Railway End Table Powered By Hand Crank

Most end tables that you might find in a home are relatively static objects. However, [Peter Waldraff] of Tiny World Studios likes to build furniture that’s a little more interesting. Thus came about this beautiful piece with a real working railway built right in.

The end table was built from scratch, with [Peter] going through all the woodworking steps required to assemble the piece. The three-legged wooden table is topped with a tiny N-scale model railway layout, and you get to see it put together including the rocks, the grass, and a beautiful epoxy river complete with a bridge. The railway runs a Kato Pocket Line trolley, but the really neat thing is how it’s powered.

[Peter] shows us how a small gearmotor generator was paired with a bridge rectifier and a buck converter to fill up a super capacitor that runs the train and lights up the tree on the table. Just 25 seconds of cranking will run the train anywhere from 4 to 10 minutes depending on if the tree is lit as well. To top it all off, there’s even a perfect coaster spot for [Peter]’s beverage of choice.

It’s a beautiful kinetic sculpture and a really fun way to build a small model railway that fits perfectly in the home. We’ve featured some other great model railway builds before, too.

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Running Video Through A Guitar Effects Pedal

Guitar pedals are designed to take in a sound signal, do fun stuff to it, and then spit it out to your amplifier where it hopefully impresses other people. However, [Liam Taylor] decided to see what would happen if you fed video through a guitar pedal instead. 

The device under test is a Boss ME-50 multi-effects unit. It’s capable of serving up a wide range of effects, from delay to chorus to reverb, along with compression and distortion and a smattering of others. [Liam] hooked up the composite video output from an old Sony camcorder from the 2000s to a 3.5 mm audio jack, and plugged it straight into the auxiliary input of the ME-50 (notably, not the main guitar input of the device).

The multi-effects pedal isn’t meant to work with an analog video signal, but it can pass it through and do weird things to it regardless. Using the volume pedal on the ME-50 puts weird lines on the signal, while using a wah effect makes everything a little wobbly. [Liam] then steps through a whole range of others, like ring modulation, octave effects, and reverb, all of which do different weird things to the visuals. Particularly fun are some of the periodic effects which create predictable variation to the signal. True to its name, the distortion effect did a particularly good job of messing things up overall.

It’s a fun experiment, and recalls us of some of the fantastic analog video synths of years past. Video after the break.

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Old Desk Phone Gets DOOM Port

Old desk phones are fairly useless these days unless you’re building a corporate PBX in your house. However, they can be fun to hack on, as [0x19] demonstrates by porting DOOM to a Snom 360 office phone. 

The Snom 360 is a device from the early VoIP era, with [ox19] laying their hands on some examples from 2005. The initial plan was just to do some telephony with Asterisk, but [ox19] soon realized more was possible. Digging into a firmware image revealed the device ran a Linux kernel on a MIPS chip, so the way forward became obvious.

They set about hacking the phone to run DOOM on its ancient single-color LCD. Doing so was no mean feat. It required compilation of custom firmware, pulling over a better version of BusyBox, and reworking doomgeneric to run on this oddball platform. It also required figuring out how the keyboard was read and the screen was driven to write custom drivers—not at all trivial things on a bespoke phone platform. With all that done, though, [0x19] had a dodgy version of DOOM running slowly on a desk phone on a barely-legible LCD display.

Porting DOOM is generally a task done more for the technical thrill than to actually play the game on terribly limited hardware. We love seeing it done, whether the game is ported to a LEGO brick or a pair of earbuds. If you’re doing your own silly port, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline—just make sure it’s one we haven’t seen before.

Designing A Pen Clip That Never Bends Out Of Shape

If you’ve ever used a ballpoint pen with a clip on the top, you’ve probably noticed they bend pretty easily. The clip relies on you only bending it a small amount to clip it on to things; bend it too far, and it ends up permanently deformed. [Craighill] decided to develop a pen clip that didn’t suffer this ugly malady. 

The wire clip design easily opens wide because the spring wire is not actually deforming much at all. Credit: YouTube video, via screenshot

The problem with regular pen clips comes down to simple materials science. Bend the steel clip a little bit, and the stress in the material remains below the elastic limit—so it springs back to its original shape. Push it too far, though, and you’ll end up getting into the plastic deformation region, where you’ve applied so much stress that the material is permanently deformed.

[Craighill] noted this problem, and contemplated whether a better type of clip was possible. An exploration of carabiner clips served to highlight possible solutions. Some carabiners using elastically-deformed closures that faced the same problem, while others used more complicated spring closures or a nifty bent-wire design. This latter solution seemed perfect for building a non-deforming pen clip. The bent wire is effectively a small spring, which allows it to act as a clip to hold the pen on to something. However, it’s also able to freely rotate out from the pen body, limiting the amount of actual stress put on the material itself, which stops it entering the plastic deformation region that would ruin it.

It’s some neat materials science combined with a pleasant bit of inventing, which we love to see. Sometimes there is joy to be had in contemplating and improving even the simplest of things. Video after the break.

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Back To Basics: Hacking On Key Matrixes

A lot of making goes on in this community these days, but sometimes you’ve just gotta do some old fashioned hacking. You might have grabbed an old Speak and Spell that you want to repurpose as an interface for a horrifyingly rude chatbot, or you’ve got a calculator that is going to become the passcode keypad for launching your DIY missiles. You want to work with the original hardware, but you need to figure out how to interface all the buttons yourself.

Thankfully, this is usually an easy job. The vast majority of buttons and keypads and keyboards are all implemented pretty much the same way. Once you know the basics of how to work with them, hooking them up is easy. It’s time to learn about key matrixes!

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Building A Hackerspace Entry System

A hackerspace is a place that generally needs to be accessed by a wide group of people, often at weird and unusual hours. Handing around keys and making sure everything is properly locked up can be messy, too. To make it easy for hackers to get in to [Peter]’s local hackerspace, a simple electronic system was whipped up to grant access.

The combined use of QR code & PIN adds a layer of security.

The basic components of the system are a keypad, a QR code and barcode scanner, a stepper motor, an Arduino Nano, and a Raspberry Pi. The keypad is read by an Arduino Nano, which is also responsible for talking to a stepper motor driver to actuate the lock cylinder. A secondary Arduino mounted inside the building is used to control the stepper motor, which actuates the lock cylinder once authentication is complete.

The system works on the basis of two-factor authentication. Regular users authenticate to enter by presenting a QR code or barcode, and entering a matching PIN number. The system can also be set up for PIN-only entry on a temporary basis.

For example, if the hackerspace is running an event, a simple four-digit pin can allow relatively free access for the duration without compromising long-term security. Actual authentication is handled by the Raspberry Pi, which takes in the scanned barcode and/or PIN, hashes it, and checks it against a backend database which determines if the credentials are valid for entry. If so,they command the second Arduino to unlock the door.

While it’s not technically necessary for a project like this — in fact, you could argue it’s preposterously overkill — we have to take particular note of the machined aluminum enclosure for the keypad. Mere mortals could just run it off on their 3D printers, but if you’ve got access to a CNC router and a suitably chunky piece of aluminum, why not show off a bit?

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C64 Gets A Modern Interactive Disassembler

If you want to pull apart a program to see how it ticks, you’re going to need a disassembler. [Ricardo Quesada] has built Regenerator 2000 for just that purpose. It’s a new interactive disassembler for the Commodore 64 platform.

Naturally, Regenerator 2000 is built with full support for the 6502 instruction set, including undocumented op-codes as well. It’s able to automatically create labels and comments and can be paired with the VICE C64 emulator for live debugging. You can do all the usual debug stuff like inspecting registers, stepping through code, and setting breakpoints and watchpoints when you’re trying to figure out how something works. It can even show you sprites, bitmaps, and character sets right in the main window.

Files are on Github if you’re ready to dive in. You might find this tool to be a useful companion to C64 assembly tools we’ve featured previously, as well. If you’re pulling off your own retro development hacks, be sure to notify the tipsline.

[Thanks to Stephen Waters for the tip!]