PLA With PETG Core Filament Put To The Test

The Stronghero 3D hybrid PLA PETG filament, with visible PETG core. (Credit: My Tech Fun, YouTube)
The Stronghero 3D hybrid PLA PETG filament, with visible PETG core. (Credit: My Tech Fun, YouTube)

Sometimes you see an FDM filament pop up that makes you do a triple-take because it doesn’t seem to make a lot of sense. This is the case with a hybrid PLA/PETG filament by Stronghero 3D  that features a PETG core. This filament also intrigued [Dr. Igor Gaspar] who imported a spool from the US to have a poke at it to see why you’d want to combine these two filament materials.

According to the manufacturer, the PLA outside makes up 60% of the filament, with the rest being the PETG core. The PLA is supposed to shield the PETG from moisture, while adding more strength and weather resistance to the PLA after printing. Another interesting aspect is the multi-color look that this creates, and which [Igor]’s prints totally show. Finding the right temperatures for the bed and extruder was a challenge and took multiple tries with the Bambu Lab P1P including bed adhesion troubles.

As for the actual properties of this filament, the layer adhesion test showed it to be significantly worse than plain PLA or PETG when printed at extruder temperatures from 225 °C to 245 °C. When the shear stress is put on the material instead of the layer adhesion, the results are much better, while torque resistance is better than plain PETG. This is a pattern that repeats across impact and other tests, with PETG more brittle. Thermal deformation  temperature is, unsurprisingly, between both materials, making this filament mostly a curiosity unless its properties work much better for your use case than a non-hybrid filament.

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Prusa Mini with endoscope nozzle cam and pip preview

Prusa Mini Nozzle Cam On The Cheap

Let me throw in a curveball—watching your 3D print fail in real-time is so much more satisfying when you have a crisp, up-close view of the nozzle drama. That’s exactly what [Mellow Labs] delivers in his latest DIY video: transforming a generic HD endoscope camera into a purpose-built nozzle cam for the Prusa Mini. The hack blends absurd simplicity with delightful nerdy precision, and comes with a full walkthrough, a printable mount, and just enough bad advice to make it interesting. It’s a must-see for any maker who enjoys solder fumes with their spaghetti monsters.

What makes this build uniquely brilliant is the repurposing of a common USB endoscope camera—a tool normally reserved for inspecting pipes or internal combustion engines. Instead, it’s now spying on molten plastic. The camera gets ripped from its aluminium tomb, upgraded with custom-salvaged LEDs (harvested straight from a dismembered bulb), then wrapped in makeshift heat-shrink and mounted on a custom PETG bracket. [Mellow Labs] even micro-solders in a custom connector just so the camera can be detached post-print. The mount is parametric, thanks to a community contribution.

This is exactly the sort of hacking to love—clever, scrappy, informative, and full of personality. For the tinkerers among us who like their camera mounts hot and their resistor math hotter, this build is a weekend well spent.

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Comparing Adhesives For Gluing PETG Prints

Testing every kind of glue with PETG, including wood glue. (Credit: Cosel, YouTube)
Testing every kind of glue with PETG, including wood glue. (Credit: Cosel, YouTube)

PETG is a pretty great material to print 3D models with, but one issue with it is that gluing it can be a bit of a pain. In a recent video by [Cosel] (German language, with English auto-dub) he notes that he found that with many adhesives the adhesion between PETG parts would tend to fail over time, so he set out to do a large test with just about any adhesive he could get his hands on. This included everything from epoxy to wood glue and various adhesives for plastics

TL;DR: Some superglues seem to weaken PETG, and a construction polyurethane glue is the absolute winner.

For the test, two flat surfaces were printed in PETG for each test, glued together and allowed to fully dry over multiple days. After about a week each sample was put into a rig that tried to pull the two surfaces apart while measuring the force required to do so.

With e.g. two-part epoxy and super glue the parts would break rather than the glue layer, while with others the glue layer would give way first. All of these results are noted in the above graphic that has the force listed in Newton. The special notes and symbols stand for strong smell (‘Geruch’), the PETG itself breaking (‘Substrat gebrochen’) and high variability (‘hohe Streuung’) between the multiple samples tested per adhesive.

Interesting is that multiple superglues (‘Sekundenkleber’) show different results, while MMA (Methyl Methacrylate) and similar score the highest. The Bostik P580 is a polyurethane construction adhesive, usually used for gluing just about anything to anything in interior and exterior applications, so perhaps its high score isn’t so surprising. Trailing at the end are the wood glue in last place, with the UHU general adhesive also scoring rather poorly.

Clearly there are many options for gluing PETG parts, but some are definitely more sturdy than others.

Thanks to [Risu no Kairu] for the tip.

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Printing In Multi-material? Use These Filament Combos

If one has a multi-material printer there are more options than simply printing in different colors of the same filament. [Thomas Sanladerer] explores combinations of different filaments in a fantastic article that covers not just which materials make good removable support interfaces, but also which ones stick to each other well enough together to make a multi-material print feasible. He tested an array of PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, and Flex filaments with each in both top (printed object) and bottom (support) roles.

A zero-clearance support where the object prints directly on the support structure can result in a very clean bottom surface. But only if the support can be removed easily.

People had already discovered that PETG and PLA make pretty good support for each other. [Thomas] expands on this to demonstrate that PLA doesn’t really stick very well to anything but itself, and PETG by contrast sticks really well to just about anything other than PLA.

One mild surprise was that flexible filament conforms very well to PLA, but doesn’t truly stick to it. Flex can be peeled away from PLA without too much trouble, leaving a very nice finish. That means using flex filament as a zero-clearance support interface — that is to say, the layer between the support structure and the PLA print — seems like it has potential.

Flex and PETG by contrast pretty much permanently weld themselves together, which means that making something like a box out of PETG with a little living hinge section out of flex would be doable without adhesives or fasteners. Ditto for giving a PETG object a grippy base. [Thomas] notes that flexible filaments all have different formulations, but broadly speaking they behave similarly enough in terms of what they stick to.

[Thomas] leaves us with some tips that are worth keeping in mind when it comes to supported models. One is that supports can leave tiny bits of material on the model, so try to use same or similar colors for both support and model so there’s no visual blemish. Another tip is that PLA softens slightly in hot water, so if PLA supports are clinging stubbornly to a model printed in a higher-temperature material like PETG or ABS/ASA, use some hot water to make the job a little easier. The PLA will soften first, giving you an edge. Give the video below a watch to see for yourself how the combinations act.

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Putting The New CryoGrip Build Plate To The Test

BIQU has released a new line of low-temperature build plates that look to be the next step in 3D printing’s iteration—or so YouTuber Printing Perspective thinks after reviewing one. The Cryogrip Pro is designed for the Bambu X1, P1, and A1 series of printers but could easily be adapted for other magnetic-bed machines.

The bed adhesion strength when cold is immense!

The idea of the new material is to reduce the need for high bed temperatures, keeping enclosure temperatures low. As some enclosed printer owners may know, trying to print PLA and even PETG with the door closed can be troublesome due to how slowly these materials cool. Too high an ambient temperature can wreak havoc with this cooling process, even leading to nozzle-clogging.

The new build plate purports to enable low, even ambient bed temperatures, still with maximum adhesion. Two versions are available, with the ‘frostbite’ version intended for only PLA and PETG but having the best adhesion properties.  A more general-purpose version, the ‘glacier’ sacrifices a little bed adhesion but gains the ability to handle a much wider range of materials.

An initial test with a decent-sized print showed that the bed adhesion was excellent, but after removing the print, it still looked warped. The theory was that it was due to how consistently the magnetic build plate was attached to the printer bed plate, which was now the limiting factor. Switching to a different printer seemed to ‘fix’ that issue, but that was really only needed to continue the build plate review.

They demonstrated a common issue with high-grip build plates: what happens when you try to remove the print. Obviously, magnetic build plates are designed to be removed and flexed to pop off the print, and this one is no different. The extreme adhesion, even at ambient temperature, does mean it’s even more essential to flex that plate, and thin prints will be troublesome. We guess that if these plates allow the door to be kept closed, then there are quite a few advantages, namely lower operating noise and improved filtration to keep those nasty nanoparticles in check. And low bed temperatures mean lower energy consumption, which is got to be a good thing. Don’t underestimate how much power that beefy bed heater needs!

Ever wondered what mini QR-code-like tags are on the high-end build plates? We’ve got the answer. And now that you’ve got a pile of different build plates, how do you store them and keep them clean? With this neat gadget!

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Laser Cut Clips Save A Lamp From The Trash

Ikea have been known for years as a purveyor of inexpensive  yet stylish homewares, but it’s fair to say that sometimes their affordability is reflected in their insubstantial construction. Such is the case with the Sjöpenna lamp, whose construction relies on rubber bands. On [Tony]’s lamp these bands degraded with age, causing it to fall apart. The solution? A set of cleverly-designed laser-cut clips to replace them.

The challenge to replacing a stretchy material with a rigid one is that it must have enough ability to bend without snapping as it is put in place. For this he selected PETG, with 0.04″ (about 1 mm thick) hitting the sweet spot. His photos demonstrate with some green tape added for visibility, how the clip bends backwards just far enough to fit over where the rubber band once located, and then flips back neatly to hold it all in place.

If you have a collapsing Ikea lamp then this will be just what you need, but this hack goes further than that. A frequent requirement for repairs is some kind of clip, because clips are always the first to break, This technique for laser cutting them is a handy one to remember, next time your design needs a springy bit of plastic.

Dedicated box to play new videos from a handful of content creators.

Dedicated Box Makes YouTube More TV-Like

[Exposed Wire] is a huge fan of YouTube and consumes a lot of content. If that sounds familiar, maybe you should build a dedicated YouTube box, too. You get to push buttons, there’s LEDs, and you can take a break from other screens to look at this one for a while. [Exposed Wire] wanted to make it easier to watch the latest videos from their favorite creators, but we would argue that this is more fun, too.

The Rasberry Pi 4 inside checks every five minutes for new videos by keeping track of the creator’s total number of videos in a text file and doing a comparison. If one of the channels has a new video, then the corresponding LED lights up and the new video’s URL is linked to the button. Press the button and the Raspi opens the browser, goes the the URL, maximizes the video, turns off the LED, and updates the video count in the text file.

We like the construction job here. The 1/4″ MDF walls are connected by 3D-printed L-brackets in PETG. At first, [Exposed Wire] mounted the LEDs and buttons to a PCB, but that was really fiddly so they printed panels instead. Combined with the bracket around the screen, the finished build looks good. Check out the build montage after the break.

Regular old YouTube videos not doing it for you anymore? Try watching them at low resolution on an LED matrix.

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