Eventorbot 3D Printer

Tired of 3D printers that use t-slot construction? The Eventorbot is yet another open source 3D printer,  but it’s built out of steel and 3D printable parts. The design also aims to minimize the effect of vibrations by using a single solid frame. All of the wiring runs through the steel frame, which gives the printer a professional look.

The Eventorbot page on the RepRap wiki provides details on how to build your own, along with STL files for all the printable parts. If you want to see renders of the parts, they’re all available on Thingiverse. The material cost is $300-$500, and the assembled cost is quoted at $799.

Like many of the open source printers we’ve seen, this one uses the RepRap Mega Pololu Shield (RAMPS) to control the actuators. This is attached to a Sanguinololu motherboard, which runs the RepRap firmware.

The Eventorbot Youtube channel has a collection of videos detailing the assembly of the robot. Check out a video of a test print after the break.

Via Make

Comments

  1. chuck says:

    I really need to save up and build one of these. Feel like I’m being left out of the fun.

    • Cynyr says:

      you and me both.

    • Cynyr says:

      I wonder if there are any plans for a printer that require no printed parts, or the use of a mill. Kind of hard to get printed parts without a printer.

      Although I guess autodesk has something tied to autocad 123D (which doesn’t work on linux) where you can order a print of your part.

      • James says:

        I have this hair-brained scheme in the back of my mind to create a 3d printer (specifically I want to make a delta-bot) using scrapped 2d printers, I have a stack of old inkjet multi functions there is no shortage of them for a buck or two, they have of course some light-weight steppers, heavier weight DC motors, and nice stainless steel rods, gears, rotary and liner plastic encoding disks.

        My idea is to try and use as few parts as possible that have not be scavenged from a printer (or could conceivably have been), and to only use tools that the average person would have, a hand drill, jig saw etc.

        Even cutting the initial parts from the scaveneged plastics, eg the lid of a multifunction scanner is a nice flat bit of plastic, laminate a couple of those together for extra strength if necessary.

        Of course if I ever get around to stripping down the growing pile of “damn I can’t leave that there for a dollar” printers to do this, is another matter entirely.

      • daid303 says:

        Look on the RepRap wiki for RepStraps, which are 3D printers make without 3D printed parts.

        For example, the Ultimaker can be considered a RepStrap, as it’s made with lasercut parts. And no printed parts.

    • rkward says:

      Well, yes and no. I also do not have one but have seen plenty created by them. Yes the parts/devices work but the resolution leave a lot to be desired. I know they will get better over time and that is primarily thanks to the 3D printer craze. Still, I’m sure they are fun to play with.

      • Cynyr says:

        Could you overprint and hand finish, like you would do if it was a cast part? leave under size holes as pilots, and if a dimension was critical overprint the resolution of the printer and “machine” away the extra?

        Seems to me that I would be able to use it to make plastic parts that would otherwise require an end mill, using; it, a file, and some sandpaper.

        Making parallel bars (with any useful tolerance) would probably be hard with one though.

  2. JB says:

    I may go with this frame (can’t beat $20) when I build my 3d printer. Looks solid and it would look like it belongs next to a mill and lathe.

  3. Daniel fielding says:

    Why would it use both ramps and sanguilolu they both do the same thing

    • Kyle S. says:

      I am selling my Makerbot TOM to get one of these. Without a lasercutter I can’t really replicate my Makerbot. I can replicate my new Eventorbot.

      A batch job at the local welding shop $30-35 per cut and welded steel bracket. $300-500 a kit and I print the printed parts from the first Eventorbot.

      Compare at $200-300 for a lasercut set of Makerbot TOM frames.

      The printing speed can always be adjusted. I had my TOM from the stock 40mm/s all the way up to 160mm/s. The vibrations were way too intense at 160 and I settled for 80.

      With the steel Eventorbot frame I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t get 160mm/s easy.

    • Kyle S. says:

      Sanguino for Motherboard and I think it meant RAMPS style motor drivers.

  4. Josef Prusa says:

    Best UP! clone yet :-)

  5. gmcurrie says:

    Despite the spring-adjustable print platform, I’m guessing that getting those 90 degree welds *absolutely true* is a big issue in the build, yeah?

    • Montaray Jack says:

      It’d be a little tricky to get the Z axis square with the X-Y. Making 2 at a time you could make both square, but you need a reference flat to do that and some transfer ink like Dychem Hi-Spot. also you would need to flip one of the two, otherwise you might end up with a parallelogram. (Yeah yeah, we’re short a side for that. ;-)
      Using simple metrology like this is how I made my pair diemaker’s angle plates good within 30 millionths. NO gages needed, for the outside of the ‘L’ You need a indicator to do the inside surfaces to maintain parallelism.

      We probably don’t need millionths or microns for a reprap, a GOOD carpenters square or average machinists square should be good enough. Use the edge of the square and look for light. Bend. repeat. till its good enough. Clamp down to something, then weld. A fixture might be in order if you are going to make a bunch of the frames.

    • chango says:

      The only critical weld is at the top, and it looks like the Z axis angle relative to the Y could be adjusted by adding shims or washers at the top or bottom rod holders.

    • Montaray Jack says:

      Here’s a way to check for squareness

      Now there’s a few complaints in the comments. Keep in mind that the flip is NOT OPTIONAL.

      He is using a modified Starrett 257 surface gage with an Interrapid indicator mounted on it.

      This technique could be used with a magnetic indicator fixture, in a pinch, since those seem to be more commonly available to casual machinists.

      IDK why a feature like this isn’t standard on Starrett.
      Brown&Sharp 621’s have a ground a “V” and a radius into the front to locate against. Just drop in the right sized ballbearing to put in that “V” to use like the method described in the video, with the additional benefit of having only 1 point in contact with the surface plate and the piece being measured. (or use a dowel pin, plug gage, piece of round stock etc.

  6. soundman98 says:

    Wow this would be so cool to build once i get a 3D printer!

    Oh, wait… isn’t that a little counter-productive?

  7. d hamilton says:

    Is it me or is there a spelling error here:
    http://reprap.org/wiki/File:5.png ?

    Or is the spelling error here:

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Eventorbot

    I know, I know, your just an engineer. ;-)

  8. adammbsmith says:

    One of my buddies has one of these for his business. He actually designs components for 28mm toy soldiers using CAD, prints them on his 3D Printer and then casts them up and mass produces them in Resin. It’s becoming a really big part of toy making now.

    He also called up Geek Squad when he had technical problems and someone was able to answer all his questions over the phone. So even the tech support companies are getting on top of this stuff for domestic use.

    Maybe one day we’ll all have one…well, until the Star Trek Replicator becomes a reality :)

  9. Colecoman1982 says:

    @adammbsmith: Is Geeksquad better over there in the UK? Here is the US, Geeksquad are the tech support guys in BestBuy stores. Everything I’ve ever heard about them (and I’ve heard A LOT of people complain about them) says that they’re almost universally incompetent and massivly overcharge for the services they provide.

  10. Isotope says:

    Seems kind of slow, no? Otherwise I like the open access design and nice aesthetics of the square tubing.

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