Is Manual Filament Tuning Still Worth It?

In this era of consumer-grade FDM printers that have automatic bed levelling, automatic pressure advance tuning, automatic temperature regulation and so on buttoned away behind bullet-proof presets and automation, something as archaic as manual filament tuning does seem a bit out of place. Unless you’re running that hot rod Voron FDM printer, does it make sense to ‘waste time’ with manual tuning your off-the-shelf FDM printer? In a recent video [MandicReally] argues that it still makes sense to unlock more performance.

Up front it’s made clear that these auto-tuned configurations are perfectly fine for the average user, who will be perfectly happy with something like a ‘generic PLA’ preset combined with whatever auto-configuration the printer did. That said, not every filament is the same, nor is each heating element, nozzle and feeding system. In that sense it can be worth it to take a deeper look.

In the video basic aspects like preparing the material, such as properly drying, are looked at, before running through tests for temperature, flow ratio and rate, pressure advance, retraction speeds, material shrinkage etc. before doing a test between such a tuned profile versus a generic preset for ASA filament.

Although the difference isn’t night and day, the tuned profile was faster due to less conservative settings and had better accuracy on the final print due to taking the target FDM printer’s performance into account. Even if not something that the average hobbyist would be interested in, if you’re doing something like production runs with FDM, this might be something you’d want to look at.

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Fixing A Dead Makita Battery With A 20 Cent Part

That's not what an NTC should be reading. (Credit: The Repair Forge, YouTube)
That’s not what an NTC should be reading. (Credit: The Repair Forge, YouTube)

It’s no real secret that battery packs for power tools aren’t the foremost when it comes to user serviceability, so if said battery pack suddenly stops charging outside of warranty, you generally just e-waste it. That’s what [The Repair Forge] could have done for the Makita battery pack in question, but instead it was opened up for a diagnosis and fix.

Rather than the charger throwing up an error with this specific battery, it would flash its red LED and run its fan, but never actually start the charging process. Apparently the charger seems to think that the battery is either too hot or cold to be charged, which already gives a big hint as to what might be wrong.

Using the open source PocketOBI tool it’s possible to query the battery, which showed that one of the internal thermistors reported the battery being at a chilly -30°C while the other a more reasonable 28°C. After popping open the pack and measuring the thermistors, the faulty one registered as infinite resistance thus confirming that it had failed.

By putting in a temporary resistor this diagnosis was confirmed, thus the next step will be to replace said thermistor. This same procedure was then used with a second battery, whose thermistor read a wild 64°C.

Overall it’s a pretty easy fix, using a 20 cent part, with the entirety of diagnosis to repair taking maybe ten minutes when using a tool like PocketOBI, itself based on the great Open Battery Information project that originally reverse-engineered the Makita battery protocol.

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Turning A Toy Game Boy Into A Real Game Boy

In the world of children’s toys there are many offerings which are meant to look like devices used by older kids or even adults, with the Fisher Price Laugh & Learn Lil’ Gamer toy bearing quite the resemblance to Nintendo’s iconic Game Boy. Although this factoid could be filed away as amusing trivia before passing said toy to a child for its requisite physical abuse by said child, a purported adult can still have a lot of fun with this toy by modding it into a real Game Boy, as [KOUZEX] recently did.

Part of the challenge here is to not just treat it as an unconventional replacement shell for a genuine Game Boy, but to retain as much of the child toy’s look and feel as possible. This includes things like buttons and even the weird sliding blocks on the side.

For the functional components a Game Boy Color with a busted screen was chosen as a donor, with the GBC mainboard fitting almost perfectly inside its new shell. Wires were then soldered to bridge Nintendo’s PCB with the toy’s PCB to make the original buttons and speaker work. After blowing a fuse on the GBC mainboard due to likely some power back feeding, the toy’s PCB had its non-essential parts stripped, but fortunately without further damage to the grafted in electronics.

Most of this mod is quite straightforward, just with some creativity required to add a Select and Start button as these were notably absent from the original. The new, rather large replacement OLED screen is a nice upgrade too and actually fits pretty well with the chunky look of the child’s toy. Even as mostly a joke mod, it seems surprisingly functional.

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Running DOOM On A Cheap 104-in-One Handheld

Taking a break from putting DOOM on devices that absolutely were never conceived for use as gaming devices, [Aaron Christophel] recently got enticed by some cheapo handheld gaming systems at his local Action budget store. One is a controller-shaped ‘mini game console’ with 104 games from the 1980s and 1990s, while the other is simply a Pac-Man handheld in a more typical rectangular form factor. Although this brings to mind basic blob chips and limited hacking potential, as it turns out they’re actually quite nice inside.

As also covered in the demonstration video, rather than said nasty blob chip, both handhelds turned out to use the same unmarked MCU in QFN48 packaging. Some prodding and poking confirmed that it’s a typical ARM core, specifically a Cortex-M33 compatible STAR-MC1 ARMv8-M from an unknown manufacturer. Without a datasheet to go by, its limitations had to be discovered experimentally.

Of those, the biggest were a clock speed of 62 MHz – instead of the typical 194 MHz – as well as a lack of sound. This latter issue might be fixable with a better understanding of what appears to be a quirky DMA-fed DAC. Beyond this you’re also dealing with limited memory and of course just 4 MB of flash, though the chip for this might be upgradable if the MCU can map more. You do get a 320×240 display and a lot of buttons, which is admittedly nice.

As for the price difference of around $8/€7 for the Pac-Man version, this appears to be due to it running an officially licensed Bandai Namco arcade emulator as firmware, while the 104-in-one unit runs FlyThings/ZKSWE with a NES emulator.

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Teardown Of An Oxford Nanopore MinION DNA Sequencer

Detail of the nanopore chip. (Credit: mikeselectricstuff, YouTube)
Detail of the nanopore chip. (Credit: mikeselectricstuff, YouTube)

For most people the term ‘DNA sequencing’ probably brings to mind large, expensive laboratory equipment in sterile rooms, but over the past decades technological progress really has had its way with it, to the point where it’s now just another small portable device. Something like the Oxford Nanopore MinION unit that [Mike] recently took to bits to ogle at the intricate insides.

This device was trialed in 2014 in a limited release before its commercial release in 2015, with this paper by [Miten Jain] et al. in Genome Biology detailing the workings of this nanopore sequencer. At a mere $2,000 it’s rather remarkable how affordable it is, though this comes with the caveat of the consumables, which are also shown in the video. These come in at a cool £690 per unit, can sequence either RNA or DNA and can be used at most a few times before they need to be replaced.

The main unit is fairly simple, featuring a Xilinx Spartan 6 FPGA and a rather nice slim fan-based cooling solution. For the nanopore unit you get the typical microfluidics system, to guide the deposited fluid containing the genetic material to sequence over the nanopore system. In here we see the actual magic as well, in the form of the high-density pitch ICs on both sides of the PCB inside the consumable sequencer unit.

Although this particular unit got discontinued already, the consumables are still available for it if you are feeling the sequencing itch. Of course, we’re likely to see the costs for DNA and RNA sequencing to keep plummeting, as what were once complex chips get overtaken once again by the progress of technology.

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The Physics Of Keeping Thermal Power Stations Cool

Recently thermal power stations have been in the news quite a bit, mostly in the context of them being throttled back or shut down due to the river water used to cool them either getting too warm or said river having dropped to a level where it can no longer provide cooling water. Obviously this is a problem, but it helps to understand how we got to this point and what can be done to fix it.

Thermal power stations – also called power plants – come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, ranging from old-school coal- and gas-fueled power stations to modern nuclear power plants. Something like a concentrated solar power (CSP) station is also a thermal power station, as all of them have a heat source that’s used to generate electricity from, whether that’s a boiler, nuclear reactor core or a big vat of sodium heated up by the Sun via massive mirrors or oil-filled tubes in parabolic throughs.

Except for open-cycle gas turbines (OCGTs) – which are basically jet engines connected to a generator – this thermal energy is then used to generate steam that drives a steam turbine. Once most energy in the steam has been depleted, it has to be condensed back into e.g. water, so that it can be led back to the steam generator. How this condensing step is performed is the question here, with a number of methods available.

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Creating A Supersonic Trebuchet

As awesome as trebuchets are, the fact that medieval engineers didn’t create versions capable of launching supersonic projectiles is a bit of a bummer. Fortunately it’s possible to correct this oversight with modern insights and technologies, as [Tom Stanton] demonstrates in a recent video.

While a traditional trebuchet is fairly straightforward, using a heavy weight moving an arm around a pivot that has the projectile attached to the other side, a few tweaks can make it much more lethal. One change is to have the projectile’s rope wound around the arm, forcing an additional pass around the arm to gain velocity. The other is to use a gearing system which uses the dropping weight’s energy more efficiently.

One complication here is that the arm now takes a few rotations to come up to speed, meaning that the release of the payload has to be controlled exactly, with only about an 0.0025 second release window. The solution was both low-tech and effective: since the arm is attached to a drum that the rope is wound onto, the moment enough rope is unwound from the dropping weight, a latch inside the drum is released to launch the projectile.

In a first test with a 10 kg weight, the projectile reached a velocity of around 528 km/h, which definitely was a good start, but also showed just how not aerodynamic the arm was. Some redesigns later of the entire trebuchet, the entire system was tested again with 10 kg and achieved a projectile velocity of 634 km/h. From there it was time to ramp up the weight to the full 40 kg, which theoretically should hit supersonic speeds.

Unfortunately the first attempt hit a mere 1,152 km/h (716 mph), which is just shy of the sound barrier at 1,235 km/h at 39% system efficiency and some components clearly breaking apart. Some more redesigns later and with a lighter projectile at 4 grams, a 40 kg weight achieved an arm speed of 2,342 rpm. The projectile now left the sling with 346.4 m/s, or 1,249 km/h, with an audible snap as the sound barrier got broken.

Even if the era of trebuchets in warfare is well and truly past, they remain fascinating physics demonstrations, with this case in point.

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