:05:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-548123</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Its manufacturers spec. says it is 220V, my rating plate (bought in EU) says it is 210V to 240V and we are on 230V. 

From that spec and its weight, I don&#039;t think their power supply is a wide range switch mode, which I might change sometime.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Its manufacturers spec. says it is 220V, my rating plate (bought in EU) says it is 210V to 240V and we are on 230V. </p>
<p>From that spec and its weight, I don&#8217;t think their power supply is a wide range switch mode, which I might change sometime.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Voxmagna</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-548116</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Voxmagna]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Dec 2011 13:57:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-548116</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Something else I&#039;ve done with mine: 

Mine has the fume sucker which I&#039;m not that bothered about for occasional hobby work. But what I do appreciate is a decent vacuum sucker. I bought the B1002A suction iron (nicely made) and replaced the iron connectors on my station front panel and on the irons I use for 8 way versions. The suction iron needs the on/ off switch wired to the vac pump.

http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-b1002a-desoldering-gun-and-cable-clone-2.html 

Even though this iron is over 20 watts, it works fine and the temperature control is ok. At the moment I just unplug the soldering iron from its single socket to use the suction iron, but I may add a second socket on the front panel with a changeover power relay. I modified one of the vacuum bits to take a very fine 0.5mm bore brass tube. That pushes the vac. pump near to its limit, but it works fine for sucking around smd&#039;s. I attached a 40mm dia. &#039;Holster&#039; made from perforated stainless sheet to the right side of the 968.

If I wanted another workstation, I would definitely look at something with two separate iron sockets and temperature controllers, to use the second for an &#039;always on&#039; desoldering iron. But for the money, what I now have comes pretty close and the warm up time is only about 45 seconds after switching over irons.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Something else I&#8217;ve done with mine: </p>
<p>Mine has the fume sucker which I&#8217;m not that bothered about for occasional hobby work. But what I do appreciate is a decent vacuum sucker. I bought the B1002A suction iron (nicely made) and replaced the iron connectors on my station front panel and on the irons I use for 8 way versions. The suction iron needs the on/ off switch wired to the vac pump.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-b1002a-desoldering-gun-and-cable-clone-2.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-b1002a-desoldering-gun-and-cable-clone-2.html</a> </p>
<p>Even though this iron is over 20 watts, it works fine and the temperature control is ok. At the moment I just unplug the soldering iron from its single socket to use the suction iron, but I may add a second socket on the front panel with a changeover power relay. I modified one of the vacuum bits to take a very fine 0.5mm bore brass tube. That pushes the vac. pump near to its limit, but it works fine for sucking around smd&#8217;s. I attached a 40mm dia. &#8216;Holster&#8217; made from perforated stainless sheet to the right side of the 968.</p>
<p>If I wanted another workstation, I would definitely look at something with two separate iron sockets and temperature controllers, to use the second for an &#8216;always on&#8217; desoldering iron. But for the money, what I now have comes pretty close and the warm up time is only about 45 seconds after switching over irons.</p>
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		<title>By: Voxmagna</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-548105</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Voxmagna]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Dec 2011 13:39:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-548105</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;ve had mine nearly 3 years now. All I can suggest for the overheating problem is the sensor may be a K-type thermocouple just like those in the irons and I&#039;ve already had a couple apart. 

If you go inside the case looking for the wires going down the black hose, I bet they are using a similar configuration to the irons. There will be at least 5 wires. i wire will (should!) be a ground. 2 wires will be the heater resistance. And two wires will have a very low resistance like &lt; 1 ohm if they are using a thermocouple sensor. If that pair of wires is open circuit you have your answer. If this is the case, then it&#039;s rather sad the element heater circuit defaults to full on if the sensor wires get broken. If you find this kind of very low rsistance sensor, you can buy them with wires for thermo couple type electronic thermometers. But it would be a good idea to use said thermometer to re-check the calibration.

Good Luck]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve had mine nearly 3 years now. All I can suggest for the overheating problem is the sensor may be a K-type thermocouple just like those in the irons and I&#8217;ve already had a couple apart. </p>
<p>If you go inside the case looking for the wires going down the black hose, I bet they are using a similar configuration to the irons. There will be at least 5 wires. i wire will (should!) be a ground. 2 wires will be the heater resistance. And two wires will have a very low resistance like &lt; 1 ohm if they are using a thermocouple sensor. If that pair of wires is open circuit you have your answer. If this is the case, then it&#039;s rather sad the element heater circuit defaults to full on if the sensor wires get broken. If you find this kind of very low rsistance sensor, you can buy them with wires for thermo couple type electronic thermometers. But it would be a good idea to use said thermometer to re-check the calibration.</p>
<p>Good Luck</p>
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		<title>By: friso seyfert</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-547936</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[friso seyfert]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Dec 2011 07:27:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-547936</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[here is a video of the overheating of the hot air gun element: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/OKaosSowexU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;aoyue 968 10094 hot air gun repleacement problems&lt;/a&gt;]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>here is a video of the overheating of the hot air gun element: <a href="http://youtu.be/OKaosSowexU" rel="nofollow">aoyue 968 10094 hot air gun repleacement problems</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: friso seyfert</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-547889</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[friso seyfert]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Dec 2011 06:25:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-547889</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[i replaced the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-10094-replacement-hot-air-gun-heating-element.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heating element&lt;/a&gt;, but now i think mine is overheating too... i&#039;d like to know if anybody got a solution for this. i Believe a thermocouple that is supposed to connect to the metal housing around the heating element is not conncecting to the metal housing and thus not coupling the heat back.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i replaced the <a href="http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-10094-replacement-hot-air-gun-heating-element.html" rel="nofollow">heating element</a>, but now i think mine is overheating too&#8230; i&#8217;d like to know if anybody got a solution for this. i Believe a thermocouple that is supposed to connect to the metal housing around the heating element is not conncecting to the metal housing and thus not coupling the heat back.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Dave</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-526645</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Dave]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Dec 2011 20:55:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-526645</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi does the 968A work on 220v ?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi does the 968A work on 220v ?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Robert Ablacon</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-474817</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Ablacon]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2011 21:52:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-474817</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The station is more than 4 years old and used to work perfectly, the screw was removed from day one, as the manual instructs. The problem is the heating element of the hot air, even if I install a new one, it burns.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The station is more than 4 years old and used to work perfectly, the screw was removed from day one, as the manual instructs. The problem is the heating element of the hot air, even if I install a new one, it burns.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: loki</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-474802</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[loki]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2011 21:27:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-474802</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[@Robert Ablacon
&quot;Mine is overheating and burning the heating element.&quot;

What element is overheating. If its the hotair gun, did you remove the pump lock screw located on the bottom of the unit (it should be labled with a sticker, or painted red)?

 If not this screw needs to be removed befor use. It is there to protect the pump during shipping.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Robert Ablacon<br />
&#8220;Mine is overheating and burning the heating element.&#8221;</p>
<p>What element is overheating. If its the hotair gun, did you remove the pump lock screw located on the bottom of the unit (it should be labled with a sticker, or painted red)?</p>
<p> If not this screw needs to be removed befor use. It is there to protect the pump during shipping.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Robert Ablacon</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-356614</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Ablacon]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Mar 2011 23:28:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-356614</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have this equipment schematics? Mine is overheating and burning the heating element.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Does anyone have this equipment schematics? Mine is overheating and burning the heating element.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Voxmagna</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-340487</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Voxmagna]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 00:09:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-340487</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have one of these which I have now modified. I was miffed there was decent suction and a fancy display which they only used for fume extraction. I&#039;m a hobbyist and spend little time soldering. I&#039;m over 60 so not worried about solder resin fumes I&#039;ve been around all my working life - and I don&#039;t smoke.

First I bought the B1002A desolder gun. 24 volts same as the iron , but a few more watts compared to the iron (but the 968 has a decent size transformer). Same K type thermocouple sensor.
The desolder gun comes with an 8 pole connector, irons are 5 pole. Both stock range at Maplin. Transformer probably won&#039;t run the iron and desolder gun together so I decided to replace their front panel connector with a Maplin 8 pole and change plug on the iron. 2 extra poles on the connector are needed for the vac. pump on/off switch.

Pin connections for oem 5 way are: Pin 1 Blue and PIn 2 Green = element. Pin 3 Yell= case ground, Pin 4 Red and Pin 5 black are the &#039;K&#039; thermocouple.

Pin connections for the desolder gun 8 pole are Pin 1  red and pin 2 Grey+yell = element. Pin 3 blue and pin 5 black = normally open vac switch. Pin 4 brown= case ground. Pin 6 green and pin 7 white = &#039;K&#039; thermocouple. Wire colors may vary, but this is the info to transpose their 5 pole to 8 pole connectors.

Remove the pot nut and desolder the front panel connector to pull the board away. Solder short 25mm colored wires to each used pin of the new 8 pole connector. Match the element, thermocouple and ground to their pcb. The board copper is very poor so clean and tin to the track if the hole pads break. Trace where the 2 brown wires connected to the smoke absorber switch solder to the display board and tack on wires connected to pins 3 and 5 (vac trigger switch). Note you will lose the led &#039;on&#039; function, but you can hear the pump! Replace the front panel board with a couple of M10 washers to increase spacing between the board and 8 pole connector wires.

I cut some thin stainless sheet to make a rest for the desolder gun on the right of the case. I cut 20mm of their fume extractor hose, to make an &#039;adapter&#039; for the thinner B1002A hose so it fits the front vac connector.

In use you have to choose to plug in the iron or desolder gun. No sweat as these both are very fast warm up. Changeover switches or relays could get problematic as the thermocouple resistances are about one ohm. The airflow through the hot air gun drops back some (but still useable) if the desolder gun hose is left connected. Just pull off the hose if you want more air through the heat gun.

This is what they should have produced for the original design - Hot air, soldering iron and desolder gun in one work station. But I&#039;m happy I&#039;ve now got even better value for money!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have one of these which I have now modified. I was miffed there was decent suction and a fancy display which they only used for fume extraction. I&#8217;m a hobbyist and spend little time soldering. I&#8217;m over 60 so not worried about solder resin fumes I&#8217;ve been around all my working life &#8211; and I don&#8217;t smoke.</p>
<p>First I bought the B1002A desolder gun. 24 volts same as the iron , but a few more watts compared to the iron (but the 968 has a decent size transformer). Same K type thermocouple sensor.<br />
The desolder gun comes with an 8 pole connector, irons are 5 pole. Both stock range at Maplin. Transformer probably won&#8217;t run the iron and desolder gun together so I decided to replace their front panel connector with a Maplin 8 pole and change plug on the iron. 2 extra poles on the connector are needed for the vac. pump on/off switch.</p>
<p>Pin connections for oem 5 way are: Pin 1 Blue and PIn 2 Green = element. Pin 3 Yell= case ground, Pin 4 Red and Pin 5 black are the &#8216;K&#8217; thermocouple.</p>
<p>Pin connections for the desolder gun 8 pole are Pin 1  red and pin 2 Grey+yell = element. Pin 3 blue and pin 5 black = normally open vac switch. Pin 4 brown= case ground. Pin 6 green and pin 7 white = &#8216;K&#8217; thermocouple. Wire colors may vary, but this is the info to transpose their 5 pole to 8 pole connectors.</p>
<p>Remove the pot nut and desolder the front panel connector to pull the board away. Solder short 25mm colored wires to each used pin of the new 8 pole connector. Match the element, thermocouple and ground to their pcb. The board copper is very poor so clean and tin to the track if the hole pads break. Trace where the 2 brown wires connected to the smoke absorber switch solder to the display board and tack on wires connected to pins 3 and 5 (vac trigger switch). Note you will lose the led &#8216;on&#8217; function, but you can hear the pump! Replace the front panel board with a couple of M10 washers to increase spacing between the board and 8 pole connector wires.</p>
<p>I cut some thin stainless sheet to make a rest for the desolder gun on the right of the case. I cut 20mm of their fume extractor hose, to make an &#8216;adapter&#8217; for the thinner B1002A hose so it fits the front vac connector.</p>
<p>In use you have to choose to plug in the iron or desolder gun. No sweat as these both are very fast warm up. Changeover switches or relays could get problematic as the thermocouple resistances are about one ohm. The airflow through the hot air gun drops back some (but still useable) if the desolder gun hose is left connected. Just pull off the hose if you want more air through the heat gun.</p>
<p>This is what they should have produced for the original design &#8211; Hot air, soldering iron and desolder gun in one work station. But I&#8217;m happy I&#8217;ve now got even better value for money!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: soldering iron</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-308822</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[soldering iron]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jan 2011 03:48:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-308822</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have Aoyue 2702 soldering station. It works great.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have Aoyue 2702 soldering station. It works great.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Morganism</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-177972</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Morganism]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:51:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-177972</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Got the 2702+, on that SRA introductory sale.

Excellent fit and finish, worth the extra 50 bucks.
Came with vac pen, lots of air horns, and the desolder handle. Still can&#039;t use the solder/desolder at the same time, but it has lots of power, and the element holder has much better fit than the above model. Think it takes Hakko tips too, but havn&#039;t cooked any yet, and have had for two years now. Order the smallest chisel point you can too.

Just a happy user.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Got the 2702+, on that SRA introductory sale.</p>
<p>Excellent fit and finish, worth the extra 50 bucks.<br />
Came with vac pen, lots of air horns, and the desolder handle. Still can&#8217;t use the solder/desolder at the same time, but it has lots of power, and the element holder has much better fit than the above model. Think it takes Hakko tips too, but havn&#8217;t cooked any yet, and have had for two years now. Order the smallest chisel point you can too.</p>
<p>Just a happy user.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Nick</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-127452</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Nick]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Mar 2010 02:50:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-127452</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have this exact unit. It is very good with desoldering thru hole components and salvaging pretty much everything. The only thing i have not figured out yet is the correct settings for pulling plastic components without melting them. 

Here are the settings I use for desoldering:
390C temp
~4 airflow

I have no had the chance to test the soldering iron yet but the fume extractor is nice and silent. This review made me purchase my unit from SRA soldering in mass. It was an amazing purchase and was about $175 shipped. I also an Aoyue 328 working platform made for clamping circuit boards.

Also you MUST remove the red screw on the bottom or it will be very noisy and vibrate a lot. the screw is only there to secure the pump during shipping because it normally only has rubber mounts.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have this exact unit. It is very good with desoldering thru hole components and salvaging pretty much everything. The only thing i have not figured out yet is the correct settings for pulling plastic components without melting them. </p>
<p>Here are the settings I use for desoldering:<br />
390C temp<br />
~4 airflow</p>
<p>I have no had the chance to test the soldering iron yet but the fume extractor is nice and silent. This review made me purchase my unit from SRA soldering in mass. It was an amazing purchase and was about $175 shipped. I also an Aoyue 328 working platform made for clamping circuit boards.</p>
<p>Also you MUST remove the red screw on the bottom or it will be very noisy and vibrate a lot. the screw is only there to secure the pump during shipping because it normally only has rubber mounts.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: ZACK</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-103397</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[ZACK]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 03:31:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-103397</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have this exact unit.  The first day I plug it in the hot air worked good.  I was working on my computer and smelled something burning--the heating element in the hot air gun heated up orange hot.  THE UNIT WAS PLUGGED IN BUT SWITCHED OFF when this happened!  Sent it back and had it fixed.  

Soldering iron is a poor performer.  You can have the temp knob cranked all the way and still have trouble soldering a via on a large trace.  Anything less than half way on the knob and its pretty useless.

Bottom Line:  Hot air gun works good.  It gets so hot it will de-solder anything you want.  But i still fear it&#039;ll burn my house down.  Soldering iron is useless to me--i use my plug-in 35W Weller iron.  


I either have a lemon unit or the Aoyue is just plain unreliable.  I would not buy this unit again.  Spend the extra money and find a higher end one like Pace or Weller.

Zack]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have this exact unit.  The first day I plug it in the hot air worked good.  I was working on my computer and smelled something burning&#8211;the heating element in the hot air gun heated up orange hot.  THE UNIT WAS PLUGGED IN BUT SWITCHED OFF when this happened!  Sent it back and had it fixed.  </p>
<p>Soldering iron is a poor performer.  You can have the temp knob cranked all the way and still have trouble soldering a via on a large trace.  Anything less than half way on the knob and its pretty useless.</p>
<p>Bottom Line:  Hot air gun works good.  It gets so hot it will de-solder anything you want.  But i still fear it&#8217;ll burn my house down.  Soldering iron is useless to me&#8211;i use my plug-in 35W Weller iron.  </p>
<p>I either have a lemon unit or the Aoyue is just plain unreliable.  I would not buy this unit again.  Spend the extra money and find a higher end one like Pace or Weller.</p>
<p>Zack</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/comment-page-1/#comment-103352</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[David]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 23:06:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hackaday.com/?p=8585#comment-103352</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Im a student at ITT tech geting started i looking to get a good Soilding station for hobbes and school. i looking in to this Aoyue 968. for all what it can do but befor i pay. i would like to know if its what i need.. anyone input.?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Im a student at ITT tech geting started i looking to get a good Soilding station for hobbes and school. i looking in to this Aoyue 968. for all what it can do but befor i pay. i would like to know if its what i need.. anyone input.?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
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