In this era of cheap turn-key machines, the idea of actually building your own desktop 3D printer might seem odd to some. But if you’re looking for a challenge, and want to end up with a printer that legitimately sets itself apart from what they’re stocking on Amazon these days, then take a look at the Lemontron.
We’ve been keeping tabs on the development of this open source 3D printer for some time now, and just before Christmas, the files finally were released for anyone who wants to try putting one together themselves. There’s currently no formal kit available, but once you’ve printed out all the parts, there’s a very nice bill of materials you can find on the website which will tell you everything you need to complete the assembly — and critically — where you can get it.
Whether you only dabble in electronics as a hobby or it’s your full-time job, there are few tools as indispensable as the multimeter. In fact, we’d be willing to bet nearly everyone reading this site owns at least one of them. But as common and mindbogglingly useful as they may be, they aren’t perfect. Even the high-end models will invariably have some annoyance that only reveals itself once you become intimately acquainted with it.
Most people would just live with those quirks, especially when dealing with a cheaper model. But not [John Duffy]. Deciding nothing but perfection would do, he took every favorite feature he’d ever run into while using other multimeters and combined them into his scratch-built HydraMeter. In the process, he managed to come up with a few new ideas that push this device into a league of its own.
Some of the features of the HydraMeter will look familiar. You might even have them on your own personal meter, such as the wireless removable display module. Other features you’ll wish your meter had, such as the removable cartridge on the front of the device that lets you rapidly swap out a burned fuse. On the other side of the spectrum, there are some esoteric features that might leave you scratching your head. The ability to tell exactly how the meter is configured at a glance thanks to its exclusive use of toggle switches has a certain hacker appeal, but it’s a tricky user interface for most folks.
While the overall design of the HydraMeter may be divisive, one thing we can all agree on is that getting the project to this state took incredible determination. Over the years we’ve only seen a handful of individuals attempt to develop their own multimeters, and even then, none of them approached this level of fit and finish. The fact that [John] has turned all that effort over to the community by releasing his design under the CERN license is truly admirable.
[John] brought the HydraMeter out to Pasadena back in November for Supercon, and it got quite a reaction. And if you don’t like the user interface, it’s not hard to imagine how you could change it. This project has unquestionably pushed the state of the art for open source multimeters forward, and we’re eager to see where it goes from here.
We know, you’ve already got a USB to serial adapter. Probably several of them, in fact. But that doesn’t mean you couldn’t use one more — especially when it’s as as cleverly designed as this one from [Anders Nielsen].
The first thing you notice about this adapter, and the big departure from the ones that are likely littering your parts bin, is that it terminates in a full-size male DSUB9 connector. With the ability to be directly plugged into a RS-232 port, this adapter will certainly catch the eye of retrocomputer enthusiasts. With a clever arrangement of jumpers, you can even reconfigure the RX and TX lines to be straight-through or cross over as needed.
But if you’re working with something that doesn’t have a literal serial port, no worries. All of the lines coming from the CH340G chip are broken out to a header so you can connect it up to whatever device you’re working with via jumpers.
In fact, if you’re really sure you’ll never need that RS232 feature, the PCB is even designed in such a way that you can simply snap it off. Admittedly it might seem a little odd to get a device like this if you didn’t want that capability. But once broken off, it’s not like the components go to waste. [Anders] has designed the board in such a way that if you flip it over and install a right-angle header, you can use the RS232 segment on a breadboard.
But the list of features doesn’t stop there. There’s also a 3.3 V regulator on board that you can use to power external circuits, as well as breakouts for the data lines in the USB-C connector. In keeping with the theme of the device, that part of the PCB can also be snapped off if you want to use it elsewhere.
Most folks probably’ won’t need all the capabilities offered by this particular serial adapter, and that’s fine. We’re still happy that it’s out in the wild and available for the community to use and adapt as an open source project.
If we’ve learned anything over the years, it’s that the only thing hardware hackers love more than a device festooned with buttons is one that’s covered in LEDs — so it’s no surprise that this “Mr Christmas” jukebox caught the eye of [Roberts Retro]. But while the holiday gadget might have been mildly entertaining in its stock configuration, he quickly realized that what it really needed was an ESP32 retrofit. After all, what good are all those buttons and LEDs if you can’t bend them to your will?
For the first half of the video, [Robert] treats us to a detailed teardown of the device, which as you might imagine, is largely hollow inside. This gave him plenty of room to graft in new hardware, which is really the best gift any of us could hope to find under the tree. In addition to the ESP32 development board, the jukebox also received a number of WS2812B addressable RGB LEDs, and a DFPlayer module to handle music playback.
With all the buttons wired up to inputs on the ESP32, [Robert] can reconfigure the jukebox to do pretty much whatever he wants with just changes to the software. In the video, he demonstrates how the buttons can be used to trigger the playback of individual songs stored on the DFPlayer’s SD card, which essentially replicates it’s stock functionality. A few lines of changed code later, those same buttons can be used to control devices via Home Assistant.
Readers may recall when we first covered the $5 Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC temperature and humidity sensor back in 2020. Prolific hacker [Aaron Christophel] wrote a custom firmware for the affordable gadget that was so capable and well implemented that it kicked off a whole new community.
It’s recently been brought to our attention that the Xiaomi thermometer has become so popular that clones have started popping up. Often sold under the Tuya brand, these versions look very similar to Xiaomi’s offering but can be had for as little as $1 each from the usual Chinese importers. Even better, they’ve got their very own open-source custom firmware.
The firmware comes from [pvvx], who also helms the most active fork of [Aaron]’s original firmware for the Xiaomi thermometer. Doing a bit of spot-checking between the repositories, it’s not immediately clear that any meaningful code is shared between the two projects. However, once installed, they offer similar capabilities to the user, such as integration with Home Assistant. Perhaps the most significant difference between the two projects is that, at least for the initial flash, you need to hook the Tuya units up to your computer with a USB serial adapter. Considering that one of the highlights of the Xiaomi custom firmware was its exceptionally easy wireless installation, this is a considerable step backward.
Below is a video from a few months back that [Maker’s Fun Duck] put together, where he takes apart one of these clones and shows the installation process for the custom firmware. Our overall impression is that it’s probably worth the few extra dollars to get the original Xiaomi hardware, although the display on the clone seems much brighter. In any event, we’re always happy to see the community coming up with free and open-source firmware for an otherwise locked-down gadget.
This year, we not only challenged Supercon attendees to come up with their own Simple Add-Ons (SAOs) for the badge, but to push the envelope on how the modular bits of flair work. Historically, most SAOs were little more than artistically arranged LEDs, but we wanted to see what folks could do if they embraced the largely unused I2C capability of the spec.
[Squidgeefish] clearly understood the assignment. This first-time attendee arrived in Pasadena with an SAO that was hard to miss…literally. Looking directly at the shockingly bright 128 RGB LED array packed onto the one-inch diameter PCB was an experience that would stay with you for quite some time (ask us how we know). With the “artistically arranged LEDs” aspect of the nominal SAO handled nicely, the extra work was put into the design so that the CPU could control the LED array via simple I2C commands.
Wood heat offers unique advantages compared to more modern heating systems, especially in remote areas. But it also comes with its own challenges, namely, keeping the fire going at the optimum temperature. If it’s too cold you risk buildup in the chimney, but if you’ve got it stoked up more than necessary, you’ll end up burning through your wood faster.
To keep the fire in that sweet spot, [Jay] decided to put an ESP8266 and a thermocouple to work. Now, this might seem like an easy enough job at first, but things are complicated by the fact that the flue temperature above the stove lags considerably behind the temperature inside the stove. There’s also the fact that the top of the chimney will end up being much colder than the bottom.
Mounting the thermocouple in the flue pipe.
In an effort to get a more complete view of what’s happening, [Jay] plans on putting at least two thermocouples in the chimney. But as getting on the roof in December isn’t his idea of fun, for now, he’s starting with the lower one that’s mounted right above the stove. He popped a hole in the pipe to screw in a standard K-type probe, and tapped it a few times with the welder to make sure it wasn’t going anywhere.
From there, the thermocople connects to a MAX6675 amplifier, and then to the WeMos D1 Mini development board that’s been flashed with ESPHome. [Jay] provides the configuration file that will get the flue temperature into Home Assistant, as well as set up notifications for various temperature events. The whole thing goes into a 3D printed box, and gets mounted behind the stove.
This project is a great example on how you can get some real-world data into Home Assistant quickly and easily. In the future, [Jay] not only wants to add that second thermocouple, but also look into manipulating the stove’s air controls with a linear actuator. Here’s hoping we get an update as his woodstove learns some new tricks.
