The Shelly 2.5 Smart Relay Design Flaw Killing Capacitors

January 17, 2026 by Maya Posch 14 Comments

Part of any self-respecting Smart Home, smart relays are useful for switching and monitoring loads that do not plug into an outlet. This also makes them a lot more integrated, and thus, a long lifespan is very welcome. Unfortunately, the popular Shelly 2.5 smart relays seem to be having a bit of a design flaw as they’re dying in droves once their 2-year warranty period is up. The cause and repair are covered in a recent [VoltLog] video on YouTube.

As noted in the Shelly documentation for the device, it’s a very compact form factor device, with screw terminals, two relays, and three fairly large electrolytic capacitors sharing very little space with the rest of the components. The apparent flaw comes in the form of these capacitors failing, with the video showing that one 100 µF capacitor has a massively increased ESR, likely due to electrolyte venting. This results in the observed symptoms, such as WiFi connectivity issues and audible hissing, the latter of which is demonstrated in the video.

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A New Life For An Old Amplifier

January 14, 2026 by Jenny List 21 Comments

An audio amplifier was once a fairly simple analogue device, but in recent decades a typical home entertainment amplifier will have expanded to include many digital functions. When these break they are often proprietary and not easy to repair, as was the case with a broken Pioneer surround-sound device given to [Boz]. It sat on the shelf for a few years until he had the idea of a jukebox for his ripped CDs, and his returning it to life with a new main board is something to behold.

Internally it’s a surprisingly modular design, meaning that the front panel with its VFD display and driver were intact and working, as were the class AB amplifier and its power supply. He had the service manual so reverse engineering was straightforward, thus out came the main board in favor of a replacement. He took the original connectors and a few other components, then designed a PCB to take them and a Raspberry Pi Pico and DAC. With appropriate MMBASIC firmware it looks as though it was originally made this way, a sense heightened by a look at the motherboard inside (ignoring a couple of bodges).

We like seeing projects like this one which revive broken devices, and this one is particularly special quality wise. We’re more used to seeing it with gaming hardware though.

Fixing A KS Jive DAB Radio With A Dash Of Fake ICs

January 13, 2026 by Maya Posch 14 Comments

The radio unit after a successful repair. (Credit: Buy it Fix it, YouTube)

The exciting part about repairing consumer electronics is that you are never quite sure what you are going to find. In a recent video by [Mick] of Buy it Fix it on YouTube the subject is a KS Jive radio that throws a few curve balls along the way. After initially seeing the unit not power on with either batteries or external power, opening it up revealed a few loose wires that gave the false hope that it would be an easy fix.

As is typical, the cause of the unit failing appears to have been a power surge that burned out a trace and obliterated the 3.3V LDO and ST TDA7266P amplifier. While the trace was easily fixed, and AMS1117 LDOs are cheap and plentiful, the amplifier chip turned out to be the real challenge on account of being an EOL chip.

The typical response here is to waddle over to purveyors of scrap hardware, like AliExpress sellers. Here [Mick] bought a ‘new’ TDA7266P, but upon receiving his order, he got suspicious after comparing it with the busted original. As can be seen in the top image, the markings, logo and even typeface are wildly different. Thus [Mick] did what any reasonable person does and x-rayed both chips to compare their internals.

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Repairing Brittle Plastic Retro Computer Cases

January 8, 2026 by Maya Posch 20 Comments

Using UV resin as glue for new case clips. (Credit: More Fun Making It, YouTube)

As computers like the venerable breadbox Commodore 64 age, their plastic doesn’t just turn increasing shades of yellow and brown, the ABS plastic also tends to get brittle. This is a problem that seems to plague many plastic cases and enclosures, but fortunately there are some ways to halt or even reverse the heavy toll of time, with the [More Fun Making It] YouTube channel exploring a number of methods, including UV-curable resin, PETG 3D-printed clips and silicone molds.

Aside from large-scale damage, screw posts tend to snap off a lot, either during shipping or when merely trying to open the case. The same is true for the clips around the edge of the C64 case, which rarely survive that long. Gluing a case clip back on with epoxy or such somewhat works, but is messy and not that durable.

Instead UV resin is used, together with newly printed clips in translucent PETG. The remnants of the old clips are removed, followed by the application of the resin. The clips are actually a modified version of a VIC-20 case clip design by [Ken Mills]. With the UV resin as glue, curing is almost instant with a UV lamp unlike the tedious process with epoxy.

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DIY Grid Dip Meter Teardown

January 7, 2026 by Al Williams 5 Comments

You don’t see them much anymore, but there was a time when any hobbyist who dealt with RF probably had a grid dip meter. The idea was to have an oscillator and measure the grid current as it coupled to external circuits. At resonance, the grid current would go down or dip, hence the name. In the hands of someone who knew how to use it, the meter could measure inductance, capacitance, tuned circuits, antennas, and more. [Thomas] takes a peek inside a homebrew unit from the 1950s in a recent video you can see below.

These meters often have a few things in common. They usually have a plug-in coil near the top and a big tuning capacitor. Of course, there’s also a meter. You have to pick the right coil for the frequency of interest, which both sets the oscillator frequency range and couples to the circuit under test.

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Repairing A Self-Destructing SRS DG535 Digital Delay Generator

January 7, 2026 by Maya Posch No comments

There’s a lot of laboratory equipment out there that the casual hobbyist will never need to use, but that doesn’t mean you wouldn’t snap it up if the price is right. That’s what happened when [Tom Verbeure] saw a 1980s digital delay generator at a flea market for $40. Not only is it an excellent way to learn something about these devices, but it also provides a fascinating opportunity to troubleshoot and hopefully fix it. Such was also the case with this Stanford Research Systems (SRS) DG535 that turned out to be not only broken, but even features an apparently previously triggered self-destruct feature.

These devices are pretty basic, with this specimen incorporating a Z80 MPU in addition to digital and analog components to provide a programmable delay with 12.5 nanosecond resolution on its output channels after the input trigger is sensed. For that reason it was little surprise that the problem with the device was with its supply rails, of which a few were dead or out of spec, along with a burned-out trace.

Where the self-destruct feature comes into play is with the use of current boosting resistors around its linear regulators. Although these provide a current boost over what the regulator can provide, their disadvantages include a tendency towards destruction whenever the load on the supply rail decreases. This could for example occur when you’re debugging an issue and leave some of the PCBs disconnected.

Unsurprisingly, this issue caused the same charred trace to reignite during [Tom]’s first repair attempt, but after working up the courage over the subsequent 18 months the second repair attempt went much better, also helped by the presence of the mostly correct original board schematics.

Ultimately the fixes were relatively modest, involving replacing a discrete diode bridge with an integrated one, fixing the -9 V rail with a bodge wire, and replacing the LCD with its busted AC-powered backlight with a modern one with a LED backlight. Fortunately running the 5 V rail at 7 V for a while seemed to have caused no readily observable damage, nor did flipping connectors because of SRS’ inconsistent ‘standards’ for its connector orientations.

Sadly, when [Tom] emailed SRS to inquire about obtaining an updated schematic for this unit — which is currently still being sold new for $4,495 — he merely got told to send his unit in for repair.

Testing 8 Solder Flux Pastes After Flux Killed A GeForce2 GTS

December 20, 2025 by Maya Posch 18 Comments

Riesba NC-559-ASM flux being applied. (Credit: Bits und Bolts, YouTube)

Flux is one of those things that you cannot really use too much of during soldering, as it is essential for cleaning the surface and keeping oxygen out, but as [Bits und Bolts] recently found, not all flux is made the same. After ordering the same fake Amtech flux from the same AliExpress store, he found that the latest batch didn’t work quite the same, resulting in a Geforce 2 GTS chip getting cooked while trying to reball the chip with uncooperative flux.

Although it’s easy to put this down to a ‘skill issue’, the subsequent test of eight different flux pastes ordered from both AliExpress and Amazon, including — presumably genuine — Mechanic flux pastes with reballing a section of a BGA chip, showed quite different flux characteristics, as you can see in the video below. Although all of these are fairly tacky flux pastes, with some, the solder balls snapped easily into place and gained a nice sheen afterwards, while others formed bridges and left a pockmarked surface that’s indicative of oxygen getting past the flux barrier.

Not all flux pastes are made the same, which also translates into how easy the flux remnants are to clean up. So-called ‘no clean’ flux pastes are popular, which take little more than some IPA to do the cleaning, rather than specialized PCB cleaners as with the used Mechanic flux. Although the results of these findings are up for debate, it can probably be said that ordering clearly faked brand flux paste is a terrible idea. While the top runner brand Riesba probably doesn’t ring any bells, it might be just a Chinese brand name that doesn’t have a Western presence.

As always, caveat emptor, and be sure to read those product datasheets. If your flux product doesn’t come with a datasheet, that would be your first major red flag. Why do we need flux? Find out.

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