The link is light on build details, the video is merely an assembly sequence video. From the video we get there are two equal length parallel arm assemblies, supported by a pair of springs each. A gimbal at the camera mount, and a way to counter balance the weight of the camera. No way to adjust the counter balance springs for different weight of cameras that I noticed other than changing them out. All in all a professional looking final result. But personally I’d change out the spindly looking rod at the camera mount for fatter round tubing. I’ admit that’s only personal aesthetics.

Looks just like a Glidecam 4000.
http://www.advanced-pictures.com/images/Glidecam_4000_w_Vest_Med_pic.jpg

Nice build.

Yeah, but why waste money? I can’t make a DSLR that shoots HD video so buying one isn’t exactly proof that I’m Miss Moneypants or anything.

I tend to be anti-camera peripherals. I’ll justify the camera, but I can’t justify spending thousands on stuff I know I can make at home.

“It looks like it would work decently. But if you’re using one of these, chances are you have a nice SLR, and if you had the $2000 to spend on your nice SLR you could probably get another $700 for a Steadicam”

I see this kind of logic very often.

It bothers me. It’s just plain wrong. At least in the case of me and everyone I know IRL.

If you had the $2,000 for a nice SLR it’s because you’ve been saving up for quite a while and just blew it all, you don’t have anything left for excessories. End of story.
When money is earned slowly there are far better ways to spend it.

Not bad; though I do have one suggestion for Miguel if he’s reading:

Lose the handle that you added to the post.

The Steadicam works by isolating the camera’s position and, critically, angular orientation from the operator. The sled acts like a big lever, with the gimbal as the fulcrum and the camera and counterweight at the ends. Idea is that the leverage of the operator passing through the (low friction) gimbal is not enough to disturb the camera out at the end of the lever. The gimbal provides a massive mechanical *dis*advantage to any wobbles from the person carrying the unit.

The added big long handle below the post adds to that lever and returns that unwanted mechanical advantage; meaning that any wobbles at the handle will translate much easier to the camera and the final image.

As your design allows for the simple removal of the handle; I’d recommend you take it off and try controlling the sled (camera’s orientation) by holding the post – very lightly – directly, just below the gimbal. If your rig is balanced correctly, this will be the center of gravity, and the point at which you have the smallest influence over, and smallest ability to bump, the camera. This allows the physics of the system to do their magic and keep the camera steady; and gives you a point where you can control it without adding in unwanted shake.

As noted above all-thread is quite small, so you might want to consider making the post larger at least directly below the gimbal at the control point, if not overall for rigidity (=stability).
A simple tube over the all-thread locked into place with a lock-nut at each end could be a good start; and some gaff tape for grip can help also.

– Mikko

I’m suggesting take the handle off completely and try controlling the unit by holding (very lightly) the post directly, just below the gimbal.

You other hand then goes at the arm-gimbal connection, so that it doesn’t touch any of the moving parts of the gimbal.

– Mikko