When the apocalypse comes, we want [Justin] on our team! He made a hefty 400 W work light out of four 100 W LEDs mounted to a giant, aluminum slab-like heat sink he had lying around. He manufactured a diffuser for the LEDs by cutting down what appeared to be a old broken fluorescent light fixture’s cover, with side plates bolted into place for good measure. [Justin] does a lot of metalwork in his projects, and you can see it the precision with which he bolts the various parts together into a rather slick assembly.
The LEDs run off 110 V, and [Justin] soldered one of those white iPhone USB chargers in to power four small fans that are mounted on the heat sink fins backing up the LEDs. Then he mounted a ball joint onto the underside so the thing could be pointed wherever, with the other end of the joint attached to what might be the tripod from a standing work light.
Now all he needs is a control system, like this arcade button workshop light or this fully controllable workshop lighting rig.
Gul Dukat: “How many lights are there?”
Picard: “There are NO lights!”
Gul Dukat: “No lights???”
Picard: “YOU FRIED MY RETINAS YOU SCALY IDIOT!”
Not Dukat, Gul Madred.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_of_Command_(Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation)
What savagery; solder grease, blowtorch and whiskey from a jar! Are these AC powered LED modules?
Yes they are – about $10 aussie ea. Also available in 150W units.
I’d like to know the heat output of these things… and you know, the melting temperature of hot glue…
heat output is around 55W/led
The heat output is insane, I have a “100w” module that will hit 80c in under 15 seconds if it is not strapped to a hefty heat sink.
The light quality is also terrible. The drivers on those “driverless” LEDs have no filtering on the output so the light intensity flickers at 120Hz. Under some conditions (slow shutter speeds and low framerates) they can be used for filming but otherwise they cause rolling bands of light and dark, for high frame rate filming they just cause an obnoxious strobe as seen here: strobe https://i.imgur.com/8cvZxmL.gifv
They can be fed DC directly to eliminate the flicker but it must be at a reduced voltage. Giving them rectified and filtered mains (about 170VDC) lets out the magic smoke pretty quickly.
The real savagery is mixing bourbon and coke!
Are you gonna see Avengers: Infinity War?
I’ll just leave this here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXkOxP5hka4
Did you also know that those crap American PSUs also blow up all the time?
They are only crap if you’re ignoring the fact the LED/PSU is rated for American 110V and you’re ignoring that it is being supplied 220/240V from the UK socket that it is being plugged into….
Instead, if he had two LED modules in series, then it’ll last longer that a few milliseconds. There maybe some excess power to get rid of though, or adding a third module just in case… maybe a ballast resistor set for the two modules?.
Also an American PSU survive if there is a switch on the back to switch off the voltage doubler, or a power factor correction SMPS (Acts as a step-down and a PFC in one) is installed before the filter cap and primary-side SMPS.
Thus neither are crap, only the person attempting to operate them incorrectly is crap (OK, maybe in a state of learning, unless they just don’t learn)
I feel like it is worth pointing out that the video that you are condemning was done as a joke. This can be inferred from the narrator referring to the LED as a “Led”, the soldering being performed by holding the iron in his fist and stabbing the tabs, the resistors added to the underside of the unit the provide the fireworks, the comment about opening an eBay case and finally the video’s description stating that it is a set-up.
To be fair, I haven’t had my full caffeine dose yet, and it took me at least 20 seconds into the vid to realise it wasn’t just an authentic dumbass.
Lol, I could tell just by looking that it’s a Big Clive video. That background is just so unmistakable.
I’ve seen those built with a USB plug or RJ45 in place of the LED. They look just as safe.
what the hell, this level of autism here is concerning. almost tumblr like.
thats a 33-35V led on 220V mains… he’s using the newer 100W modules with built in drivers.
120v? I guess the power grid is still functional in this hypothetical future apocalypse…
Or whatever source you have driving a mechanically coupled motor/generator set to convert that to the voltage you need, WWII dynamotor style. Or a whopping big joule thief arrangement if you have the parts, post-apocalypse.
I think a treadmill might be easier than getting the zombies onto stationary bikes. Thanks for making me realize my zombie pyrolyzer was a way-overthought zombies-to-energy approach.
Had a similar idea back in highschool, was gonna use them to power my “Zom-bus”.
Well if you don’t have supernaturally animated zombies for endless free energy, then may as well keep the pyrolyzer plan for when they flake out on the treadmill.
Elon Musk in-home solar!
Second time I mentioned him now in the last hour, WTF is going on, I seem possessed by the PR ghost of EM.
Mind you I do see more and more solar panels on roofs in my direct surroundings, it seems to be taking off alright. Although in my area they are not related to Musk though, but the point is that if you got solar and the battery packs coming with it you are good to go
I’ve got 2 of these out in my workshop, little did I know they were worthy of a hackaday article
200% pure Chinesieum crap –These flicker so bad I felt sick for over an hour after using them on a similar build.
I’ve never had a problem with light flicker until I met these. The LEDs are pure garbage! Big Clive has a video on how to reduce flicker with a cap but it didn’t look too promising… or safe.
they dont care. soldering some wires on a led is considered a amazing, unbelieveable hack in 2017s cuckaday.
The point I believe is that it was built from mostly scrap. He spent $30 for a very useable light source. Yes, it is a simple, but artful and functional builf.
Show me a 500w LED for $20.
These are mostly flicker fee I have tested some. There is a capacitor on board to reduce it. I haven’t seen him test these particular ones that are advertised as flicker free.
The ones I tried were also advertised as flicker free.
They are flicker free IF you have zero motion under them. If you wave your hand in front of them and it is like a stop motion animation.
Did you see any flicker in the video?