Reverse Time Back To The Days Of RPN

While Texas Instruments maintains dominance in the calculator market (especially graphing calculators), there was a time when this wasn’t the case. HP famously built the first portable scientific calculator, the HP-35, although its reverse-Polish notation (RPN) might be a bit of a head-scratcher to those of us who came up in the TI world of the last three or four decades. Part of the reason TI is so dominant now is because they were the first to popularize infix notation, making the math on the calculator look much more like the math written on the page, especially when compared to the RPN used by HP calculators. But if you want to step into a time machine and see what that world was like without having to find a working HP-35, take a look at [Jeroen]’s DIY RPN calculator.

Since the calculator is going to be RPN-based, it needs to have a classic feel. For that, mechanical keyboard keys are used for the calculator buttons with a custom case to hold it all together. It uses two rows of seven-segment displays to show the current operation and the results. Programming the Arduino Nano to work as an RPN calculator involved a few tricks, though. [Jeroen] wanted a backspace button, but this disrupts the way that the Arduino handles the input and shows it on the display but it turns out there’s an Arudino library which solves some of these common problems with RPN builds like this.

One of the main reasons that RPN exists at all is that it is much easier for the processor in the calculator to understand the operations, even if it makes it a little bit harder for the human. This is because early calculators made much more overt use of a stack for performing operations in a similar way to Assembly language. Rather than learning Assembly, an RPN build like this can be a great introduction to this concept. If you want to get into the weeds of Assembly programming this is a great place to go to get started.

Making A Split-Anode Magnetron

YouTuber The Science Furry has been attempting to make a split-anode magnetron and, after earlier failures, is having another crack at it. This also failed, but they’ve learned where to focus their efforts for the future, and it sure is fun to follow along.

The magnetron theory is simple enough, and we’ve covered this many times, but the split anode arrangement differs slightly from the microwave in your kitchen. The idea is to make a heated filament the cathode, so electrons are ejected from the hot surface by thermionic emission. These are forced into a spiral path using a perpendicular magnetic field. This is a result of the Lorentz force. A simple pair of magnets external to the tube is all that is needed for that. Depending on the diameter of the cavity and the gap width, a standing wave will be emitted. The anodes must be supplied with an alternating potential for this arrangement to work. This causes the electrons to ‘bunch up’ as they cross the gaps, producing the required RF oscillation. The split electrodes also allow an inductor to be added to tune the frequency of this standing wave. That is what makes this special.

Fizz, pop, ah well.

The construction starts with pre-made end seals with the tungsten wire electrode wire passing through. In the first video, they attempted to coat the cathode with barium nitrate, but this flaked off, ruining the tube. The second attempt replaces the coiled filament with a straight wire and uses a coating paste made from Barium Carbonate mixed with nitrocellulose in a bit of acetone. When heated, the nitrocellulose and the carbonate will decompose, hopefully leaving the barium coating intact. After inserting the electrode assembly into a section of a test tube and welding on the ends, the vacuum could be pulled and sealed off. After preheating the cathode, some gasses will be emitted into the vacuum, which is then adsorbed into a nearby titanium wire getter. At least, that’s the theory.

Upon testing, this second version burned out early on for an unknown reason, so they tried again, this time with an uncoated cathode. Measuring the emission current showed only 50 uA, which is nowhere near enough, and making the filament this hot caused it to boil off and coat the tube! They decide that perhaps this is one step too many and need to experiment with the barium coating by making simpler diode tubes to get the hang of the process!

If this stuff is over your head, you need a quick history lesson about the magnetron. Next check out this teardown. Finally, we have covered DIY magnetrons before, like this excellent DIY magnetron-powered plasma sputtering device. Yes, you read that correctly.

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An excerpt from Lord Rayleigh’s published manuscript.

Estimating The Size Of A Single Molecule Of Oil Using Water

What is the size of a single molecule of oil? What may initially seem like a trick question – answerable only through the use of complicated, high-tech scientific equipment – is actually as easy to calculate as the circumference of planet Earth. Much like how [Eratosthenes] used a couple of sticks to achieve the latter feat back in about 240 BCE, the size of a molecule of olive oil was calculated in 1890 by [Lord Rayleigh], which is the formal title of [John William Strutt]. Using nothing but water and said olive oil, he managed to calculate the size of a single olive oil molecule as being 1.63 nanometers in length.

To achieve this feat, he took 0.81 mg of olive oil and put it on a known area of water. Following the assumption that the distributed oil across the water surface would form a monolayer, i.e. a layer of oil one molecule thick, he divided the volume of the oil by the covered area, which gave him the thickness of the oil layer. Consequently, this result would also be the dimension (diameter) of a single olive oil molecule.

Many years later we know now that olive oil is composed of triacylglycerols, with a diameter of 1.67 nm, or only about 2% off from the 1890 estimate. All of which reinforces once more just how much science one can do with only the most basic of tools, simply through logical deduction.

An Ode To The SAO

There are a lot of fantastic things about Hackaday Supercon, but for me personally, the highlight is always seeing the dizzying array of electronic bits and bobs that folks bring with them. If you’ve never had the chance to join us in Pasadena, it’s a bit like a hardware show-and-tell, where half the people you meet are eager to pull some homemade gadget out of their bag for an impromptu demonstration. But what’s really cool is that they’ve often made enough of said device that they can hand them out to anyone who’s interested. Put simply, it’s very easy to leave Supercon with a whole lot more stuff than when you came in with.

Most people would look at this as a benefit of attending, which of course it is. But in a way, the experience bummed me out for the first couple of years. Sure, I got to take home a literal sack of incredible hardware created by members of our community, and I’ve cherished each piece. But I never had anything to give them in return, and that didn’t quite sit right with me.

So last year I decided to be a bit more proactive and make my own Simple Add-On (SAO) in time for Supercon 2023. With a stack of these in my bag, I’d have a personalized piece of hardware to hand out that attendees could plug right into their badge and enjoy. From previous years I also knew there was something of an underground SAO market at Supercon, and that I’d find plenty of people who would be happy to swap one for their own add-ons for mine.

To say that designing, building, and distributing my first SAO was a rewarding experience would be something of an understatement. It made such an impression on me that it ended up helping to guide our brainstorming sessions for what would become the 2024 Supercon badge and the ongoing SAO Contest. Put simply, making an SAO and swapping it with other attendees adds an exciting new element to a hacker con, and you should absolutely do it.

So while you’ve still got time to get PCBs ordered, let’s take a look at some of the unique aspects of creating your own Simple Add-On.

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Broadcast TV Simulator Keeps The Nostalgia Flowing

Watch out, Gen X-ers — there’s a nostalgia overload heading your way, courtesy of this over-the-air TV simulator. And it has us feeling a little Saturday morning cartoon-ish, or maybe even a bit Afterschool Special.

[Shane C Mason]’s “FieldStation42” build centers around a period-correct color TV, and rightly so — a modern TV would be jarring here, and replacing the CRT in this irreplaceable TV would be unthinkable. Programming comes via painstakingly collected sitcoms, dramas, news broadcasts, and specials, all digitized and stored on disk and organized by the original networks the programs came from. Python running on a Raspberry Pi does the heavy lifting here, developing a schedule of programs for the week that makes sense for the time of day — morning news and talk, afternoon soaps, the usual family hour and prime time offerings, and finally [Carson] rounding out the day, because that’s all we had for late night.

As for switching between stations, rather than risk damaging the old TV, [Shane] really upped his nostalgia game and found an old antenna rotator control box. These were used to steer the directional antenna toward different transmitters back in the day, especially in fringe areas like the one he grew up in. He added a set of contacts to the knob and a Pi Pico, which talks to the main Pi and controls which “channel” is being viewed. He also added an effect of fading and noise in the video and audio between channels, simulating the antenna moving. The video below shows it in action.

For those who missed the Golden Age of TV, relax; as [Shane] correctly surmises after going through this whole project, Golden Ages only exist in your mind. Things were certainly different with 70s mass media, a fact which this build captures neatly, but that doesn’t mean they were better. Other than Saturday mornings, of course — those were objectively better in every way.

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Labelled die of the Ramtron FM24C64 FeRAM chip. (Credit: Ken Shirriff)

Inside A 1999 Ramtron Ferroelectric RAM Chip

Structure of the Ramtron FeRAM. The image is focus-stacked for clarity. (Credit: Ken Shirriff)
Structure of the Ramtron FeRAM. The image is focus-stacked for clarity. (Credit: Ken Shirriff)

Although not as prevalent as Flash memory storage, ferroelectric RAM (FeRAM) offers a range of benefits over the former, mostly in terms of endurance and durability, which makes it popular for a range of (niche) applications. Recently [Ken Shirriff] had a look inside a Ramtron FM24C64 FeRAM IC from 1999, to get an idea of how it works. The full die photo can be seen above, and it can store a total of 64 kilobit.

One way to think of FeRAM is as a very small version of magnetic core memory, with lead-zirconate-titanate (PZT) ferroelectric elements making up the individual bits. These PZT elements are used as ferroelectric capacitors, i.e. the ferroelectric material is the dielectric between the two plates, with a positive voltage storing a ‘1’, and vice-versa.

In this particular FeRAM chip, there are two capacitors per bit, which makes it easier to distinguish the polarization state and thus the stored value. Since the distinction between a 0 and a 1 is relatively minor, the sense amplifiers are required to boost the signal. After a read action, the stored value will have been destroyed, necessitating a write-after-read action to restore the value, all of which adds to the required logic to manage the FeRAM. Together with the complexity of integrating these PZT elements into the circuitry this makes these chips relatively hard to produce and scale down.

You can purchase FeRAM off-the-shelf and research is ongoing, but it looks to remain a cool niche technology barring any kind of major breakthrough. That said, the Sega Sonic the Hedgehog 3 cartridges which used an FeRAM chip for save data are probably quite indestructible due to this technology.

Bread Proofing Box For The Hungry Hacker

While normally more comfortable with a soldering iron, [LucidScience] recently took a dive into woodworking and hardware store electronics to build a DIY proofing box. It’s a clever design that doubles as furniture, with some cool problem-solving along the way. While it might not be your typical hack, repurposing seedling heat mats and working with insulation makes it a neat project for anyone who likes to tinker. Plus, the whole thing cranks out two loaves of sourdough bread each week!

The setup includes an 8 watt heat mat, typically used for aquariums or seedlings, and a temperature control box, so no complicated wiring is needed. The entire box is insulated with rigid foam, which makes it energy efficient—once the foam was installed, the heat mat only needed to turn on about a quarter of the time. To give it a more polished look, [LucidScience] hid the raw plywood edges with oak trim, and even added an adjustable vent for moisture control. Pretty slick for something built from basic materials and a few tools!

While this proofing box isn’t a groundbreaking electronics project, it shows how even simple hardware can be repurposed for entirely new applications. The combination of woodworking and basic electronics makes it an approachable project for DIYers looking to stretch their skills. Whether you’re into hacking, woodworking, or just love good bread, this build has something for everyone. [LucidScience]’s clear instructions and simple materials make this a great weekend project that can upgrade your baking game.

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