Basically, Galvanizing Metal Without Acid

As useful as steel and iron are to the modern world, their tendency to rust is a major downside. There’s a spectrum of ways to prevent it, from quickly slapping on a coat of paint to alloying, chromizing, or physical vapor deposition. For a middle ground accessible to the home shop, galvanizing is a go-to method of rust prevention that deposits a layer of zinc onto the metal instead, but even this generally involves the use of strong acids. This method makes galvanizing accessible without any acids. (Spoiler alert: substitute strong bases.)

Although the acids are omitted, the solution is caustic, so similar safety measures are still advised. The first step in the process is to dissolve sodium hydroxide into a container of distilled water. Metallic zinc can then be dissolved in the solution, with a bit of sugar and liquid soap to improve the finished quality of the coating. An electric current is applied to the solution, using a graphite plate at the anode and the part to be electroplated as the cathode. After some time, the part will be uniformly coated in a layer of zinc, which can then be brightened in a solution of only-mildly-acidic citric acid if needed.

One of the benefits of using a strong base to galvanize a metal part, beyond the preference of avoiding strong acids, is that this process can be better at plating parts that are non-uniform in shape, so things with deep crevices or other odd shapes that might coat unevenly in acid. If there’s a preference for electroplating with acid, there are some ways of producing one’s own using various methods.

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Metal Plating Plastic Or Metal Parts

Like most of us, [Clem] wants to 3D print in metal. Metal 3D printers do exist, but they are generally way out of reach for most of us garage hackers. As an alternative, [Clem] uses a homebrew electroplating system to get prints with a metallic coating.

The setup is quite simple. Small glass jars to act as the plating tanks and the machine uses an Arduino controller along with a PCB to hold things like a relay to control the 24V used for electroplating. To keep everything tidy, [Clem] designed a 3D printed box that stores all the cables and chemicals when you aren’t using them. Since the parts might get hot, the plastic is PETG.

The trick is that parts need to be conductive in order to use electroplating — typically plastic isn’t conductive. [Clem] paints the plastic parts to grant them conductivity. Graphite paint didn’t give great results. However, an iron-based paint worked better but obscures detail on the print. In addition to galvanization (plating with zinc or steel) you can see copper plating of a nail at around the 12 minute mark, with a plastic plating demo a minute later. The machine can even plate gold using an expensive gold-bearing electrolyte. In the video comments, someone also mentioned that it would be interesting to try plating conductive filament without using the paint. [Clem] tried to remove rust from a big part, but the power supply wasn’t up to the task.

Copper plating is often used as a step to make a part conductive so you can then plate with another metal. In addition to copper sulfate, you can use copper acetate. Sometimes, getting metal into fine details can be tough and it is easier to use a pen to plate those areas directly.

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