Using Windows 11 On An LGA 775 PC With AGP Videocard

Although the thought of installing a modern operating system like Windows 11 on something as archaic as a Core 2 Quad Q6600 Intel CPU may seem ridiculous, it being the flagship CPU of the time means that it still chews up low-end Celeron systems that are on the supported hardware list like the N4020. Hence [Omores] commencing on this latest adventure, with the snag being that the chosen mainboard features an AGP bus that Windows 11 no longer supports.

A GPU box from the related HD 4670 PCIe card, not the used HD 4650 AGP card with 1 GB of DDR2. (Credit: Omores, YouTube)
A GPU box from the related HD 4670 PCIe card, not the used HD 4650 AGP card with 1 GB of DDR2.

This system is intended to multi-boot a range of Windows OSes starting with Windows 98, while also playing nice with DOS and even Windows 11. In addition to the quad-core, 2.4 GHz Q6600 there’s also an amazing 3 GB of DDR1 RAM in the system.

The mainboard is the 2003-era Asrock 865PE, with the GPU being the highest-end GPU that still came in AGP flavor: the Radeon HD 4650 from 2009. Since the sole reason that Windows 11 doesn’t support AGP any more is due to the supporting files not being included with Windows 11, hence you can track it down on a Windows 10 1507 release install – such as the Intel AGP440.sys driver here – and install them with some file editing.

Since Windows 11 still supports the WDDM driver model from Windows Vista and 7 you can then install the Catalyst drivers from 2012 and be up and running. You only get 1 GB of VRAM for this card, but you probably don’t need much more on this level of hardware.

One major stumbling block remains, however, as Windows 11 24H2 enforces SSE4.2 instructions which the CPU doesn’t support. Ergo 23H2 is the newest Windows 11 version that can run on this system, with only the Education and Enterprise still receiving security updates, making it a bit of a pyrrhic victory, especially as Windows 7 benchmarks a fair bit faster on the same hardware.

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Using Electrolysis For More Than Just Generating Hydrogen

When the topic of ‘electrolysis’ is mentioned, people typically think of just splitting plain old dihydrogen monoxide (hydric acid: H2O) into its constituent atoms, but this barely scratches the surface of what is going on during electrolysis. Once you understand the full picture it also becomes obvious how electrolysis can be used for other tasks, including metal refining, flow batteries and more, as covered in a recent video by [NightHawkInLight].

On a fundamental level electrolysis is what it says on the tin: a way to lyse (i.e. split apart) using electrons, which is what the anode and cathode provide or remove. This can be used to break down the bonds between hydrogen and oxygen, but also those of iron ore, like Fe3O4. Stripping the oxygen from the iron atoms is commonly done in a reduction process using the CO from coke or hydrogen,

Setup for electrolysing iron ore. (Credit: NightHawkInLight, YouTube)
Setup for electrolysing iron ore.

By instead dissolving the iron ore in acid, electrolysis can then be used to separate the two. In the example, the acid is created by one side of the electrolytic cell, with both electrodes separated by an ion-exchange membrane barrier that prevents the chemical processes on each side of the cell to affect the other side while still enabling the cell to work. How to make these membranes is also demonstrated in the video.

Through a careful arrangement of these membranes and the electrodes, you can guide which reactions can occur where, and which – negative or positively charged – ion can pass through which membrane, giving a lot of control. It can also be used to prevent undesirable reactions from happening, such as in this case the generating of chlorine gas from the NaCl being lysed.

Acidity indicator dye is used to show in great detail how the cell works, including its preparation of getting the acidity just right before the crushed iron ore is mixed with some of the generated acid and the resulting liquid added to the cell. Following this you get a closed-loop chemical process to which only fresh iron ore slush has to be added and electrodes swapped out for fresh ones as the build-up of iron becomes sufficiently thick. In addition to supplying the cell with electricity, naturally, though you can even invert the cell and use it as a chemical battery akin to a lead-acid one if that’s more your thing.

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Connecting Your Car To Home Assistant

With how much time many of us spend in our cars, it makes perfect sense to consider them a second home. Yet even if that’s not the case, there are still good reasons to connect a car to one’s smart home solution like Home Assistant, such as to keep track of certain parameters for easy monitoring and reminders. This is what [The Stock Pot] channel recently demonstrated using a widget that connects to the OBD-II port inside the car, as not every car comes with its own app yet.

The used dongle is the ESP32-S3-based WiCAN from Australian company MeatPi. This device runs the open source WiCAN firmware. After plugging the dongle into the OBD-II port of the car, the device powers on and can be configured via Wi-Fi like any other smart device these days. After that it’s just another Wi-Fi device on the network.

Since each car’s ECU will represent data differently, you need a car-specific configuration, which can take some tweaking. The idea of integrating with Home Assistant is directly supported by MeatPi, with a handy documentation page. Of course [The Stock Pot] shared their configuration if you want to feel inspired. Among the parameters monitored you get things like fuel level, days to service and coolant temperature.

Although you could make the argument that it mostly saves you from having to waddle over to the car to check the data there, being able to remotely access the OBD-II port of a car does seem rather practical even outside of home automation concepts, such as gathering performance statistics and early failure warnings, especially for aspects like tire pressure and unhappy engine or BEV battery conditions that can quickly go from an inconvenience to very expensive.

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Ways To Embed Magnets In 3D Prints And Not Ruin Printers

Adding magnets to a 3D print can be very useful in a design, but there are some things that can trip you up if you’re not aware of them. In a recent video by [Lost in Tech] some of the essentials are covered, including why you shouldn’t get magnets near most extruder nozzles or the printing bed.

The easiest method is of course to add magnets in after printing, using friction fit with or without ribs, or with a dab of glue. Here making sure that the magnet stays in place is the trick, as you do not want the magnet to get lost or end up in the tummy of a curious pet or toddler.

The magnetic pattern on an FDM printer's magnetic bed. (Credit: Lost in Tech, YouTube)
The magnetic pattern on an FDM printer’s magnetic bed.

Things get spicy when you’re talking about adding magnets during the printing process, as some extruders are made of a ferromagnetic material and thus a magnet will happily stick to said nozzle if it’s not pure brass or similar. As seen in the video even some purported ‘brass’ nozzles aren’t pure enough to not be significantly ferromagnetic.

Another issue is that of heat, which is something that magnets generally do not like much. Using magnets like you’d use heat inserts for bolts is a recipe for disaster, as the heat from a soldering iron will demagnetize the magnet, which for the typical magnet is less than 200°C. At least this should mean that the magnet stuck to your extruder nozzle will eventually fall off by itself after it demagnetizes.

With the bed of the typical FDM printer these days you’re talking about magnetically attached plates, with the underlying heated bed using a Halbach array configuration as is typical of flat magnets, yet with the gotcha that these aren’t typically real Halbach arrays, but knock-offs with simply alternating north-south pole magnets. As it turns out, these types of magnetic arrays can be disturbed by another magnet, such as a powerful neodymium magnet near said printing bed, flipping polarity in a way that cannot be easily undone.

You can still install magnets during printing, but it’s recommended to use something like side-insertion, where the extruder nozzle cannot pull out a magnet. Regardless of your approach, it’s good to know of the risks with ferromagnetic nozzles, the magnetic bed and treating magnets like they’re just heat inserts. While you can get higher-temperature magnets, many of the same issues still remain here.

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Fixing A Nintendo Game Boy Clone That Runs Too Fast

There’s no shortage of cloned Nintendo hardware out there, and most of it is pretty poor. A few are actually pretty interesting though, such as the GB Boy by Gangfeng, which takes real cartridges and thus in many ways should provide the original Game Boy Pocket experience with modern hardware. But as you might imagine, even the best of the clones comes with various technical issues at no additional charge — with this particular unit having a habit of running the game too fast. It’s an issue that [Sharopolis] addresses in a recent video with a partial fix.

As can be seen in the demonstration, it runs games just too fast to make it very usable or fun, hence why it sat in a drawer for a few years after purchasing off AliExpress. This raises the question of what’s wrong with these units, as others report similar issues with this and other ‘GB Boy’ variants.

Fortunately the unit is easy to open, revealing the PCB with a couple of chips on it, one marked KF2001 being the brains of the operation alongside two memory chips. The crystal resonator marked X1 for the main IC is rated for 5 MHz, whereas a quick look inside the Game Boy Pocket shows that its crystal resonator runs at 4.1943 MHz, which is a bit of a difference.

Because of how buying components and pricing works, [Sharopolis] ended up with a reel of 100 of replacement resonators with the right parameters for a drop-in replacement. After swapping the resonator, the GB Boy now does indeed run games at the right speed, but a new issue has now cropped up in the form of flicker on the display.

In the comments it’s suggested that replacing the cheap capacitors on the GB Boy’s board can help here, but it highlights just how these clone systems keep managing to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory by pairing what looks to be a pretty good IC with either the wrong or sub-par components.

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Distilling Stale Gasoline To Make It Usable Again

Pouring the resulting distillate for testing. (Credit: Lowered Expectations, YouTube)
Pouring the resulting distillate for testing. (Credit: Lowered Expectations, YouTube)

The propensity of gasoline to ‘go stale’ through the process of oxidation is the reason why gasoline that has been stored for a long period of time is considered to be unusable, as it will no longer combust property. Since this process creates the sludge that you find in the bottom of an old gasoline canister, it follows that you may be able to distill out the still good gasoline. With this reasoning, [Joel] over at the [Lowered Expectations] channel set to work to try out this theory.

As part of his job of maintaining things like pressure washers, he got access to many grades of stale gasoline to experiment with. After a short demonstration of how poorly these grades of stale gasoline burn it’s on to the main distillation event. To the stale gasoline aluminium oxide is added as both a catalyst and to create nucleation sites that will prevent ‘bumping’ where you suddenly get a surge out of the heated flask.

Of course, that this is incredibly dangerous should be obvious, and the lack of PPE on the side of [Joel] is somewhat worrying. On the positive side, he does take it easy with ramping up the temperature on the gasoline to try and find the sweet spot where production seems sufficient. This turned out to start at 70°C in the flask when the condenser began to receive its first load of presumably clean-ish gasoline.

The goal here is of course to approximate the function of the fractionating column (‘distillation tower’) at refineries at smaller scale, which [Joel] appears to be doing correctly with what looks to be a Vigreaux column. Since the base product is gasoline with oxidized contaminants this process is of course quite different, so he goes through the different temperature ranges to see what kind of distillate he gets, up to nearly 200°C before calling it.

Ultimately 880 mL of the initial 1 L was collected, with the various distillates combined for testing. Unfortunately none of the testing is actually covered in the video, but it is mentioned at the end that a second batch of the distillate was used to power his car, so presumably it works.

Suffice it to say that ‘works’ doesn’t mean that it is safe, of course. Heating such stale gasoline produces many highly flammable and combustible substances, along with many that are just downright bad for your health to be exposed to. The plethora of very short-term to all the way to very long-term health effects this may cause should be obvious.

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Texas Instruments Changes The NE5532 And Others Into Incompatible Versions

First introduced in 1979 by Signetics, the NE5532 was a pretty spiffy dual op-amp for the time with low noise and low distortion. Over the years it has become a standard part that showed up in countless audio products, and has become a so-called jellybean generic component with Texas Instruments (TI) being one of countless manufacturers.

It being such a standard, multi-sourced part makes it thus even more puzzling that TI has now decided to completely overhaul this IC in a way that makes it incompatible with even the original Signetics NE5532. These changes are covered in detail by [Dave] of EEVblog as his mind is pretty much blown at such an incomprehensible change.

The changes entail an entirely different manufacturing process and a big change in specifications, while making no change to the part number. In revision K of the TI datasheet these changes are first seen, with some specifications changed for the better, like a higher unity gain bandwidth by 2 MHz, but a much slower slew rate.

Kramer Electronics PT-102AN - board - Texas Instruments SA5532A
Texas Instruments SA5532A variant of the 5532 op-amp. (Credit: Raimond Spekking, Wikimedia)

Although the 5532 op-amps are multi-sourced, there are good reasons to just stick with manufacturers like TI, as that means receiving a product change notification (PCN) when anything changes. In the PCN related to this op-amp a change to process node is noted, along with other changes, but no reasoning.

Among the other big changes are a reduction in the supply voltage from 22 V to 18 V, and a halving of the ESD protection from 2 kV to 1 kV. Although it might be slightly more efficient on the new process node this way, it clearly comes with a lot of trade-offs that make it an overall worse op-amp, while also being incompatible with the same op-amp from other manufacturers.

In the video [Dave] goes through the datasheets of this jellybean part of other manufacturers, showing that they still have the original 1980s specifications. Only one exception here was the NE5532DR from Shenzhen HuaXuanYang Electronics, whose supply rail voltage is also 18 V for some reason, along with a similar internal transistor configuration that reduces the ESD resistance.

In addition to the NE5532 op-amp, it seems that TI also took an axe to the OPA134 op-amp, by removing its offset trim feature and listing the pins as ‘NC’, with a warning to not connect these pins and also worsening other specifications. This makes these similar jellybean parts incompatible, with no change to the part number. Worse is that it continues with the LMH6518, whose changes [Dave] argues might even kill oscilloscopes as they are commonly found in those.

Meanwhile the LM317M also got an overhaul, but here TI opted to give it a new part name, calling it the LM317MQ with at first glance no major degradations in the specifications, but instead some actual improvements. This makes it even more puzzling why TI didn’t give the other ICs a new part number to differentiate them from the jellybean part.

Until there’s some clarification from the side of TI, it might be a good idea to source these parts from a manufacturer that is not TI, especially when replacing these ICs in older devices.

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