Fixing A Nintendo Game Boy Clone That Runs Too Fast

There’s no shortage of cloned Nintendo hardware out there, and most of it is pretty poor. A few are actually pretty interesting though, such as the GB Boy by Gangfeng, which takes real cartridges and thus in many ways should provide the original Game Boy Pocket experience with modern hardware. But as you might imagine, even the best of the clones comes with various technical issues at no additional charge — with this particular unit having a habit of running the game too fast. It’s an issue that [Sharopolis] addresses in a recent video with a partial fix.

As can be seen in the demonstration, it runs games just too fast to make it very usable or fun, hence why it sat in a drawer for a few years after purchasing off AliExpress. This raises the question of what’s wrong with these units, as others report similar issues with this and other ‘GB Boy’ variants.

Fortunately the unit is easy to open, revealing the PCB with a couple of chips on it, one marked KF2001 being the brains of the operation alongside two memory chips. The oscillator marked X1 for the main IC is rated for 5 MHz, whereas a quick look inside the Game Boy Pocket shows that its oscillator runs at 4.1943 MHz, which is a bit of a difference.

Because of how buying components and pricing works, [Sharopolis] ended up with a reel of 100 of replacement oscillators with the right parameters for a drop-in replacement. After swapping the oscillator, the GB Boy now does indeed run games at the right speed, but a new issue has now cropped up in the form of flicker on the display.

In the comments it’s suggested that replacing the cheap capacitors on the GB Boy’s board can help here, but it highlights just how these clone systems keep managing to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory by pairing what looks to be a pretty good IC with either the wrong or sub-par components.

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Restoring Apple’s Terrible But Awesome IBook Laptop

Before the Apple MacBook there was the Apple iBook, fruity 1999 colors included. These PowerPC-based laptops targeted low-cost PC-compatible laptops much like the iMac did, albeit it the latter with more success. That said, these laptops are said to be a nightmare to repair, so when [This Does Not Compute] got his hands on a shiny first generation, 300 MHz PowerPC powered, tangerine-colored one, he somewhat dreaded trying to fix it.

Aside from some relatively minor cosmetic issues such as typical cracks in the plastic and a missing optical drive door it seemed in good condition. The first issue came on boot, when MacOS 9.0 would throw up an error message about an issue with cache memory. After booting into the OS this cache memory did indeed show up as missing. Next issue was the optical drive doing absolutely nothing and restarting leading to the system locking up and not starting until plugging in the power adapter.

Fortunately the optical drive started working after addressing a software issue, but the power and cache issues were concerning. Cue a long troubleshooting and repair session that involved purchasing a ‘parts unit’ from Japan to merge both into a single iBook with hopefully a working system at the end.

Along the way the reason why people dislike maintaining these systems, as to do something like getting to the hard drive requires removing the entire display. The cause for the first iBook’s problems also seemed to be due to a liquid spill of some type, as on boot there was no chime either, indicating a wider board-level issue. Unfortunately this was left further undiagnosed and the Japanese mainboard used instead. It’d be interesting to see the deeper cause, but most likely the mainboard will be used for components.

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Recreating A Broken Laminated Wooden Furniture Part

Everyone loves those rather bouncy wooden lounge chairs that got popularized by a certain Swedish seller of furniture, but as tough as they are, the laminated wood can still break at some point. The chair that [John’s Furniture Repair] got in for repair had cracked right around where a bolt hole had been drilled, apparently creating a weak spot that over the years turned into a crack.

The way to fix this issue is to recreate the one piece of curved, laminated wood as demonstrated in the video. This starts with tracing the contours of the original part on a piece of MDF, which then gets doubled up by a second plate of MDF. After cutting out the contours this then creates the two halves of a mold for the laminated part.

Next is preparing the layers of wood that will become the new part, making sure to keep the same final thickness as the original. With everything glued up the layers are put into the mold, clamped down and the glue left to dry.

Finally, the part is freed from the mold, cut to its final size, and sanded down to prepare it for final treatment and installation on the lounge chair. Perhaps the only negative one can say about this kind of fix is that after you’re done, you really get that itch to sand down and re-lacquer all of the other parts as well so that they also look new and shiny.

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Fixing A Cotton Candy Vending Machine

Cotton candy is probably the best way to eat pure sugar, which makes having your very own cotton candy vending machine to automate making it a bit of a dream. The machine that [Block’s Retro Repairs] got should therefore make him very happy, but unfortunately it was bought as defective. After digging into the machine in an earlier video, this time around there’s some actual success and proper cotton candy to enjoy.

The PCB with the rather frayed temperature sensor. (Credit: Block's Retro Repairs, YouTube)
The PCB with the rather frayed temperature sensor. (Credit: Block’s Retro Repairs, YouTube)

The way that cotton candy is made involves spinning thin threads of sugar, which are created by the heating and rapid crystallization of the sweet stuff. Unfortunately this machine wasn’t even really extruding sugar any more, so it had to get a deep clean to remove probably years of crusty buildup. After this things still weren’t working right, although cranking up the temperature on the induction heated head improved the results somewhat.

To really fix the machine, this head with its clearly dodgy thermocouple had to be disassembled. This revealed that said sensor was looking rather frayed, potentially shorting out against the aluminium head and likely not in the entirely right position any more. After adding some insulation back and making sure that the thermocouple was located closer to the top of the head, it was time for more testing.

Repairing the thermocouple seems to have fixed most ills, with still some calibration of the temperature required, but finally resulting in fancy shaped cotton candy in its myriad of colors. Along with the looming hazard of potentially acquiring Type II diabetes from all the testing, there was still a problem involving the remote management feature of this Red Rabbit machine.

These $6,000 vending machines do feature an Android 7-based software with a Rockchip SoC and access to a lot of settings via its large touch screen, but features such as setting prices for the products are locked away via a remote account. The machine was sadly still linked to someone else’s account, and so far Red Rabbit support had not responded to any documentation, repair help or account unlinking requests. This has left the machine in somewhat of a pickle.

It was possible to dump the software of the machine, which can be fetched from Archive.org, so if anyone would like to pitch in and break this remote lock, that would be very welcome. It’s also considered to replace the cash reader with a simple button or so, but where’s the fun in that?

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Trying To Fix A GoPro Hero 10 With A No Camera Input Issue

In the search for more exciting broken electronics to repair, [Hugh Jeffreys] bought a GoPro Hero 10 for US$100 with an apparently rather common issue of no camera input, along with a cracked display. This particular camera issue is rather obvious, with just darkness where the camera’s input should appear on the display. Since [Hugh] already needed a spare display, he figured that he might as well get an even more broken GoPro Hero 10 for parts.

Another US$40 later, [Hugh] found himself the proud owner of a second GoPro, this one being water damaged and no longer turning on. Getting to the internals requires removing the glued-in display, which is even trickier than with a smartphone. By inserting a thin blade, adding solvents and not prying, you can slowly work it loose.

With two disassembled GoPros it was now possible to swap modules. After a factory reset and firmware update had failed to fix the first GoPro, the camera module from the donor unit was inserted, but this made no difference. Amusingly, after cleaning the water-damaged unit’s PCBs, it was found to be in good working condition, so ultimately the second GoPro was repaired, leaving the ‘no camera input’ issue undiagnosed.

It’s possible that a board-level repair on the first unit can address the original issue, but without schematics this would likely entail a lot of blindly poking around, in the hope of finding a damaged MLCC or other obvious fault. There is also the possibility that this is a firmware issue, with some reporting luck mashing the record button, but others disagree.

Since [Hugh] did do the firmware reset and updating steps, and even inserted a whole new working camera module, it would seem to narrow the problem down to a board-level issue. Whatever the case may be, it’s a frustrating issue with a rather expensive device.

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Debugging A Stopped Foucault Pendulum’s Electronics

After the Foucault pendulum at the Houston Museum of Natural Science stopped working a while back after maintenance on the building, workers set out to determine what was wrong with the mechanism that normally keeps it in motion. Fortunately, it turned out that all they had to do was fiddle with some knobs to get everything dialed back in proper-like.

When we previously covered this dire event, it was claimed that this was a one-off system, hacked together by some random bloke. But as can be seen in the video and further detailed in the comments to the video the reality is far more interesting.

This particular Foucault pendulum is one of many that were created by the California Academy of Sciences, with hundreds of them installed throughout the US and possibly elsewhere. That said, since a pendulum of any description will never be a perpetual motion device, the electromagnet installed near the top of the installation has to carefully add some kinetic energy back that was lost due to friction as the pendulum moves around.

Sadly the video doesn’t go into much detail on what exactly was wrongly configured with this particular pendulum. Keeping a weight at the end of a long cable moving around at a set velocity is a tricky business, so it’s little wonder that getting some parameters wrong would engage and disengage the electromagnets at the wrong times and making the pendulum stop swinging.

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Dyson Vacuums And The Curse Of Cooked Capacitors

It seems to be becoming a bit of a theme that consumer electronics are dying not due to some critical fault, but due to Cooked Capacitor Syndrome (CCS). Case in point, Dyson handheld vacuums and the capacitors on its driver board. After having his $800 Dyson V15 handheld vacuum die after two and a half years of regular use, [LeftyMaker] found himself elbows-deep in the dusty innards of the vacuum just to replace some capacitors.

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