Cheap 3D Printer Becomes CNC Wood Engraver

December 19, 2025 by Lewin Day 10 Comments

3D printers are built for additive manufacturing. However, at heart, they are really just simple CNC motion platforms, and can be readily repurposed to other tasks. As [Arseniy] demonstrates, it’s not that hard to take a cheap 3D printer and turn it into a viable wood engraver.

The first attempt involved a simple experiment—heating the 3D printer nozzle, and moving it into contact with a piece of wood to see if it could successfully leave a mark. This worked well, producing results very similar to a cheap laser engraving machine. From there, [Arseniy] set about fixing the wood with some simple 3D-printed clamps so it wouldn’t move during more complex burning/engraving tasks. He also figured out a neat trick to simply calibrate the right Z height for wood burning by using the built in calibration routines. Further experiments involved developing a tool for creating quality G-Code for these engraving tasks, and even using the same techniques on leather with great success.

If you need to mark some patterns on wood and you already have a 3D printer, this could be a great way to go. [Arseniy] used it to great effect in the production of a plywood dance pad. We’ve featured some other great engraver builds over the years, too, including this innovative laser-based project. Video after the break.

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Surplus Industrial Robot Becomes Two-ton 3D Printer

December 19, 2025 by Tyler August 24 Comments

As the saying goes — when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. When life gives you a two-ton surplus industrial robot arm, if you’re [Brian Brocken], you apparently make a massive 3D printer.

The arm in question is an ABB IRB6400, a serious machine that can sling 100 to 200 kilograms depending on configuration. Compared to that, the beefiest 3D printhead is effectively weightless, and the Creality Sprite unit he’s using isn’t all that beefy. Getting the new hardware attached uses (ironically) a 3D printed mount, which is an easy enough hack. The hard work, as you might imagine, is in software.

As it turns out, there’s no profile in Klipper for this bad boy. It’s 26-year-old controller doesn’t even speak G-code, requiring [Brian] to feed the arm controller the “ABB RAPID” dialect it expects line-by-line, while simultaneously feeding G-code to the RAMPS board controlling the extruder. If you happen to have the same arm, he’s selling the software that does this. Getting that synchronized reliably was the biggest challenge [Brian] faced. Unfortunately that means things are slowed down compared to what the arm would otherwise be able to do, with a lot of stop-and-start on complex models, which compromises print quality. Check the build page above for more pictures, or the video embedded below.

[Brian] hopes to fix that by making better use of the ABB arm’s controller, since it does have enough memory for a small buffer, if not a full print. Still, even if it’s rough right now, it does print, which is not something the engineers at ABB probably ever planned for back before Y2K. [Brian]’s last use of the arm, carving a DeLorean out of styrofoam, might be closer to the original design brief.

Usually we see people using 3D printers to build robot arms, so this is a nice inversion, though not the first.

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Make Your Own Tires For RC Cars

December 16, 2025 by Lewin Day 15 Comments

You can buy a wide range of RC car tires off the shelf. Still, sometimes it can be hard to find exactly what you’re looking for, particularly if you want weird sizes, strange treads, or something that is very specifically scale-accurate. In any of these cases, you might like to make your own tires. [Build It Better] shows us how to do just that!

Making your own tires is fairly straightforward once you know how. You start out by producing a 3D model of your desired tire. You then create a two-piece negative mold of the tire, which can then be printed out on a 3D printer; [Build It Better] provides several designs online. From there, it’s simply a matter of filling the tire molds with silicone rubber, degassing, and waiting for them to set. All you have to do then is demold the parts, do a little trimming and post-processing, and you’ve got a fresh set of boots for your favorite RC machine.

[Build It Better] does a great job of demonstrating the process, including the basic steps required to get satisfactory results. We’ve featured some other great molding tutorials before, too. Video after the break.

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Printing With PHA Filament As Potential Alternative To PLA

December 14, 2025 by Maya Posch 31 Comments

PLA (polylactic acid) has become the lowest common denominator in FDM 3D printing, offering decent performance while being not very demanding on the printer. That said, it’s often noted that the supposed biodegradability of PLA turned out to be somewhat dishonest, as it requires an industrial composting setup to break it down. Meanwhile, a potential alternative has been waiting in the wings for a while, in the form of PHA. Recently, [JanTec Engineering] took a shot at this filament type to see how it prints and tests its basic resistance to various forms of abuse.

PHA (polyhydroxyalkanoates) are polyesters that are produced by microorganisms, often through bacterial fermentation. Among their advantages are biodegradability without requiring hydrolysis as the first step, as well as UV-stability. There are also PLA-PHA blends that exhibit higher toughness, among other improvements, such as greater thermal stability. So far, PHA seems to have found many uses in medicine, especially for surgical applications where it’s helpful to have a support that dissolves over time.

As can be seen in the video, PHA by itself isn’t a slam-dunk replacement for PLA, if only due to the price. Finding a PHA preset in slicers is, at least today, uncommon. A comment by the CTO of EcoGenesis on the video further points out that PHA has a post-printing ‘curing time’, so that mechanical tests directly after printing aren’t quite representative. Either you can let the PHA fully crystallize by letting the part sit for ~48 hours, or you can speed up the process by putting it in an oven at 70 – 80°C for 6-8 hours.

Overall, it would seem that if your goal is to have truly biodegradable parts, PHA is hard to beat. Hopefully, once manufacturing capacity increases, prices will also come down. Looking for strange and wonderful printing filament? Here you go.

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3D Printering: That New Color Printer

December 3, 2025 by Al Williams 15 Comments

Color 3D printing has gone mainstream, and we expect more than one hacker will be unpacking one over the holidays. If you have, say, a color inkjet printer, the process is simple: print. Sure, maybe make sure you tick the “color” box, but that’s about it. However, 3D printers are a bit more complicated.

There are two basic phases to printing color 3D prints. First, you have to find or make a model that has different colors. Even if you don’t make your own models (although you should), you can still color prints in your slicer.

The second task is to set the printer up to deal with those multiple colors. There are several different ways to do this, and each one has its pros and cons. Of course, some of this depends on your slicer, and some depends on your printer. For the purposes of this post, I’ll assume you are using a Slic3r fork like Prusa or OrcaSlicer. Most of the lower-priced printers these days work in roughly the same way. Continue reading “3D Printering: That New Color Printer” →

Necroprinting Isn’t As Bad As It Sounds

December 1, 2025 by Lewin Day 18 Comments

A mosquito has a very finely tuned proboscis that is excellent at slipping through your skin to suck out the blood beneath. Researchers at McGill University recently figured that the same biological structure could also prove useful in another was—as a fine and precise nozzle for 3D printing (via Tom’s Hardware).

Small prints made with the mosquito proboscis nozzle. Credit: research paper

To achieve this feat, the research team harvested the proboscis from a female mosquito, as only the female of the species sucks blood in this timeline. The mosquito’s proboscis was chosen over other similar biological structures, like insect stingers and snake fangs. It was prized for its tiny size, with an inside diameter of just 20 micrometers—which outdoes just about any man-made nozzle out there. It’s also surprisingly strong, able to resist up to 60 kPa of pressure from the fluid squirted through it.

Of course, you can’t just grab a mosquito and stick it on your 3D printer. It takes very fine work to remove the proboscis and turn it into a functional nozzle; it also requires the use of 3D printed scaffolding to give the structure additional strength. The nozzle is apparently used with bio-inks, rather than molten plastic, and proved capable of printing some basic 3D structures in testing.

Amusingly, the process has been termed 3D necroprinting, we suspect both because it uses a dead organism and because it sounds cool on the Internet. We’ve created a necroprinting tag, just in case, but we’re not holding our breath for this to become the next big thing. At 20 um, more likely the next small thing.

Further details are available in the research paper. We’ve actually featured quite a few mosquito hacks over the years. Video after the break.

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How To Design 3D Printed Pins That Won’t Break

December 1, 2025 by Donald Papp 9 Comments

[Slant 3D] has a useful video explaining some thoughtful CAD techniques for designing 3D printed pins that don’t break and the concepts can be extended to similar features.

Sure, one can make pins stronger simply by upping infill density or increasing the number of perimeters, but those depend on having access to the slicer settings. If someone else is printing a part, that part’s designer has no actual control over these things. So how can one ensure sturdier pins without relying on specific print settings? [Slant 3D] covers two approaches.

The first approach includes making a pin thick, making it short (less leverage for stress), and adding a fillet to the sharp corner where the pin meets the rest of the part. Why? Because a rounded corner spreads stress out, compared to a sharp corner.

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