Tools: Aoyue 968 3-in-1 soldering and rework station

posted Feb 20th 2009 2:30pm by
filed under: reviews, tool hacks

aoyue968-front

The $10 “fire-starter” is the most common beginner soldering iron. These are simple irons with a hot end, a handle, and little else. There’s no temperature control or indication. Despite their simplicity, they’ll do just about anything. You can solder any legged chip type with this type of iron. We used fire-starters in the lab for years.

Eventually, we wanted a hot air rework tool to salvage SMD parts and solder QFN chips. Aoyue is a relatively unknown Chinese brand that makes soldering stations very similar in appearance and function to Hakko. Aoyue stations are recommended and used by Sparkfun Electronics, something that factored heavily in our decision to buy an Aoyue. Read more about our experiences with this tool after the break.

aoyue968

The Aoyue 968 combines three tools: an adjustable soldering iron, a digitally controlled hot air tool, and a fume extractor. We usually prefer separate units because the parts can be individually upgraded or replaced, but this combined tool is much cheaper and saves valuable bench space in the lab.

iron-and-filter

The soldering iron temperature is adjusted with a knob, with a range of 200 to 480 degrees Celsius. We usually solder between 300C and 350C.

The iron handle is an inexpensive plastic assembly that eventually broke along the threads that hold the iron in place. New irons are available for around $15, but we fixed the old one with some high-temperature epoxy.

The fume extractor is a tube that attaches to the soldering iron. The hot air rework tool air intake is used to suck fumes away from the tip of the iron. The fumes are filtered with a small plastic net before exiting through the hot-air tool. It works really well, and eliminates the breath-hold-solder-breath system we used to avoid getting a nose full of flux fumes. The tiny filter doesn’t look like it does much, but it came with a replacement. We worry somewhat about the long term effects of coating the hot air tool’s heating element with rosin and other crud.

iron-holder667

It’s pretty obvious that the iron holder wasn’t intended for this particular iron because the holding ring doesn’t fit the fume extractor attachment, this is a bit of a pain.

rework-and-nozz

The hot air rework tool has a temperature range of 90 to 480 degrees Celsius. We use 400C hot air to remove passive parts, and 420C to remove chips.

The temperature is adjusted in 2 degree increments using the digital numerical readouts. The air flow rate is adjusted with a knob, volume is indicated by a floating ball gauge. The hot air tool came with a half-dozen nozzles, we’ve only used the medium size.

aoyue-inside1

We’re extremely happy with the Auyoe 968. It’s already paid for itself twice, in terms of not having to replace $10 soldering irons every month. If it breaks, we can buy a new one without regret. The hot air rework tool has opened a world of possibilities for salvaging parts and repairing projects. The adjustable soldering iron provides enough heat to solder something big and dirty, but also adjusts downward so it doesn’t destroy delicate traces.  We haven’t needed to replace the iron tip or either heating element, but we understand they’re compatible with parts from other major manufacturers .

aoyue-inside2

Until recently, Auyoe was only available in Asia and Europe. We bought this one in Germany for about $100. The Aoyue 968 is now available on Amazon in North America, Sparkfun also has several other Aoyue models.

Sure, Aoyue isn’t haute couture for geeks like a Hakko or Weller, but for less than a third of the price you get a respectable rework  station that’s not a lifetime investment. As heavy DIY users, we think this station has performed great. We highly recommend it to anyone buying their first serious soldering iron. If you’re a pro with an industrial budget, buy yourself a Hakko or Weller; we’re doing just fine with our Aoyue!

Learn about soldering with an iron and hot air, and see an Aoyue in action, in the Sparkfun soldering tutorials.

Are there any tool reviews you’d like to see?



70 Responses to Tools: Aoyue 968 3-in-1 soldering and rework station

  • Jake says:

    I’ve had mine for at least a year or so for light soldering and occasionally rework and its great. The holder is mildly annoying but you can get the air extractor to fit outside the ring and the soldering part in the middle.

    The one thing you might want to mention is the filter is NOISEY, i mean its not too bad, but after its been on awhile and you turn it off its always that ‘ahhh so much better’ relief feeling. So if you used it a lot, might want to consider that. BUT, its much better having it than not. The amount of fume reduction is huge.

    The heat gun is also quite useful. My only other wish is that it was a desoldering station as well :P

  • Stu says:

    Chinese eh?
    So how many child labour facilities with abysmal health codes does it take to put these units together?

  • Dak says:

    @craftguy I believe it only takes 1 “facility” maybe 7 children…

  • Derek says:

    Weller? Maybe for hot air rework.
    Hakko is for most stuff, but when you flip the switch on a Metcal, the bullshit ends.

  • aficionado says:

    my digital weller with its $120 price tag and $4 tips and 9 °F control is just fine.

    there is no reason to spend the extra money on a metcal.

  • Gabe says:

    See, this is what I call a review!
    Unlike the tweezer RLC meter review, this one is realistic, constructively critical, and geared towards the hacker.

    Nice improvement HACKADAY!

  • BronzeG3 says:

    For those who only want a hot air station, try the Aoyue 850A++ and solder paste from dealextreme.com. The 850A++ doesn’t list actual temperature, so you will have to play with the settings to find the ideal temperature and air flow.

    I’ve used this setup to solder QFN16 chips and pull smd resistors, caps, and various ICs from random computer cards.

  • Ironz says:

    I have two of the Aoyue 2702 stations in my office with an assortment of tips and nozzles. They have been very good machines and the tips have good lifespans even with the abuse some undergrads provide. We also have Weller WESD51′s everywhere but I prefer the Aoyue’s, esp with the fume extractor built in.

  • nrp says:

    Hakko knockoffs are wonderful. I have a clone of the 926 that cost half as much as the real thing and has served me well for the past few years. The finish quality is obviously lacking, but the temperature is stable and the parts are interchangable.

  • Spork says:

    I have the exact one pictured. It works like the price suggests. Small quirks, not perfect. On the other hand, it’s great for rework and I can fit a 0.5mm tip on, so my SMD work is awesome.

  • Gabe says:

    @BronzeG3

    I didn’t see the Aoyue 850A++ at dealextreme.com . Do you know if they stopped selling it there? How much was it? How long ago was it?
    Thanks

  • Josh says:

    @gabe
    I think he was talking about the solder paste from dealextreme. there’s some pretty cheap (sometimes price, sometimes quality) stuff to be had from there. if you don’t mind the waiting (and waiting) for it to ship from china.

  • Steve Shockley says:

    How useful is the hot air for desoldering thru-hole components?

  • jproach says:

    I also have the same unit pictured.

    Works great except for the ergonomics of the handle. I prefer a small handle with some foam, so I swapped it out for a weller PES51 (the heating element, and bit holder were left as is).

    Fume extractor is really cool, but too noisy. So I just stick with my pc fans.

    Nice review.

  • sanchoooo says:

    great review. almost makes me wish i didn’t buy my weller.. almost.

  • Jose Torres says:

    @ Steve Shockley
    It is not useful at all to remove thru-hole components. It’s a waste of time.

  • nxb says:

    Have a similar chinaco piece at work. Needless to say the hot air gun caught on fire. They sent a replacement but then the tip on the soldering iron wore away for reasons I still can’t figure out and they won’t elaborate on. I bought the $100 one on ebay so maybe this one is slightly better.

    Through hole components? My old job used hot air guns when replacing dc plugs on laptops. It was quicker than with iron and braid and waiting for it to heat up. If you were good the holes would all be clear and the broken dc would fall to the floor.

    The best use out of these things? BGA rework.

  • Todd says:

    I would love to see a review of your favorite multi-tester. I recently killed (unsure how) my beloved old RadioShack (high end, really nice) multi-tester, and RadioShack no longer carries any high-end testers.

    Looking for something in the $100 range that handles all of the basics.

  • nxb says:

    Harbor freight sells $10 multimeters. The only thing they are missing is noise on the continuity test.

  • nick says:

    @todd, i have a Fluke 83V, i know its really really expensive. but If your really serious about your reading accuracy get a fluke, even a used fluke or an old series is still really good. But for a good accurate “throw away” multimeter i picked up a greenlee dm-60 at lowes for only 70 bucks. That cheep little thing is good for if i have to mess around the house to troubleshoot something..

  • philpem says:

    @josh: dealextreme ships from hong kong, not china. not that it makes much difference :)

    I’ve got two soldering irons — an Antex 660TC kit (TC50 50W iron and 660 temperature controller) and an Aoyue 852A+ hot-air station.

    The 660TC is *very* nice. Got mine for ~£100 sterling in a Maplin sale (just before they stopped selling them) and it’s lasted somewhere on the order of five years. The only fault it’s picked up along the way is a slight buzz (I think the transformer laminations have come loose).

    The 852 is very nice, for what it cost. I’ve spent about an hour using it, and managed to remove some SMDs from an old mobile phone PCB quite easily. Truth be told, I bought it for SMD rework and because I wanted to have a go at QFN soldering (there’s an Intersil appnote about doing this with a soldering iron and a hot air station).

    Got my 852A+ from here — http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=37. It looks like they’re a bit thin on the ground at the moment, which is a shame… :(

  • chippy says:

    Have a similar model, #1 once burned up on first use. Second worked fine.

    Can’t complain for the price.

  • ragnar says:

    I have good experiences with ERSA all my life. Now I use a RDS-80 Station and I’m very happy with it. If I need hot air I will take a look at aoyue, they seem to offer good prices.

  • DarkFader says:

    Simple mod for the holder: http://flickr.com/photos/darkfader/231499729/
    And I had to put some aluminum foil between the black ring and grip since it was too loose.
    Also, the black paint of the holder totally comes off. I’m using a metal wool ball now but requires another stand.
    The hot air heater also sometimes resets to 90′C.
    And the blue light is always on.

  • Lewis says:

    I had one of these up until last week.
    It caught fire.

  • Roboguy says:

    @nick
    $70 dollars buys you a “throw-away” multimeter? How much do you pay for “regular” gas?

  • Mike M says:

    I have their “3 in 1″ model that includes a desoldering iron. Its complete crap. The desoldering iron gets clogged after every suck and you have to disassemble it and clean it. But thats not the worst part. The “3 in 1″ is a lie! Oh you want to use the soldering iron and the desoldering iron at the same time? I mean is that too much to ask? Apparently so! You have to manually swap the irons because there is only one power port making this thing pretty much useless for rework.

    All I have to say is you get what you pay for. These systems look nice but they are absolute crap. I’ve had a Weller WRS3000 rework station for over 6 years now and it’s been great, but I paid nearly 4 times as much for it. The Aoyue got shelved after a month of work and has been since replaced by a refurbished Hakko 703 I found on fleabay.

  • seantech says:

    After soldering with some of the major players in the market of industrial soldering stations, I now privately own a Metcal (sitting right next to me on my desk) and swear by it. :-)

  • Justblair says:

    interesting find. These chinese units offer for the amateur very good VFM.

    I got the Kada 852D (swap Kada with any brand name you like, the same unit can be found with many brands upon it.

    I reviewed mine a while back….

    http://www.justblair.co.uk/the-kada-852-smt-solderstation.html

    Like Hackaday, it’s got it’s niggles, but I am totally happy with the product. It’s unfair to compare these with the expensive units, but in reality they come much closer to the premium units than teir price would suggest.

  • Bob says:

    This ‘small plastic net’ – is that not an activated carbon filter? Or am I expecting too much?

    We use the ERSA i-CON soldering irons and the JBC JT-7750 hot air rework station at work. You could probably buy 10 Aoyue 968′s for the price of just one of each of those two, but to be honest I think it’s definately worth the extra money to get some quality tools.

  • PlatinumT says:

    i have had the one pictured for at least two years and love it. the only problem i had with mine was that within the first hour of use it blew a fuse. i ended up destroying the fuse holder trying to get it open. i almost want to say the cap to the fuse holder was glued on. i ended up replacing the fuse holder with one from rs and a slow blow fuse of same value. no problems after that… probably my best investment on my bench.

  • Terry says:

    @bob I doubt these things have an activated charcoal filter but adding one would be pretty easy. I have an electric water fountain for our cat that uses replaceable activated charcoal filters. Petsmart and Target sell replacement filters that are a great shape for a use like this.

  • dubmuffin says:

    @terry:

    Drinkwell filters are painfully expensive compared to a floss bag and loose activated charcoal available at the same petsmart for use in a fish tank.

  • JK says:

    That’s interesting. I got myself a soldering iron station from Aoyue about two years ago because it has temperature selection (analogue, though) and was quite inexpensive. It actually works quite well so far for my not-so-professional needs.

    The one thing that made me nervous was the smell of the handle and cable of the iron as well as the power cable. This sort of smell usually tells that Diethylhexylphthalat (DEHP) or similar, cancer-related chemicals are involved. Here, cheap tools and the like made with that are usually removed from sales when catched by testers.

    In my case, I replaced the power cord (standard plug as used in ATX PSUs and what have you) with a “clean” one and wrapped the handle in duct tape to largely reduce the chance to touch it (the toxins are transferred through skin contact, for what I’ve read). I think I should to that to the cable, too.

    Don’t get me wrong, I’m not whining, but this was too obstrusive to ignore. But that’s what you get when you save money where you shouldn’t.

  • Tec says:

    I’d buy this right now, but the US prices are -way- up there. The $115-125 set wants ~$90 shipping, and the rest are $160 or so (+ real shipping.) And Sparkfun isn’t showning any units on the link in the article.

    Anyone have a lead on these for the ~$100 mentioned for US customers?

  • Ben Jackson says:

    These look like they’d take Xytronic tips. I even saw a page which listed the specific included tip with a Xytronic part number. Can anyone verify?

    I’m also interested in a source where the total w/shipping is < $150

  • Ian Lesnet says:

    I bought this one three years ago (2006) from WilTec in Germany. At the time, it was about 100USD plus less than 10USD shipping to anywhere in the EU.

  • Ian Lesnet says:

    …adding – WilTec sells the EU model that runs at 220volts@50Hz and is intended for use in Europe and the UK. If you don’t have a handy 220 supply, you’ll need the North American 110volt model.

  • doc says:

    I contacted Wiltec, Germany, today.

    They have all models from AOYUE in stock http://www.aoyue.de They told me, that they are the largest distributor for Aoyue products worldwide and deliver to many resellers in Europe. They just can deliver 230V machines. For 110 V they gave me the address: http://www.sra-solder.com.

    The Web-Shop from http://www.WilTec.info is partial in English and French, they still translate the site. Emails in the both languages are answered very fast.

    I think I will visit them shortly, because it is not so far from brux.

    doc

  • Seb says:

    I have the 868 for the lab since 3 year now.
    The problem with the handle is the little PCB
    that hold heating element, it burn and fail to
    correctly hold the tip in place.
    I have successfuly used Hakko tip like 900M-T-0.8D
    on it.
    The solder iron lack a little power when heating large copper surface but do the job.
    The heat gun is very powefull but let it stabilize when you change temperature.
    And for the price, yes , you have the noise !

    Seb.

  • dago says:

    anybody know is the connector for the soldering iron the same as for Hakkos? my point is that the soldering iron handle MELTED when I turned it on full power (was soldering some largish pieces of copper). I don’t feel like buying another one of these crappy handles so I though if it could fit hakko handles?

    the hot air side has worked really well, no problems there, just the soldering iron holder and handle are pretty crap.

  • doc says:

    hi, some of the hakko parts are compatible. But hakko is much more expensive. I changed from Hakko to Aoyue, and if heating elements bruns, it is a failure of user. sorry.
    doc

  • Ian Lesnet says:

    @doc and seb – Thanks for the compatibility report. We’ve been told that some parts are compatible, but yours are the only first-hand reports we’ve read.

  • dago says:

    well the heating element didnt “brun”, the metal part of the handle melted off from the plastic handle…

  • ericwertz says:

    I also have one of these — got it almost two years ago. It hasn’t gotten a huge amount of use, but it’s held-up ok. As previously mentioned, the fume extractor *is* kinda loud, but I don’t have anything to compare it against either, so…

    I got mine at http://store.sra-solder.com/index.php when they had them on sale (for about 25%, IIRC), perhaps during their line’s introduction on the site, which was considerably cheaper than I could find them elsewhere at the time.

    I have no reason not to recommend them, other than the aforementioned noise and wanky solder pen holder.

  • Terry says:

    Now the only question is where to get one of these cheap. Anyone?

  • space says:

    I have worked on that one for two years. My advice for new users: Leave air high, and temperature low when powering off. That way you wont blow up the heater if something goes wrong. Crank up the temperature in steps of 50C to working temperature. That way you’ll save the heater form melting down.
    If the ball jumps up and down it might be that air channels are dirty or blocked. Do not use the suction, and place the air filter in front of it. That way You’ll be able to use it for years full time, without any problems.

  • joseph says:

    Hi space, I will receive my station tomorrow. What do you mean with “Do not use the suction, and place the air filter in front of it”.

  • doc says:

    @ dago and @ space
    the problem with melting elemetns is just given if you are a new user.

    New users, like our trainees, damage the elements more often than a prof. user.

    If you use it like written from space you ‘ll never have problems with Aoyue elements anymore.

    But low air and hot temperature is the totally wrong way. If you need more heat use the preheater: http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/language/EN/info/p2977_AOYUE-853A-Quartz-IR-Preheating-Station.html

    That is the better way for heating element and PCB.

  • dago says:

    Well my soldering iron heating element is fine, it just totally melted off from the plastic handle which I do not think its supposed to do…

  • TheBakachan says:

    A couple months back, I bought an Aoyue 968, an 853A preheating station, and a vacuum pickup. (Technically, you can swap the 968′s smoke extractor for a vacuum pickup pen if you buy a replacement pen from an Aoyue dealer for like $15, but the standalone unit is only $30)

    Pretty damn good, and it hardly cost anything. Still haven’t gotten the hang of hot-air soldering though… For some reason the solder paste just never ‘activates’ or reflows…

  • good review. i see some of criticism of this model in the comments, comparing the quality to brands like weller and hakko, which is a little surprising to me. this model clocks in at just a little over $100 and opens up a whole slew of projects that were previously completely out of reach for an amateur/hobbyist.

    i’m really stoked to see product lines popping up that are marketed and priced for more casual consumers. to compare it to models that are marketed almost exclusively at businesses and professionals is silly, it isn’t even the same ballpark. this kind of equipment was previously something i’d have to rent or head to a local shop to use–i’m way excited to now have one of these bad boys in the garage.

  • BANKIM DESAI says:

    please sand rates for above product

  • Jx says:

    The soldering iron handle and the air gun were damaged due to prolonged (mis)use. The temperature sensor inside the smd rework was damaged but i found that only when i decided to open it up.
    Anyway it was stored in a place that got flooded with sewer water and it got unusable. Until i saw the pictures on this site I didn’t see a reason to reuse it but now I’m tinkering with the air pump which is pretty good as a water pump also. For now.
    The air pump is working on 220v AC so it’s dangerous using it as a water pump but I’m using power from an UPS to minimize the risks.
    Thanks for the info that gave me the crazy idea :)

  • David says:

    Im a student at ITT tech geting started i looking to get a good Soilding station for hobbes and school. i looking in to this Aoyue 968. for all what it can do but befor i pay. i would like to know if its what i need.. anyone input.?

  • ZACK says:

    I have this exact unit. The first day I plug it in the hot air worked good. I was working on my computer and smelled something burning–the heating element in the hot air gun heated up orange hot. THE UNIT WAS PLUGGED IN BUT SWITCHED OFF when this happened! Sent it back and had it fixed.

    Soldering iron is a poor performer. You can have the temp knob cranked all the way and still have trouble soldering a via on a large trace. Anything less than half way on the knob and its pretty useless.

    Bottom Line: Hot air gun works good. It gets so hot it will de-solder anything you want. But i still fear it’ll burn my house down. Soldering iron is useless to me–i use my plug-in 35W Weller iron.

    I either have a lemon unit or the Aoyue is just plain unreliable. I would not buy this unit again. Spend the extra money and find a higher end one like Pace or Weller.

    Zack

  • Nick says:

    I have this exact unit. It is very good with desoldering thru hole components and salvaging pretty much everything. The only thing i have not figured out yet is the correct settings for pulling plastic components without melting them.

    Here are the settings I use for desoldering:
    390C temp
    ~4 airflow

    I have no had the chance to test the soldering iron yet but the fume extractor is nice and silent. This review made me purchase my unit from SRA soldering in mass. It was an amazing purchase and was about $175 shipped. I also an Aoyue 328 working platform made for clamping circuit boards.

    Also you MUST remove the red screw on the bottom or it will be very noisy and vibrate a lot. the screw is only there to secure the pump during shipping because it normally only has rubber mounts.

  • Morganism says:

    Got the 2702+, on that SRA introductory sale.

    Excellent fit and finish, worth the extra 50 bucks.
    Came with vac pen, lots of air horns, and the desolder handle. Still can’t use the solder/desolder at the same time, but it has lots of power, and the element holder has much better fit than the above model. Think it takes Hakko tips too, but havn’t cooked any yet, and have had for two years now. Order the smallest chisel point you can too.

    Just a happy user.

  • I have Aoyue 2702 soldering station. It works great.

  • Voxmagna says:

    I have one of these which I have now modified. I was miffed there was decent suction and a fancy display which they only used for fume extraction. I’m a hobbyist and spend little time soldering. I’m over 60 so not worried about solder resin fumes I’ve been around all my working life – and I don’t smoke.

    First I bought the B1002A desolder gun. 24 volts same as the iron , but a few more watts compared to the iron (but the 968 has a decent size transformer). Same K type thermocouple sensor.
    The desolder gun comes with an 8 pole connector, irons are 5 pole. Both stock range at Maplin. Transformer probably won’t run the iron and desolder gun together so I decided to replace their front panel connector with a Maplin 8 pole and change plug on the iron. 2 extra poles on the connector are needed for the vac. pump on/off switch.

    Pin connections for oem 5 way are: Pin 1 Blue and PIn 2 Green = element. Pin 3 Yell= case ground, Pin 4 Red and Pin 5 black are the ‘K’ thermocouple.

    Pin connections for the desolder gun 8 pole are Pin 1 red and pin 2 Grey+yell = element. Pin 3 blue and pin 5 black = normally open vac switch. Pin 4 brown= case ground. Pin 6 green and pin 7 white = ‘K’ thermocouple. Wire colors may vary, but this is the info to transpose their 5 pole to 8 pole connectors.

    Remove the pot nut and desolder the front panel connector to pull the board away. Solder short 25mm colored wires to each used pin of the new 8 pole connector. Match the element, thermocouple and ground to their pcb. The board copper is very poor so clean and tin to the track if the hole pads break. Trace where the 2 brown wires connected to the smoke absorber switch solder to the display board and tack on wires connected to pins 3 and 5 (vac trigger switch). Note you will lose the led ‘on’ function, but you can hear the pump! Replace the front panel board with a couple of M10 washers to increase spacing between the board and 8 pole connector wires.

    I cut some thin stainless sheet to make a rest for the desolder gun on the right of the case. I cut 20mm of their fume extractor hose, to make an ‘adapter’ for the thinner B1002A hose so it fits the front vac connector.

    In use you have to choose to plug in the iron or desolder gun. No sweat as these both are very fast warm up. Changeover switches or relays could get problematic as the thermocouple resistances are about one ohm. The airflow through the hot air gun drops back some (but still useable) if the desolder gun hose is left connected. Just pull off the hose if you want more air through the heat gun.

    This is what they should have produced for the original design – Hot air, soldering iron and desolder gun in one work station. But I’m happy I’ve now got even better value for money!

  • Robert Ablacon says:

    Does anyone have this equipment schematics? Mine is overheating and burning the heating element.

    • loki says:

      @Robert Ablacon
      “Mine is overheating and burning the heating element.”

      What element is overheating. If its the hotair gun, did you remove the pump lock screw located on the bottom of the unit (it should be labled with a sticker, or painted red)?

      If not this screw needs to be removed befor use. It is there to protect the pump during shipping.

      • Robert Ablacon says:

        The station is more than 4 years old and used to work perfectly, the screw was removed from day one, as the manual instructs. The problem is the heating element of the hot air, even if I install a new one, it burns.

      • friso seyfert says:

        i replaced the heating element, but now i think mine is overheating too… i’d like to know if anybody got a solution for this. i Believe a thermocouple that is supposed to connect to the metal housing around the heating element is not conncecting to the metal housing and thus not coupling the heat back.

      • friso seyfert says:

        here is a video of the overheating of the hot air gun element: aoyue 968 10094 hot air gun repleacement problems

  • Dave says:

    Hi does the 968A work on 220v ?

    • Voxmagna says:

      Its manufacturers spec. says it is 220V, my rating plate (bought in EU) says it is 210V to 240V and we are on 230V.

      From that spec and its weight, I don’t think their power supply is a wide range switch mode, which I might change sometime.

  • Voxmagna says:

    I’ve had mine nearly 3 years now. All I can suggest for the overheating problem is the sensor may be a K-type thermocouple just like those in the irons and I’ve already had a couple apart.

    If you go inside the case looking for the wires going down the black hose, I bet they are using a similar configuration to the irons. There will be at least 5 wires. i wire will (should!) be a ground. 2 wires will be the heater resistance. And two wires will have a very low resistance like < 1 ohm if they are using a thermocouple sensor. If that pair of wires is open circuit you have your answer. If this is the case, then it's rather sad the element heater circuit defaults to full on if the sensor wires get broken. If you find this kind of very low rsistance sensor, you can buy them with wires for thermo couple type electronic thermometers. But it would be a good idea to use said thermometer to re-check the calibration.

    Good Luck

  • Voxmagna says:

    Something else I’ve done with mine:

    Mine has the fume sucker which I’m not that bothered about for occasional hobby work. But what I do appreciate is a decent vacuum sucker. I bought the B1002A suction iron (nicely made) and replaced the iron connectors on my station front panel and on the irons I use for 8 way versions. The suction iron needs the on/ off switch wired to the vac pump.

    http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-b1002a-desoldering-gun-and-cable-clone-2.html

    Even though this iron is over 20 watts, it works fine and the temperature control is ok. At the moment I just unplug the soldering iron from its single socket to use the suction iron, but I may add a second socket on the front panel with a changeover power relay. I modified one of the vacuum bits to take a very fine 0.5mm bore brass tube. That pushes the vac. pump near to its limit, but it works fine for sucking around smd’s. I attached a 40mm dia. ‘Holster’ made from perforated stainless sheet to the right side of the 968.

    If I wanted another workstation, I would definitely look at something with two separate iron sockets and temperature controllers, to use the second for an ‘always on’ desoldering iron. But for the money, what I now have comes pretty close and the warm up time is only about 45 seconds after switching over irons.

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