OpenSCAD In Living Color

October 14, 2025 by Al Williams 10 Comments

I modified a printer a few years ago to handle multiple filaments, but I will admit it was more or less a stunt. It worked, but it felt like you had to draw mystic symbols on the floor of the lab and dance around the printer, chanting incantations for it to go right. But I recently broke down and bought a color printer. No, probably not the one you think, but one that is pretty similar to the other color machines out there.

Of course, it is easy to grab ready-made models in various colors. It is also easy enough to go into a slicer and “paint” colors, but that’s not always desirable. In particular, I like to design in OpenSCAD, and adding a manual intervention step into an otherwise automatic compile process is inconvenient.

The other approach is to create a separate STL file for each filament color you will print with. Obviously, if your printer can only print four colors, then you will have four or fewer STLs. You import them, assign each one a color, and then, if you like, you can save the whole project as a 3MF or other file that knows how to handle the colors. That process is quick and painless, so the question now becomes how to get OpenSCAD to put out multiple STLs, one for each color.

But… color()

OpenSCAD has a color function, but that just shows you colors on the screen, and doesn’t actually do anything to your printed models. You can fill your screen with color, but the STL file you export will be the same. OpenSCAD is also parametric, so it isn’t that hard to just generate several OpenSCAD files for each part of the assembly. But you do have to make sure everything is referenced to the same origin, which can be tricky.

It turns out, the development version of OpenSCAD has experimental support for exporting 3MF files, which would allow me to sidestep the four STLs entirely. However, to make it work, you not only have to run the development version, but you also have to enable lazy unions in the preferences. You might try it, but you might also want to wait until the feature is more stable.

Besides, even with the development version, at least as I tried it, every object in the design will still need its color set in the slicer. The OpenSCAD export makes them separate objects, but doesn’t seem to communicate their color in a way that the slicer expects it. If you have a large number of multi-color parts, that will be a problem. It appears that if you do go this way, you might consider only setting the color on the very top-most objects unless things change as the feature gets more robust.

A Better Way

What I really wanted to do is create one OpenSCAD file that shows the colors I am using on the screen. Then, when I’m ready to generate STL files, I should be able to just pick one color for each color I am using.

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A metal needle tip comes to a point against a white background. A scale bar in the lower left shows a 300 micrometer length.

Etching Atomically Fine Needle Points

October 13, 2025 by Aaron Beckendorf 22 Comments

[Vik Olliver] has been extending the lower resolution limits of 3D printers with the RepRapMicron project, which aims to print structures with a feature size of ten micrometers. A molten plastic extruder would be impractical at such small scales, even if a hobbyist could manufacture one small enough, so instead [Vik]’s working on a system that uses a very fine needle point to place tiny droplets of UV resin on a substrate. These points have to be sharper than anything readily available, so his latest experiments have focused on electrochemically etching his own needles.

The needles start with a fine wire, which a 3D-printed bracket holds hanging down into a beaker of electrolyte, where another electrode is located. By applying a few volts across the circuit, with the wire acting as an anode, electrochemical erosion eventually wears through the wire and it drops off, leaving an atomically sharp point. Titanium wire performs best, but Nichrome and stainless steel also work. Copper wire doesn’t work, and by extension, nor does the plated copper wire sometimes sold as “stainless steel” by sketchy online merchants.

The electrolyte was made from either a 5% sodium chloride solution or 1% nitric acid. The salt solution produced a very thin, fine point, but also produced a cloudy suspension of metal hydroxides around the wire, which made it hard to tell when the wire had broken off. The goal of nitric acid was to prevent hydroxide formation; it produced a shorter, blunter tip with a pitted shaft, but it simply etched the tip of the wire to a point, with the rest of the wire never dropping off. Some experimentation revealed that a mixture of the two electrolyte solutions struck a good balance which etched fine points like the pure salt solution, but also avoided cloudy precipitates.

If you’re interested in seeing more of the RepRapMicron, we’ve looked at a previous iteration which scribed a minuscule Jolly Wrencher in marker ink. On a more macro scale, we’ve also seen one 3D printer which used a similar resin deposition scheme.

SLM Co-extruding Hotend Makes Poopless Prints

October 13, 2025 by Tyler August 17 Comments

Everyone loves colourful 3D prints, but nobody loves prime towers, “printer poop” and all the plastic waste associated with most multi-material setups. Over the years, there’s been no shortage of people trying to come up with a better way, and now it’s time for [Roetz] to toss his hat into the ring, with his patent-proof, open-source Roetz-End. You can see it work in the video below.

The Roetz-End is, as you might guess, a hot-end that [Roetz] designed to facilitate directional material printing. He utilizes SLM 3D printing of aluminum to create a four-in-one hotend, where four filaments are input and one filament is output. It’s co-extrusion, but in the hot-end and not the nozzle, as is more often seen. The stream coming out of the hot end is unmixed and has four distinct coloured sections. It’s like making bi-colour filament, but with two more colours, each aligned with one possible direction of travel of the nozzle.

What you get is ‘directional material deposition’: which colour ends up on the outer perimeter depends on how the nozzle is moving, just like with bi-color filaments– though far more reliably. That’s great for making cubes with distinctly-coloured sides, but there’s more to it than that. Printing at an angle can get neighboring filaments to mix; he demonstrates how well this mixing works by producing a gradient at (4:30). The colour gradients and combinations on more complicated prints are delightful.

Is it an MMU replacement? Not as-built. Perhaps with another axis– either turning the hot-end or the bed to control the direction of flow completely, so the colours could mix however you’d like, we could call it such. That’s discussed in the “patent” section of the video, but has not yet been implemented. This technique also isn’t going to replace MMU or multitool setups for people who want to print dissimilar materials for easily-removable supports, but co-extruding materials like PLA and TPU in this device creates the possibility for some interesting composites, as we’ve discussed before.

As for being “patent-proof” — [Roetz] believes that through publishing his work on YouTube and GitHub into the public domain, he has put this out as “prior art” which should block any entity from successfully filing a patent. It worked for Robert A. Heinlein with the waterbed, but that was a long time ago. Time will tell if this is a way to revive open hardware in 3D printing.

It’s certainly a neat idea, and we thank [CityZen] for the tip.

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Removing Infill To Make 3D Printed Parts Much Stronger

October 12, 2025 by Maya Posch 22 Comments

When it comes to FDM 3D prints and making them stronger, most of the focus is on the outer walls and factors like their layer adhesion. However, paying some attention to the often-ignored insides of a model can make a lot of difference in its mechanical properties. Inspired by a string of [Tom Stanton] videos, [3DJake] had a poke at making TPU more resilient against breaking when stretched and PLA resistant to snapping when experiencing a lateral force.

Simply twisting the TPU part massively increased the load at which it snapped. Similarly, by removing the infill from the PLA part before replacing it with a hollow cylinder, the test part also became significantly more resilient. A very noticeable result of hollowing out the PLA part: the way that it breaks. A part with infill will basically shatter. But the hollowed-out version remained more intact, rather than ripping apart at the seams. The reason? The hollow cylinder shape is printed to add more walls inside the part. Plus cylinders are naturally more able to distribute loads.

All of this touches on load distribution and designing a component to cope with expected loads in the best way possible. It’s also the reason why finite element analysis is such a big part of the CAD world, and something which we may see more of in the world of consumer 3D printing as well in the future.

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Save Your USB-C Plugs From Oblivion

October 11, 2025 by Jenny List 57 Comments

USB-C as the “One Cable To Rule Them All” has certainly been a success. While USB-A is still around for now, most of us have breathed a hefty sigh of relief with the passing of micro-USB and the several display and power standards it replaces. It’s not without its minor issues though. One of them is that it’s as susceptible as any other cable to a bit of strain. For that, we think [NordcaForm]’s 3D-printed USB-C cable strain relief is definitely a cut above the rest.

Waxing lyrical about a simple 3D printed model might seem overkill for Hackaday, and it’s true, it’s not something we do often, but as Hackaday writers travel around with plenty of USB-C connected peripherals, we like the design of this one. It’s flexible enough to be useful without resorting to exotic filaments, and since it’s available in a few different forms with curved or straight edges, we think it can find a place in many a cable setup. Certainly more of an everyday carry than a previously featured 3D print. If you want to learn more about USB C, we have a whole series of posts for you to binge read.

PLA Gears Fail To Fail In 3D Printed Bicycle Drivetrain

October 10, 2025 by Tyler August 33 Comments

Anyone who has ever snapped a chain or a crank knows how much torque a bicycle’s power train has to absorb on a daily basis; it’s really more than one might naively expect. For that reason, [Well Done Tips]’s idea of 3D printing a gear chain from PLA did not seem like the most promising of hacks to us.

Contrary to expectations, though, it actually worked; at the end of the video (at about 13:25), he’s on camera going 20 km/h, which while not speedy, is faster than we thought the fixed gearing would hold up. The gears themselves, as you can see, are simple spurs, and were modeled in Fusion360 using a handy auto-magical gear tool. The idler gears are held in place by a steel bar he welded to the frame, and are rolling on good old-fashioned skateboard bearings–two each. (Steel ones, not 3D printed bearings.) The healthy width of the spur gears probably goes a long way to explaining how this contraption is able to survive the test ride.

The drive gear at the wheel is steel-reinforced by part of the donor bike’s cassette, as [Well Done Tips] recognized that the shallow splines on the freewheel hub were not exactly an ideal fit for PLA. He does complain of a squeaking noise during the test ride, and we can’t help but wonder if switching to helical gears might help with that. That or perhaps a bit of lubricant, as he’s currently riding the gears dry. (Given that he, too, expected them to break the moment his foot hit the pedal, we can’t hardly blame him not wanting to bother with grease.)

We’ve seen studies suggesting PLA might not be the best choice of plastic for this application; if this wasn’t just a fun hack for a YouTube video, we’d expect nylon would be his best bet. Even then, it’d still be a hack, not a reliable form of transportation. Good thing this isn’t reliable-transportation-a-day!

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Why Stepper Motors Still Dominate 3D Printing

October 8, 2025 by Maya Posch 43 Comments

It’s little secret that stepper motors are everywhere in FDM 3D printers, but there’s no real reason why you cannot take another type of DC motor like a brushless DC (BLDC) motor and use that instead. Interestingly, some printer manufacturers are now using BLDCs for places where the reduction in weight matters, such as in the tool head or extruder, but if a BLDC can be ‘stepped’ much like any stepper motor, then why prefer one over the other? This is the topic of a recent video by [Thomas Sanladerer], with the answer being mostly about cost, and ‘good enough’ solutions.

The referenced driving method of field-oriented control (FOC), which also goes by the name of vector control, is a VFD control method in which the controller can fairly precisely keep position much like a stepper motor, but without the relatively complex construction of a stepper motor. Another advantage is that FOC tends to use less power than alternatives.

Using a FOC controller with a BLDC is demonstrated in the video, which also covers the closed-loop nature of such a configuration, whereas a stepper motor is generally driven in an open-loop fashion. Ultimately the answer at this point is that while stepper motors are ‘good enough’ for tasks where their relatively large size and weight aren’t real issues, as BLDCs with FOC or similar becomes more economical, we may see things change there.

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