3D Printing A New Kind Of Skateboard That Is Ultimately Unsafe

Skateboards were organically developed in the 1940s and 1950s; 30 years would then pass before the ollie was developed, unlocking new realms for skaters dedicated to the artform. The advent of powerful batteries and motors would later make the electric skateboard a practical and (un?)fashionable method of transport in more recent years. Now, [Ivan Miranda] is pushing the cutting edge of skateboarding even further, with an entirely weird build of his own design.

The build was inspired by one-wheels, which [Ivan] considers fun but ultimately too dangerous. Most specifically, he fears crashing when the one-wheel is tilted beyond a critical angle at which the motor can restore it to a level  heading. His concept was to thus create a two-wheeled board that is nonetheless controlled with the leaning interface of a one-wheel.

The frame is assembled from a combination of 3D-printed brackets and aluminium extrusion. The rider stands on a platform which rides on rollers on top of the frame, tilting it to control the drive direction of the board. Detecting the angle is handled by an Arduino Due with an MPU6050 IMU onboard. The microcontroller is then responsible for commanding the speed controller to move the board. Drive is from a brushless DC motor, hooked up to one of the wheels via a toothed belt. Power is courtesy of three power tool batteries.

Early testing showed the design to be a bit of a death trap. However, with refinement to the control system code and an improved battery setup, it became slightly more graceful to ride. [Ivan] notes that more tuning and refinement is needed to make the thing safer than a one-wheel, which was the original goal. We’ve seen some other great builds from [Ivan] before, too. Video after the break.

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How To Design Custom LCDs For Your Own Projects

These days, you can buy full graphical LCD or OLED displays for just a few dollars. However, if you’re so inclined, you can actually get your own segmented LCDs made to suit your own projects. [Icoso Labs] explains how it’s done, with plenty of handy tips along the way.

There are three primary things you need to do to design a segmented LCD. First, you need to design it visually, laying out all the individual elements you want on the display. Then you need to determine how you want to split them up into segments. Some elements you’ll just want to be a single monolithic on-or-off shape, while other areas you might want to create things like seven-segment numerals for displaying numbers and so on. With that done, you also need to specify various engineering details—such as whether you want a transmissive, reflective, or transflective display, and thicknesses, colors, and other important things. Armed with all that, you can take your design to a manufacturer and get them to make a bunch for you. Often, there’s a moderately high tooling cost to start a run, but you can then turn out more examples of your design for just a few bucks apiece.

It’s a neat guide to designing something few of us have ever considered sourcing for ourselves. We’ve featured other insights into the world of segmented LCDs before, too. Video after the break.

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3D Printing A Cheap VR Headset

The modern era of virtual reality really kicked off in earnest just over a decade ago, when the Oculus Rift promised 3D worlds beyond your wildest dreams. Since then, nobody’s been able to come up with a killer app to convince even a mild fraction of consumers to engage with the technology. Still, if you’re keen to tinker, you might like to make your own headset like [CNCDan] has done.

The build is based almost entirely on 3D-printed components and parts sourced from AliExpress. It offers 2880x1440p resolution, thanks to a pair of square 1440×1440 LCD displays, one for each eye, paired with a couple of 34 mm lenses. The headset has adjustable interpupiliary distance so you can dial the view in to properly suit your eyes. The 3D-printed housing is designed to be compatible with headrest pads from the HTC Vive Pro for comfort’s sake. Head tracking is also available, with the inclusion of an IMU and an Arduino onboard. [CNCDan] apparently put the build together for under $150, which is not bad compared to the price of a commercial off-the-shelf unit. Files are on Github for the curious.

[CNCDan] reports good results with the DIY headset, using it primarily with his racing simulator setup. He has had some issues, however, with his LCD screens, which don’t properly run at a 90 Hz refresh rate at full resolution, which is frustrating. It’s an issue he’s still looking into. We’ve seen some other neat VR builds over the years, too. Video after the break.

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Serial And UPDI Handled Together With One Convenient Circuit

Sometimes it’s nice when you can do everything you need to do with just one single port. In this vein, [Nicola Strappazzon] whipped up a circuit to combine serial and UPDI programming in a very convenient way.

As an example, [Nicola] demonstrates the concept using an AVR128DA28 microcontroller. It’s paired with a 4052 multiplexer IC and a CH340 USB-to-serial chip. Everything is wired up such that the 4052 acts as a switch for the signal coming from the CH340. When the RTS flow-control signal is set high, it switches the 4052 to hook up the CH340’s RX and TX pins to the UDPI interface on the AVR microcontroller. Conversely, when the RTS signal is set low, the CH340 is instead hooked up to the serial UART on the microcontroller. From there, it’s a simple matter of configuring avrdude to properly set the RTS pin when attempting to program the attached device.

If you’re working with UPDI devices and you want to be able to talk to them and program them with a minimum of fuss, this project might be useful for you. We’ve looked at dedicated UPDI programmers before, too. If you’re cooking up your own nifty microcontroller hacks, don’t hesitate to let us know on the tipsline.

Building A Ham Radio Data Transceiver On The Cheap

Once upon a time, ham radio was all about CW and voice transmissions and little else. These days, the hobby is altogether richer, with a wide range of fancy digital data modes to play with. [KM6LYW Radio] has been tinkering in this space, and whipped up a compact ham radio data rig that you can build for well under $100.

Radio-wise, the build starts with the Baofeng UV-5R handheld radio. It’s a compact VHF/UHF transceiver with 5W output and can be had for under $25 USD if you know where to look. It’s paired with a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W, which is the brains of the operation. The Pi is hooked up to the All-In-One-Cable which is basically a soundcard-like interface that plugs into USB and hooks up to the mic and speaker outputs of the Baofeng handheld. The final pieces of the puzzle are a USB PD battery pack and a small OLED screen to display status information.

What does that kit get you? The capability to transmit on all sorts of digital modes with the aid of the DigiPi software package. You can send emails, jump on APRS, or even chat on the web. You can configure all of this through a web interface running on the Raspberry Pi.

We’ve looked at some interesting digital ham projects before, too. Video after the break.

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Build A 3D Printed Tide Clock So You Know When The Sea Is Coming To Get You

The tides! Such a unique thing, because on Earth, we don’t just have oceans full of liquid water—we also have a big ol’ moon called Moon to pull them around. You might like to keep track of the tides; if so, this tide clock from [rabbitcreek] could come in handy.

The motions of the tides are moderately complex; it was in the late 19th century that Sir William Thomson figured out a reasonable method to predict the tides mathematically and with a mechanical contrivance of his own design. These days, though, you don’t need pulleys and ropes to build a tide clock; you can just use electronics for display and the NOAA API to get the information you need.

[rabbitcreek’s] build is based around the Xiao ESP32 S3, which is charged with using its Wi-Fi connection to query NOAA up-to-date tide height data. It then uses this information to drive the position of a servo, installed inside a 3D-printed housing. The servo rotates a little red Moon indicator around a central Earth, with our home planet surrounded by a stretched blue marker indicating the swelling of the tides as influenced by the Moon’s gravity.

If you’re a surfer or beach driver that’s always wanting to know the tidal state at a glance, this clock is for you. We’ve featured other tide clocks before, but never any projects that can actually influence the tides themselves. If you’ve figured out how to mess with gravity on a planetary scale, consider applying for a Nobel Prize—but do notify the tipsline before you do.

A Treasure Trove Of Random Vintage Tech Resources

Finding, collecting, and restoring vintage tech is the rewarding pastime of many a Hackaday reader. Working with old-school gear can be tough, though, when documentation or supporting resources are hard to find. If you’re in need of an old manual or a little scrap of software, you might find the Vintage Technology Digital Archive (VTDA) a useful destination.

The VTDA is a simple website. There is no search function, or fancy graphical way to browse the resources on offer. Instead, it’s merely a collection of files in a well-ordered directory tree. Click through /pics/DiskSleeves/VTDA/ and you’ll find a collection of high-resolution scans of various old diskettes and their packaging. /docs/computing/Centronics/ will give you all kinds of useful documentation, from press releases to datasheets for printers long forgotten. You can even find Heathkit schematics and old Windows bootdisk images if you dive into the depths.

While it doesn’t have everything, by any means, the VTDA has lots of interesting little bits and pieces that you might not find anywhere else. It’s a great counterpart to other archival efforts out on the web, particularly if you’re a member of the retrocomputing massive.

Thanks to [Itay] for the tip!