Printing An Air-Powered Integrated Circuit For Squishy Robots

There’s no rule that says that logic circuits must always use electrically conductive materials, which is why you can use water, air or even purely mechanical means to implement logic circuits. When it comes to [soiboi soft]’s squishy robots, it thus makes sense to turn the typical semiconductor control circuitry into an air-powered version as much as possible.

We previously featured the soft and squishy salamander robot that [soiboi] created using pneumatic muscles. While rather agile, it still has to drag a whole umbilical of pneumatic tubes along, with one tube per function. Most of the research is on microfluidics, but fortunately air is just a fluid that’s heavily challenged in the density department, allowing the designs to be adapted to create structures like gates and resistors.

A transistor or valve using a silicone membrane. (Credit: soiboi soft, YouTube)
A transistor or valve using a silicone membrane. (Credit: soiboi soft, YouTube)

Logically, a voltage potential or a pressure differential isn’t so different, and can be used in a similar way. A transistor for example is akin to the vacuum tube, which in British English is called a valve for good reason. Through creative use of a flexible silicone membrane and rigid channels, pulling a vacuum in the ‘gate’ channel allows flow through the other two channels.

Similarly, a ‘resistor’ is simply a narrowing of a channel, thus resisting flow. The main difference compared to the microfluidics versions is everything is a much larger scale. This does make it printable on a standard FDM printer, which is a major benefit.

Quantifying these pneumatic resistors took a bit of work, using a pressure sensor to determine their impact, but after that the first pneumatic logic circuits could be designed. The resistors are useful here as pull-downs, to ensure that any charge (air) is removed, while not impeding activation.

The design, as shown in the top image, is a 5-stage ring oscillator that provides locomotion to a set of five pneumatic muscles. As demonstrated at the end of video, this design allows for the entire walking motion to be powered using a single input of compressed air, not unlike the semiconductor equivalent running off a battery.

While the somewhat bulky nature of pneumatic logic prevents it from implementing very complex logic, using it for implementing something as predictable as a walking pattern as demonstrated seems like an ideal use case. When it comes to making these squishy robots stand-alone, it likely can reduce the overall bulk of the package, not to mention the power usage. We are looking forward to how [soiboi]’s squishy robots develop and integrate these pneumatic circuits.

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Rubik’s WOWCube: What Really Makes A Toy?

If there ever was a toy that enjoys universal appeal and recognition, the humble Rubik’s Cube definitely is on the list. Invented in 1974 by sculptor and professor of architecture Ernő Rubik with originally the name of Magic Cube, it features a three-by-three grid of colored surfaces and an internal mechanism which allows for each of these individual sections of each cube face to be moved to any other face. This makes the goal of returning each face to its original single color into a challenge, one which has both intrigued and vexed many generations over the decades. Maybe you’ve seen one?

Although there have been some variations of the basic 3×3 grid cube design over the years, none have been as controversial as the recently introduced WOWCube. Not only does this feature a measly 2×2 grid on each face, each part of the grid is also a display that is intended to be used alongside an internal processor and motion sensors for digital games. After spending many years in development, the Rubik’s WOWCube recently went up for sale at $299, raising many questions about what market it’s really targeting.

Is the WOWCube a ‘real’ Rubik’s Cube, and what makes something into a memorable toy and what into a mere novelty gadget that is forgotten by the next year like a plague of fidget spinners?

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Making The Tiny Air65 Quadcopter Even Smaller

First person view (FPV) quadcopter drones have become increasingly more capable over the years, as well as much smaller. The popular 65 mm format, as measured from hub to hub, is often considered to be about the smallest you can make an FPV drone without making serious compromises. Which is exactly why [Hoarder Sam] decided to make a smaller version that can fit inside a Pringles can, based on the electronics used in the popular Air65 quadcopter from BetaFPV.

The 22 mm FPV drone with camera installed and looking all cute. (Credit: Hoarder Sam)
The 22 mm FPV drone with camera installed and looking all cute. (Credit: Hoarder Sam)

The basic concept for this design is actually based on an older compact FPV drone design called the ‘bone drone’, so called for having two overlapping propellers on each end of the frame, thus creating a bone-like shape. The total hub-to-hub size of the converted Air65 drone ends up at a cool 22 mm, merely requiring a lot of fiddly assembly before the first test flights can commence. Which raises the question of just how cursed this design is when you actually try to fly with it.

Obviously the standard BetaFPV firmware wasn’t going to fly, so the next step was to modify many parameters using the Betaflight Configurator software, which unsurprisingly took a few tries. After this, the fully loaded drone with camera and battery pack, coming in at a whopping 25 grams, turns out to actually be very capable. Surprisingly, it flies not unlike an Air65 and has a similar flight time, losing only about 30 seconds of the typical three minutes.

With propellers sticking out at the top and bottom – with no propeller guards – it’s obviously a bit of a pain to launch and land. But considering what the donor Air65 went through to get to this stage, it’s honestly quite impressive that this extreme modification mostly seems to have altered its dimensions.

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Give Your Microscope Polarized $5 Shades To Fight Glare

Who doesn’t know the problem of glare when trying to ogle a PCB underneath a microscope of some description? Even with a ring light, you find yourself struggling to make out fine detail such as laser-etched markings in ICs, since the scattered light turns everything into a hazy mess. That’s where a simple sheet of linear polarizer film can do wonders, as demonstrated by [northwestrepair] in a recent video.

Simply get one of these ubiquitous films from your favorite purveyor of goods, or from a junked LCD screen or similar, and grab a pair of scissors or cutting implements. The basic idea is to put this linear polarizer film on both the light source as well as on your microscope’s lens(es), so that manipulating the orientation of either to align the polarization will make the glare vanish.

This is somewhat similar to the use of polarizing sunshades, only here you also produce specifically the polarized light that will be let through, giving you excellent control over what you see. As demonstrated in the video, simply rotating the ring light with the polarizer attached gives wildly different results, ranging from glare-central to a darkened-but-clear picture view of an IC’s markings.

How to adapt this method to your particular microscope is left as your daily arts and crafts exercise. You may also want to tweak your lighting setup to alter the angle and intensity, as there’s rarely a single silver bullet for the ideal setup.

Just the thing for that shiny new microscope under the Christmas tree. Don’t have a ring light? Build one.

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Removing Infill To Make 3D Printed Parts Much Stronger

When it comes to FDM 3D prints and making them stronger, most of the focus is on the outer walls and factors like their layer adhesion. However, paying some attention to the often-ignored insides of a model can make a lot of difference in its mechanical properties. Inspired by a string of [Tom Stanton] videos, [3DJake] had a poke at making TPU more resilient against breaking when stretched and PLA resistant to snapping when experiencing a lateral force.

Simply twisting the TPU part massively increased the load at which it snapped. Similarly, by removing the infill from the PLA part before replacing it with a hollow cylinder, the test part also became significantly more resilient. A very noticeable result of hollowing out the PLA part: the way that it breaks. A part with infill will basically shatter. But the hollowed-out version remained more intact, rather than ripping apart at the seams. The reason? The hollow cylinder shape is printed to add more walls inside the part. Plus cylinders are naturally more able to distribute loads.

All of this touches on load distribution and designing a component to cope with expected loads in the best way possible. It’s also the reason why finite element analysis is such a big part of the CAD world, and something which we may see more of in the world of consumer 3D printing as well in the future.

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Bose SoundTouch Smart WiFi Speakers Are About To Go Dumb

Bose SoundTouch speakers were introduced in 2013, offering the ability to connect to online streaming services and play back audio on multiple speakers simultaneously using the accompanying mobile app. Now these features are about to be removed, including the mobile app, as Bose is set to discontinue support on February 18, 2026. From that point onwards, you can only use them via Bluetooth or physical connectors that may be present, like an audio jack or HDMI port. This includes fancy home theater system hardware like the above SoundTouch 520.

That is the official line, at least. We have seen the SoundTouch on Hackaday previously, when it was discovered how to gain root shell access to the Linux OS that powers the original SoundTouch system with Telnet access on port 17,000 to pass the listening service the remote_services on command before connecting with Telnet as usual, with root and no password. A quick glance at the comments to that post suggests that this is still a valid approach for at least certain SoundTouch devices.

The fallout from this announcement appears to be twofold: most of all that ‘smart’ features like WiFi-based streaming can be dropped at any time. But it also makes us realize that hardware hackers like us will never run out of new and suddenly obsolete hardware that need our rescue.

Entering The Wild World Of Power Over Ethernet

As Ethernet became the world-wide standard for wired networking, there was one nagging problem. You already have to plug in the network cable. But then you have to also plug in a power cable. That power cable needs to be long enough. And have the right plug on it for your country. And provide the right current and voltage. That’s how Power over Ethernet (PoE) was born, first in a veritable Wild West of proprietary standards and passive injectors, then in a standardized process. Recently [T. K. Hareendran] wrote a primer on PoE, with more of a DIY intro focus, including some favorite PoE PD (powered device) chips to use in your own design.

You can still totally use passive PoE if that’s your jam, and you have full control over the network and any connected devices. This would allow you to, for example, power your SBCs for a couple of bucks, although for adding PoE to your Mac Mini you may want to look at some more refined options, if only as a safety precaution.

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