food engineering

2 Articles

Three brown pancakes are sitting in a frying pan.

Optimizing Pancakes From Chemical Principles

June 8, 2026 by 38 Comments

Although parents and teachers like to point out the deep link between cooking and chemistry, most people don’t deliberately apply any chemical principles beyond acid/base reactions to their recipes. Not so [Ben Kazez]: he’s written a thorough exploration of the chemical journey to the perfect pancake, and made a calculator for others to use with their own ingredients.

The goal is to optimize the pancakes along four dimensions: interior texture (light and smooth), a tangy flavour, rise, and a crisp, brown exterior layer. The tang comes from residual acids, and since lactic acid produces the best taste, dairy-based acid sources (such as Greek yoghurt or buttermilk) are preferable. Acids also react with baking soda to release carbon dioxide, making them a part of one of the four rising agents. The other three are carbon dioxide released when double-acting baking powder is heated, steam released from the batter, and air bubbles stabilized by egg white foam.

Dairy products, besides contributing acid, also provide a protein structure to keep the interior smooth. In a normal wheat-heavy pancake, two proteins (glutenin and gliadin) interact to form tough strands of gluten. Fats bind to hydrophobic amino acids in these proteins and shorten the gluten chains, hence the name shortening. Adding ricotta cheese also replaces some of this gluten network with a smoother structure of previously-denatured dairy proteins. Dairy products also contribute to the Maillard reaction between reducing sugars (such as lactose, glucose, and fructose) and amino acids, which causes the browning of the pancake’s surface. Besides being brown, the surface should be crisp; since amylose, found in corn starch, forms a brittle, glassy, crackly network when dehydrated, corn starch was added.

The result is a set of chemical equations which can be tuned to create perfect pancakes, combined in the calculator. This summary doesn’t do justice to the depth of the research here; [Ben] also investigated optimal batter resting times, fermentation, cooking fats, cooking surfaces, and spatula properties. If all this has you interested in more about dairy proteins, check out our article on cheesemaking.

Featured image: “Buttermilk pancakes from a recipe by Darina Allen” by [Didym]. 

Warmer Ice Cream?

April 24, 2023 by 53 Comments

What if you could tweak the recipe on ice cream to keep it frozen at higher temperatures? The idea comes from massive conglomerate Unilever. Among other things, the brand owns a wide variety of ice cream brands, from Ben & Jerry’s to the Magnum and Cornetto lines. Instead of running freezers at the industry standard of -18 °C (0°F), the company is experimenting with upping the temperature to -12 °C (10 °F) instead.

First off, you’d save a lot of electricity. Thanks to the way the industry works, the company actually owns the vast majority of the three million or so display freezers that are used to sell its stock to customers. Running at a higher temperature could slash the freezer’s energy use by 20% to 30%, according to the company’s calculations. The company also estimates that the energy used by these freezers makes up around 10% of its total greenhouse gas footprint, so it’s better for the environment too.

Of course, there’s savvy commercial reasons behind the idea. Unilever had noticed its ice cream sales dropping in 2022. The company believes this was in part due to retailers unplugging their freezers earlier than usual as winter approached, due to high energy bills. If the company’s freezers aren’t humming, they’re doing less business. If shaving down the freezer’s energy use helps retailers keep them plugged in and the lights on, that’s a net bonus to the company’s bottom line. It could also make their freezers unhospitable places for rival products, giving them an edge in the marketplace.

But this is all business intrigue. Let’s instead take a deeper look at ice cream.

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