Reviving The PoE++ Feature On A Ubiquiti Switch

Recently [The Parallel Port] was asked to take a look at repairing the PoE++ feature on a Ubiquiti switch that otherwise worked fine. This is a pretty nice 24-port rackmounted switch with 2.5 Gbit-capable RJ-45 ports and two 10 Gbit SFP+ ports, so by itself it’s pretty useful, but having the 400 Watt PoE feature just go AWOL still stings, especially if you bought it new for $800.

With power applied the switch starts up as normal, including its 1.3″ touch screen that provides direct port information as well as a fancy screensaver cum QR code for the AR feature.

After logging into the switch’s BusyBox console it showed that all ports reported bad for the PwrGood status, and there were PoE power status request errors in the log, but this could be just the consequence of something else. Using a PoE splitter it was confirmed that the PoE functionality was indeed dead.

After disassembly and some testing with a multimeter and thermal camera, a short and related hot spot on the PCB that the PoE power board connects to was identified, with the short persisting after removing this PCB from the switch. Since the switch had suffered a bit of an electrical event the TVS diode was checked, but it turned out to be fine.

Next to it, marked as fuses, were protective thyristor surge protection devices (Trisil), functioning as a crowbar device. These aren’t supposed to be shorted to ground until a surge event occurs, but these were indeed both shorted when measured directly. Clearly they had taken the brunt of the electrical event and sacrificed themselves in the process.

One replacement later of these devices the switch now happily reports a good PoE status and even was able to power a DC fan via the PoE splitter. Even if it wasn’t a particularly hard fix, this is definitely one of those cases where knowing how the protective circuit works can save a lot of time in diagnosing and fixing a fault.

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UDP Broadcasting And The Brave New World Of IPv6

After recently working our way through UDP broadcasting and network subnetting all in the comfort zone of IPv4, it’s time to address the elephant in the room, the one wearing a bright neon ‘IPv6’ sign. Although it’s still very much a rumor at this point, supposedly IPv6 is slated to replace the venerable IPv4 protocol. Rather than just being IPv4-but-with-more-addresses, its designers took the opportunity to basically completely redesign the protocol for the futuristic world of the late 90s and the early 2000s.

Joking aside, IPv6 having been introduced in 1995 and still struggling to meaningfully displace IPv4 does invite some worries about just how easy it is to switch between these two fundamental internet protocols. Say if we wanted to join the future of the 2000s and adapt our software to speak IPv6 instead of IPv4, what would change about the aforementioned aspects of IPv4 UDP broadcasting and IPv4 subnetting?

Speaking as an ignorant developer who mostly knows IPv6 from those weird and hard to remember network addresses, as well as many broken router implementations, I’m not entirely convinced that I’m going to like what I’ll see.

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A Mini’s Infotainment System And The Joys Of Aftermarket Car Parts

Although [Arkandas] disclaims any interest in being a ‘car guy’, this is somewhat ironic in light of the sheer amount of modding he has performed on a range of cars over the years, a recent misadventure involving a BMW Mini F56’s infotainment system replacement and some light ECU reprogramming included. What happened exactly is covered in a detailed breakdown in a blog post.

The old iDrive infotainment system in the Mini. (Credit: Arkandas)
The old iDrive infotainment system in the Mini. (Credit: Arkandas)

One of the aspects that [Arkandas] disliked about this car was its iDrive infotainment system, itself a stripped-down version of the full-fat infotainment system in ‘real’ BMW cars, with a small screen and awkward UX. The idea was to replace this with a more full-featured modern system.

Since the infotainment system does hook into the car’s CAN buses and other systems it has to be compatible, of course. This took some research before ultimately a fancy €700 aftermarket replacement was ordered from a Chinese seller.

Long story short, the device was mostly compatible aside from a connector wired wrongly and creating a short. This was fixed, but then the loosely fitted display toppled off during a test drive and broke, so a replacement screen was ordered. This screen arrived without requisite factory programming, so [Arkandas] embarked on a long reverse-engineering session.

Before he was able to extract firmware from the broken display and flash it onto the new display he was offered a brand-new replacement for the whole device, which he accepted in return for sending the old unit back. Although this still left him with a range of questions, at least the new infotainment looks pretty spiffy.

The worst part about the whole experience was just how much waiting and agonizing over poor after-sale support was involved, along with all the things that can go wrong and turn a fun afternoon of fitting shiny new parts into a months-long ordeal. Since modern cars are basically just a stack of computers on wheels, this ensures that even ‘not car guys’ will be doing a lot more of such fun car modding.

Forget Trees, Add Fins To Your 3D Prints Instead

Perhaps one of the most contentious issues in 3D printing is that of supports, both because they’re an uncomfortable reminder of how gravity affects our prints and because the very idea of there being ‘one right way’ is bound to get you into some spirited discussions. That said, [Matthew Trahan] figured that neither regular grid supports nor organic tree supports are the answer here, and that the better answer is found in fins.

The problem with existing support approaches especially with FDM prints is that they can be fairly wasteful in terms of material, and they can leave serious marks on the printed object’s surface that require post-processing. These fins on the other hand are designed to require as little material as possible and snap off as cleanly as possible. The tool, developed with the assistance of Claude, can either run locally or be accessed via printfins.com.

Currently the idea is that these fins are baked directly into the STL model so that it’s a one-time thing, but it may eventually become available as a slicer plugin. The basic concept was pitched by [Slant3D], who gets credited in the video below, although in their approach they used CAD software to add the fin supports manually.

The fins are there to provide the support base, while small tines can be added to reinforce the connection to the model. These do make it less easy to snap off with minimal scarring, of course. Conceivably these fins could be made even more light-weight by adding gaps, but that probably would add to the print time.

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Why Raindrops Make For Pretty Good Antennae

A good rule of thumb is that everything that can interact with electromagnetic (EM) radiation is an antenna, which includes our mostly-salty-water-containing bodies and also raindrops and moisture in the air. This can be both a benefit or a curse, depending on whether you’re trying to broadcast a signal in rainy weather or operating a weather radar. Here it’s essential to understand what kind of antenna a raindrop really is to optimize for either scenario, which is where a video by [Marshall Bruner] provides a solid primer.

The video focuses on the Rayleigh regime, which may be familiar from atmospheric Rayleigh scattering that also affects EM radiation in the visible spectrum, giving those of us gifted with retinas capable of color vision those nice blue skies.

As the EM radiation passes through these little droplets in the air, their neutral alignment gets disrupted and causes them to turn into dipole antennae, moving along with the incoming frequency. The backscatter part of this event is what returns to the emitter, such as a weather radar. Here the volume and permittivity of the moisture sphere determines the strength of the signal, which is great if you’re actually operating a weather radar and wants to map out the moisture in some clouds, including the presence of snow.

There’s quite a lot of mathematics involved which is covered in the video and expanded upon in a related Python notebook.

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Determining The Body Temperature Of Tyrannosaurus Rex

One of the most fun challenges in paleontology is determining characteristics of long-dead species like their behavior and body temperature based on nothing but some fossils and traces that are usually millions of years old. Something that has long vexed the paleontological community for example has been the question whether non-avian dinosaurs like the well-known Tyrannosaurus rex was cold- or warm-blooded, and if the latter, what temperature this was. Cue a recent study by [Randon J. Flores] et al. in Science Advances in which they seek to answer this question.

Although modern-day dinosaurs in the form of birds are all warm-blooded – meaning capable of regulating their body temperature – species like crocodiles, who also lived alongside non-avian dinosaurs, are cold-blooded and have to cycle between sun-basking and a cool dip in a nearby river to maintain their body temperature.

By looking at the temperature-dependent formation of carbonate clumped isotopes in three T. rex teeth from the Late Cretaceous Hell Creek Formation, they were able to deduce that these dinosaurs had a body temperature of 36.3 ± 2.5°C, comparable to modern-day endotherms. This was also much higher than that of contemporary crocodilian teeth found in the same area.

When popular dinosaur movies like Jurassic Park showed T. rex and other non-avian dinosaurs as being active, warm-blooded hunters, this was pretty much based on cutting-edge science at the time. Fortunately for its creators, later paleontological findings have largely confirmed that portrayal, although these days non-avian dinosaurs have often gained more feathers and other details – even outside of feathered theropods that became birds – that were absent in these early 90s reconstructions.

Raspberry Pi Locks Down RAM Upgrades

In a recent video [Jeff Geerling] addresses an issue discovered with the Raspberry Pi firmware, specifically how since around 2024 the firmware locks down what RAM size and even module is supported. This isn’t an issue that is widely known, probably because most people just use the board as-is, but it can be an unpleasant surprise for those looking to upgrade or repair their Pi.

Naturally there is a valid reason for wanting to prevent unscrupulous RAM module changes, with a [Geekworm] blog post from earlier this year detailing this exact issue and how each board is marked with a specific code that identifies the model, RAM size, RAM manufacturer and such. Based on the earlier linked forum post and also a 2025-era GitHub ticket on the rpi-eeprom project, the resulting symptoms seem to vary from not seeing the additional RAM to the board not booting at all.

Although you can go back to an older EEPROM firmware image to work around this, it’s still very annoying that this is even a thing. As also noted by [Jeff], the primary frustration here is probably one of ownership. When you can upgrade the RAM on just about any device you can buy, including a modern GPU and even Apple computer, but not on a Raspberry Pi board that loves to flaunt its open source/hardware credentials, then something is very much off.

In the end it’s highly unfortunate that Raspberry Pi has chosen this path that feels a bit too much like the hardware pairing that companies like Apple got rightfully called out on.

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