Stacy’s Computer Has Got It Going On

January 5, 2025 by Al Williams 14 Comments

According to [ClassicHasClass], the best way to open an Atari Stacy is to not open an Atari Stacy. Apparently, these old computers were not pleasant to work on. The cables were not keyed and were prone to short against things. Screws easily strip out plastic holes. Of course, there wouldn’t be a story if there wasn’t a teardown and an upgrade that you can check out in the post.

The Stacy was one of Atari’s earliest portable systems and the first ST portable (that is, STacy). There’s a backlit LCD, a keyboard and trackball, and the usual ports. You could make do with a single floppy or spring for a second floppy or an internal SCSI hard drive. The 8 MHz 68000-based machine would set you back north of $2,300 back in 1989.

The original plan was to run the thing on C-cell batteries, but that would give you about 15 minutes of operation. They finally decided it was a luggable — you’d have to plug it into the wall. The battery compartment was there, but empty and glued shut.

Apparently, there were about 35,000 of these made, but they seem somewhat rare. But we do like a rare retrocomputer. Or even some that aren’t so rare.

Circuit Secrets: Exploring A $5 Emergency Light

December 28, 2024 by Heidi Ulrich 2 Comments

Who would’ve thought a cheap AliExpress emergency light could be packed with such crafty design choices? Found for about $5, this unit uses simple components yet achieves surprisingly sophisticated behaviors. Its self-latching feature and decisive illumination shut-off are just the beginning. A detailed analysis by [BigCliveDotCom] reveals a smart circuit that defies its humble price.

The circuit operates via a capacitive dropper, a cost-effective way to power low-current devices. What stands out, though, is its self-latching behavior. During a power failure, transistors manage to keep the LEDs illuminated until the battery voltage drops below a precise threshold, avoiding the dreaded fade-to-black. Equally clever is the automatic shut-off when the voltage dips too low, sparing the battery from a full drain.

Modifications are possible, too. For regions with 220V+ mains, swapping the dropper capacitor with a 470nF one can reduce heat dissipation. Replacing the discharge resistor (220k) with a higher value improves longevity by running cooler. What remarkable reverse engineering marvels have you come across? Share it in the comments! After all, it is fun to hack into consumer stuff. Even if it is just a software hack.

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20 GHz LNB Testing And Teardown

December 27, 2024 by Al Williams 10 Comments

Many things have combined to make very high-frequency RF gear much more common, cheaper, and better performing. Case in point: [dereksgc] is tearing apart a 20 GHz low-noise block (LNB). An LNB is a downconverter, and this one is used for some Irish satellite TV services.

The scale of everything matters when your wavelength is only 15 mm. The PCB is small and neatly laid out. There are two waveguides printed on the board, each feeding essentially identical parts of the PCB. Printed filters use little patterns on the board that have particular inductance and capacitance — no need for any components. Try doing that at 2 MHz!

The LNB is a single-band unit, so it only needs to worry about the two polarizations. However, [dereksgc] shows that some have multiple bands, which makes everything more complex. He also mentions that this LNB doesn’t use a PLL, and he’d like to find a replacement at this frequency that is a bit more modern.

After the teardown, it is time to test the device to see how it works. If you want to experiment at this frequency, you need special techniques. For example, we’ve seen people try to push solderless breadboards this high (spoiler: it isn’t easy). Maybe that’s why many people settle for modifying existing LNBs like this one.

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A Look Back At Google’s 2015 Chromecast

December 12, 2024 by Maya Posch 15 Comments

Google’s Chromecast was first released in 2013, with a more sophisticated follow-up in 2015, which saw itself joined by the Chromecast Audio dongle. The device went through an additional two hardware generations before the entire line of products was discontinued earlier this year in favor of Google TV.

Marvell's Armada 88DE3006 dual-core Cortex-A7 powers the second-generation ChromeCast. (Credit: Brian Dipert, EDN) — Marvell’s Armada 88DE3006 dual-core Cortex-A7 powers the second-generation Chromecast. (Credit: Brian Dipert, EDN)

In addition to collecting each generation of Chromecast, [Brian Dipert] over at EDN looked back on this second-generation dongle from 2015 while also digging into the guts of a well-used example that got picked up used.

While not having any of the fascinating legacy features of the 2nd-generation Ultra in his collection that came with the Stadia gaming controller, it defines basically everything that Chromecast dongles were about: a simple dongle with a HDMI & USB connector that you plugged into a display that you wanted to show streaming content on. The teardown is mostly similar to the 2015-era teardown by iFixit, who incidentally decided not to assign any repairability score, for obvious reasons.

Most interesting about this second-generation Chromecast is that the hardware supported Bluetooth, but that this wasn’t enabled until a few years later, presumably to fix the wonky new device setup procedure that would be replaced with a new procedure via the Google Home app.

While Google’s attention has moved on to newer devices, the Chromecast isn’t dead — the dongles in the wild still work, and the protocol is supported by Google TV and many ‘smart’ appliances including TVs and multimedia receivers.

Raspberry Pi 500 And The Case Of The Missing M.2 Slot

December 9, 2024 by Maya Posch 76 Comments

Raspberry Pi just dropped the new Raspberry Pi 500, which like its predecessor puts the similarly named SBC into a keyboard. In a detailed review and teardown video, [Jeff Geerling] goes over all the details, and what there is to like and not like about this new product.

The new Raspberry Pi 500 with the new Raspberry Pi Monitor. (Credit: Jeff Geerling)

Most of the changes relative to the RP400 are as expected, with the change to the same BCM2712 SoC as on the Raspberry Pi 5, while doubling the RAM to 8 GB and of course you get the soft power button. As [Jeff] discovers with the teardown, the odd thing is that the RP500 PCB has the footprints for an M.2 slot, as seen on the above image, but none of the components are populated.

Naturally, [Jeff] ordered up some parts off Digikey to populate these footprints, but without luck. After asking Raspberry Pi, he was told that these footprints as well as those for a PoE feature are there for ‘flexibility to reuse the PCB in other contexts’. Sadly, it seems that these unpopulated parts of the board will have to remain just that, with no M.2 NVMe slot option built-in. With the price bump to $90 from the RP400’s $70 you’ll have to do your own math on whether the better SoC and more RAM is worth it.

In addition to the RP500 itself, [Jeff] also looks at the newly launched Raspberry Pi Monitor, a 15.6″ IPS display for $100. This unit comes with built-in speakers and VESA mount, but as [Jeff] notes in his review, using this VESA mount also means that you’re blocking all the ports, so you have to take the monitor off said VESA mount if you want to plug in or out any cables.

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A Look Inside IKEA’s Vallhorn Motion Sensor Teardown

December 7, 2024 by Jenny List 25 Comments

A good source of hackable home automation parts has come for a while in the form of inexpensive modules offered by large retailers such as Lidl, or IKEA. They’re readily available and easy to play with, they work with open source hubs, so what’s not to like! As an example, [Circuit Valley] has an IKEA Vallhorn motion sensor for a teardown, it’s as you might expect, a passive infrared sensor (PIR) sensor coupled with a Zigbee interface.

Inside the ultrasonic welded case is a small PCB and a Fresnel lens on the inside of the top cover, and a small PCB for the electronics. We applaud the use of a Swiss Army knife can opener as a spudger. The interesting part comes in identifying the individual components: the Silicon Labs EFR32MG21 SoC is easy enough, but another mystery 8-pin chip is more elusive. The part number suggests an Analog Devices op-amp for signal conditioning the PIR output, but the pinout seems not to support it and from here we think it’s too expensive a part for a budget item like this.

There’s a handy header for talking to the SoC, which we’d love to report is open and ready to be hacked, but we’re not getting too optimistic. Even if not hackable though, we’re guessing many of you find uses for these things. Continue reading “A Look Inside IKEA’s Vallhorn Motion Sensor Teardown” →

Fluke Meter Fails With A Simple Problem

December 4, 2024 by Al Williams 19 Comments

[TheHWcave] found a Fluke 27 multimeter that looked like it had had quite a rough life. At first, the display flashed an overload indicator until he gave it a good smack—or, as he likes to call it, percussive maintenance. Even then, it would not give good readings, so it was time to open it up.

The display did work, so the obvious theory was something wrong with the analog board. Removing the shields showed what looked like a normal enough PCB. Or at least, the components looked fine. But on the solder side of the board, there was some corrosion on two contacts, so some careful cleaning and resoldering fixed the meter to be as good as new on at least some scales.

Tracing the pins, the corrosion put a resistor between two pins of an op-amp. The only remaining problem was the milliamp scale, but that was a simple blown fuse in the line. Since it was working, it was worth some time to clean up the ugly exterior, which is only cosmetic but still worth a little effort. He left the plastic case cracked and beaten, but he put a lot of effort into clearing up the display window.

You might wonder why you’d fix a meter when you can get one so cheap. However, these name-brand meters are high-quality and new, quite expensive. Even older ones can be worth the effort. While you usually don’t need an X-ray machine to fix something like this, it can’t hurt.

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