Original PlayStation Brought Up To Date

In a satisfying blend of classic console restoration and modern modding, [Elliot] from the Retro Future channel has transformed a broken, dirty PlayStation into what they call the “ultimate PS1.”

PicoStation ZeroWire. Note the wire.

The first step was to deal with the really grungy case. The shell was soaked in dish soap and given a good brushing before being packed and sent to a collaborator. Upon inspection of the internals, several unknown modifications to the PCB were evident. These were likely to support playing home-burned copies of pirated games, as well as an NTSC region hack (for this PAL version of the console), courtesy of a dodgy-looking crystal oscillator hanging on the end of some wires.

Luckily, the PS1 product design is highly modular, giving excellent repairability, which made reversing this a doddle. The mod wiring was removed by simply desoldering it, but the cut traces needed to be cleaned up and reconnected to return it to stock condition.

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Standalone USB-PD Stack For All Your Sink Needs

USB PD is a fun protocol to explore, but it can be a bit complex to fully implement. It makes sense we’re seeing new stacks pop up all the time, and today’s stack is a cool one as far as code reusability goes. [Vitaly] over on Hackaday.io brings us pdsink – a C++ based PD stack with no platform dependencies, and fully-featured sink capabilities.

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DIY USB-C PD Tools

USB-C PD Decoded: A DIY Meter And Logger For Power Insights

As USB-C PD becomes more and more common, it’s useful to have a tool that lets you understand exactly what it’s doing—no longer is it limited to just 5 V. This DIY USB-C PD tool, sent in by [ludwin], unlocks the ability to monitor voltage and current, either on a small screen built into the device or using Wi-Fi.

This design comes in two flavors: with and without screen. The OLED version is based on an STM32, and the small screen shows you the voltage, current, and wattage flowing through the device. The Wi-Fi PD logger version uses an ESP-01s to host a small website that shows you those same values, but with the additional feature of being able to log that data over time and export a CSV file with all the collected data, which can be useful when characterizing the power draw of your project over time.

Both versions use the classic INA219 in conjunction with a 50 mΩ shunt resistor, allowing for readings in the 1 mA range. The enclosure is 3D-printed, and the files for it, as well as all the electronics and firmware, are available over on the GitHub page. Thanks [ludwin] for sending in this awesome little tool that can help show the performance of your USB-C PD project. Be sure to check out some of the other USB-C PD projects we’ve featured.

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USB-C-ing All The Things

Wall warts. Plug mounted power supplies that turn mains voltage into low voltage DC on a barrel jack to power a piece of equipment. We’ve all got a load of them for our various devices, most of us to the extent that it becomes annoying. [Mikeselectricstuff] has the solution, in the shape of a USB-C PD power supply designed to replace a barrel jack socket on a PCB.

The video below provides a comprehensive introduction to the topic before diving into the design. The chip in question is the CH224K, and he goes into detail on ordering the boards for yourself. As the design files are freely available, we wouldn’t be surprised if they start turning up from the usual suppliers before too long.

We like this project and we can see that it would be useful, after all it’s easy to end up in wall wart hell. We’ve remarked before that USB-C PD is a new technology done right, and this is the perfect demonstration of its potential.

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USB VSense

USB-C Rainbow Ranger: Sensing Volts With Style

USB-C has enabled a lot of great things, most notably removing the no less than three attempts to plug in the cable correctly, but gone are the days of just 5V over those lines. [Meticulous Technologies] sent in their project to help easily identify what voltage your USB-C line is running at, the USB VSense.

The USB VSense is an inline board that has USB-C connectors on either end, and supporting up to 240W you don’t have to worry about it throttling your device. One of the coolest design aspects of this board is that it uses stacked PCB construction as the enclosure, the display, and the PCB doing all the sensing and displaying. And for sensing this small device has a good number of cool tricks, it will sense all the eight common USB-C voltages, but it will also measure and alert you to variations of the voltage outside the normal range by blinking the various colored LEDs in specific patterns. For instance should you have it plugged into a line that’s sitting over 48V the VSense white 48V LED will be rapidly blinking, warning you that something in your setup has gone horribly wrong.

Having dedicated uniquely colored LEDs for each common level allows you to at a glance know what the voltage is at without the need to read anything. With a max current draw of less than 6mA you won’t feel bad about using it on a USB battery pack for many applications.

The USB VSense has completed a small production run and has stated their intention to open source their design as soon as possible after their Crowd Supply campaign. We’ve featured other USB-C PD projects and no doubt we’ll be seeing more as this standard continues to gain traction with more and more devices relying on it for their DC power.

The Most Trustworthy USB-C Cable Is DIY

We like USB-C here at Hackaday, but like all specifications it is up to manufacturers to follow it and sometimes… they don’t. Sick of commercial cables either don’t label their safe wattage, or straight up lie about it, [GreatScott!] decided to DIY his own ultimate USB-C-PD cable for faster charging in his latest video, which is embedded below.

It’s a very quick project that uses off-the-shelf parts from Aliexpress: the silicone-insulated cable, the USB-C plugs (one with the all-important identifier chip), and the end shells. The end result is a bit more expensive than a cable from Aliexpress, but it is a lot more trustworthy. Unlike the random cable from Aliexpress, [GreatScott!] can be sure his has enough copper in it to handle the 240W it is designed for. It should also work nicely with USB PPS, which he clued us into a while back. While [GreatScott!] was focusing here on making a power cable, he did hook up the low-speed data lines, giving him a trustworthy USB2.0 connection.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen someone test USB gear and find it wanting, though the problem may have improved in the last few years. Nowadays it’s the data cables you cannot trust, so maybe rolling your own data cables will make a comeback. (Which would at least be less tedious than than DB-25 was back in the day. Anyone else remember doing that?) USB-C can get pretty complicated when it comes to all its data modes, but we have an explainer to get you started on that. Continue reading “The Most Trustworthy USB-C Cable Is DIY”

Why USB-C Splitters Can Cause Magic Smoke Release

Using USB for powering devices is wonderful, as it frees us from a tangle of incompatible barrel & TRS connectors, not to mention a veritable gaggle of proprietary power connectors. The unfortunate side-effect of this is that the obvious thing to do with power connectors is to introduce splitters, which can backfire horribly, especially since USB-C and USB Power Delivery (USB-PD) were introduced. The [Quiescent Current] channel on YouTube recently went over the ways in which these handy gadgets can literally turn your USB-powered devices into a smoldering pile of ashes.

Much like Qualcomm’s Quick Charge protocols, USB-PD negotiates higher voltages with the power supply, after which this same voltage will be provided to any device that’s tapped into the power supply lines of the USB connector. Since USB-C has now also taken over duties like analog audio jacks, this has increased the demand for splitters, but these introduce many risks. Unless you know how these splitters are wired inside, your spiffy smartphone may happily negotiate 20V that will subsequently fry a USB-powered speaker that was charging off the same splitter.

In the video only a resistor and LED were sacrificed to make the point, but in a real life scenario the damage probably would be significantly more expensive.

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