One of the perks of writing for Hackaday is that we often find hacks that we’ve been meaning to do ourselves. Here’s one that will let us fix our borked ASUS computer monitor buttons. [Silviu] has the same monitor we do, an ASUS VW202, and had the same problem of stuck buttons. We already cracked ours open and realized that the buttons are not easily replaced (you’ve got to source the right one). We just unstuck the offender and vowed not to press that button again, but [Silviu] actually figured out how to disassemble and repair the PCB mount switches.

As with most consumer electronics these days the worst part of the process is getting the monitor’s case apart. The plastic bezel has little spring tabs all around it that must be gently pried apart. Once the PCB which hosts the buttons was removed, he took the metal housing off of the broken switch. Inside he found that a bit of metal particulate (leftovers from manufacturing?) were causing the problem. A quick cleaning with a cotton swab removed the debris and got the tactile switch working again.

[Phil] uses both his computer’s speakers and a set of headphones while working at his desk, but he was growing tired of constantly having to remove the headset from his sound card in order to insert the speaker plug. He’s been meaning to rig something up to make it easier to switch outputs, but never seemed to get around to it until he recently saw this LAN-enabled audio switcher we featured.

His USB-controlled switch features a single audio input and two audio outputs, which he mounted on a nicely done homemade double-sided PCB. The switch can be toggled using any terminal program, sending commands to the on-board ATtiny13A via an FT232R USB to serial UART chip.

The switch’s operation is really quite simple, merely requiring [Phil] to type in the desired audio channel into the terminal. The ATiny and a small relay do the rest, directing the audio to the proper output.

There’s a soft spot in our hearts for pointless projects, as long as they’re well executed. [Bertho] really hit the mark with his take on the most useless machine. We’ve seen several renditions of this concept, most of them hinging on a box that will turn a mechanical switch off whenever you turn it on. But this take uses a push button to activate a switch flipping mechanism on another part of the machine.

You can see the drive gears in the image above. The final gear has a small bar which flips a switch to one side or the other. The circuit does this without the need of a microcontroller. A 7400 series NAND gate chip, some passive components, and two mechanical relays are all it takes. At each push of the button, the logic chip trips one of the relays to trigger the appropriate motor direction based on the current state of that switch. You can press the button during movement, but all that will do is delay the inevitable flip of the switch.

[Mariano] owns a late 90’s Jeep Wrangler, and had no idea just how easy it was to steal. Unfortunately for him, the guy who made off with his Jeep was well aware of the car’s vulnerabilities. The problem lies in the ignition – it can be broken out with a screwdriver, after which, the car can be started with a single finger. How’s that for security?

[Mariano] decided that he would take matters into his own hands and add a remote-controlled switch to his car in order to encourage the next would-be thief to move on to an easier target. He describes his creation as a “remote kill” switch, though it’s more of a “remote enable” switch, enabling the engine when he wants to start the car rather than killing it on command.

The switch system is made up of two pieces – a server inside the car’s engine bay, and a remote key fob. The server and the fob speak to one another using IPv6 over 802.15.4 (the same standard used by ZigBee modules). Once the server receives a GET request from the key fob, it authenticates the user with a 128-bit AES challenge/response session, allowing the car to be started.

It is not the simplest way of adding a remote-kill switch to a car, but we like it. Unless the next potential car thief digs under the hood for a while, we’re pretty sure [Mariano’s] car will be safe for quite some time.

[Chris] over at the New Hobbyist sent in his latest creation, a wireless light switch hidden within a statue bust. While shopping around for another project, he came across a wireless relay that can can be used to switch a standard 120v AC load. He bought the part without a project in mind, but inspiration quickly struck. Some of you young’uns might not remember the original Batman television series, but [Chris] certainly does. To access the Bat Cave, Bruce Wayne had to flip a secret switch located inside a bust of William Shakespeare that adorned his desk. While he doesn’t have a secret door to activate, [Chris] couldn’t think of any better way to switch on the lights in his man cave. He found a similar-looking bust of Beethoven and got to chopping his head off.

He fabricated a small mount for a push button, hiding the battery powered remote underneath, and an old 12v wall wart was repurposed to drive the wireless receiver. While not overly complicated, this is definitely a fun project and could make for a neat light switch in a kid’s room. Interested in some more Batman inspired hacks? Be sure to check out this Bat Cave-style entrance switch from a few years back.

Keep reading to see a video of his hidden light switch in action.

This collection of touch sensor information should be of interest to anyone who liked the simple touch sensor post from Thursday. That was a resistive touch sensor and is covered in detail along with AC hum sensors that trigger based on induced current from power lines around you, and capacitive touch switches like we’ve seen in past hacks. Each different concept is discussed and clearly illustrated like the slide above. [Giorgos Lazaridis] has also put together individual posts that build and demonstrate the circuits. We’ve embedded his resistive sensor demo video after the break and linked to all three example circuits.

Resistive touch sensor video:

• Resistive touch sensor circuit
• AC hum circuit
• Capacitive touch circuit

[Thanks Giorgos and Ben]

Wanting to save space and weight on his project build [Florin] set out to find a way to add Ethernet connectivity without the magnetics. His ill-advised first try involved directly coupling two switches, frying both in the process. After some research he found that Ethernet hardware manufacturers have considered the need for devices without the magnetics and there are several application notes available on the subject. [Florin] followed the information that Realtek has for their devices and learned that they can be couple capacitively. After depopulating the magnetics from a second pair of switches he wired up some resistor-capacitor networks on a breadboard and got the connecting to work.

[Patman2700] has a nice scope for his paintball gun that uses a red dot instead of cross-hairs. The problem is that he kept forgetting to turn it off which ended up running the batteries down frequently. His solution to the problem was to get rid of the toggle switch used to turn it on and replace it will a home-made momentary push button switch. Now he presses the switch to aim and doesn’t waste juice when he’s running around, trying not to get pelted with paint.

Since this is used outside he wanted it to be water-tight. The switch is built using materials we’ve seen in previous diy switches; adhesive-backed copper sheets for conductors, foam to keep them separated until pressed, and plastic as a support. Copper is applied to the plastic base, with a ring of foam separating the base from the second layer of copper. When squeezed, the two layers of copper come in contact to complete the circuit. To make it work a bit better [Patman2700] added a dab of solder in the center of the bottom copper layer so there is less distance between conductors, and used extra foam to build up a bump in the center of the assembly for a better ‘button’ feel. The whole thing is encased in shrink-wrap with the seams sealed with super glue to keep moisture at bay.

If you’ve ever designed an embedded system with at least one button you’ve had to deal with button debouncing. This is also know as contact bounce, a phenomenon where a button press can be registered as multiple button presses if not handled correctly. One way to take care of this is with a hardware filter built from a resistor-capacitor setup, or by using a couple of NAND gates. We find that [Jack Ganssle] put together the most comprehensive and approachable look at contact bounce which you should read through if you want to learn more.

We’re interested in software solutions for debouncing buttons. This seems to be one of the most common forum questions but it can be hard to find answers in the form of reliable code examples. Do you have debounce code that you depend on in every application? Are you willing to share it with the world? We’d like to gather as many examples as possible and publish them in one-post-to-rule-them-all.

Send your debounce code to: debounce@hackaday.com

Here’s some guidelines to follow:

• Please only include debounce code. Get rid of other unrelated functions/etc.
• You should send C code. If you want to also send an assembly code version that’s fine, but it must be supplementary to the C code.
• Please comment your code. This will help others understand and use it. You may be tempted to explain the code in your email but this info is best placed in the code comments
• Cite your sources. If you adapted this code from someone else’s please include a note about that in the code comments.

As an example we’ve included one of our favorite sets of debounce code after the break. Please note how it follows the guidelines listed above.

/*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
10/13/2010: Button debounce code by Mike Szczys

based on "danni debounce" code by Peter Dannegger:
http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=189356#189356

This code detects and debounces button presses. It is tailored for use with
AVR microcontrollers but I've adapted it for other architectures easily and
successfully. It can be modified to use all eight bits on the same port
for up to eight buttons.

The interrupt service routine (ISR) at the bottom uses binary counter
variables (ct0 and ct1) to check the buttons once every 10ms until 40ms has
passed. If the button registeres the first and last times it reads it as
a keypress. There is no functionality in this code for detecting a held
button.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------*/

// F_CPU used by debounce to calculate 10ms interrupts
#define F_CPU 1200000

#include <avr/io.h>
#include <avr/interrupt.h>

//define pins used by buttons
#define KEY_DDR		DDRB
#define KEY_PORT	PORTB
#define KEY_PIN		PINB
#define KEY0		1	//Button on PB1
#define KEY1		2	//Button on PB2

//Debounce variables
unsigned char debounce_cnt = 0;
volatile unsigned char key_press;
unsigned char key_state;

/*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Prototypes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
unsigned char get_key_press( unsigned char key_mask );
void init_timers(void);
void init_io(void);

/*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  FUNC: 10/13/10 - Used to read debounced button presses
  PARAMS: A keymask corresponding to the pin for the button you with to poll
  RETURNS: A keymask where any high bits represent a button press
--------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
unsigned char get_key_press( unsigned char key_mask )
{
  cli();			// read and clear atomic !
  key_mask &= key_press;	// read key(s)
  key_press ^= key_mask;	// clear key(s)
  sei();			// enable interrupts
  return key_mask;
}

/*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  FUNC: 10/13/10 - Sets and starts a system timer
  PARAMS: NONE
  RETURNS: NONE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void init_timers(void)
{
  cli();			// read and clear atomic !
  //Timer0 for buttons
  TCCR0B |= 1<<CS02 | 1<<CS00;	//Divide by 1024
  TIMSK0 |= 1<<TOIE0;		//enable timer overflow interrupt
  sei();			// enable interrupts
}

/*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  FUNC: 10/13/10 - Initialize input and output registers
  PARAMS: NONE
  RETURNS: NONE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void init_io(void)
{
  //Setup Buttons
  KEY_DDR &= ~((1<<KEY0) | (1<<KEY1));	//Set pins as input
  KEY_PORT |= (1<<KEY0) | (1<<KEY1);	//enable pull-up resistors
}

/*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  FUNC: 10/13/10 - Main
--------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
int main(void)
{
  init_timers();	//start the timer
  init_io();		//setup the buttons

  for (;;) //loop forever
  {
    if( get_key_press( 1<<KEY0 ))
    {
      //KEY0 press detected. Do something here
    }

    if (get_key_press( 1<<KEY1 ))
    {
      //KEY1 press detected. Do something here
    }
  }
}

//--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ISR(TIM0_OVF_vect)           // interrupt every 10ms
{
  static unsigned char ct0, ct1;
  unsigned char i;

  //TCNT0 is where TIMER0 starts counting. This calculates a value based on
  //the system clock speed that will cause the timer to reach an overflow
  //after exactly 10ms
  TCNT0 = (unsigned char)(signed short)-(((F_CPU / 1024) * .01) + 0.5);   // preload for 10ms interrupts

  i = key_state ^ ~KEY_PIN;    // key changed ?
  ct0 = ~( ct0 & i );          // reset or count ct0
  ct1 = ct0 ^ (ct1 & i);       // reset or count ct1
  i &= ct0 & ct1;              // count until roll over ?
  key_state ^= i;              // then toggle debounced state
  key_press |= key_state & i;  // 0->1: key press detect
}

[Photo credit: Jack Ganssle]

Forget hacking an easy button, grab a couple of those outdated CD-Rs and build your own switch for that next project. This was developed with handicapped accessibility in mind; assembled easily with common products and it’s fairly robust. In fact, our junk box has everything you need except the adhesive backed copper foil. Combine two old CD’s, covered in copper on facing sides, separated by two strips of Velcro to separate the conductors. When pressure is applied, one CD flexes to make contact with the other and complete the circuit. So easy, yet we never thought of it. We’ll add it to our list of homebrew input devices.

[Thanks Michael]

[Daniel Eindhoven] put together this 11,344 Joule capacitor bank that he says would be perfect for weapons such as a rail gun, coil gun, or electrothermal-chemical gun. He machined a couple of aluminum plates to act as a positive and negative bus. The two are separated by a denuded sheet of PCB (making us wonder how he got the copper to peel off like that). Once charged there’s the little problem of how to discharge the system without getting bit, which [Daniel] solved by building a pneumatic switch. We didn’t find the test-fire footage very interesting but we did embed the demonstration of his switch after the break.

[Thanks Kurt via Hacked Gadgets]

[Katrin Baumgarten] has fourteen switches that are made to gross you out. From a button that retreats into its hole as your finger approaches, to a mysterious goo-oozing faceplate, to a hairy housing that gets aroused as your try to flip it on, the intrigue is enough to get you to try out the next creepy node in the network. There’s a clip of several different switches after the break and if that’s not enough she’s got more on her Vimeo channel.

[Sprite_TM] outgrew the features of the cheap unmanaged TL-SG1005D switch he was using on his home network. Instead of buying a new and much more costly switch he cracked the cheap one open and found that the RTL8366SB chip inside possessed the ability to work harder but was crippled for sale as a low-end model. It wasn’t as easy as that oscilloscope firmware upgrade we saw a while back. He had to add an AVR ATmega88 to send I2C commands to the switch. Turns out that the I2C protocol wasn’t standard and after much head scratching he found some Linux drivers for the chipset that gave him enough info to send the configuration commands he needed. Now he’s go the managed switch he needed for his VLAN for the cost of a microcontroller and some wire.

[Muris] is back with another infrared controlled lighting hack. When we checked in with him last year he was showing off an IR controlled dimmer module. Now he’s back with this device that is CFL friendly. Because standard CFL bulbs are not dimmer compatible he’s adapted the project away from dimming and toward switching. The new design still uses an infrared remote but now it can turn two devices on and off again or toggle between them. Our favorite part of the build is that the PIC based device can learn the codes of whichever remote you choose, rather than having to rely on one specific type of remote.

[Kajer] was doing some work with IP phones that use Power over Ethernet. While trying to get this to work with a network switch he decided to use PoE to power the switch itself. The best thing about this is he managed to shoehorn all of the necessary bits into the stock case. Those bits include a bridge rectifier, transistor, resistor, and a 5v power supply. Along the way he discovered he can now power the switch off of USB if he wishes.