The Engineering That Makes A Road Cat’s Eye Self-Cleaning

December 8, 2025 by Maya Posch 18 Comments

Although most people manage to navigate roads without major issues during the day, at night we become very reliant on the remaining navigational clues. The painted marks on the asphalt may not be as obvious in the glare of headlights, not to mention scuffed up and/or covered by snow and hidden by fog. This is where cat’s eyes are a great example of British ingenuity. A common sight in the UK and elsewhere in Europe, they use retroreflectors embedded in the road. Best of all, they are highly durable and self-cleaning, as [Mike Fernie] details in a recent video on these amazing devices.

Invented in the 1930s by [Percy Shaw], cat’s eyes feature a sturdy body that can take the abuse of being driven over by heavy trucks, along with a rubber dome that deforms to both protect the reflectors and wipe them clean using any water that’s pooled in the area below them. They also provide an auditory clue to the driver when they pass the center line, which can be very useful for night-time driving when attention may be slipping.

In the video the cat-squishing cleaning process is demonstrated using an old cat’s eyes unit that seems to have seen at least a few decades to road life, but still works and cleans up like a charm. Different color cat’s eyes are used to indicate different sections of the road, and modern designs include solar-powered LEDs as well as various sensors to monitor road conditions. Despite these innovations, it’s hard to beat the simplicity of [Percy]’s original design.

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Reason Versus Sentimental Attachment For Old Projects

December 5, 2025 by Maya Posch 30 Comments

We have probably all been there: digging through boxes full of old boards for projects and related parts. Often it’s not because we’re interested in the contents of said box, but because we found ourselves wondering why in the name of project management we have so many boxes of various descriptions kicking about. This is the topic of [Joe Barnard]’s recent video on his BPS.shorts YouTube channel, as he goes through box after box of stuff.

For some of the ‘trash’ the answer is pretty simple; such as the old rocket that’s not too complex and can have its electronics removed and the basic tube tossed, which at least will reduce the volume of ‘stuff’. Then there are the boxes with old projects, each of which are tangible reminders of milestones, setbacks, friendships, and so on. Sentimental stuff, basically.

Some rules exist for safety that make at least one part obvious, and that is that every single Li-ion battery gets removed when it’s not in use, with said battery stored in its own fire-resistant box. That then still leaves box after box full of parts and components that were ordered for projects once, but not fully used up. Do you keep all of it, just in case it will be needed again Some Day™? The same issue with boxes full of expensive cut-off cable, rare and less rare connectors, etc.

One escape clause is of course that you can always sell things rather than just tossing it, assuming it’s valuable enough. In the case of [Joe] many have watched his videos and would love to own a piece of said history, but this is not an option open to most. Leaving the question of whether gritting one’s teeth and simply tossing the ‘value-less’ sentimental stuff and cheap components is the way to go.

Although there is always the option of renting storage somewhere, this feels like a cheat, and will likely only result in the volume of ‘stuff’ expanding to fill the void. Ultimately [Joe] is basically begging his viewers to help him to solve this conundrum, even as many of them and our own captive audience are likely struggling with a similar problem. Where is the path to enlightenment here?

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Warnings About Retrobright Damaging Plastics After 10 Year Test

December 5, 2025 by Maya Posch 50 Comments

Within the retro computing community there exists a lot of controversy about so-called ‘retrobrighting’, which involves methods that seeks to reverse the yellowing that many plastics suffer over time. While some are all in on this practice that restores yellow plastics to their previous white luster, others actively warn against it after bad experiences, such as [Tech Tangents] in a recent video.

Uneven yellowing on North American SNES console. (Credit: Vintage Computing)

After a decade of trying out various retrobrighting methods, he found for example that a Sega Dreamcast shell which he treated with hydrogen peroxide ten years ago actually yellowed faster than the untreated plastic right beside it. Similarly, the use of ozone as another way to achieve the oxidation of the brominated flame retardants that are said to underlie the yellowing was also attempted, with highly dubious results.

While streaking after retrobrighting with hydrogen peroxide can be attributed to an uneven application of the compound, there are many reports of the treatment damaging the plastics and making it brittle. Considering the uneven yellowing of e.g. Super Nintendo consoles, the cause of the yellowing is also not just photo-oxidation caused by UV exposure, but seems to be related to heat exposure and the exact amount of flame retardants mixed in with the plastic, as well as potentially general degradation of the plastic’s polymers.

Pending more research on the topic, the use of retrobrighting should perhaps not be banished completely. But considering the damage that we may be doing to potentially historical artifacts, it would behoove us to at least take a step or two back and consider the urgency of retrobrighting today instead of in the future with a better understanding of the implications.

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Preventing A Mess With The Weller WDC Solder Containment Pocket

December 4, 2025 by Maya Posch 30 Comments

Have you ever tipped all the stray bits of solder out of your tip cleaner by mistake? [MisterHW] is here with a bit of paraffin wax to save the day.

Hand soldering can be a messy business, especially when you wipe the soldering iron tip on those common brass wool bundles that have largely come to replace moist sponges. The Weller Dry Cleaner (WDC) is one of such holders for brass wool, but the large tray in front of the opening with the brass wool has confused many as to its exact purposes. In short, it’s there so that you can slap the iron against the side to flick contaminants and excess solder off the tip.

Along with catching some of the bits of mostly solder that fly off during cleaning in the brass wool section, quite a lot of debris can be collected this way. Yet as many can attest to, it’s quite easy to flip over brass wool holders and have these bits go flying everywhere.

That’s where [MisterHW]’s pit of particulate holding comes into play, using folded sheet metal and some wax (e.g. paraffin) to create a trap that serves to catch any debris that enters it and smother it in the wax. To reset the trap, simply heat it up with e.g. the iron and you’ll regain a nice fresh surface to capture the next batch of crud.

As the wax is cold when in use, even if you were to tip the holder over, it should not go careening all over your ESD-safe work surface and any parts on it, and the wax can be filtered if needed to remove the particulates. When using leaded solder alloys, this setup also helps to prevent lead-contamination of the area and generally eases clean-up as bumping or tipping a soldering iron stand no longer means weeks, months or years of accumulations scooting off everywhere.

Using A Level 2 Charger To Work Around Slow 120 VAC Kettles

December 1, 2025 by Maya Posch 72 Comments

To those of us who live in the civilized lands where ~230 VAC mains is the norm and we can shove a cool 3.5 kW into an electric kettle without so much as a second thought, the mere idea of trying to boil water with 120 VAC and a tepid 1.5 kW brings back traumatic memories of trying to boil water with a 12 VDC kettle while out camping. Naturally, in a fit of nationalistic pride this leads certain North American people like that bloke over at the [Technology Connections] YouTube to insist that this is fine, as he tries to demonstrate how ridiculous 240 VAC kettles are by abusing a North American Level 2 car charger to power a UK-sourced kettle.

Ignoring for a moment that in Europe a ‘Level 1’ charger is already 230 VAC (±10%) and many of us charge EVs at home with three-phase ~440 VAC, this video is an interesting demonstration, both of how to abuse an EV car charger for other applications and how great having hot water for tea that much faster is.

Friendly tea-related transatlantic jabs aside, the socket adapter required to go from the car charger to the UK-style plug is a sight to behold. All which we starts as we learn that Leviton makes a UK-style outlet for US-style junction boxes, due to Gulf States using this combination. This is subsequently wired to the pins of the EV charger connector, after which the tests can commence.

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3D Printing And The Dream Of Affordable Prosthetics

December 1, 2025 by Maya Posch 12 Comments

As amazing as the human body is, it’s unfortunately not as amazing as e.g. axolotl bodies are, in the sense that they can regrow entire limbs and more. This has left us humans with the necessity to craft artificial replacement limbs to restore some semblance of the original functionality, at least until regenerative medicine reaches maturity.

Despite this limitation, humans have become very adept at crafting prosthetic limbs, starting with fairly basic prosthetics to fully articulated and beautifully sculpted ones, all the way to modern-day functional prosthetics. Yet as was the case a hundred years ago, today’s prosthetics are anything but cheap. This is mostly due to the customization required as no person’s injury is the same.

When the era of 3D printing arrived earlier this century, it was regularly claimed that this would make cheap, fully custom prosthetics a reality. Unfortunately this hasn’t happened, for a variety of reasons. This raises the question of whether 3D printing can at all play a significant role in making prosthetics more affordable, comfortable or functional.

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On The Benefits Of Filling 3D Prints With Spray Foam

November 29, 2025 by Maya Posch 41 Comments

Closed-cell self-expanding foam (spray foam) is an amazing material that sees common use in construction. But one application that we hadn’t heard of before was using it to fill the internal voids of 3D printed objects. As argued by [Alex] in a half-baked-research YouTube video, this foam could be very helpful with making sure that printed boats keep floating and water stays out of sensitive electronic bits.

It’s pretty common knowledge by now that 3D printed objects from FDM printers aren’t really watertight. Due to the way that these printers work, there’s plenty of opportunity for small gaps and voids between layers to permit moisture to seep through. This is where the use of this self-expanding foam comes into play, as it’s guaranteed to be watertight. In addition, [Alex] also tests how this affects the strength of the print and using its insulating properties.

The test prints are designed with the requisite port through which the spray foam is injected as well as pressure relief holes. After a 24 hour curing period the excess foam is trimmed. Early testing showed that in order for the foam to cure well inside the part, it needed to be first flushed with water to provide the moisture necessary for the chemical reaction. It’s also essential to have sufficient pressure relief holes, especially for the larger parts, as the expanding foam can cause structural failure.

As for the results, in terms of waterproofing there was some water absorption, likely in the PETG part. But after 28 hours of submerging none of the sample cubes filled up with water. The samples did not get any stronger tensile-wise, but the compression test showed a 25 – 70% increase in resistance to buckling, which is quite significant.

Finally, after tossing some ice cubes into a plain FDM printed box and one filled with foam, it took less than six hours for the ice to melt, compared to the spray foam insulated box which took just under eight hours.

This seems to suggest that adding some of this self-expanding foam to your 3D printed part makes a lot of sense if you want to keep water out, add more compressive strength, or would like to add thermal insulation beyond what FDM infill patterns can provide.

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