Studying A Battle Born LFP Battery’s Death Under Controlled Conditions

The test setup for the Battle Born LFP cycling. (Credit: Will Prowse, YouTube)
The test setup for the Battle Born LFP cycling. (Credit: Will Prowse, YouTube)

There has been quite a bit of news recently about the  Battle Born LiFePO4 (LFP) batteries and how they are dying in droves if not outright melting their plastic enclosures. Although the subsequent autopsies show molten plastic spacers on the bus bars and discolored metal in addition to very loose wiring, it can be educational to see exactly what is happening during repeated charge-discharge cycles at a fraction of the battery’s rated current. Thus [Will Prowse] recently sacrificed another Battle Born 75 Ah LFP battery to the Engineering QA Gods.

This time around the battery was hooked up to test equipment to fully graph out the charging and discharging voltage and current as it was put through its paces. To keep the battery as happy as possible it was charged and discharged at a mere 49A, well below its rated 100A.

Despite this, even after a mere 14 cycles the battery’s BMS would repeatedly disconnect the battery, as recorded by the instruments. Clearly something wasn’t happy inside the battery at this point, but the decision was made to push it a little bit harder while still staying well below the rated current.

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Teardown Of A 2026 LEGO SMART Brick

LEGO SMART brick from its side. (Credit: EvilmonkeyzDesignz, YouTube)
LEGO SMART brick from its side. (Credit: EvilmonkeyzDesignz, YouTube)

At the beginning of March this year LEGO released their new SMART brick, which looks like a 2×4 stud brick and is filled to the brim with sensors, LEDs, NFC and Bluetooth functionality, as well as a purported custom ASIC. The central idea behind it appears to be to add a lot of interactivity to LEGO builds while allowing for mesh-style communication with other SMART bricks. Naturally, this makes it a great subject for a teardown, which is what [EvilmonkeyzDesignz] over on YouTube did in a recent video.

Normally the only way you can purchase one of these new bricks is by buying them as part of a ‘Smart Play’ set, but someone was selling singular bricks on EBay. As the brick is inductively recharged, it’s pretty well-sealed, requiring a fairly destructive opening method.

Directly below the transparent top is a speaker, with the opposing PCB on the main body containing a microphone as well as a number of RGB LEDs. On the opposite side of this PCB we find the photo sensor, but to get to this part of the PCB the copper wires that wrap around the entire main assembly have to be disconnected from the PCB’s side pads with some force as they’re apparently pressed in place without the use of solder.

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Running Windows 98 On The IPAQ IA-2 Internet Appliance

Devices that were limited to only run a web browser were relatively common around 2000, as many people wanted to surf the Information Super Highway, but didn’t quite want to get a regular PC — being in many ways the retro equivalent of a Chromebook. The Compaq iPAQ IA-2 from 2000 that [Dave Luna] got is no exception, with a Microsoft CE-based OS that is meant to be used with Microsoft Network (MSN) dial-up, which amusingly is still available today.

In order to get a more useful OS on it, like Windows 98, you have to jump through quite a few hoops, as [Dave] found out. Although there is an IDE connection on the mainboard, this cannot be booted from, likely due to BIOS limitations. This means that he had to chain boot via the 16 MB NAND Flash drive that the original OS booted from, which was done by writing MS-DOS to the Flash drive using another workaround as it’s not a standard IDE device either.

From this you can then boot Windows 98 from an IDE drive by pretending that it’s an ATAPI IDE device to dodge a limitation on IDE devices. The system’s hardware isn’t really going to make it into a blazing fast retro computer. It only has a 266 MHz Geode GX1 CPU and supports up to 256 MB of SDRAM. The IA-2 is also limited to 800×600, which required the use of an external monitor (as seen above) hooked up to the internal VGA port to set the proper resolution in the OS.

But at least it can run DOOM, so that bare minimum requirement can be ticked off.

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Forgetfulino Puts Back Up Of Source Inside The Binary

How often have you pulled out old MCU-based project that still works fine, but you have no idea where the original source code has gone? Having the binary image and the source code as separate things to keep track of usually isn’t a problem, but there’s something to be said for adding the source — and documentation — to this image if you have some flash to spare. This is basically what the Forgetfulino Arduino library by [Nader Al Khatib] does.

Essentially, the library compresses the source files and assigns it to be burned onto the flash alongside the binary. There is also a bit of code added to the firmware so that this code can be retrieved via the serial port at any time, negating the need for a firmware dump and manual disassembly. For ease of use, the library has an Arduino IDE extension that automates the process. The basic idea could also be adapted to different environments should anyone wish to take up the challenge.

You probably wouldn’t want debug builds to feature this additional payload as writing it to flash will eat up time and write cycles. But for a release build that will be put out in the (literal) field for a few years or even decades, it could be very convenient. After all, you never know when that Git repository that you relied on might go AWOL.

Testing Whether Heated Chambers Help Brittle Filaments

Some FDM filaments are pretty brittle even if properly dried and stored, especially those which contain carbon fiber (CF) or similar additives like glass fiber (GF). This poses a problem in that these filaments can snap even within the PTFE tube as they’re being guided towards the extruder. Here a community theory is that having an actively heated chamber can help prevent this scenario, but is it actually true? [Dr. Igor Gaspar] of the My Tech Fun YouTube channel gave this myth a try to either confirm or bust it.

The comments suggested that heating the chamber to 65°C will help, but there’s little information online to support this theorem. To test the claim, a heated chamber was used along with a bending rig to see at which angle the filament would snap. In total five different filaments from three manufacturers (Polymaker, Qidi and YXPolyer) were tested, including Qidi’s PET-GF and PAHT-GF as the sole non-CF filaments.

A big question is how long exactly the filament will spend inside the heated chamber after making its way from the spool, which would be about 2.5 minutes with a 500 mm tube. For the test 5 minutes was used for the best possible result. Despite this, the results show that even with the standard deviation kept in mind, the heating actually seems to make the filaments even more brittle.

Considering that in general CF seems to simply weaken the polymer matrix after printing, this finding adds to the question of whether these CF and GF-infused filaments make any sense at all.

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How To Grow Large Sugar Crystals

Many substances display crystallization, allowing them to keep adding to a basic shape to reach pretty humongous proportions. Although we usually tend to think of pretty stones that get fashioned into jewelry or put up for display, sugar also crystallizes and thus you can create pretty large sugar crystals. How to do this is demonstrated by [Chase] of Crystalverse fame in a recent video.

This is effectively a follow-up to a 2022 blog article in which [Chase] showed a few ways to create pretty table sugar (sucrose) based crystals. In that article the growth of single sucrose crystals was attempted, but a few additional crystals got stuck to the main crystal so that it technically wasn’t a single crystal any more.

With this new method coarse sugar is used both for seed crystals as well as for creating the syrupy liquid from mixing 100 mL of water with 225 grams of sugar. Starting a single crystal is attempted by using thin fishing wire in a small vessel with the syrup and some seed crystals, hoping that a crystal will lodge to said fishing wire.

After a few attempts this works and from there the crystals can be suspended in the large jar with syrup to let them continue growing. It’s important to cover the jar during this period, as more crystals will form in the syrup over time, requiring occasional removal of these stray ones.

Naturally this process takes a while, with a solid week required to get a sizeable crystal as in the video. After this the crystal is effectively just a very large version of the sugar crystals in that 1 kg bag from the supermarket, ergo it will dissolve again just as easily. If you want a more durable crystal that’s equally easy to grow, you can toss some vinegar and scrap copper together to create very pretty, albeit toxic, copper(II) acetate crystals.

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Testing A Soviet 1000 Volt Insulation Tester From 1985

Although the term ‘Iron Curtain’ from the Cold War brings to mind something like the Berlin Wall and its forbidding No Man’s Land, there was still active trade between the Soviet Union and the West. This included devices like the M4100/4 insulation tester that the [Three-phase] YouTube channel recently looked at, after previously poking at a 1967 USSR resistance bridge.

This particular unit dates to 1985, and comes in a rather nice-looking case that somewhat looks like bakelite. It’s rated for up to 1 gigaohm, putting out 1,000 V by using the crank handle. Because of the pristine condition of the entire unit, including seals, it was decided to not look at the internals but only test its functionality.

After running through the basic usage of the insulation tester it’s hooked up to a range of testing devices, which shows that it seems to be mostly still in working condition. The first issue noticed was that the crank handle-based generator was a bit tired, so that it never quite hit the maximum voltage.

With no parallax correction and no known last calibration date, it still measured to about 10% of the actual value in some tests initially, but in later tests it was significantly off from the expected value. At this point the device was suspected of being faulty, but it defied being easily opened, so any repair will have to be put off for now. That said, it being in such good condition raises the prospect of it being an easy repair, hopefully in an upcoming video.

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