How To Print PETG As Transparently As Possible

PETG filament can be had in a variety of colors, just like any other. You can even get translucent or transparent forms if you want to print something vaguely see-through. But if you’re looking for a bit more visually impressive, you might like to pick up a few tips from [Tej Grewal] on making sure your prints come out as clear as possible.

Standard print settings aren’t great for transparency.

It all comes down to pathing of the 3D printer’s hot end. If it’s zigzagging back and forth, laying down hot plastic in all different orientations from layer to layer, you’re going to get a hazy, ugly, result that probably doesn’t look very see-through at all.

However, you can work around this by choosing slicer settings that make the tool pathing more suitable for producing a clearer part. [Tej] recommends going slow — as little as 20 mm/s during printing. He also states that removing top and bottom shells and setting wall loops to 1 can help to produce a part that’s entirely infill. Then, you’ll want to set infill to 100% and the direction to 0 or 90 degrees. This will ensure your hot end is just making long, straight strokes for layer after layer that will best allow light to pass through. You’ll also want to maximize nozzle flow to avoid any unsightly gaps or bubbles in your print.

[Tej] demonstrates the technique by creating a cover for a display. By using the settings in question, he creates a far more transparent plate, compared to the original part that has an ugly zig-zagging haze effect. You’re not going to get something optically clear this way; the final results are more lightly frosted, but still good.

Transparency will never be something 3D printers are great at. However, we have seen some interesting post-processing techniques that will blow your mind in this regard.

Instant Sketch Camera Is Like A Polaroid That Draws

These days, everyone’s got a million different devices that can take a passable photo. That’s not special anymore. A camera that draws what it sees, though? That’s kind of fun. That’s precisely what [Jens] has built—an instant sketch camera!

The sketch camera looks like a miniature drawing easel, holding a rectangular slip of paper not dissimilar in size to the Polaroid film of old. The 3D-printed frame rocks a Raspberry Pi controlling a simple pen plotter, using SG90 servos to position the drawing implement and trace out a drawing. So far, so simple. The real magic is in the image processing, which takes any old photo with the Pi camera and turns it into a sketch in the first place. This is achieved with the OpenCV image processing library, using an edge detection algorithm along with some additional filtering to do the job.

If you’ve ever wanted to take Polaroids that looked like sketches when you’re out on the go, this is a great way to do it. We’ve featured some other great plotter builds before, too, just few that are as compact and portable as this one. Video after the break.

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Live Train Departure Screens Keep You Abreast Of Transit Developments

If you want to know when the train is coming, you could pull up a webpage on your phone, or walk all the way to the station to look at the displays there. Or, like [eastfamilyreddish], you could build a neat little train info display to decorate your desktop instead.

The build is based on the work of [gadec-uk]—who developed a train information display some time ago. It’s based around an ESP32 D1 Mini, paired with a 256 x 64 OLED screen to display relevant train information. It accesses a National Rail API for train status information—known as the Darwin LDBWS (Live Departure Board Webservice). Configuration is via a web GUI hosted by the ESP32 itself.

[eastfamilyreddish] took the concept further by adapting this hardware into a more pleasing form. The ESP32 and OLED screen are built into a neat little hanging sign setup that apes one you might expect to see at a real railway station. You might expect that 3D printing was involved, but instead, this was achieved with lasercut parts and resin casting to create something with a beautiful finish. They even went so far as to include a wireless phone charging module in the base, making the device extra useful to really earn its place on the desktop.

The fact is, around these parts we love both trains and the displays you find around them. If you’ve got a railway-adjacent project, or you’ve just built your own awesome railway, don’t hesitate to let us know on the tipsline!

Build Your Own Compact Temp Gun

Sometimes you need to know what temperature something is, but you don’t quite want to touch it. At times like these, you might want a temp gun on hand to get a good reading, like the one [Arnov Sharma] built.

The build is a relatively simple one, and is based around an Waveshare ESP32 C6 development module that comes with a small LCD screen out of the box. The microcontroller is set up to read an MLX90614 infrared temperature sensor. This device picks up the infrared energy that is emitted by objects relative to their temperature. The sensor has a great range—from -70 C to 380 C. The readouts from this sensor are then displayed on the screen. Battery power is from a small 600 mAh LiPo cell, which is managed by a IP5306 charge module.

It’s worth noting that these infrared temperature sensors aren’t infallible devices. The temperature they perceive is based on certain assumptions about factors like an objects emissivity. Thus, they don’t always give accurate readings on metallic or shiny objects, for example. It’s also important to understand the sensor’s field of view. Despite many commercial versions featuring a laser pointer for aiming, many of these infrared temperature sensors tend to average their reading over a small spot that gets larger the farther away they are from the object being measured.

Tools like portable temp guns are pretty cheap, but sometimes it’s just fun to build your own. Plus, you usually learn something along the way. Video after the break.

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USB DAC Comes With Graphic EQ

[shiura] had a problem — they wanted a nice high-quality audio output for their computer, but they didn’t fancy any of the DACs that were readily available on the market. They specifically wanted one that was affordable, capable, and included a graphic equalizer so they could simply hook it up to a regular amplifier and dial in the perfect sound. When they couldn’t find such a device, they decided to build their own.

The build is based around a Raspberry Pi Pico, chosen for its feature set that makes it easy to configure as a USB audio device. It’s paired with a Waveshare Pico Audio module, which is based on the PCM5101A stereo DAC and slots neatly on top of the microcontroller board. An SPI-controlled LCD screen was also fitted in order to display the graphic equalizer interface that [shiura] whipped up. The project write-up explains the code required to implement the equalizer in detail. A four-channel equalizer was possible on the original Pi Pico (RP2040), while upgrading to a more powerful Pi Pico 2 (RP2350) allowed implementing eight channels in total.

If you’re looking to build a digital audio system with the ability to do some equalization to suit your listening room, this might be a project of interest to you. We’ve featured other projects in this realm before, too.

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Damaged Pocket Computer Becomes Portable Linux Machine

The Sharp PC-G801 was an impressive little pocket computer when it debuted in 1988. However, in the year 2025, a Z80-compatible machine with just 8 kB of RAM is hardly much to get excited about. [shiura] decided to take one of these old machines and upgrade it into something more modern and useful.

The build maintains the best parts of the Sharp design — namely, the case and the keypad. The original circuit board has been entirely ripped out, and a custom PCB was designed to interface with the membrane keypad and host the new internals. [shiura] landed on the Raspberry Pi Zero 2W to run the show. It’s a capable machine that runs Linux rather well and has wireless connectivity out of the box. It’s paired with an ESP32-S3 microcontroller that handles interfacing all the various parts of the original Sharp hardware. It also handles the connection to the 256×64 OLED display. The new setup can run in ESP32-only mode, where it acts as a classic RPN-style calculator. Alternatively, the Pi Zero can be powered up for a full-fat computing experience.

The result of this work is a great little cyberdeck that looks straight out of the 1980s, but with far more capability. We’ve seen a few of these old pocket computers pop up before, too.

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Any Old TV Can Be A Clock With Arduino

If you’ve got an old black and white TV, it’s probably not useful for much. There are precious few analog broadcasters left in the world and black and white isn’t that fun to watch, anyway. However, with a little work, you could repurpose that old tube as a clock, as [mircemk] demonstrates.

The build is based around an Arduino Nano R3. This isn’t a particularly powerful microcontroller board, but it’s good enough to run the classic TVOut library. This library lets you generate composite video on an Atmel AVR microcontroller with an absolute minimum of supporting circuitry. [mircemk] paired the Arduino with a DS3231 real-time clock, and whipped up code to display the time and date on the composite video output. He then also demonstrates how to hack the signal into an old TV that doesn’t have a specific input for composite signals.

You’ll note the headline says “any old TV can be a clock,” and that’s for good reason. Newer TVs tend to eschew the classic composite video input, so the TVOut library won’t be any good if you’re trying to get a display up on your modern-era flatscreen. In any case, we’ve seen the TVOut library put to good use before, too. Video after the break.

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