Fixing A KS Jive DAB Radio With A Dash Of Fake ICs

January 13, 2026 by Maya Posch 14 Comments

The radio unit after a successful repair. (Credit: Buy it Fix it, YouTube)

The exciting part about repairing consumer electronics is that you are never quite sure what you are going to find. In a recent video by [Mick] of Buy it Fix it on YouTube the subject is a KS Jive radio that throws a few curve balls along the way. After initially seeing the unit not power on with either batteries or external power, opening it up revealed a few loose wires that gave the false hope that it would be an easy fix.

As is typical, the cause of the unit failing appears to have been a power surge that burned out a trace and obliterated the 3.3V LDO and ST TDA7266P amplifier. While the trace was easily fixed, and AMS1117 LDOs are cheap and plentiful, the amplifier chip turned out to be the real challenge on account of being an EOL chip.

The typical response here is to waddle over to purveyors of scrap hardware, like AliExpress sellers. Here [Mick] bought a ‘new’ TDA7266P, but upon receiving his order, he got suspicious after comparing it with the busted original. As can be seen in the top image, the markings, logo and even typeface are wildly different. Thus [Mick] did what any reasonable person does and x-rayed both chips to compare their internals.

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Repairing Brittle Plastic Retro Computer Cases

January 8, 2026 by Maya Posch 20 Comments

Using UV resin as glue for new case clips. (Credit: More Fun Making It, YouTube)

As computers like the venerable breadbox Commodore 64 age, their plastic doesn’t just turn increasing shades of yellow and brown, the ABS plastic also tends to get brittle. This is a problem that seems to plague many plastic cases and enclosures, but fortunately there are some ways to halt or even reverse the heavy toll of time, with the [More Fun Making It] YouTube channel exploring a number of methods, including UV-curable resin, PETG 3D-printed clips and silicone molds.

Aside from large-scale damage, screw posts tend to snap off a lot, either during shipping or when merely trying to open the case. The same is true for the clips around the edge of the C64 case, which rarely survive that long. Gluing a case clip back on with epoxy or such somewhat works, but is messy and not that durable.

Instead UV resin is used, together with newly printed clips in translucent PETG. The remnants of the old clips are removed, followed by the application of the resin. The clips are actually a modified version of a VIC-20 case clip design by [Ken Mills]. With the UV resin as glue, curing is almost instant with a UV lamp unlike the tedious process with epoxy.

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DIY Grid Dip Meter Teardown

January 7, 2026 by Al Williams 5 Comments

You don’t see them much anymore, but there was a time when any hobbyist who dealt with RF probably had a grid dip meter. The idea was to have an oscillator and measure the grid current as it coupled to external circuits. At resonance, the grid current would go down or dip, hence the name. In the hands of someone who knew how to use it, the meter could measure inductance, capacitance, tuned circuits, antennas, and more. [Thomas] takes a peek inside a homebrew unit from the 1950s in a recent video you can see below.

These meters often have a few things in common. They usually have a plug-in coil near the top and a big tuning capacitor. Of course, there’s also a meter. You have to pick the right coil for the frequency of interest, which both sets the oscillator frequency range and couples to the circuit under test.

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Repairing A Self-Destructing SRS DG535 Digital Delay Generator

January 7, 2026 by Maya Posch No comments

There’s a lot of laboratory equipment out there that the casual hobbyist will never need to use, but that doesn’t mean you wouldn’t snap it up if the price is right. That’s what happened when [Tom Verbeure] saw a 1980s digital delay generator at a flea market for $40. Not only is it an excellent way to learn something about these devices, but it also provides a fascinating opportunity to troubleshoot and hopefully fix it. Such was also the case with this Stanford Research Systems (SRS) DG535 that turned out to be not only broken, but even features an apparently previously triggered self-destruct feature.

These devices are pretty basic, with this specimen incorporating a Z80 MPU in addition to digital and analog components to provide a programmable delay with 12.5 nanosecond resolution on its output channels after the input trigger is sensed. For that reason it was little surprise that the problem with the device was with its supply rails, of which a few were dead or out of spec, along with a burned-out trace.

Where the self-destruct feature comes into play is with the use of current boosting resistors around its linear regulators. Although these provide a current boost over what the regulator can provide, their disadvantages include a tendency towards destruction whenever the load on the supply rail decreases. This could for example occur when you’re debugging an issue and leave some of the PCBs disconnected.

Unsurprisingly, this issue caused the same charred trace to reignite during [Tom]’s first repair attempt, but after working up the courage over the subsequent 18 months the second repair attempt went much better, also helped by the presence of the mostly correct original board schematics.

Ultimately the fixes were relatively modest, involving replacing a discrete diode bridge with an integrated one, fixing the -9 V rail with a bodge wire, and replacing the LCD with its busted AC-powered backlight with a modern one with a LED backlight. Fortunately running the 5 V rail at 7 V for a while seemed to have caused no readily observable damage, nor did flipping connectors because of SRS’ inconsistent ‘standards’ for its connector orientations.

Sadly, when [Tom] emailed SRS to inquire about obtaining an updated schematic for this unit — which is currently still being sold new for $4,495 — he merely got told to send his unit in for repair.

Testing 8 Solder Flux Pastes After Flux Killed A GeForce2 GTS

December 20, 2025 by Maya Posch 18 Comments

Riesba NC-559-ASM flux being applied. (Credit: Bits und Bolts, YouTube)

Flux is one of those things that you cannot really use too much of during soldering, as it is essential for cleaning the surface and keeping oxygen out, but as [Bits und Bolts] recently found, not all flux is made the same. After ordering the same fake Amtech flux from the same AliExpress store, he found that the latest batch didn’t work quite the same, resulting in a Geforce 2 GTS chip getting cooked while trying to reball the chip with uncooperative flux.

Although it’s easy to put this down to a ‘skill issue’, the subsequent test of eight different flux pastes ordered from both AliExpress and Amazon, including — presumably genuine — Mechanic flux pastes with reballing a section of a BGA chip, showed quite different flux characteristics, as you can see in the video below. Although all of these are fairly tacky flux pastes, with some, the solder balls snapped easily into place and gained a nice sheen afterwards, while others formed bridges and left a pockmarked surface that’s indicative of oxygen getting past the flux barrier.

Not all flux pastes are made the same, which also translates into how easy the flux remnants are to clean up. So-called ‘no clean’ flux pastes are popular, which take little more than some IPA to do the cleaning, rather than specialized PCB cleaners as with the used Mechanic flux. Although the results of these findings are up for debate, it can probably be said that ordering clearly faked brand flux paste is a terrible idea. While the top runner brand Riesba probably doesn’t ring any bells, it might be just a Chinese brand name that doesn’t have a Western presence.

As always, caveat emptor, and be sure to read those product datasheets. If your flux product doesn’t come with a datasheet, that would be your first major red flag. Why do we need flux? Find out.

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Chip Swap Fixes A Dead Amiga 600

December 18, 2025 by Jenny List 13 Comments

The Amiga 600 was in its day the machine nobody really wanted — a final attempt to flog the almost original spec 68000 platform from 1985, in 1992. Sure it had a PCMCIA slot nobody used, and an IDE interface for a laptop hard drive, but it served only to really annoy anyone who’d bought one when a few months later the higher-spec 1200 appeared. It’s had a rehabilitation in recent years though as a retrocomputer, and [LinuxJedi] has a 600 motherboard in need of some attention.

As expected for a machine of its age it can use replacement electrolytic capacitors, and its reset capacitor had bitten the dust. But there’s more to that with one of these machines, as capacitor leakage can damage the filter circuitry surrounding its video encoder chip. Since both video and audio flow through this circuit, there was no composite video to be seen.

The hack comes in removing the original chip rather than attempt the difficult task of replacing the filter, and replacing it with a different Sony chip in the same series. It’s nicely done with a connector in the original footprint, and a small daughterboard. The A600 lives again, but this time it won’t be a disappointment to anyone.

If you want to wallow in some Amiga history as well as read a rant about what went wrong, we have you covered.

Fixing A Milltronics ML15 CNC Lathe Despite The Manufacturer’s Best Efforts

November 20, 2025 by Maya Posch 10 Comments

When you’re like [Wes] from Watch Wes Work fame, you don’t have a CNC machine hoarding issue, you just have a healthy interest in going down CNC machine repair rabbit holes. Such too was the case with a recently acquired 2001 Milltronics ML15 lathe, that at first glance appeared to be in pristine condition. Yet despite – or because of – living a cushy life at a college’s workshop, it had a number of serious issues, with a busted Z-axis drive board being the first to be tackled.

The Glentek servo board that caused so much grief. (Credit: Watch Wes Work, YouTube)

The identical servo control board next to it worked fine, so it had to be an issue on the board itself. A quick test showed that the H-bridge IGBTs had suffered the typical fate that IGBTs suffer, violently taking out another IC along with them. Enjoyably, this board by one Glentek Inc. did the rebranding thing of components like said IGBTs, which made tracking down suitable replacements an utter pain that was eased only by the desperate communications on forums which provided some clues. Of course, desoldering and testing one of the good IGBTs on the second board showed the exact type of IGBT to get.

After replacing said IGBTs, as well as an optocoupler and other bits and pieces, the servo board was good as new. Next, the CNC lathe also had a busted optical encoder, an unusable tool post and a number of other smaller and larger issues that required addressing. Along the way the term ‘pin-to-pin compatible’ for a replacement driver IC was also found to mean that you still have to read the full datasheet.

Of the whole ordeal, the Glentek servo board definitely caused the most trouble, with the manufacturer providing incomplete schematics, rebranding parts to make generic replacements very hard to find and overall just going for a design that’s interesting but hard to diagnose and fix. To help out anyone else who got cursed with a Glentek servo board like this, [Wes] has made the board files and related info available in a GitHub repository.

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