We’ve always found the various methods for adding text and graphics to 3D prints somewhat underwhelming. Embossed or debossed characters are fuzzy, at best, and multi-color printers always seem to bleed one color into the next. Still, the need for labels and logos is common enough that it’s worth exploring other methods, such as this easy toner transfer trick.
Home PCB makers will probably find the method [Squalius] describes in the video below very familiar, and with good reason. We’ve seen toner transfer used to mask PCBs before etching, and the basic process here is very similar. It starts with printing the desired graphics on regular paper using a laser printer; don’t forget to mirror the print. The printed surface is scuffed up a bit, carefully cleaned, and coated with a thick layer of liquid acrylic medium, of the kind used in paint pouring. The mirrored print is carefully laid on the acrylic, toner-side down, and more medium is brushed on the back of the paper. After the print dries, the paper is removed with a little water and some gentle friction, leaving the toner behind. A coat of polyurethane protects the artwork reasonably well.
[Squalius] has tested the method with PLA and PETG and reports good results. The text is clear and sharp, and even fine text and dithered graphics look pretty good. Durability could be better, and [Squalius] is looking for alternative products that might work better for high-wear applications. It looks like it works best on lightly textured surfaces, too, as opposed to surfaces with layer lines. We’d love to see if color laser prints work, too; [Squalius] says that’s in the works, and we’ve seen examples before that are reason for optimism.
Thanks to [greg_bear] for the tip.
Its so easy to order durable full color high res UV DTF transfers its hard to bother with less than results from a hacked together solution these days. $18 gets you 6 inches by 22 inches in ~3-5 days.
I’m not sure about your side of the pond, but over here I can get a bottle of acrylic medium and a can of pu-varnish for less than the equivalent of $18, which will probably still last me longer than a sheet of 15x56cm, so despite its limitations it’s not a bad deal. And being able to print it at will is pretty valuable when prototyping.
The print at will aspect is invaluable imo.
Of course you might run out of suitable paper and have to resort to glossy mags, and if you run out of toner you can still buy a DIY refill for very cheap.
This is super handy
Lower price for lower quality and lower durability.
As for the value when prototyping, I dont know what world your living in that 3-5 days is going to make or break your prototype deadline, but youre clearly too budget conscious to bother mentioning the price of next day services.
I dont have frequent enough need to justify doing an aliexpress epson UV conversion to run the AB film myself, so we just use a POD service when the need arises. At $18 for 6×22 $26 for 12X22 $38 for 24X22 $77 for 60X22 delivered Ive always managed to turn a profit while keeping ALL the transfers I want/need.
In any case, awareness of the availability of professional level transfers and the tech that surrounds it is worthwhile mention IMO.
The point is that you can do this with common home materials, which is why it’s a hack.
Sometimes you just need to get something done. I learned something new today and I’m glad for the article and video. I’m also glad you mentioned UV DTF because I had no idea what that was either. No need to put down their efforts to spread knowledge.
Agreed. Reading his comments, I was waiting the entire time for him to put his website where he sells these transfers or something. I think this is a cool hack and being able to do it yourself is invaluable. It’s similar to a process many artists do on projects and artists, especially these days, need to save money anywhere we can. Keep spreading that knowledge.
@S James
I dont know where you got that idea as I made it quite clear that I dont have a printer capable SO I USE A SERVICE.
I didnt even plug which services Ive used nor prefer.
The article cited issues (durability and application issues) and ambitions (color) that are already solved with the application of UV DTF, understanding that its still not widely known, and that its relatively cheap, fast, and painless to outsource, I shared what I knew since “[Squalius] is looking for alternative products that might work better for high-wear applications. ”
Need to save money anywhere you can?
There are people on etsy and ebay “selling custom UV DTF” that are just reselling the extra space on their own POD ordered films. So you can certainly find cheaper than I pay in total, though youll lose even more time in the process.
Expense is of little concern to me as I end up 2-4X ahead once we’ve sold off the art on the sheet, leaving me with whatever transfers I keep for my own projects FREE.
I know a dozen or more ways to DIY PCBs but lets face it, these days its more practical to just hit send and wait for delivery. Its hard to bother with less than results from a hacked together solution these days. This matter is no different.
Define ‘full colour’ as I’ve done this with a colour laser before (well same concept different transfer method), but colour lasers do tend to be just 3 colour mixing, so good but perhaps not good enough for your needs. Still the end results are pretty darn durable and look good – cost of pennies for an instant result that keeps the project moving is hard to argue with.
You can always order in and wait the week as well if you really think that end result is worth it as well, but now you didn’t have to wait, or spend a fortune for rapid processing and have a result that lets your prototyping move forward.
Full Colour in UV DTF is generally setup as CMYK+WW+2 channels of varnish 1440X1440 dpi max resolution. When doing complex designs with multiple small isolated sections a varnish layer can bridge the elements together into a single application decal. Some service providers can print on special A films like prism holofoil, or metallics. This allows you to use varnish bridging to bring those effects over selectively. When you print multiple designs on a large sheet anywhere where there is no ink nor varnish comes to you as naked carrier B film.
We used to scissor cut the gang sheets but switched to a brother scan n cut machine last summer, which is pretty much an upgraded cricut.
Ive done waterslide decals, rub on decals, and even a little direct to object printing. I find UV DTF far easier and quicker to get clean application even on relatively complex surfaces. I wish I could justify having my own machine, between myself and my artist daughter, we just dont turn enough film to warrant the expense of bringing it inhouse. Maybe someday Ill find a cheap/broken second hand unit on the bay but for now Im happy ordering in. YMMV
I had no idea those were so cheap and readily available. That could be very useful. Thank you!
Ha. I just watched this the other day and was going to send it in.
Waterslide decals could be an interesting alternative, those are printable on inkjet or laser, provided you don’t need to print white colour. They (or at least most of them) melt if you treat them with nitro thinner and stick to the base as if glued. I’ve never tried this with self-printed decals, though, but with the professionally printed ones it works like magic so it might be worth a try. Beware that nitro application should be done very carefully to not smear the paint, preferably with an airbrush, in short bursts and one small bit of the surface at a time so that the bit melts and dries immediately (nitro evaporates very quickly). An ordinary small brush also works provided you do a single dab, and then pause for it to dry before the next one. Make sure not to create puddles, a kind of a semi-dry technique is the best way. I did this with scale models and the decal can even be treated with sandpaper afterwards to blend it in. Of course, a layer of varnish on top of it will probably make it more durable if it’s supposed come in contact with fingers, but may even be unnecessary. I’m not sure which varnish would be best, I think I would try with either nitrocellulose (that one should be tough as nails), or alcohol based acrylics (which is probably healthier). Or maybe polyurethane, but in a thicker layer?
doing a UV conversion to an epson printer to do UVDTF permastickers is only reasonable if youve got serious frequent need but fortunately you can find them pretty cheap from POD sites. They give excellent resolution, color, and durability.
Creative juices flowing… being a laserjet repair tech.. it’s not too hard to have a print bypass the fuser, leaving your toner not yet adhered to the paper, but if you’re careful, it sticks enough to get to the transfer part fairly easily… I need to try this…
If you can find a printer model where you can selectively toggle that concept without the printer complaining with only reasonable modifications that would be awesome. Assuming the toner stays stuck well enough unfused and works out well for end results – I only want one printer, but toner transfer is actually a good proportion of what I print.
That said never had any real problems transferring it back off the paper after fusing, but also never tried it on 3d prints yet – not sure if my preferred iron on method would be a problem or not, the toner seems like it transfers well at a temperature low enough I’m not sure even PLA would be that bothered – leave the PLA in contact with the iron too long it will be softening at least, but it only takes a quick swipe under a bit of pressure to get the toner transfered. The heat getting into the PLA itself would probably not get into the problem range in that time (though I don’t print in PLA for anything personally – ABS’s solvent welding, vapour smoothing and mechanical properties make it my default).
There is a toner transfer subreddit that uses overhead transparencies and then prints on those to skip the rough “remove the paper but not the toner” problem. If you print hot enough, the toner fuses to the pla/petg and you don’t even have to seal it.
I wonder if just disabling the heater on the fuser would work. Would the fuser roller disturb the toner on the paper if cold?
I wonder if mod podge would stick to filament. Only time I’ve ever done the honor transfer trick was to wood using mod podge
This article describes using regular paper, but I have some ‘toner transfer paper’ specifically for PCB masking. I’ll have to try that.
Also, don’t use ‘regular’ paper. Glossy photo paper, or glossy magazine paper works best.
What an incredible hack! So useful and if you already have access to a laser printer all you need is the acrylic medium! Love it.
The same process works for pigment inkjet printers, like the epson durabrite inks. It’s a common method for making decorative prints on wood. I recal people using diluted clear pva glue for both the binder and the varnish – though on a white surface it may turn noticeably yellow over time and may not stick to all plastics.
The whole point for HackADay is sharing the knowledge of hacking. If all your solutions are just pay $X to get Y, then just buy everything and no hacking needed. Just my 2¢.