Internet-Connected Consoles Are Retro Now, And That Means Problems

A long time ago, there was a big difference between PC and console gaming. The former often came with headaches. You’d fight with drivers, struggle with crashes, and grow ever more frustrated dealing with CD piracy checks and endless patches and updates. Meanwhile, consoles offered the exact opposite experience—just slam in a cartridge, and go!

That beautiful feature fell away when consoles joined the Internet. Suddenly there were servers to sign in to and updates to download and a whole bunch of hoops to jump through before you even got to play a game. Now, those early generations of Internet-connected consoles are becoming retro, and that’s introduced a whole new set of problems now the infrastructure is dying or dead. Boot up and play? You must be joking!

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How To Build Good Contact Mics

We’re most familiar with sound as vibrations that travel through the atmosphere around us. However, sound can also travel through objects, too! If you want to pick it up, you’d do well to start with a contact mic. Thankfully, [The Sound of Machines] has a great primer on how to build one yourself. Check out the video below.

The key to the contact mic is the piezo disc. It’s an element that leverages the piezoelectric effect, converting physical vibration directly into an electrical signal. You can get them in various sizes; smaller ones fit into tight spaces, while larger ones perform better across a wider frequency range.

[The Sound of Machines] explains how to take these simple piezo discs and solder them up with connectors and shielded wire to make them into practical microphones you can use in the field. The video goes down to the bare basics, so even if you’re totally new to electronics, you should be able to follow along. It also covers how to switch up the design to use two piezo discs to deliver a balanced signal over an XLR connector, which can significantly reduce noise.

There’s even a quick exploration of creative techniques, such as building contact mics with things like bendable arms or suction cups to make them easier to mount wherever you need them. A follow-up explores the benefits of active amplification. The demos in the video are great, too. We hear the sound of contact mics immersed in boiling water, pressed up against cracking spaghetti, and even dunked in a pool. It’s all top stuff.

These contact mics are great for all kinds of stuff, from recording foley sounds to building reverb machines out of trash cans and lamps.

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Shoot Instax Film In A Polaroid Camera With The Aid Of Tape

Polaroid cameras have been very popular for a very long time and are especially hot gifts this year. Fresh film is easy to find but relatively expensive. In contrast, Fuji’s Instax line of instant film and cameras aren’t as well established, but the film is easy to find and cheap. You might like to shoot cheap Instax film in your Polaroid camera. Thankfully, [Nick LoPresti] figured out how to do just that.

You can’t just slam an Instax cassette in an old Polaroid camera and expect it to work. The films are completely different sizes, and there’s no way they will feed properly through the camera’s mechanisms at all. Instead, you have to get manual about things. [Nick] starts by explaining the process of removing Instax film sheets from a cassette, which must be done without exposure to light if you want the film to remain useful. Then, if you know what you’re doing, you can tape it in place behind the lens of an old-school Polaroid camera, and expose it as you would any other shot. The chemistry is close enough that you’ll have a fair chance of getting something with passable exposure.

Once exposed, you have to develop the film. Normally, a Polaroid camera achieves this by squeezing the film sheet out through rollers to release the developer and start the process. Without being able to rely on the camera’s autofeed system, you need to find an alternative way to squeeze out the chemicals and get the image to develop. [Nick] recommends a simple kitchen rolling pin, while noting that you might struggle with some uneven chemical spread across the sheet. Ultimately, it’s a fussy hack, but it does work. It might only be worthwhile if you’ve got lots of Instax film kicking around and no other way to shoot it.

Instant cameras can seem a little arcane, but they’re actually quite simple to understand once you know how they’re built. You can even 3D print one from scratch if you’re so inclined. Video after the break.

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Cheap 3D Printer Becomes CNC Wood Engraver

3D printers are built for additive manufacturing. However, at heart, they are really just simple CNC motion platforms, and can be readily repurposed to other tasks. As [Arseniy] demonstrates, it’s not that hard to take a cheap 3D printer and turn it into a viable wood engraver.

The first attempt involved a simple experiment—heating the 3D printer nozzle, and moving it into contact with a piece of wood to see if it could successfully leave a mark. This worked well, producing results very similar to a cheap laser engraving machine. From there, [Arseniy] set about fixing the wood with some simple 3D-printed clamps so it wouldn’t move during more complex burning/engraving tasks. He also figured out a neat trick to simply calibrate the right Z height for wood burning by using the built in calibration routines. Further experiments involved developing a tool for creating quality G-Code for these engraving tasks, and even using the same techniques on leather with great success.

If you need to mark some patterns on wood and you already have a 3D printer, this could be a great way to go. [Arseniy] used it to great effect in the production of a plywood dance pad. We’ve featured some other great engraver builds over the years, too, including this innovative laser-based project. Video after the break.

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Windmill Desk Lamp Is Beautifully Soothing

Typically, lamps provide a stationary source of light to illuminate a given area and help us see what we’re doing. However, they can also be a little more artistic and eye-catching, like this windmill lamp from [Huy Vector].

It’s somewhat of a charming desk toy, constructed out of copper wire soldered into the form of a traditional windmill. At its base, lives a simple motor speed controller, while up top, a brushed DC gearmotor is responsible for turning the blades. As you might imagine, it’s a little tricky to get power to flow to the LED filaments installed on those blades while they happen to be rotating. That’s where the build gets tricky, using the output shaft of the motor’s gear drive and a custom slip ring to pass power to the LEDs. That power comes courtesy of a pair of 16340 lithium-ion cells, which can be juiced up with the aid of a USB-C charger board.

It’s an elegant build, and rather charming to watch in motion to boot. We love a good lamp build here at Hackaday, particularly when they’re aesthetically beautiful.

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Nostalgic Camera Is A Mashup Of Analog Video Gear

These days, you get a fantastic camera with the purchase of just about any modern smartphone. [Abe] missed some of the charm of earlier, lower-quality digital cameras, though, and wanted to recreate that experience. The way forward was obvious. He built a nostalgic digital video camera from scratch!

[Abe] figured he could build the entire project around analog gear, and then simply find a way to store the video digitally, thus creating the effect he was looking for. To that end, the build is based around a small analog video camera that’s intended for use with FPV drones. It runs on 5 to 20 volts and outputs a simple composite video signal. This makes it easy to display its output on a small LCD screen, originally intended to be used with an automotive reversing camera. These were both paired with a mini video recorder module from RunCam, which can capture composite video and store it on a microSD card in 640 x 480 resolution.

These parts were quickly lashed together, with the camera sending its output to the RunCam video recorder module, which then passed it on to the screen. Everything worked as expected, so [Abe] moved on to implementing an on-screen display using the MAX7456 chip, which is built specifically for this purpose. It overlays text on the video feed to the screen as commanded by an RP2040 microcontroller. Once that was all working, [Abe] just had to provide a battery power supply and wrap everything up in a nice retro-styled case. Then, at the last minute, the separate camera and recorder modules were replaced by a TurboWing module that combined both into one.

The result is a nifty-looking camera that produces grainy, slurry, old-school digital video. If you love 640 x 480 as a resolution, you’ll dig this. It’s got strong 90s camcorder vibes, and that’s a very good thing.

We love a good custom camera around these parts, especially those that offer deliciously high resolution. If you’re building your own, be sure to let us know. Video after the break.

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Interactive Hopscotch Tiles Make The Game More Exciting

Hopscotch is a game usually played with painted lines or with the aid of a bit of chalk. However, if you desire fancier equipment, you might like the interactive hopscotch setup from [epatell].

The build uses yoga mats as the raw material to create each individual square of the hopscotch board. The squares all feature simple break-beam light sensors that detect when a foot lands in the given space. These sensors are monitored by a Raspberry Pi Pico in each square. In turn, the Pico lights up addressable NeoPixel LED strips in response to the current position of the player.

It’s a simple little project which makes a classic game just a little more fun. It’s also a great learning project if you’re trying to get to grips with things like microcontrollers and addressable LEDs in an educational context. We’d love to see the project taken a step further, perhaps with wirelessly-networked squares that can communicate and track the overall game state, or enable more advanced forms of play.

Meanwhile, if you’re working on updating traditional playground games with new technology, don’t hesitate to let us know!