Head To Print Head: CNC Vs FDM

It’s a question new makers often ask: “Should I start with a CNC machine or a 3D Printer?”– or, once you have both, every project gets the question “Should I use my CNC or 3D printer?” — and the answer is to both is, of course, “it depends”. In the video embedded below by [NeedItMakeIt] you can see a head-to-head comparison for one specific product he makes, CRATER, a magnetic, click-together stacking tray for tabletop gaming. (He says tabletop gaming, but we think these would be very handy in the shop, too.)

[NeedItMakeIt] takes us through the process for both FDM 3D Printing in PLA, and CNC Machining the same part in walnut. Which part is nicer is absolutely a matter of taste; we can’t imagine many wouldn’t chose the wood, but de gustibus non disputandum est–there is no accounting for taste. What there is accounting for is the materials and energy costs, which are both surprising– that walnut is cheaper than PLA for this part is actually shocking, but the amount of power needed for dust collection is something that caught us off guard, too.

Of course the process is the real key, and given that most of the video follows [NeedItMakeIt] crafting the CNC’d version of his invention, the video gives a good rundown to any newbie just how much more work is involved in getting a machined part ready for sale compared to “take it off the printer and glue in the magnets.” (It’s about 40 extra minutes, if you want to skip to the answer.) As you might expect, labour is by far the greatest cost in producing these items if you value your time, which [NeedItMakeIt] does in the spreadsheet he presents at the end.

What he does not do is provide an answer, because in the case of this part, neither CNC or 3D Printing is “better”. It’s a matter of taste– which is the great thing about DIY. We can decide for ourselves which process and which end product we prefer. “There is no accounting for taste”, de gustibus non disputandum est, is true enough that it’s been repeated since Latin was a thing. Which would you rather, in this case? CNC or 3D print? Perhaps you would rather 3D Print a CNC? Or have one machine to do it all? Let us know in the comments for that sweet, sweet engagement.

While you’re engaging, maybe drop us a tip, while we offer our thanks to [Al] for this one.

12 thoughts on “Head To Print Head: CNC Vs FDM

  1. In my shop, the fact that FDM has basically zero set-up is why my 3D printer gets used more. Wood can be pretty cheap, but you’ll need to store it somewhere, cut it up into router or laser cutter sized pieces, workholding, maybe make some kind of fixture if you need to do both sides, etc. Very worth doing if you want to make more than a few of them, but I usually don’t.

    1. Best part is the cleanup.

      No sawdust or swarf to sweep up. No having to put away all the bits, blades, clamps, and other odds and ends needed for the job. At worst you have a few chunks of support to throw away.

    1. a 3D printer for various non-food projects. and a potter’s wheel and kiln for food safe projects. (takes a fair bit of skill, which I do not have yet. But people have managed to figure it out for thousands of years so it can’t be that difficult).
      And for food safe things I’d make out of wood rather than clay, like a cutting board, I don’t need a CNC router.

  2. 2.5D and larger parts (larger than can fit on a 3D print bed) a cnc router is probably the right choice. Complex 3D shapes where a router can’t reach (easily) and fits within the build space or can be printed in parts a 3D printer can be the better choice.
    Then for strength of wood or metal if the router can handle it might be a factor. Or of flexibility is key, or strength not an issue the 3D printer.

    I have both, and use the CNC more often as I make larger parts or parts that need strength. I use the 3D printer for very small parts which are more difficult or impractical to make on the cnc router. Speakers, cabinets, steel parts etc. are best suited for a CNC router/mill. Small adaptors for mating stuff together, protective rings for wires against metal holes etc I use the 3D printer. Or a complex shape of a lamp holder 3D printed, with a CNC routed back plate with threaded holes for strength and compactness to go on a goose neck.

  3. I design and build engines and machines. Threaded parts have to be done in metal and machine cut wherever strength and precision are needed.

    DMLS (laser sintered metal) however, allows for blind holes, especially for captive springs that cannot easily be done via CNC and which would require through holes if CNC were used.

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