Wood bent into a spiral

Make Magical-Looking Furniture With Kerf Bend Wizard

The intersection between “woodworkers” and “programmers” is not a densely populated part of the Venn diagram, but [Michael Schiebler] is there with his Kerf Bend Wizard to help us make wood twist and bend like magic.

Kerf bending is a fine technique we have covered before: by cutting away material on the inside face of a piece of wood, you create an area weak enough to allow for bending. The question becomes: how much wood do I remove? And where? That’s where Kerf Bend Wizard comes to the rescue.

More after the break…

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Compound Press Bends, Punches And Cuts Using 3D Printed Plastic

It’s not quite “bend, fold or mutilate” but this project comes close– it actually manufactures a spring clip for [Super Valid Designs] PETAL light system. In the video (embedded below) you’ll see why this tool was needed: by-hand manufacturing worked for the prototype, but really would not scale.

Two examples of the spring in question, embedded in the 3D printed light socket. There’s another pair you can’t see.

The lights themselves might be worthy of a post, being a modular, open source DMX stage lighting rig. Today though we’re looking at how they are manufactured– specifically how one part is manufactured. With these PETAL lights, the lights slot into a base station, which obviously requires a connection of some sort. [Super Valid Designs] opted for a spring connector, which is super valid.

It’s also a pain to work by hand: spring steel needed to be cut to length, hole punched, and bent into the specific shape required. The hand-made springs always needed adjustment after assembly, too, which is no good when people are giving you money for objects. Even when using a tent-pole spring that comes halfway to meeting their requirements, [Super Valid Designs] was not happy with the workflow. Continue reading “Compound Press Bends, Punches And Cuts Using 3D Printed Plastic”

Threaded Insert Press Is 100% 3D Printed

Sometimes, when making a 3D printed object, plastic just isn’t enough. Probably the most common addition to our prints is the ubiquitous brass threaded inset, which has proven its worth time and again over the years in providing a secure screw attachment point with less hassle than a captive nut. Of course to insert these bits of machined brass, you need to press them in, and unless you’ve got a very good hand with a soldering iron it’s usually a good idea to use a press of some sort. [TimNummy]  shows us that, ironically enough, making such a press is perfectly doable using only printed parts. Well, save for the soldering iron, of course.

He calls it the Superserter. Not only is it 100% printed plastic, but the entire design fits on a single 256 mm by 256 mm bed. In his case it was done on the Bambulab X1C, but it’s a common enough print bed size and can be printed without any supports. It’s even sized to fit the popular Gridfinity standard for a neat and tidy desk and handy bin placement for the inserts.

[TimNummy] clearly spent some time thinking about design for 3D printed manufacturing in order to create an assembly that does not need linear rails, sliders, or bearings as other press projects often do. The ironic thing is that if that same amount of effort went into other designs, it might eliminate the need for threaded inserts entirely.

If you haven’t delved into the world of threaded inserts, we put up a how-to-guide a few years ago. If you’re wondering if you can get away with just printing threads, the answer is “maybe”– we highlighted a video comparing printed threads with different inserts a while back to get you started thinking about the design limitations there.

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Two Bits, Four Bits, A Twelve-bit Oscilloscope

Until recently, hobby-grade digital oscilloscopes were mostly, at most, 8-bit sampling. However, newer devices offer 12-bit conversion. Does it matter? Depends. [Kiss Analog] shows where a 12-bit scope may outperform an 8-bit one.

It may seem obvious, of course. When you store data in 8-bit resolution and zoom in on it, you simply have less resolution. However, seeing the difference on real data is enlightening.

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The Saleae logic analyzer software is shown. One PWM channel is active, with values of 0x0001 displayed above the individual waveforms. On the right panel of the app, a trigger mode configuration panel is open for the simple parallel analyzer.

Simple Triggering For Saleae Logic Analyzers

Saleae logic analyzers seem to have it all: good sampling rates, convenient protocol decoding, and plenty of channels – but not a good way to set rising or falling-edge triggering. [James] found this rather inconvenient when debugging embedded devices, and shared a workaround that replicates these simple triggering modes.

Crucially, the logic analyzer’s software has a repeated triggering mode that fires when the protocol decoder detects a preset value. [James] used a clever trick to turn this into a rising-edge trigger: he set up a simple parallel analyzer, and set the signal in question as both the sampled channel and the clock signal. Since he wanted to detect the rising edge, he set the clock mode accordingly. Next, he loaded the simple parallel decoder’s trigger configuration and set it to detect a value of one, the value of a high signal. When he ran the simple parallel trigger, every rising edge of the input signal would trigger the clock to check for a high value on the line, in turn triggering the analyzer.

It’s also possible to set up a falling-edge trigger by selecting the falling-edge clock mode and setting the trigger mode to detect a value of zero. Setting up more complex triggers involving multiple channels is as simple as calculating the hexadecimal value of the desired state and setting the parallel decoder to trigger on that value. For example, if you want to trigger when one input is low and another is high, you can set the decoder to trigger on a value or one or two, depending on which order the inputs come in.

If all this makes you interested in Saleae logic analyzers, we’ve seen them used for everything from floppy disk preservation to signal generation. We’ve even reviewed their earliest model back in 2009.

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Building An Automatic Wire Stripper And Cutter

Stripping and cutting wires can be a tedious and repetitive part of your project. To save time in this regard, [Red] built an automatic stripper and cutter to do the tiring work for him.

An ESP32 runs the show in this build. Via a set of A4988 stepper motor drivers, it controls two NEMA 17 stepper motors which control the motion of the cutting and stripping blades via threaded rods. A third stepper controls a 3D printer extruder to move wires through the device. There’s a rotary encoder with a button for controlling the device, with cutting and stripping settings shown on a small OLED display. It graphically represents the wire for stripping, so you can select the length of the wire and how much insulation you want stripped off each end. You merely need select the measurements on the display, press a button, and the machine strips and cuts the wire for you. The wires end up in a tidy little 3D-printed bin for collection.

The build should be a big time saver for [Red], who will no longer have to manually cut and strip wires for future builds. We’ve featured some other neat wire stripper builds before, too. Video after the break.

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Hands-On: EufyMake E1 UV Printer

The modern hacker and maker has a truly incredible arsenal of tools at their disposal. High-tech tools like 3D printers, laser cutters, and CNC routers have all become commonplace, and combined with old standbys like the drill press and mini lathe, it sometimes seems like we’ve finally peaked in terms of what the individual is realistically capable of producing in their own home. But occasionally a new tool comes along, and it makes us realize that there are still avenues unexplored for the home gamer.

After spending the last few weeks playing with it, I can confidently say the eufyMake E1 UV printer is one of those tools. The elevator pitch is simple: with a UV printer, you can print anything on anything. As you can imagine, the reality is somewhat more complex, but the fact that you can toss a three dimensional object in the chamber and spray it with a high-resolution color image with a few button presses holds incredible creative potential. Enough that the Kickstarter for the $1,700 printer has already raised a mind-boggling $27 million at the time of this writing, with more than a month yet to go before crossing the finish line.

If you’re on the fence about backing the campaign, or just have doubts about whether or not the machine can do what eufyMake claims, I’ll put those concerns to rest right now — it’s the real deal. Even after using the machine for as long as I have, each time a print job ends, I find myself momentary taken aback by just how good the end result is. The technology inside this machine that not only makes these results possible, but makes them so easily obtainable, is truly revolutionary.

That being said, it’s not a perfect machine by any stretch of the imagination. While I never ran into an outright failure while using the eufyMake E1, there’s a fairly long list of issues which I’d like to see addressed. Some of them are simple tweaks which may well get sorted out before the product starts shipping this summer, while others are fundamental to the way the machine operates and could represent an opportunity for competitors.

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