Using A Potato As Photographic Recording Surface

Following in the tracks of unconventional science projects, [The Thought Emporium] seeks to answer the question of whether you can use a potato as a photograph recording medium. This is less crazy than it sounds, as ultimately analog photographs (and photograms) is about inducing a light-based change in some kind of medium, which raises the question of whether there is anything about potatoes that is light-sensitive enough to be used for capturing an image, or what we can add to make it suitable.

Unfortunately, a potato by itself cannot record light as it is just starch and salty water, so it needs a bit of help. Here [The Thought Emporium] takes us through the history of black and white photography, starting with a UV-sensitive mixture consisting out of turmeric and rubbing alcohol. After filtration and staining a sheet of paper with it, exposing only part of the paper to strong UV light creates a clear image, which can be intensified using a borax solution. Unfortunately this method fails to work on a potato slice.

The next attempt was to create a cyanotype, which involves covering a surface in a solution of 25 g ferric ammonium oxalate, 10 g of potassium ferricyanide and 100 mL water and exposing it to UV light. This creates the brilliant blue that gave us the term ‘blueprint’. As it turns out, this method works really well on potato slices too, with lots of detail, but the exposure process is very slow.

Speeding up cyanotype production is done by spraying the surface with an ammonium oxalate and oxalic acid solution to modify the pH, exposing the surface to UV, and then spraying it with a 10 g / 100 mL potassium ferricyanide solution, leading to fast exposure and good details.

This is still not as good on paper as an all-time favorite using silver-nitrate, however. These silver prints are the staple of black and white photography, with the silver halide reacting very quickly to light exposure, after which a fixer, like sodium thiosulfate, can make the changes permanent. When using cyanotype or silver-nitrate film like this in a 35 mm camera, it does work quite well too, but of course creates a negative image, that requires inverting, done digitally in the video, to tease out the recorded image.

Here the disappointment for potatoes hit, as using the developer with potatoes was a soggy no-go. Ideally a solution like that used with direct positive paper that uses a silver solution suspended in a gel, but creates a positive image unlike plain silver-nitrate. As for the idea of using the potato itself as the camera, this was also briefly attempted to by using a pinhole in a potato and a light-sensitive recording surface on the other side, but the result did indeed look like a potato was used to create the photograph.

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3D Printing Blueprints And Other Wall Art

Today if you want to reproduce a big schematic or a mechanical drawing, you just ask it to print or plot from the CAD model. But back in the day, you drew on big sheets at a drafting table. How do you make copies? Sure, there were a few large-format copiers, but they were expensive. A more common method was to use a heliographic copier which, often but not always, resulted in a blueprint — that is a blue page with white lines or vice versa. These days, you are more likely to see a blueprint as an artistic wall hanging, and since [Basement Creations] wanted some, he figured out how to make them with a 3D printer.

These prints aren’t really blueprints. They use the printer as a plotter and deposit white ink on a blue page. In the video below, he shows a number of ways to use a printer to create interesting wall art, even if you want it to be bigger than the print bed. Some of the wall art uses multiple 3D printed parts, and others use the printer as a plotter.

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Cocktail Of Chemicals Makes This Blueprint Camera Unique

When you’re looking at blueprints today, chances are pretty good that what you’re seeing is anything but blue. Most building plans, diagrams of civil engineering projects, and even design documents for consumer products never even make it to paper, let alone get rendered in old-fashioned blue-and-white like large-format prints used to produced. And we think that’s a bit of a shame.

Luckily, [Brian Haidet] longs for those days as well, so much so that he built this large-format cyanotype camera to create photographs the old-fashioned way. Naturally, this is one of those projects where expectations must be properly scaled before starting; after all, there’s a reason we don’t go around taking pictures with paper soaked in a brew of toxic chemicals. Undaunted by the chemistry, [Brian] began his journey with simple contact prints, with Sharpie-marked transparency film masking the photosensitive paper, made from potassium ferricyanide, ammonium dichromate, and ammonium iron (III) oxalate, from the UV rays of the sun. The reaction creates the deep, rich pigment Prussian Blue, contrasting nicely with the white paper once the unexposed solution is washed away.

[Brian] wanted to go beyond simple contact prints, though, and the ridiculously large camera seen in the video below is the result. It’s just a more-or-less-lightproof box with a lens on one end and a sheet of sensitized paper at the other. The effective ISO of the “film” is incredibly slow, leading to problematically long exposure times. Coupled with the distortion caused by the lens, the images are — well, let’s just say unique. They’ve got a ghostly quality for sure, and there’s a lot to be said for that Prussian Blue color.

We’ve seen cyanotype chemistry used with UV lasers before, and large-format cameras using the collodion process. And we wonder if [Brian]’s long-exposure process might be better suited to solargraphy.

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