Sometimes the simplest objects need some overthinking. This is exactly what [Chris Borge] realized when using his 3D scanner and finding that the included rotation table left quite a bit to be desired — providing him the perfect excuse to build a new one.
One of the main features of a rotation stage is the, well, rotation. This was done in [Chris]’s case with a NEMA 17 stepper motor, perfect for precise rotation of scanning. Hooking up the motor to a basic perf board with an Arduino Nano allows for on the fly adjustments to rotation speed. To really solidify the over-engineering, [Chris] applies his obligatory concrete mix to add some heft to the stage.
While the previous features could be removed/downgraded without much loss, the adjustable grid built into the top adds significant functionality. The grid is based on [Chris]’s past projects, which allows cross compatibility.
We love over-engineering here at Hackaday, especially when adding something new. For more prime overthought design, check out this over engineered egg cracker!
Cool project. The thing that amazes me the most is that here on hackaday people tend to make the most beautifull things, but many just don’t seem to grasp the concept using both nuts ans spacers as supplied with the used tumble switches. Resulting in a beautiful build but with tumbler switches sticking out like a sore thumb because the builder failed (or just didn’t care) to mount the switch flush into the frontpanel.
How would you mount the switches?
You put a nut and washer on the switch, leaving just enough thread for the panel and another washer nut (plus optional washer, plate whatever). Push switch thru panel, put second nut on. Adjust rear nut if needed to set switch height.
It should look like this: https://www.premierguitar.com/media-library/photo-1.jpg?id=25745645
As the picture shows you can get fancy nuts for the outside, but inside will be the usual boring nut.
The switch shouldn’t rotate when you tighten the nut because you’ve remembered the key (no you didn’t and the punch is expensive so you just drilled a hole) or you figured you what that funny washer with the tab poking up is for (key lock washer).
To be fair, the correct way to mount them is not blatantly obvious, but the inclusion of a ‘spare’ nut should be a clue.
Maybe they simply have not seen how to use the second nut. Or glanced at a proper datasheet for the part.
So, you going to make a tutorial to show the unwashed the Correct Way?
I would genuinely appreciate a tutorial video or even a series of HaD articles about these kinds of finishing touches. Panel mounting, using the right types of washers, etc.
Agreed.
To be fair every datasheet I’ve ever seen shows it wrong. It seems to one of those things that is never written down but you learn from some old dude one day. Like “clocking” screws, although that’s a bit more well known.
Spot on!
He’s doing high quality work, spending high amounts of time and effort, just for some 10 cent garbage controls. Also he totally stripped the heck out of those threads at about 1 min into the video. Tapping pure melted plastic by the end. He then uses those tapped holes for POM wheels towards the end.
I can criticize design and technique all day, but I have to commend the overall project as it’s cool and still high quality overall. It fits his needs, and he recorded the whole thing.
I’ve built a lot of motorized toys as a child, including those radio shack robot arms.
Why would a power switch, potentiometer for speed, manual toggle button for momentary movement, and toggle for reverse need an arduino?
Could do it with a 555…
But why not an Arduino? Overkill, sure, but simple and easy, cheap enough, and easily reconfigurable.