Clear Resin Casting Replicates Old Acrylic For Selectric Repair

March 10, 2026 by Tyler August 3 Comments

IBM Selectric typewriters have a lot of unique parts that can be tricky to source, but one we didn’t think of was the clear acrylic(?) dust covers, that are apparently very hard to find in good shape. [Eric Strebel] has a few Selectrics that all have issues with these parts. While you could come close to recreating this piece with acrylic sheeting carefully bent to match the original shape, [Eric] has a different hammer to try in a new video: replicating it with a resin casting.

He uses de-gassed tin-cure silicone to create a mold for the original, with a bit of 3D printed PLA and foam board to hold the silicone to create the mold. That’s done in two steps to create a two-part mold, which is separated and cleaned before the resin goes in. The original part is actually a smoky plastic, rather than fully clear, but [Eric] is able to match it perfectly using a colourant in his clear epoxy resin. The resin is put into the mold with a simple gravity pour, though he does have a vibrator on it to help it flow. Curing is done under heat and pressure– 60 PSI. The results are amazing; once he adds a touch of paint to match the black finish on one face of the original, it’s very difficult to tell [Eric]’s casting from his master piece, except that the cast replicas are in better shape.

This particular part works very well for casting and not much else. While you could match the large curve by heat-bending a piece of smoky acrylic, there are lips along the edges of the part that would be tricky to reproduce. [Eric] also needed several, for his multiple typewriters, and this method is very efficient at producing multiple units since the mold is reusable.

While you might not have an IBM Selectric that needs a dust cover, this technique is equally applicable to all sorts of clear shapes. If you’re new to resin casting, we have a handy guide to replicating plastic parts to get you started in this kind of work. It’s not just large parts that can be replicated: you can even copy phonograph records, such is the fidelity of resin casting.

Continue reading “Clear Resin Casting Replicates Old Acrylic For Selectric Repair” →

A 3D-printed mechanism is clamped between the jaws of a pair of calipers, which are surrounded by 3D-printed covers. A hammer is resting against one of the jaws, and a man's gloved hand is holding the calipers.

Embossing Precision Ball Joints For A Micromanipulator

March 4, 2026 by Aaron Beckendorf 5 Comments

[Diffraction Limited] has been working on a largely 3D-printed micropositioner for some time now, and previously reached a resolution of about 50 nanometers. There was still room for improvement, though, and his latest iteration improves the linkage arms by embossing tiny ball joints into them.

The micro-manipulator, which we’ve covered before, uses three sets of parallel rod linkages to move a platform. Each end of each rod rotates on a ball joint. In the previous iteration, the parallel rods were made out of hollow brass tubing with internal chamfers on the ends. The small area of contact between the ball and socket created unnecessary friction, and being hollow made the rods less stiff. [Diffraction Limited] wanted to create spherical ball joints, which could retain more lubricant and distribute force more evenly.

The first step was to cut six lengths of solid two-millimeter brass rod and sand them to equal lengths, then chamfer them with a 3D-printed jig and a utility knife blade. Next, they made two centering sleeves to hold small ball bearings at the ends of the rod being worked on, while an anti-buckling sleeve surrounded the rest of the rod. The whole assembly went between the jaws of a pair of digital calipers, which were zeroed. When one of the jaws was tapped with a hammer, the ball bearings pressed into the ends of the brass rod, creating divots. Since the calipers measured the amount of indentation created, they was able to emboss all six rods equally. The mechanism is designed not to transfer force into the calipers, but he still recommends using a dedicated pair.

In testing, the new ball joints had about a tenth the friction of the old joints. They also switched out the original 3D-printed ball mount for one made out of a circuit board, which was more rigid and precisely manufactured. In the final part of the video, he created an admittedly unnecessary, but useful and fun machine to automatically emboss ball joints with a linear rail, stepper motor, and position sensor.

On such a small scale, a physical ball joint is clearly simpler, but on larger scales it’s also possible to make flexures that mimic a ball joint’s behavior.

Back To Basics: Hacking On Key Matrixes

March 3, 2026 by Lewin Day 12 Comments

A lot of making goes on in this community these days, but sometimes you’ve just gotta do some old fashioned hacking. You might have grabbed an old Speak and Spell that you want to repurpose as an interface for a horrifyingly rude chatbot, or you’ve got a calculator that is going to become the passcode keypad for launching your DIY missiles. You want to work with the original hardware, but you need to figure out how to interface all the buttons yourself.

Thankfully, this is usually an easy job. The vast majority of buttons and keypads and keyboards are all implemented pretty much the same way. Once you know the basics of how to work with them, hooking them up is easy. It’s time to learn about key matrixes!

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Have You Ever Used A Tick Stick?

February 28, 2026 by Tyler August 20 Comments

Picture this: you have an irregular opening you need to fabricate a piece to fill. Maybe it’s the stonework of a fireplace; maybe it’s the curved bulkhead of a ship. How do you get that shape? The most “Hackaday” answer would be to 3D scan the area, create a CAD model based on the point cloud, and route the shape with CNC. Of course, none of those were options for the entirety of human history. So how do you do it if you don’t have such high-tech toys? With a stick, as [Essential Craftsman] takes great pains to show us in the video below.

It’s not just any stick, of course. Call it a “tick stick”, a “speil stick”, or a “joggle stick” — whatever you call it, it’s just an irregularly shaped piece of wood. The irregular shape is key to the whole process. How you use it is simple: get some kind of storyboard — cardboard, MDF, whatever — that fits inside your irregular void. Thanks to the magic of the stick, it need not fit flush to the edges of the hole. You put the tick stick on the storyboard, press the pointy end against a reference point on the side of the hole, and trace the stick. The irregular shape means you’re going to be able to get that reference point back exactly later. Number the outline you just made, and rinse and repeat until you’ve got a single-plane “point cloud” made of tick stick outlines.

Your storyboard is probably going to look mighty confusing, but that’s what the numbers are for. Bring your storyboard and your tick stick onto the workbench and whatever you want to cut out– plywood, cardboard, 1/4″ steel armor plate, you name it–and simply repeat the process. Put the tick stick inside outline #1 and mark where the pointy end lands on the material. Then do it again for the other outlines, reproducing the points you measured on the original piece. After that, it’s just a game of ‘connect the dots’ and cutting with whatever methodology works for your substrate. A sharp knife will work for cardboard, but you’ll probably want something more substantial for steel plate.

It’s not often you’re going to need the tick stick– the [Craftsman] reports only needing it a few times over the course of a decades-long career, but when you need it, there’s not much else that will do the job. Well, unless you have a 3D scanner handy, that is. Continue reading “Have You Ever Used A Tick Stick?” →

Sliderule Simulator Teaches You How To Do Calculations The Old Fashioned Way

February 18, 2026 by Lewin Day 18 Comments

Ever wanted to know how engineers made their calculations before digital calculators were on every workbench? [Richard Carpenter] and [Robert Wolf] have just the thing—a sliderule simulator that can teach you how to do a whole bunch of complex calculations the old fashioned way!

The simulator is a digital recreation of the Hemmi/Post 1460 Versalog slide rule. This was a particularly capable tool that was sold from 1951 to 1975 and is widely regarded as one of the best slide rules ever made. It can do all kinds of useful calculations for you just by sliding the scales and the cursor appropriately, from square roots to trigonometry to exponents and even multi-stage multiplication and divisions.

You can try the simulator yourself in a full-screen window here. It’s written in JavaScript and runs entirely in the browser. If you’ve never used a slide rule before, you might be lost as you drag the center slide and cursor around. Fear not, though. The simulator actually shows you how to use it. You can tap in an equation, and the simulator will both spit out a list of instructions to perform the calculation and animate it on the slide rule itself. There are even a list of “lessons” and “tests” that will teach you how to use the device and see if you’ve got the techniques down pat. It’s the sort of educational tool that would have been a great boon to budding engineers in the mid-20th century. With that said, most of them managed to figure it out with the paper manuals on their own, anyway.

We’ve featured other guides on how to use this beautiful, if archaic calculation technology, too. We love to see this sort of thing, so don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline if you’ve found a way to bring the slide rule back to relevance in the modern era!

Thanks to [Stephen Walters] for the tip!

180 Shots On A Roll With The Little Stupid Camera

February 7, 2026 by Jenny List 8 Comments

If you want to play with the coolest kids on the block when it comes to photography, you have to shoot film. Or so say the people who shoot film, anyway. It is very true though that the chemical medium has its own quirks and needs a bit of effort in a way digital cameras don’t, so it can be a lot of fun to play with.

It’s expensive though — film ain’t cheap, and if you don’t develop yourself there’s an extra load of cash. What if you could get more photos on a roll? It’s something [Japhy Riddle] took to extremes, creating a fifth-frame 35mm camera in which each shot is a fifth the size of the full frame.

The focal plane of a 35mm camera with tape masking most of the frame — We’re slightly worried about that much sticky tape next to the shutter, but hey.

Standard 35mm still film has a 24x36mm frame, in modern terms not far off the size of a full-size SD card. A standard roll of film gives you 36 exposures. There are half-frame cameras that split that frame vertically to give 72 exposures, but what he’s done is make a quarter-frame camera.

It’s a simple enough hack, electrical tape masking the frame except for a vertical strip in the middle, but perhaps the most interesting part is how he winds the film along by a quarter frame. 35mm cameras have a take-up reel, you wind the film out of the cartridge bit by bit into it with each shot, and then rewind the whole lot back into the cartridge at the end. He’s wound the film into the take-up reel and it winding it back a quarter frame at a time using the rewind handle, for which we are guessing he also needs a means to cock the shutter that doesn’t involve the frame advance lever.

We like the hack, though we would be worried about adhesive tape anywhere near the shutter blind on an SLR camera. It delivers glorious widescreen at the cost of a bit of resolution, but as an experimental camera it’s in the best tradition. This is one to hack into an unloved 1970s snapshot camera for the Shitty Camera Challenge!

Continue reading “180 Shots On A Roll With The Little Stupid Camera” →

He’s A Wrapper (Wire Wrapper, That Is)

February 7, 2026 by Al Williams 29 Comments

Before PCBs, wiring electronic circuits was a major challenge in electronics production. A skilled person could make beautiful wire connections between terminal strips and components with a soldering iron, but it was labor-intensive and expensive. One answer that was very popular was wire wrapping, and [Sawdust & Circuits] shows off an old-fashioned wire wrap gun in the video below.

The idea was to use a spinning tool to tightly wrap solid wire on square pins. A proper wrap was a stable alternative to soldering. It required less skill, no heat, and was easy to unwrap (using a different tool) if you changed your mind. The tech started out as wiring telephone switchboards but quickly spread.

Not all tools were guns or electric. Some used a mechanical handle, and others were like pencils — you simply rotated them by hand. You could specify levels for sockets and terminals to get a certain pin length. A three-level pin could accept three wire wrap connections on a single pin, for example. There were also automated machines that could mass-produce wire-wrapped circuits.

The wire often had thin insulation, and tools usually had a slot made to strip the insulation on the tiny wires. Some guns created a “modified wrap” that left insulation at the top one or two wraps to relieve stress on the wire as it exited the post. If you can find the right tools, wires, and sockets, this is still a viable way to make circuits.

Want to know more about wire wrapping? Ask [Bil Herd].

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