Game Boy PCB Assembled With Low-Cost Tools

As computers have gotten smaller and less expensive over the years, so have their components. While many of us got our start in the age of through-hole PCBs, this size reduction has led to more and more projects that need the use of surface-mount components and their unique set of tools. These tools tend to be more elaborate than what would be needed for through-hole construction but [Tobi] has a new project that goes into some details about how to build surface-mount projects without breaking the bank.

The project here is interesting in its own right, too: a display module upgrade for the classic Game Boy based on an RP2350B microprocessor. To get all of the components onto a PCB that actually fits into the original case, though, surface-mount is required. For that [Tobi] is using a small USB-powered hotplate to reflow the solder, a Pinecil, and a healthy amount of flux. The hotplate is good enough for a small PCB like this, and any solder bridges can be quickly cleaned up with some extra flux and a quick pass with a soldering iron.

The build goes into a lot of detail about how a process like this works, so if you’ve been hesitant to start working with surface mount components this might be a good introduction. Not only that, but we also appreciate the restoration of the retro video game handheld complete with some new features that doesn’t disturb the original look of the console. One of the other benefits of using the RP2350 for this build is that it’s a lot simpler than using an FPGA, but there are perks to taking the more complicated route as well.

13 thoughts on “Game Boy PCB Assembled With Low-Cost Tools

        1. I have the same hotplate and it can’t get beyond 260°C, so I end up with burned flux and unflowed solder. Mine might be defective but it is certainly SHIT.

          1. There’s a type of paste with a lower melting point – it starts melting at around 140 °C. You can run it on a reflow profile with a peak temperature of 210–220 °C. Honestly, I think the plate is pretty good value. I like my MHP50, but the cheap one actually did a great job.

          2. I use leaded solder paste and by the time plate reaches target 190°C everything is already soldered (stars to melt at around 120).

            There is something wrong with my unit though, it sometimes scrambles the display until it cools down. But for the price it’s worth it.

          3. There is a very good reason these things are explicitly sold as “preheaters” and not reflow plates. You’re still expected to use hot-air from above to hit the actual reflow temp.

    1. I stand amazed. Both at the RPi foundation for producing this chip, and supplying usable documentation and tools. And [Tobi] for the stellar project. The game detection and excellent work to find a proper screen with suitable aspect ratio is top notch work. He is making me hope this is sold as a kit at some point. Also sad I have sold or given away my DMG. The color pallete idea was super cool. I am assuming I will see a Macho Nacho version of this soon.

      Curious if this would be applicable to other systems, or could be used to make one’s own bespoke console, possibly inside a replacement GBA shell for example.

      1. Yeah, especially the pico-sdk is super high quality compared to all other microcontroller vendor libraries out there. It’s not perfect, but compared to the crap that ST and others ship, it is awesome and really well designed.

    2. I know what you mean. It’s useful but feels so wrong same time.
      The typical HaD audience (US Americans) probably feels no regret aslong as cost-benefit-radio is okay.
      But to me, as a foolish, romantic European, it hurts a bit.
      See, all the sophisticated technology has to do slave labor for such a primitive task.
      It’s like dedicating a whole Pentium 4 computer running a sophisticated OS with billions of lines of code.. to just make an LED blink.
      Cool, but so wrong! All the ingeniousity of human mind goes down the drain for such a basic task,
      that could have been done with a blinker relays, an NE555 or a vintage blinking incandescent lamp.

    3. I think there’s another layer of irony here. It’s not the dual M33 cores that make this possible – it’s the PIO unit, which is limited to just 10 instructions ;) Most of the work is actually done by the peripherals.

Leave a Reply

Please be kind and respectful to help make the comments section excellent. (Comment Policy)

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.