Simple Xbox 360 Rapid Fire Mod

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/v/Gjzm1A5-GMk&w=470]

Back in May we mentioned AcidMods’ spitfire mod that enabled rapid fire (amongst other things) and was undetectable by Xbox Live. The parts list was quite low, needing just a PIC16F84A and a few other components, which led to third parties selling controller mod kits on eBay. The AcidMods team has figured out a new way to enable rapid fire using just a momentary switch and the necessary wire to hook it up. All you need to do is wire in the switch between the ground on the controller LED and the middle pin on the trigger. The only caveat is that because it’s hardwired to the LED, you can only use the mod on the particular port you’re using the controller on.

The reason it’s so simple is because the Xbox 360 controller uses pulse width modulation to “dim” the LED on the controller, creating a rapid high/low signal. When the momentary button is depressed, it routes this rapid high/low signal to the trigger input on the controller, which is then input to the Xbox 360. Hit the read link for a couple more videos explaining this hack.

While this modification is undetectable by Xbox Live, it does create an unfair advantage in multiplayer gaming and could result in your account being banned.

[via Xbox-Scene]

Related: Xbox 360 Hacks, Xbox Hacks

166 thoughts on “Simple Xbox 360 Rapid Fire Mod

  1. It’s legit but it only works for the old style (matrix) wireless controllers using a powersupply/batteries with less than 3.0 volts in them and is really only effective for Call of Duty (I know.)

    Or you can get the much more reliable/universal pic’s from his store for $8. http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/index.php?cPath=30
    This is still “only” useful for COD. Might improve your aim in Halo a bit…whatever

    1. You have most likely installed a “Closed” push button instead of an “Open” button. Closed switches will disconnect when pressed. Open switches will connect when pressed.

  2. got one for ya… I did the mod and it works wonderfull. That is when the controller stays synced. Any ideas why after 1 to 3 min the controller looses sync with the xbox. resyncs, works, looses sync… it just keeps repeating that pattern.

    1. To make sure this works open your controller and see if there is a resistor(looks like a oval shaped crystal thingy) right in the middle on the front of your controller if it does not it will only shoot one shot instead of rapid fire.

  3. I tried this worked fine, then updated xbox 360 to new firmware from xbox live, now it doesnt work at all, looked inside controller all is ok, and shorting out doesnt work, do we think micro have put a patch in to stop this?

  4. So you can only do this mod with the old version that says…TB-1 by where the battery pack is of the new ones with the resistor or whatever it is on the front of the motherboard??

  5. hey i got a sleeper mod for crismas and i played with it for about 30 minutes and then i think it may be either shorting out or the trigger gets stuck. but idk. so now if i let it sit for a little while it works for about 5 mmin when i use it and then it starts auto-matically shooting and then when i hit the sync button to turn it off i cant use the trigger but it kinda does some single shots. if u know wats wrong with it PM me at:pwningscape@hotmail.com
    ty

  6. look this is really simple mod i did it today took a while cus my soilderin iron is shit how ever all u do is soldier first wire to a pin under the b button there is three pins all under another soilder this to the middle 1 next wire must be soildered literaly on the first player light just at the bottom of the led where it connects to the contoler this mod will only work if the controller is not a d10 controler u can find this out by looking next the 1st player led it shud say d21 or sumin just not d10 and only works on wireless controllers sorry for the shit spelling hope this helps

  7. Ok can someone please tell me what kind of screew driver I need to open the controller
    And also the name of the wires and button
    Also where I can get them
    And finally, where to I solder them?

  8. You will need a size 9 Security Torx to remove the screws. It is shaped like a star with a hole in it. Look at the screws on the back of your controller you will see what it should look like. If buying one make sure its long enuf to get in there, dont buy the little hex bit type.

    The switch just needs to be a Push-to-make, the smaller the better, I got mine from Maplin £0.99.

    If you look below the A B buttons you will see 3 little points sticking out, quite close together. U need to solder 1 wire to the middle one. Now find the Player 1 LED(the 1 that lights up the quadrant on your controller), little tiny and yellowish in colour. You need to solder the other wire to the lower part of it(Good Luck:). Now solder your switch to these 2 wires, power up and fingers crossed.

  9. if you have to use this to get an edge in cod your a fuckin noob. How about if you cant play like the rest of us dont play huh? Its funny bc every time i run into you modded controller nubs i own you like you never had it…if you need or want this your the biggest vagina i know of

  10. this actually only works with the new controllers not the old ones. the new ones have a resistor on it and you need that. it is a small silver box on you circuit board on the front side right in the middle. cant miss it.

  11. ok just to clairified some things, i got the new controler(the one with the CG board/wireless)and a second one (with wire and the Matrix board).
    Wich one i should use and is it possible this work with the new one??(CG board, because i rather have a wireless one)and a last question is this still wor with the new NXE??
    Pls help and sorry for the miss-spelling

    1. LM555 (the standard 555 timer) isn’t programmable. There are ways to mod a controller using a 555 timer with supporting circuitry. You’ll also have to determine the proper RC constant to match the frequency you want to output. I believe pin 2 and 7 will have to be tied using a resistor. More investigation would be required on the pin-out.

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