Hackaday Podcast Episode 280: TV Tubes As Amplifiers, Smart Tech In Sportsballs, And Adrian Gives Us The Fingie

Despite the summer doldrums, it was another big week in the hacking world, and Elliot sat down with Dan for a rundown. Come along for the ride as Dan betrays his total ignorance of soccer/football, much to Elliot’s amusement. But it’s all about keeping the human factor in sports, so we suppose it was worth it. Less controversially, we ogled over a display of PCB repair heroics, analyzed a reverse engineering effort that got really lucky, and took a look at an adorable one-transistor ham transceiver. We also talked about ants doing surgery, picking locks with nitric acid, a damn cute dam, and how to build one of the world’s largest machines from scratch in under a century. Plus, we answered the burning question: can a CRT be used as an audio amplifier? Yes, kind of, but please don’t let the audiophiles know or we’ll never hear the end of it.

Worried about attracting the Black Helicopters? Download the DRM-free MP3 and listen offline, just in case.

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Retrotechtacular: Ford Model T Wheels, Start To Finish

There’s no doubt that you’ll instantly recognize clips from the video below, as they’ve been used over and over for more than 100 years to illustrate the development of the assembly line. But those brief clips never told the whole story about just how much effort Ford was forced to put into manufacturing just one component of their iconic Model T: the wheels.

An in-house production of Ford Motors, this film isn’t dated, at least not obviously. And with the production of Model T cars using wooden spoked artillery-style wheels stretching from 1908 to 1925, it’s not easy to guess when the film was made. But judging by the clothing styles of the many hundreds of men and boys working in the River Rouge wheel shop, we’d venture a guess at 1920 or so.

Production of the wooden wheels began with turning club-shaped spokes from wooden blanks — ash, at a guess — and drying them in a kiln for more than three weeks. While they’re cooking, a different line steam-bends hickory into two semicircular felloes that will form the wheel’s rim. The number of different steps needed to shape the fourteen pieces of wood needed for each wheel is astonishing. Aside from the initial shaping, the spokes need to be mitered on the hub end to fit snugly together and have a tenon machined on the rim end. The felloes undergo multiple steps of drilling, trimming, and chamfering before they’re ready to receive the spokes.

The first steel component is a tire, which rolls down out of a furnace that heats and expands it before the wooden wheel is pressed into it. More holes are drilled and more steel is added; plates to reinforce the hub, nuts and bolts to hold everything together, and brake drums for the rear wheels. The hubs also had bearing races built right into them, which were filled with steel balls right on the line. How these unsealed bearings were protected during later sanding and grinding operations, not to mention the final painting step, which required a bath in asphalt paint and spinning the wheel to fling off the excess, is a mystery.

Welded steel spoked wheels replaced their wooden counterparts in the last two model years for the T, even though other car manufacturers had already started using more easily mass-produced stamped steel disc wheels in the mid-1920s. Given the massive infrastructure that the world’s largest car manufacturer at the time devoted to spoked wheel production, it’s easy to see why. But Ford eventually saw the light and moved away from spoked wheels for most cars. We can’t help but wonder what became of the army of workers, but it probably wasn’t good. So turn the wheels of progress.

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Flexures Make Robotic Fingers Simpler To Print

Designing an anthropomorphic robotic hand seems to make a lot of sense — right up until the point that you realize just how complex the human hand is. What works well in bone and sinew often doesn’t translate well to servos and sensors, and even building a single mechanical finger can require dozens of parts.

Or, if you’re as clever about things as [Adrian Perez] is, only one part. His print-in-place robotic finger, adorably dubbed “Fingie,” is a huge step toward simplifying anthropomorphic manipulators. Fingie is printed in PLA and uses flexures for the three main joints of the finger, each of which consists of two separate and opposed coil springs. The flexures allow the phalanges to bend relative to each other in response to the motion of three separate tendons that extend through a channel on the palmar aspect of the finger, very much like the real thing.

The flexures eliminate the need for bearings at each joint and greatly decrease the complexity of the finger, but the model isn’t perfect. As [Adrian] points out, the off-center attachment for the tendons makes the finger tend to curl when the joints are in flexion, which isn’t how real fingers work. That should be a pretty easy fix, though. And while we appreciate the “one and done” nature of this print, we’d almost like to see the strap-like print-in-place tendons replaced with pieces of PLA filament added as a post-processing step, to make the finger more compact and perhaps easier to control.

Despite the shortcomings, and keeping in mind that this is clearly a proof of concept, we really like where [Adrian] is going with this, and we’re looking forward to seeing a hand with five Fingies, or four Fingies and a Thumbie. It stands to be vastly simpler than something like [Will Cogley]’s biomimetic hand, which while an absolute masterpiece of design, is pretty daunting for most of us to reproduce.

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Low-Cost Cryocooler Pumps Out Cheap DIY Liquid Nitrogen

A word of caution if you’re planning to try this cryocooler method for making liquid nitrogen: not only does it involve toxic and flammable gasses and pressures high enough to turn the works into a bomb, but you’re likely to deplete your rent account with money you’ll shell out for all the copper tubing and fittings. You’ve been warned.

In theory, making liquid nitrogen should be as easy as getting something cold enough that nitrogen in the air condenses. The “cold enough” part is the trick, and it’s where [Hyperspace Pirate]’s cryocooler expertise comes into play. His setup uses recycled compressors from cast-off air conditioners and relies on a mixed-gas Joule-Thomson cycle. He plays with several mixtures of propane, ethylene, methane, argon, and nitrogen, with the best results coming from argon and propane in a 70:30 percent ratio. A regenerative counterflow heat exchanger, where the cooled expanding gas flows over the incoming compressed gas to cool it, does most of the heavy lifting here, and is bolstered by a separate compressor that pre-cools the gas mixture to about -30°C before it enters the regenerative system.

There’s also a third compressor system that pre-cools the nitrogen process gas, which is currently supplied by a tank but will eventually be pulled right from thin air by a pressure swing adsorption system — basically an oxygen concentrator where you keep the nitrogen instead of the oxygen. There are a ton of complications in the finished system, including doodads like oil separators and needle valves to control the flow of liquid nitrogen, plus an Arduino to monitor and control the cycle. It works well enough to produce fun amounts of LN2 on the cheap — about a quarter of the cost of commercially made stuff — with the promise of efficiency gains to come.

It does need to be said that there’s ample room for peril here, especially containing high pressures within copper plumbing. Confidence in one’s brazing skills is a must here, as is proper hydro testing of components. That said, [Hyperspace Pirate] has done some interesting work here, not least of which is keeping expenses for the cryocooler to a minimum.

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Hackaday Links: July 14, 2024

We’ve been going on at length in this space about the death spiral that AM radio seems to be in, particularly in the automotive setting. Car makers have begun the process of phasing AM out of their infotainment systems, ostensibly due to its essential incompatibility with the electronics in newer vehicles, especially EVs. That argument always seemed a little specious to us, since the US has an entire bureaucracy dedicated to making sure everyone works and plays well with each other on the electromagnetic spectrum. The effort to drop AM resulted in pushback from US lawmakers, who threatened legislation to ensure every vehicle has the ability to receive AM broadcasts, on the grounds of its utility in a crisis and that we’ve spent billions ensuring that 80% of the population is within range of an AM station.

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Tiny Transceiver Gets It Done With One Transistor

When we first spotted the article about a one-transistor amateur radio transceiver, we were sure it was a misprint. We’ve seen a lot of simple low-power receivers using a single transistor, and a fair number of one-transistor transmitters. But both in one package with only a single active component? Curiosity piqued.

It turns out that [Ciprian Popica (YO6DXE)]’s design is exactly what it says on the label, and it’s pretty cool to boot. The design is an improvement on a one-transistor transceiver called “El Pititico” and is very petite indeed. The BOM has only about fifteen parts including a 2N2222 used as a crystal-controlled oscillator for both the transmitter and the direct-conversion receiver, along with a handful of passives and a coupe of hand-wound toroidal inductors. There’s no on-board audio section, so you’ll have to provide an external amplifier to hear the signals; some might say this is cheating a bit from the “one transistor” thing, but we’ll allow it. Oh, and there’s a catch — you have to learn Morse code, since this is a CW-only transmitter.

As for construction, [Ciprian] provides a nice PCB  layout, but the video below seems to show a more traditional “ugly style” build, which we always appreciate. The board lives in a wooden box small enough to get lost in a pocket. The transceiver draws about 1.5 mA while receiving and puts out a fairly powerful 500 mW signal, which is fairly high in the QRP world. [Ciprian] reports having milked a full watt out of it with some modifications, but that kind of pushes the transistor into Magic Smoke territory. The signal is a bit chirpy, too, but not too bad.

We love minimalist builds like these; they always have us sizing up our junk bin and wishing we were better stocked on crystals and toroids. It might be good to actually buckle down and learn Morse too.

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DIY Spacer Increases FDM Flow Rate For Faster, Better Printing

The host of problems to deal with when you’re feeling the need for FDM speed are many and varied, but high on the list is figuring out how to melt filament fast enough to accommodate high flow rates. Plus, the filament must be melted completely; a melty outside and a crunchy inside might be good for snacks, but not for 3D printing. Luckily, budget-minded hobbyists can build a drop-in booster to increase volumetric flow using only basic tools and materials.

[aamott]’s booster, which started life as a copper screw, is designed to replace the standard spacer in an extruder, with a bore that narrows as the filament gets closer to the nozzle to ensure that the core of the filament melts completely. Rather than a lathe, [aamott]’s main tool is a drill press, which he used to drill a 0.7 mm bore through the screw using a PCB drill bit. The hole was reamed out with a 10° CNC engraving bit, generating the required taper. After cutting off the head of the screw and cleaning up the faces, he cut radial slots into the body of the booster by threading the blade of a jeweler’s saw into the bore. The result was a bore wide enough to accept the filament on one end, narrowing to a (roughly) cross-shaped profile at the other.

Stacked up with a couple of knock-off Bondtech CHT nozzles, the effect of the booster was impressive — a 50% increase in flow rate. It’s not bad for a prototype made with simple tools, and it looks a little easier to build than [Stefan]’s take on the same idea.

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