The Most Satisfying Way To Commit

June 20, 2025 by Tyler August 8 Comments

Have you ever finished up a bit of code and thought that typing “git push” in a terminal is just not a satisfying finish? So did [penumbriel], so he built a big red button he could smash instead.

This is a very simple hack: an Arduino sits inside a 3D-printed case that holds a big, red button. The case itself is very sturdily made to withstand a good satisfying smack: it has thick walls, brass insets, and rubber feet to protect the de The code for the Arduino is very, very simple: it spoofs a USB HID using the standard keyboard library, and automatically types out “git push” whenever the button is pressed. Or smashed, because you know you’re going to want to slam that thing. So far, so good– very innovative for 2006, right?

The detail that made this project stand out in 2025 was the technique [penumbriel] used for lettering– we’re always looking

With a simple soap-and-water mask, the cured silicone peels right off, leaving a clean label.

for new ways to make a good front panel. In this case, the letters were printed as a valley and filled with silicone adhesive. To protect the top surface of the print, soapy water was used as a mask. The silicone would not adhere to the wet plastic, so all [penumbriel] had to do was peel it off after it had cured, leaving solid white inside. It’s a neat trick, and a great way to use up an old tube of silicone before it goes hard. You could also use it for injection molding, but this is a great use for the dregs.

This might go well next to the programmer’s macro pad we featured a while back, but it really needs to stay as a big red button for maximum satisfaction.

Spin-Casting This Telescope Mirror In Resin Didn’t Go To Plan

June 3, 2025 by Lewin Day 29 Comments

For most of us, mirrors are something we buy instead of build. However, [Unnecessary Automation] wanted to craft mirrors of his own for a custom telescope build. As it turns out, producing optically-useful mirrors is not exactly easy.

For the telescope build in question, [Unnecessary Automation] needed a concave mirror. Trying to get that sort of shape with glass can be difficult. However, there’s such a thing as a “liquid mirror” where spinning fluid forms into a parabolic-like shape. Thus came the idea to spin liquid resin during curing to try and create a mirror with the right shape.

That didn’t quite work, but it inspired a more advanced setup where a spinning bowl and dense glycerine fluid was used to craft a silicone mold with a convex shape. This could then be used to produce a resin-based mirror in a relatively stationary fashion. From there, it was just necessary to plate a shiny metal layer on to the final part to create the mirror effect. Unfortunately, the end result was too messy to use as a viable telescope mirror, but we learn a lot about what didn’t work along the way.

The video is a great journey of trial and error. Sometimes, figuring out how to do something is the fun part of a project, even if you don’t always succeed. If you’ve got ideas on how to successfully spin cast a quality mirror, drop them in the comments below. We’ve seen others explore mirror making techniques before, too.

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Liquid Silicone 3D Printing Is No Joke

May 7, 2025 by Tyler August 45 Comments

They might call it Levity, but there’s nothing funny about Rapid Liquid Print’s new silicone 3D printer. It has to be seen to be believed, and luckily [3D Printing Nerd] gives us lots of beauty shots in this short video, embedded below.

Smooth, and *fast*. This bladder took 51 minutes according to the RLP website.

Printing a liquid, even a somewhat-viscous one like platinum-cure silicone, presents certain obvious challenges. The Levity solves them with buoyancy: the prints are deposited not onto a bed, but into a gel, meaning they are fully supported as the silicone cures. The fact that the liquid doesn’t cure instantly has a side benefit: the layers bleed into one another, which means this technique should (in theory) be stronger in all directions than FDM printing. We have no data to back that up, but what you can see for yourself that the layer-blending creates a very smooth appearance in the finished prints.

If you watch the video, it really looks like magic, the way prints appear in the gel. The gel is apparently a commercially-available hydrogel, which is good since the build volume looks to need ̶a̶b̶o̶u̶t̶ ̶5̶0̶0̶ ̶L̶ at least 125 L of the stuff. The two-part silicone is also industry-standard and off-the-shelf, though no doubt the exact ratios and are tweaked for purpose. There’s no magic, just a really neat technology.

If you want one, you can sign up for the waiting list at Rapid Liquid Print’s website, but be prepared to wait; units ship next year, and there’s already a list.

Alternatively, since there is no magic here, we’d love to see someone take it on themselves, the way once equally exotic SLS printers have entered the DIY world. There was a time when resin printers were new and exotic and hobbyists had to roll their own, too. None of this is to say we don’t respect the dickens out of the Rapid Liquid Print team and their achievement–it’s just that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Continue reading “Liquid Silicone 3D Printing Is No Joke” →

Silicone Tubing As Springs For Capacitive Touch Buttons

December 23, 2024 by Maya Posch 7 Comments

Capacitive touch buttons are a great way to turn just about any (non-conductive) surface into a button, but people generally dislike the lack of tactile feedback. [KontinuumLab] apparently agreed and decided to experiment a bit with ways to make such buttons more springy. You can check out the results of those experiments in the video below. There are a few ways to add some spring to buttons and switches like these, including compliant mechanisms in the (3D-printed) plastic structure, but this isn’t always an option in a project. A separate plastic spring can be added, but they aren’t very durable. A metal spring works great but can be a bit of a hassle to integrate and they aren’t as cheap as the other options. So what about everyone’s favorite keyboard switch, the rubber dome type?

Silicone tubing is plentiful and (generally) cheap. It can be selected for just the right springiness and dimensions, and in the automated test that [KontinuumLab] ran, it is also very durable in this application. When your goal is to have a switch that activates at the end of the travel, this may work a treat, with the size of the silicone tube determining the travel before the finger gets close enough to trigger the switch. As rubber dome keyboards demonstrate, this is a highly reliable technology, though this version ditches the typical membrane for the capacitive touch sensor.

Sometimes, a metal spring is the right option, of course, such as when you want to make a surface a touch sensor and the PCB is at the other side of the enclosure. The fun part is that we have all of these options to make our projects work, with many being very affordable to hobbyists. Not all touch sensors require a finger, either.

Thanks to [BrightBlueJim] for the tip.

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Robotic Touch Using A DIY Squishy Magnetic Pad

September 22, 2024 by Donald Papp 5 Comments

There are a number of ways to give a robotic actuator a sense of touch, but the AnySkin project aims to make it an overall more reliable and practical process. The idea is twofold: create modular grippy “skins” that can be slipped onto actuators, and separate the sensing electronics from the skins themselves. The whole system ends up being quite small, as shown here.

Cast skins can be installed onto bases as easily as slipping a phone case onto a phone.

The skins are cast in whatever shape is called for by using silicone (using an off-the-shelf formulation from Smooth-on) mixed with iron particles. This skin is then slipped onto a base that contains the electronics, but first it is magnetized with a pulse magnetizer. It’s the magnetic field that is at the heart of how the system works.

The base contains five MLX90393 triple-axis magnetometers, each capable of sensing tiny changes in magnetic fields. When the magnetized skin over the base is deformed — no matter how slightly — its magnetic field changes in distinct ways that paint an impressively detailed picture of exactly what is happening at the sensor. As a bonus, slippage of the skin against the sensor (a kind of shearing) can also be distinctly detected with a high degree of accuracy.

The result is a durable and swappable robotic skin that can be cast in whatever shape is needed, itself contains no electronics, and can even be changed without needing to re-calibrate everything. Cameras can also sense touch with a high degree of accuracy, but camera-based sensors put constraints on the size and shape of the end result.

AnySkin builds on another project called ReSkin and in fact uses the same sensor PCB (design files and bill of materials available here) but provides a streamlined process to create swappable skins, and has pre-made models for a variety of different robot arms.

Multi-Material Printing Enables Low Cost Silicone Prototypes

September 4, 2024 by Tom Nardi 10 Comments

While it’s the ideal choice for mass production, injection molding is simply no good for prototyping. The molds are expensive and time-consuming make, so unless you’ve got the funding to burn tens of thousands of dollars on producing new ones each time you make a tweak to your design, they’re the kind of thing you don’t want to have made until you’re absolutely sure everything is dialed in and ready. So how do you get to that point without breaking the bank?

That’s not always an easy question, but if you’re working with silicone parts, the team at OpenAeros thinks they might have a solution for you. As demonstrated through their OpenRespirator project, the team has developed a method of 3D printing single-use molds suitable for large silicone parts that they’re calling Digital-to-Silicone (D2S).

In the video below, [Aaron] and [Jon] explain that they started off by simply printing injection molds in the traditional style. This worked, but the molds can get quite complex, and the time and effort necessary to design and print them wasn’t a great fit for their iterative development cycle. They wanted to be able to do from design to prototype in a day, not a week.

Eventually they realized that if they printed the mold out of a water-soluble filament, they could simplify its design greatly. They’ve documented the design process in detail, but the short version is that you essentially subtract the 3D model of the design you want to produce from a solid shape in your CAD package, and add a few holes for injecting the silicone. Once the silicone has cured, the mold can be dissolved away in warm water to reveal the finished part.

They then took this concept a step further. Thanks to the multi-material capabilities offered by some of the latest 3D printers, it’s possible to print structures within the mold. Once the silicone is injected, these structures can become part of the finished part. For the OpenRespirator, this lets them add PETG stiffening rings around where the filters to snap into the silicone mask body.

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3D Printing Silicone Parts

February 8, 2024 by Al Williams 6 Comments

Silicone is a useful material for many purposes. Traditionally, creating something out of silicone required injection molding. That’s not difficult, but it does require a good bit of setup. As [Formlabs] points out in a recent video, there are at least three other routes to create silicone parts that utilize 3D printing technology that might fit your application better, especially if you only need a few of a particular item. You can see the video below.

The three methods are either printing silicone directly, printing a mold, casting silicone, or using high-performance elastomers, which are very silicone-like. Of course, as you might expect, some of this is aimed at prompting some of [Formlab’s] products, like a new silicone resin, and you can’t blame them for that.

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