LiPo Added to LEGO Power Functions Power Brick

LEGO’s Power Functions elements mostly consist of DC motors and the hardware to be driven by those motors like gears and wheels. They also include battery packs, usually a bunch of AA cells in a plastic box. One of the challenges of the system — for hackers, anyway — is interfacing with the product line’s plugs, which resemble 2×2 plates with power and ground connectors built in, designed to be impossible to connect in reverse. It’s difficult to make the physical shape of the plug, with the connectors right where they should be. This hurdle means you also pretty much have to use LEGO’s power boxes or take your chances with frying your components from an unregulated LiPo.

The LiPo Power Brick project serves as a DC-DC power supply, serving up constant 9 V output, with
over current protection limiting current to 3 A peak or 2 A continuous and over-discharge protection shutting down the power supply when it zeroes out. It can be used in conjunction with Sbrick smart Power Functions controllers. The SBrick can also source 3A per channel, which is more than any LEGO PF-compatible power supply can deliver.

The LiPo Power Brick is the same size as a standard 2×4 brick, allowing you to easily add it to your next project.

9 thoughts on “LiPo Added to LEGO Power Functions Power Brick

  1. I’m so SICK of seeing all these magic LEGO parts on the Web in “Maker” projects! Are these ACTUAL parts made by LEGO? If-not, WHO makes these parts, and how do you find them and buy them? If these LEGO parts are NOT made and sold by LEGO, why isn’t LEGO suing the manufacturers of these parts? Does this all come down to China – again?

    1. As I recall did the patent on Lego expire. So making lego compatiple blocks is perfectly legal. Grey area is making and releasing copies of official lego kits like some chinese companies do.

  2. Excellent work! 3D printed LEGOs are a pain to make, but with a decent caliper and LEGOs dimensions, it can be done.
    These boxes are pretty easy to make if you have a 3D printer that has been calibrated nicely. My biggest problem was trying to create the power functions connector. I made a version that used bent SIPs to make the electrical connection. It works, but I found it was easier and better looking to just use a split Power Function extension cable and the original connector set inside a 3D printed battery box.

    Everything is posted on Thingiverse if anyone wants to advance the process.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1950894

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753984

    I will search for the original AutoCAD files from a older desktop if anyone is interested. (send me a msg on Thingiverse) triton_9

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