USB-C For Hackers: Reusing Cables

Your project needs a cable, and since USB-C cables are omnipresent now, it’s only natural to want to reuse them for your evil schemes. Ever seen USB 3.0 cables used for PCIe link carrying duty? It’s because USB 3.0 cables are built to a reasonably high standard, both sockets and cables are easy to find, and they’re cheap. Well, USB-C cables beat USB 3.0 cables by all possible metrics.

Let’s go through USB-C cable reuse in great detail, and see just what exactly you get when you buy either a gas station C-C USB 2.0 cable, or, the fanciest all-features-supported 240 W Thunderbolt cable that money can buy. Looking for a cable to cut, or something to pass a seriously high-speed link? You’re reading the right article.

The Omnipresent Cables

USB-A to USB-C cables are the least interesting. They’re equivalent to a microUSB to USB-A cable, except there’s a resistor on the USB-C plug, connected from VBUS to one of the CC pins. That’s it. The cable contains four conductors, there’s really not much new. Save these cables for all the devices still built without the 5.1 kΩ resistors.

Now, a USB-C to USB-C cable – let’s say, 60 W max, the default USB-C cable capability. If your cable says anything less than 60 W, say, “2 A” or “15 W”, that’s a lie – it can handle 60 W no problem, all USB-C to C cables can do 60 W. This cable is also cool – for one, it has five conductors; GND, VBUS, D+, D-, and CC. Two of them (GND and VBUS) are guaranteed to be thick enough to carry 3 A without much voltage drop if any, too!

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Power Supply With Benchtop Features Fits In Your Pocket

[CentyLab]’s PocketPD isn’t just adorably tiny — it also boasts some pretty useful features. It offers a lightweight way to get a precisely adjustable output of 0 to 20 V at up to 5 A with banana jack output, integrating a rotary encoder and OLED display for ease of use.

PocketPD leverages USB-C Power Delivery (PD), a technology with capabilities our own [Arya Voronova] has summarized nicely. In particular, PocketPD makes use of the Programmable Power Supply (PPS) functionality to precisely set and control voltage and current. Doing this does require a compatible USB-C charger or power bank, but that’s not too big of an ask these days.

Even if an attached charger doesn’t support PPS, PocketPD can still be useful. The device interrogates the attached charger on every bootup, and displays available options. By default PocketPD selects the first available 5 V output mode with chargers that don’t support PPS.

The latest hardware version is still in development and the GitHub repository has all the firmware, which is aimed at making it easy to modify or customize. Interested in some hardware? There’s a pre-launch crowdfunding campaign you can watch.

PicoROM, A DIP-32 8-Bit ROM Emulator

As we all know, when developing software for any platform or simply hacking a bit of code to probe how something works, the ability to deploy code rapidly is a huge help. [Martin Donlon], aka [wickerwaka], is well known in retro gaming and arcade hardware reverse engineering circles and had the usual issues figuring out how an arcade CPU board worked while developing a MiSTer core. Some interesting ASICs needed quite a bit of poking, and changing the contents of socketed ERPOMs is a labour-intensive process. The solution was PicoROM, a nicely designed ROM emulator in a handy DIP-32 form factor.

As the title suggests, PicoROM is based on the Raspberry Pi RP2040. It emulates an 8-bit ROM up to 2MBits in size with speeds up to 100ns. Since it uses the RP2040, USB connectivity is simple, enabling rapid uploading of new images to one (or more) PicoROMs in mere seconds. A vertically orientated USB-C connector allows multiple PicoROMs to be cabled to the host without interfering with neighbouring hardware. The firmware running on core 1 passes data from the internal 264K SRAM, using the PIO block as a bus interface to the target. A neat firmware feature is the addition of a mechanism to use a ROM region as a bidirectional control channel, which the software running on the target can use to communicate back to the host computer. This allows remote triggering of actions and the reporting of responses. Responses which may not be physically observable externally. [Martin] is using this feature extensively to help probe the functionality of some special function chips on the target boards, which is still a slow process but helped massively by reducing that critical software iteration time. The PCB was designed with KiCAD. The project files for which can be found here.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen the RP2040 used for ROM emulation; here’s a pile of wires that does the same job. It just isn’t as pretty. Of course, if you really must use EPROMs, then you could give this sweet programmer a look over.

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Open-Source, 3D Printed Trackpad

Touchpads, or trackpads, have been around since the 1980s. Today, you can often find them in laptops and notebook computers as pointing devices. With no moving parts, a trackpad are easy to integrate into the body of a portable computer.  they’re much smaller than the traditional mouse. Until the advent of multitouch and gestures over the past two decades, though, they were generally poor substitutes for an actual mouse. These days, trackpads have enough features that some users prefer them even on their desktop computers. If you’re that type of person and don’t want to shell out a big pile of money for an Apple, Logitech, or other off-the-shelf trackpad you can always build your own.

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Two hands hold a rounded rectangular case with a small lollipop-shaped cutout. The case is dark grey with a bit of white protruding between the two halves in the middle.

Add USB-C To Your AirPods The Easy Way

While the death of Apple’s Lightning Connector can’t come soon enough, swapping the ports on their products as “category-defining innovations” seems a bit of a stretch. [Ken Pillonel] has designed a set of streamlined, repairable, USB-C adapters for the AirPods, AirPods Pro, and AirPods Max that show Apple what innovation really means.

If you’ve followed [Pillonel]’s work in the past, you’ll know he’s as a big a fan of repairability as we are here, so this isn’t just a cheap knockoff dongle that’ll be in the trash as fast as your counterfeit wireless earbuds. In the video below, he walks us through his quest start-to-finish to design something compact that gives you all the joys of USB-C without the pain of buying a whole new set of headphones.

We like the iteration on the connector, showing that flexible circuits can do some amazing things, but are still subject to failure at extreme angles. Using a combination of 3D printing, a cool robot sandblasting machine, a pick-and-place, and some old fashioned hand soldering, [Pillonel] treats us to a polished final product that’s put together with actual screws and not adhesive. His designs are all open source, so you can DIY, or he sells finished copies in his shop if you want to give one to your less-than-techy relatives.

[Pillonel] may seem familiar as he’s the guy who added USB-C to the iPhone before Apple and redesigned the AirPods Pro case for repairability. Apple is getting better about repair in some of its devices, for sure, but unsurprisingly, hackers do it better.

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Review: IFixit’s FixHub May Be The Last Soldering Iron You Ever Buy

Like many people who solder regularly, I decided years ago to upgrade from a basic iron and invest in a soldering station. My RadioShack digital station has served me well for the better part of 20 years. It heats up fast, tips are readily available, and it’s a breeze to dial in whatever temperature I need. It’s older than both of my children, has moved with me to three different homes, and has outlived two cars and one marriage (so far, anyway).

When I got this, Hackaday still used B&W pictures.

As such, when the new breed of “smart” USB-C soldering irons started hitting the scene, I didn’t find them terribly compelling. Oh sure, I bought a Pinecil. But that’s because I’m an unrepentant open source zealot and love the idea that there’s a soldering iron running a community developed firmware. In practice though, I only used the thing a few times, and even then it was because I needed something portable. Using it at home on the workbench? It just never felt up to the task of daily use.

So when iFixit got in contact a couple weeks back and said they had a prototype USB-C soldering iron they wanted me to take a look at, I was skeptical to say the least. But then I started reading over the documentation they sent over, and couldn’t deny that they had some interesting ideas. For one, it was something of a hybrid iron. It was portable when you needed it to be, yet offered the flexibility and power of a station when you were at the bench.

Even better, they were planning on putting their money where their mouth is. The hardware was designed with repairability in mind at every step. Not only was it modular and easy to open up, but the company would be providing full schematics, teardown guides, and spare parts.

Alright, fine. Now you’ve got my attention.

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Rescuing High-Res Displays From Older Macs

When Apple started rolling out its Retina displays, it multiplied the amount of pixels compared to their standard, non-Retina displays by four. This increased pixel density while keeping the standard screen size — idea for those needing a lot of detail for their work. But, as is common with Apple, using these displays outside of the Apple ecosystem can be quite a challenge. Retina displays have been around for about a decade now, though, with some third-party hardware able to break them free of their cage. This post details how [Kevin] liberated the 5K display from a 2017 iMac for more general use with support for USB-C.

The first step was to find a used iMac for the right price, and then sell off most of its parts to recoup most of the initial cost. That brought the cost of the panel itself to about $250. The key to getting the display working without all of the Apple hardware is the R1811 driver board, which can be had for around $300. A new 156 watt power supply was added to the mix, and [Kevin] also put in a few extras like a USB cable extension and a latching push-button which kills the display’s power. Additionally, he attempted to get the original iMac speakers working with this setup too, but none of his attempts resulted in anything close to quality sound so he’s mostly abandoned that extra feature for now.

With that all buttoned up, he has a 27″ 5K display with USB-C input for around $650 which is quite a deal. The MacRumors thread that [Kevin] added his project to currently has around 1,700 posts about similar builds too, so it can be a wealth of information for all kinds of models. As Apple drops support for their older machines, these displays will become more and more common and projects like these can keep a lot of e-waste out of the landfill while also providing decent hardware at a bargain price. Don’t just look for iMacs and MacBooks though; there’s a similar process to use various iPad displays for other things as well.