3D Printer Looks Factory Made

[Richard Sum] came up with a great looking 3D printer and put his project up as a campaign on IndieGoGo.

[Richard]’s ‘SUMPOD’ is based off the reprap like a lot of other 3D printers, but the SUMPOD has a look of professionalism to it; the printer looks like something that would come from a factory. We think a lot of thought went into the design and fabrication of this printer.

The specs of the machine aren’t too bad either. It’s build area is 150x150x100 mm, or nearly 2 inches than the Makerbot Thing-O-Matic. We asked [Richard] about the drive system of the machine, and he told us there is a linear bearing/belt setup for the x and y axes with a screw drive for the z axis. The electronics are standard NEMA 17 motors and reprap RAMPS fare, so everything electrical is tried and true.

[Richard] plans on adding a Dremel attachment for pcb and lithophane milling. We hope that some design files of the SUMPOD released, but in the mean time we’re really looking forward to seeing the progress of this project.

22 thoughts on “3D Printer Looks Factory Made

  1. You should mention that he’s offering it really cheap. £300 plus £60 postage in UK for everything you need to assemble it. There are other versions too with soldering done or without the electronics.

  2. his site has a donation thing on it. 600$ will get you all the parts with assembled electronics.

    mendel ABS parts are ~200$ plus
    hardware kit is ~ 200$
    electronics ~ 150$

    However, the SUMPOD has a larger work surface and looks like a more solid design structurally. The only thing that might save RepRap with this one is there support via forums. As well as a detailed build guides, parts list, and open source firmware.

  3. I’d suggest HAD’s next “Breakdown” article be on the different 3D printers. I’ve recently become interested in them but comparison seems to be hard to find. Like build area, price, open source-ness, and mostly user reviews on how precise the parts come out.

    A makerbot seems pretty pricey for the smallest build area. So what makes it worth the price?

  4. Interesting that there is a mixture of drivetrains – trying to work out from pix –

    Threaded drive (ballscrew?) with rods + bushings for Z axis, yeah?

    And then belt drive with rods + bushings for X & Y? – is that because only the Z needs to carry the main big load, currently?

    Seems like the Z has the advantage of apparent simplicity – are the belt systems more involved/troublesome?

    What if the other stages need to carry greater load in future e.g. when routing with the Dremel head? – Would X & Y need to upgrade to screw drive for more ‘Oomph?’

  5. @zuul beat me to it.

    I know this isnt a mini-thesis on every announcement, but the grammar (and sometimes spelling) makes my eyes bleed.

    Hackaday is so loved by me, I’ll put up with it. :)

    Yeah, great machine. I’ll consider buying this machine.

  6. @gmcurrie seems that the gallery is not working for me, but i’m an expert on the internet so ill answer your questions anyway.

    it is unlikely to have ballscrews in the design as even cheap ones start at seveal hundred dollars for the screw and nut combination. probably acme threaded which are a fraction of the price just less efficient (60% less) and wear resistant.

    i am not a low res plastics guy so cant vouch for their requirements but usually belt drives are used to get greater speed or for dual leadscrew setups. it is not clear why in this case they are used.

    generally everything is designed around the most heavy part in operation, that is; either the table and workpiece or z-axis and spindle. so to answer your question in most likelihood yes, the x and y would need to be ‘upgraded’ to screw drives to maintain accuracy and avoid breakage. it is more like a side grade, get drive to screw couplers and ensure space in the design for them. either that or get more powerful motors (which may have to be done anyway) and a thicker beltdrive.

  7. The Z is a screw drive because it moves a little at a time, and then needs to hold the platform in mid-air. A belt would snap or wear out over time trying to carry that load, especially as the object got bigger. The other axises are belts, because a) they’re cheaper, and b) they need to move more quickly.

    My cupcake has belts for x/y and it’s still kicking along over a year later with no accuracy issues.

  8. I’d vote for the makergear mosiac over this for a few reasons. Linear guide rails, multistart acme leadscrew for the Z axis, Makergear’s awesome reputation. I do love more options though, and this machine is beautiful.

  9. anyone investigated DIY emulation the clean design of the UP! printer?

    – makes RepRap Mendel etc look bit Heath-Robinson/Rube Goldberg..

    Laser cut from MDF, bunch of other standard off-the-shelf parts, RAMPS & yr just about there??

  10. I ordered in May 2013 a machine (mega sumpod) worth £ 2800, delivery time was four weeks after multiple mail and telephone contact Mr. sum has always found excuses and repouser the date of delivery, I decided on 07/29/13 to demand repayment, he agreed but also behind and making excuses, there are now six months, I have taken steps. I am not alone in this case with sumpod the company (here other victim http://sumpod.proboards.com/thread/23/why-finally-cancelled-order) I recommend you don’t to order from him or to trust him, he is a thief and a liar.”

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