Running A Philips CD-i Off USB-C

The Philips CD-i is a console with many shortcomings, and those include the power supply. For whatever reason, the engineering team decided it should use an 8P8C connector just like Ethernet. Thus, just like your Ethernet cables, it has that annoying problem of the tab snapping off all the time. [MattKC] wondered if the CD-i could benefit from a USB power upgrade instead, and set about making it a reality.

The plan was simple enough—get the CD-i running off of USB-C instead of the ungainly original power supply that shipped with the unit. Given the console runs almost exclusively off of 5 V power, it should have been pretty easy. Only, the original spec adds one little detail that makes things a bit harder. The console is designed to draw up to 3 A from the 5 V line, while also having a -5 V line at 0.2 A. If not for that negative supply, it would have been easy to run the unit off any old 15 W USB-C charger spitting out 5 V. That extra negative line complicates things, because while the negative line could be created with some supporting electronics, it’s hard to find that extra watt from most chargers. While there are plenty of higher-wattage USB-C chargers, the majority tend to use higher voltages to deliver the additional power, capping the 5 V output at 3 amps.

Thus, it was necessary to work a little harder. [MattKC] decided to build a board that would negotiate with a USB-C charger for 9 V operation to get the power budget necessary. This would then be stepped down to 5 V, while there would also be an inversion step to supply the -5 V line, too. A CH221K chip does the job of negotiating a 9 V USB-C power supply, while a TPSM84538 steps the voltage down to 5 V with the capacity to supply up to 5 A. An LT3580 chip then inverts this voltage for the 5 V line. There’s also a power switching circuit on board because the CD-i included some of that functionality in the original power brick.

If you’ve got a CD-i and you’re sick of fussing with the original power supply, this could be a great upgrade. We’ve also explored USB Power Delivery in detail before, if you need a primer.

Teardown Of A USB-C Cable With Integrated LCD

The past years we have been seeing screens pop up in many new places, but seeing them in USB-C cables is still a bit of a novel thing. Out of sheer curiosity [Aaron Christophel] recently took apart one of these, to see what’s inside and what else you can do with them beyond fondling its single touch control and watch reported voltages and current.

Naturally, these devices aren’t exactly meant to be serviced by anyone, so the biggest challenge is to get into them without too much violence. Risking a blood sacrifice to the Hardware Gods, [Aaron] first attacks the display cover of this €15, 240 Watt-rated UGreen cable with sharp utensils before just taking apart the aluminium case, which ultimately gets him inside.

After this it’s clear that attacking the display cover was the right way, just requiring knowing where to apply pressure in order to invert the assembly process. Following that it’s less clear how it was assembled, though it may have involved liberal amounts of glue after sliding in the components. Rather than bothering with applying heat, instead some side-cutters quickly take care of that pesky aluminium shell.

The tiny IPS LC display is attached via a flat flex cable to the PCB with a connector, with the PCB featuring multiple voltage regulators, a MOSFET for the backlight and other parts in addition to the EN32LF056 marked MCU. After some prodding on the exposed SWD interface, it was confirmed to be a Cortex-M0+-based MCU with 64 kB of Flash and 4 kB of SRAM, which made it easy enough to use the little display to display some video frames of everyone’s favorite artist.

Since this MCU is only wired up to measure currents and voltages it cannot use the USB interface, but with some knowledge of how to non-destructively disassemble one of these connectors at least to the point of accessing the SWD pads underneath the display it could be a fun party trick to reflash the firmware with something custom.

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Pinch Puts An Arduino On A USB-C Connector

Compared to the Arduino Uno of old, modern microcontrollers are absolutely tiny — especially for the amount of processing power and I/O you get. But if you need something really small, like fits-on-the-tip-of-your-finger small, most of the turn-key development boards on the market are still a bit too big.

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Powering USB Devices With A Bench Supply Adapter Board

Sometimes you wanna test a piece of USB hardware, but you don’t just want to plug it into a random old phone charger. [KS-Elektronikdesign] has whipped up a useful tool for just that case, allowing one to easily power USB hardware from a common bench supply.

It would have been simple enough to whip up an adapter board to connect banana jacks to the power pins of a regular USB port. Easing the hookup process was indeed a part of the motivation for this project, in making it easy to power hardware that hooks up via USB-A and USB-C. However, it also goes a little further. It includes TUSB319 chip to handle the all-important power negotiation, without which many USB devices will not feel confident drawing their required amount of current.

There is also polarity protection and over-voltage protection to stop you from blowing stuff up if you hook the board up wrong, which might save you a smartphone or three in the lab. The board will allow negotiated output power up to 10 W via USB-A and 15 W via USB-C, which isn’t heaps, but will be fine for lots of smaller devices. You can up that to 25 W and 35 W respectively if the board is switched to pass-through mode. We particularly like the physical design—the board will plug straight into the banana plugs on any supply with a jack spacing of 19 to 23 mm.

Overall, this is a useful tool to have in the lab if you want to run USB hardware with the flexibility of the voltage and current limits available on your bench supply. There are other ways to power modern USB devices, too, and you can do all kinds of wild stuff if you learn about USB PD and USB PPS. If you’re working up your own nifty lab tools for similar purposes, we’d love to know about it on the tipsline.

DIY Reflow Plate Runs On USB Power Delivery

If you’re working with surface mount components, you’re likely going to want a reflow plate at some point. [Vitaly] was in need of just such a tool, and thus whipped up a compact reflow plate that is conveniently powered via USB-C. 

This reflow rig is designed for smaller work, with a working area of 80 mm x 70 mm. There are two options for the heating element—either a metal core PCB-based heater, or a metal ceramic heater. The former is good for working with Sn42Bi58 solder paste at 138 C, according to [Vitaly], while the latter will happily handle Sn63Pb37 at 183 C if the dirty stuff is more your jam.

Running the show is an ESP32-C3-WROOM, which serves up a web-based control panel over Bluetooth for setting the heating profiles. Using Bluetooth over WiFi might seem like an odd choice at first, but it means you don’t have to add the hot plate to the local wireless network to access it, handy if you’re on the move. It’s also worth noting that you can’t run this off any old USB charger—you’ll need one compatible with USB Power Delivery (PD) that can deliver at least 100 watts.

If you’re needing to whip up small boards with regularity, a hotplate like this one can really come in handy. Files are on GitHub for those eager to build their own.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen USB-C powering a small reflow plate. Of course, if you make your PCBs self heating, you can sidestep all that entirely.

Easily Replaceable USB-C Port Spawned By EU Laws

The USB-C port has become a defacto connectivity standard for modern devices, largely supplanting the ugly mess of barrel jacks and micro USB connectors that once cursed us. While their reliability is good, they don’t last forever, and can be a pain to replace in most devices if they do fail. However, a new part from JAE Electronics could change that.

The problem with replacing USB connectors in most hardware is that they’re soldered in place. To swap them out, you have to master both desoldering and soldering leads of a rather fine pitch. It’s all rather messy. In the interest of satisfying the EU’s new Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), JAE Electronics has developed a USB-C connector that’s easier to replace. Rather than being soldered in, the part is simply clamped down on to a printed circuit board with small screws. As the part is torqued down, small gold-plated contacts are compressed into pads on the PCB to make the necessary contact.

The connector is fully compatible with USB 4 version 2.0. (Don’t ask us how they number these things anymore.) It comes in single and dual connector versions, and is capable of USB PD EPR at up to 240 W (5A/48V). The part does have some drawbacks—namely, the footprint of the metal-shelled part is somewhat larger than most soldered USB C connectors. Whether this precludes its use is very much an application-specific matter for product engineers to decide.

In any case, if you find yourself designing hardware with heavily-used USB C ports, you might find this part useful. It’s not widely available yet, but some parts should be landing at Mouser in coming months. We’ve explored some of the ways USB-C connectors can be fouled and damaged before, too. Sound off with your opinions on this new part in the comments.

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Graphing Calculator Gets USB-C Upgrade

Unlike Texas Instruments, whose graphing calculators have famously not made technological improvements in decades despite keeping the same price tag, HP has made a few more modern graphing calculators in the last few years. One of which is the HP Prime which boasts hardware from the mid-2010s including an ARM processor, a color screen, and rechargeable lithium battery. But despite this updated hardware it’s still using micro-USB for data and charging. [David] wanted to fix that by giving this calculator a USB-C port.

The first steps were disassembling the calculator case and removing the micro-USB port. The PCB is glued to the LCD screen which isn’t ideal, but he was able to work on it with everything attached. The parts are small enough to need a microscope, and with a hot air station he was quickly able to remove the USB port. His replacements from a generic online retailer were able to be soldered without much effort, but there was one major complication. The new USB-C ports didn’t account for the “On The Go” mode supported by micro-USB and were shorting a pin to ground which put the calculator into “host” mode instead of acting as a device. But using the microscope and cutting a trace on the PCB disabled this mode permanently and got the calculator working properly.

As far as modernizing calculators go, it seems like the HP Prime checks a lot of boxes, with the major downside that the LCD screen and more powerful processor means that the battery needs to be charged more often than the old TI calculators. Rather than carry a dongle around everywhere, [David] found this to be a much more efficient change to his trusty HP. If you’re still stuck using TI calculators, though, there are a few ways to modernize those as well like this build which adds a lithium battery or this one which ports a few Game Boy games to the platform.