Print Your Own Standardized Wire Spool Storage

Hardware hackers tend to have loads of hookup wire, and that led [firstgizmo] to design a 3D printable wire and cable spool storage system. As a bonus, it’s Gridfinity-compatible!

The slot to capture loose ends is a nice touch, and the units can be assembled without external hardware.

There are a lot of little design touches we love. For example, we like the little notch into which the wire ends are held, which provides a way to secure the loose ends without any moving parts. Also, while at first glance these holders look like something that goes together with a few screws, they actually require no additional hardware and can be assembled entirely with printed parts. But should one wish to do so, [firstgizmo] has an alternate design that goes together with some M3 bolts instead.

Want to adjust something? The STEP files are included, which we always love to see because it makes modifications to the models so much more accessible. One thing that hasn’t changed over the years is that making engineering-type adjustments to STL files is awful, at best.

If there is one gotcha, it is that one must remove wire from their old spools and re-wind onto the new to use this system. However, [firstgizmo] tries to make that as easy as possible by providing two tools to make re-spooling easier: one for hand-cranking, and one for using a hand drill to do the work for you.

It’s a very thoughtful design, and as mentioned, can also be used with the Gridfinity system, which seems to open organizational floodgates in most people’s minds. Most of us are pinched for storage space, and small improvements in space-saving really, really add up.

Trace Tracing To The Tunes

Some kind of continuity beeper has been a standard piece of gear since the dawn of electronics. Sure, you probably have an ohm meter, but sometimes you don’t care about the actual resistance. You just want to know whether something connects or doesn’t, especially with a PCB trace or a cable. But what if your beeper could tell you more? [Nick Cornford] asks and answers that question with a beeper that lets you estimate resistance via pitch.

The circuit is relatively simple. A short to ground causes a voltage divider to produce a fraction of the battery voltage and a FET to conduct that fractional voltage to a VCO via a high-gain amplifier. The VCO converts voltage to frequency, and an audio amplifier feeds it to the speakers.

The two amplifiers and the VCO require two dual op-amp chips. The original schematic sends the output to some relatively high-impedance headphones. To drive more practical ones, the circuit can drop one op amp and use another FET and a separate battery.

Of course, you have many design choices, especially for the audio amplification. There are plenty of VCO circuits, or you could probably substitute a small microcontroller with an A/D converter and PWM output. Yes, you can also make a VCO with a 555.

VCOs are common because they are at the heart of PLLs.

refurbished baby blue vice next to its refurbisher

Vice Of Old Brought To The Modern Age

People say they don’t make em’ like they used to, and while this isn’t always the case, it’s certainly true that old vices rarely die with time. This doesn’t mean they can’t use a refresh. [Marius Hornberger] recently backed that up when he decided to restore an old vice that had seen better days.

custom bearing and rod
Customized axial bearing assembly

When refreshing old tools, you’ll almost always start the same: cleaning up all the layers of grease and ruined paint. The stories that each layer could tell will never be known, but new ones will be made with the care put into it by [Marius]. Bearings for the tightening mechanism had become worn down past saving, requiring new replacements. However, simply swapping them with carbon copies would be no fun.

[Marius] decided to completely rethink the clamping mechanism, allowing for much smoother use. To do this was simple, just machine down new axial bearings, design and print a bearing cage, machine the main rod itself, and finally make a casing. It’s simple really, but he wasn’t done and decided to create a custom torque rod to hammer in his vicing abilities. Importantly, the final finish was done by spraying paint and applying new grease.

Old tools can often be given new life, and we are far from strangers to this concept at Hackaday. Make sure to check out some antique rotary tools from companies before Dremel!

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Printing With Metal On The Ender 3 Using Only A Friction Wheel

Printing metal as easily as it is to print with thermoplastics has been a dream for a very long time, with options for hobbyists being very scarce. This is something which [Rotoforge] seeks to change, using little more than an old Ender 3 FDM printer and some ingenuity. Best of all is that the approach on which they have been working for the past year does not require high temperature, molten metals and no fussing about with powdered metal.

Additive manufacturing using friction welding. (Credit: Ruishan Xie, et al., j.mtcomm, 2021)
Additive manufacturing using friction welding. (Credit: Ruishan Xie, et al., j.mtcomm, 2021)

Rather than an extruder that melts a thermoplastic filament, their setup uses metal wire that is fed into a friction welding tool head, the details of which are covered in the video as well as on the GitHub project page. Unlike their previous setup which we reported on last year, this new setup is both safer and much riskier. While there’s no more molten metal, instead a very loud and very fast spinning disk is used to provide the friction required for friction welding, specifically friction and rolling-based additive manufacturing (FRAM) as in the cited 2021 paper by [Ruishan Xie] et al. in Materials Today Communications. By the same lead author there’s also a 2025 paper that explores more complex implementations of FRAM.

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A Compact, Browser-Based ESP32 Oscilloscope

An oscilloscope is usually the most sensitive, and arguably most versatile, tool on a hacker’s workbench, often taking billions of samples per second to produce an accurate and informative representation of a signal. This vast processing power, however, often goes well beyond the needs of the signals in question, at which point it makes sense to use a less powerful and expensive device, such as [MatAtBread]’s ESP32 oscilloscope.

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The Lethal Danger Of Combining Welding And Brake Cleaner

With the availability of increasingly cheaper equipment, welding has become far more accessible these days. While this is definitely a plus, it also comes with the elephant-sized asterisk that as with any tool you absolutely must take into account basic safety precautions for yourself and others. This extends to the way you prepare metal for welding, with [Dr. Bernard], AKA [ChubbyEmu] recently joining forces with [styropyro] to highlight the risks of cleaning metal with brake cleaner prior to welding.

Much like with common household chemicals used for cleaning, such as bleach and ammonia, improper use of these can produce e.g. chlorine gas, which while harmful is generally not lethal. Things get much more serious with brake cleaner, containing tetrachloroethylene. As explained in the video, getting brake cleaner on a rusty part to clean it and then exposing it to the intensive energies of the welding process suffices to create phosgene.

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3D Printing And Metal Casting Are A Great Match

[Chris Borge] has made (and revised) many of his own tools using a combination of 3D printing and common hardware, and recently decided to try metal casting. Having created his own tapping arm, he tries his hand at aluminum casting to create a much more compact version out of metal. His video (embedded below) really shows off the whole process, and [Chris] freely shares his learning experiences in casting his first metal tool.

The result looks great and is considerably smaller in stature than the 3D-printed version. However, the workflow of casting metal parts is very different. The parts are much stronger, but there is a lot of preparation and post-processing involved.

Metal casting deals with molten metal, but the process is otherwise very accessible, and many resources are available to help anyone with a healthy interest.

The key to making good castings is mold preparation. [Chris] uses green sand (a mixture of fine sand and bentonite clay – one source of the latter is ground-up kitty litter) packed tightly around 3D printed parts inside a frame. The packed sand holds its shape while still allowing the original forms to be removed and channels to be cut, creating a two-part mold.

His first-time castings have a rough surface texture, but are perfectly serviceable. After some CNC operations to smooth some faces and drill some holes, the surface imperfections are nothing filing, filler, and paint can’t handle.

To cast molten metal, there really isn’t any way around needing a forge. Or is there? We have seen some enterprising hackers repurpose microwave ovens for this purpose. One can also use a low-temperature alloy like Rose’s Metal, or eschew molten liquid altogether and do cold casting, which uses a mixture of resin and metal powder instead.

The design files for [Chris]’s tapping arm are available from links in the video description, and he also helpfully provides links to videos and resources he found useful. Watch it in the video, embedded just below.

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