700 lumen LED bike lamp

700_lumen_bike_lamp

We’ve seen bright bike lamps before. This one caught our eye because it needs a heat sink while in operation. [700lumenLED] built a super bright light for his bike that features an aluminum enclosure and heat sinks to protect the LEDs against overheating.  Some nice work was done incorporating the 12v battery into a bike bottle with the power switch and a dimming potentiometer attached to the bottle cap.

Comments

  1. sly says:

    now there’s a bright idea

    1st pun :D

  2. epicness says:

    Meh… Someone built a 2800 lumen light already. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=487467

  3. PDF says:

    Before instructables whiners start, here is the direct-NO-LOGIN-REQUIRED-pdf-link;

    http://www.instructables.com/pdf/700-Lumen-LED-Bike-Light/700-Lumen-LED-Bike-Light.pdf

    I submitted instructions in obtaining PDF URL just from the article URL for any Instructables articles to Hack-a-day, I guess they didn’t like it.

  4. tz says:

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14413

    Brighter and easier. Remove the reflector if you want a flood.

    8.4v works, like 2 LiPos, or a Nimh “9v” (1.2 x 7).

    Actually anything from just under 5 to 8.4 volts works, but it requires enough current, and will deplete batteries very quickly.

  5. tony says:

    I used that same LED tz, and built a custom current driver using an lm3401. the thing will project a beam 300 yards. need to get a proper lens on it, but i’m good with electronics, not optics.

    http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee334/ajm8127/DIY%20Bike%20Light/00001-640×480.jpg

  6. roy says:

    i thought leds didnt get hot

  7. dielectric says:

    @roy:
    power leds get really hot, but out the “back” side. some high-power led designs use some thermal feedback to keep the operating point sane, others just throw a big heat sink on it and let ‘em go.

  8. Man On Fire says:

    that’s not really a potentiometer, looks like he’s using a pre-packaged PWM module.

    /at least i hope he is.

  9. Jason Knight says:

    With only R2’s, that’s only marginally better than my 3x Q5 setup – but I would suspect that the use of just lenses with no reflector backing means the cast and fullbrights aren’t as useful with much of the energy wasted – especially given the existing lens on the bulbs. Brute force instead of finesse.

    Though I’m planning on my next build using R2’s, but I’m going with this reflector:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18842

    Probably go with the same pucks I did for my existing unit:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

    Just like my existing unit I’ll do one puck per bulb and put copper VGA ramsinks directly on the base of each bulb. I like the 14mm base DX has for the Q5’s.
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11023

    I’ve looked at the R2 on a premium star, but my parkinsons ridden hands aren’t up for cutting things down anymore – and really I don’t consider the 2-3% brightness difference to be worth the 20% price hike.

  10. Rob says:

    @dielectric:
    I’m not disagreeing at all with what you’re saying I just wanted to note that with enough output you can actually feel some heat from LEDs out the front as well. I built a custom light a year or so ago that puts out around 800 emitter-lumens and you can feel some heat from that radiating out the front. Nothing even remotely close to an incandescent though (I managed to burn a hole in my TV with a custom incandescent I built which turned itself on when I wasn’t around, whooops)

  11. pdf says:

    Looks like Instructables closed down no login pdf link access. You may resume whining.

  12. Xiejol says:

    I’ve wondered why I haven’t seen more bright LED projects on hackaday. Check out candlepowerforums.com for some good info.

    My light setup for my bike is a Marwi P7 conversion that puts out around 700 lumens. I don’t need an external heatsink, the one inside moves all the heat to the body. While stopped it gets hot quick, I have to dim it until I get moving.

  13. JD says:

    If one was to take a microcontroller and create a stobing circuit with this set up, one could find out the frequency of the stop lights around town with a few adjustments. :-) However, I hear it’s not highly suggested.

  14. Wwhat says:

    Intructables has really gone down in my view with all their forcing people to sign up and log in for more and more functions (although I understand the PDF being users only).
    I used to have that site in my quicklinks but no more, you can’t even see the secondary small pictures without logging in.
    It’s a pity, and an affront to people that submitted articles when he were more reasonable, but it shows that you should never put too much money on a single horse eh.

  15. TalkingJazz says:

    Quite nicely put together, although i’m not sure that using a heatsink is anything new with high power LED’s. I’e been seeing cheep 20w modules floating around on ebay quite a lot recently. Has anyone had any luck with these?

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