When we hear the words “pitot tube,” we tend to think more of airplanes than of air ducts, but [Franci Kopač]’s guide to pitot tubes for makers shows that they can be a remarkably versatile tool for measuring air speed, even in domestic settings.
A pitot tube is a tube which faces into an air flow, with one hole at the front of the tube, and one on the side. It’s then possible to determine the air speed by measuring the pressure difference between the side opening and the end facing into the wind. At speeds, temperatures, and altitudes that a hacker’s likely to encounter (i.e. not on an airplane), the pressure difference is pretty small, and it’s only since the advent of MEMS pressure sensors that pitot tubes became practical for amateurs.
[Franci]’s design is based on a Sensiron SDP differential pressure sensor, a 3D-printed pitot tube structure, some tubing, and the microcontroller of your choice. It’s important to position the tube well, so that it doesn’t experience airflow disturbances from other structures and faces straight into the air flow. Besides good positioning, the airspeed calculation requires you to know the air temperature and absolute pressure.
[Franci] also describes a more exotic averaging pitot tube, a fairly simple variation which measures air speed in cavities more accurately. He notes that this provides a more inexpensive way of measuring air flow in ducts than air conditioning flow sensors, while being more resilient than propeller-based solutions – he himself used pitot tubes to balance air flow in his home’s ventilation. All of the necessary CAD files and Arduino code are available on his GitHub repository.
If you’re looking for a more conventional duct flow meter, we’ve covered one before. We’ve even seen a teardown of a pitot tube sensor system from a military drone.
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Magnetohydrodynamic Motors To Spin Satellites
Almost all satellites have some kind of thrusters aboard, but they tend to use them as little as possible to conserve chemical fuel. Reaction wheels are one way to make orientation adjustments without running the thrusters, and [Zachary Tong]’s liquid metal reaction wheel greatly simplifies the conventional design.
Reaction wheels are basically flywheels. When a spacecraft spins one, conservation of angular momentum means that the wheel applies an equal and opposite torque to the spacecraft, letting the spacecraft orient itself. The liquid-metal reaction wheel uses this same principle, but uses a loop of liquid metal instead of a wheel, and uses a magnetohydrodynamic drive to propel the metal around the loop.
[Zach] built two reaction wheels using Galinstan as their liquid metal, which avoided the toxicity of a more obvious liquid metal. Unfortunately, the oxide skin that Galinstan forms did make it harder to visualize the metal’s motion. He managed to get some good video, but a clearer test was their ability to produce torque. Both iterations produced a noticeable response when hung from a string and activated, and achieved somewhat better results when mounted on a 3D-printed air bearing.
Currently, efficiency is the main limitation of [Zach]’s motors: he estimates that the second model produced 6.2 milli-newton meters of torque, but at the cost of drawing 22 watts. The liquid metal is highly conductive, so the magnetohydrodynamic drive takes high current at low voltage, which is inconvenient for a spacecraft to supply. Nevertheless, considering how hard it is to create reliable, long-lasting reaction wheels the conventional way, the greatly improved resilience of liquid-metal reaction wheels might eventually be worthwhile.
If you’re curious for a deeper look at magnetohydrodynamic drives, we’ve covered them before. We’ve also seen [Zach]’s earlier experiments with Galinstan.
Continue reading “Magnetohydrodynamic Motors To Spin Satellites”
This Extra-Large, Two-Stage Fume Extractor Really Sucks
Solder fumes are not nice on the lungs; nor are fumes from superglue, epoxy, or a whole mess of other things we often find ourselves using on the bench. Some people might be able to go the fume hood route to toss that all outside, but for the rest of us, there’s fume extractors. [Raph] has produced an extra-large, carbon-filtering, two-stage fume extractor that by all accounts really sucks — it is effective at hoovering up solder fumes up to 10″ from its inlet.

Even better, [Raph] built a battery box for an 18 V cordless tool battery, and broke out banana plugs so this doubles as a variable power supply via a cheap LM2596 based DC-DC converter. It also serves as a speed controller for the fans, which makes us wonder if you can adjust the PSU output and the fan speed independently…
Maximum suckage is achieved through careful baffle design. Check out the blog to see the trial-and-error process at work. Of course, having a 200 mm axial fan and 140 mm blower fan front and rear is going to move some air no matter what. Which is required to get air flow through the 38 mm thick activated carbon filter that should scrub all nasties quite nicely. We aren’t filtration experts but we can agree with [Raph]’s estimate that it will last “a while”.
If you want to roll your own, all of the STEP files are on GitHub, and [Raph]’s blog has an excellent step-by-step build guide. We’ve seen other hacks from [Raph] before, from his dovetailed modular breadboard to the machine that shaped his bed and automation for his camper van.
Making Sure The Basement Stays Dry With An ESP8266
The hack we have for you today is among our most favorite types of hack: a good, honest, simple, and well documented implementation that meets a real need. Our hacker [Solo Pilot] has sent in a link to their basement monitor.
The documentation is quite good. It’s terse but comprehensive with links to related information. It covers the background, requirements, hardware design, sensors, email and SMS alerts, software details, and even has some credits at the end.
Implementing this project would be a good activity for someone who has already made an LED flash and wants to take their skills to the next level by sourcing and assembling the hardware and then configuring, compiling, deploying, and testing the software for this real-world project.
To make this project work you will need to know your way around the Arduino IDE in order to build the software from the src.zip file included with the documentation (hint: extract the files from src.zip into a directory called AHT20_BMP280 before opening AHT20_BMP280.ino and make sure you add necessary boards and libraries).
One feature of the basement monitor that we would like to see is a periodic “everything’s okay” signal from the device, just so we can confirm that the reason we’re not getting an alarm about flooding in the basement is because there is no flood, and not because the battery ran dead or the WiFi went offline.
If you’ve recently started on your journey into where electronics meets software a project such as this one is a really great place to go next. And of course once you are proficient with the ESP8266 there are a thousand such projects here at Hackaday that you can cut your teeth on. Such as this clock and this fault injection device.
New Bismuth Transistor Runs 40% Faster And Uses 10% Less Power
Recently in material science news from China we hear that [Hailin Peng] and his team at Peking University just made the world’s fastest transistor and it’s not made of silicon. Before we tell you about this transistor made from bismuth here’s a whirlwind tour of the history of the transistor.
The Bipolar Junction Transistor (BJT, such as NPN and PNP) was developed soon after the point-contact transistor which was developed at Bell Labs in 1947. Then after Resistor-Transistor Logic (RTL) came Transistor-Transistor Logic (TTL) made with BJTs. The problem with TTL was too much power consumption.
Continue reading “New Bismuth Transistor Runs 40% Faster And Uses 10% Less Power”
Let The Wookie Win With This DIY Holochess Table
If you have seen Star Wars, you know what is being referenced here. Holochess appeared as a diversion built into the Millennium Falcon in the very first movie, way back in 1977. While not quite as iconic a use of simulated holograms as tiny Princess Leia begging for hope, it evidently struck a chord with [Maker Mac70], given the impressive effort he’s evidently gone through to re-create the game table from the film.
The key component of this unit is a plate from Japanese firm ASKA3D that scatters light from displays inside the table in just such a way that the diverging rays are focused at a point above its surface, creating the illusion of an image hovering in space. Or in this case, hovering at the surface of a acrylic chessboard. Granted, this technique only works from one viewing angle, and so is not a perfect recreation of a sci-fi holoprojector. But from the right angle, it looks really good, as you can see in the video below.
There are actually six SPI displays, driven by an Arduino GIGA, positioned and angled to project each character in the game. Placing two of the displays on 3D printed gantries allows them to move, allowing two creatures to battle in the center of the table. As [Maker Mac70] admits, this is quite a bit simpler than the Holochess game seen in the film, but it’s quite impressive for real world hardware.
If this all seems a little bit familiar, we covered an earlier floating display by [Maker Mac70] last year. This works on similar principles, but uses more common components which makes the technique more accessible. If chess isn’t your forte, why not a volumetric display that plays DOOM? If you’re interested in real holograms, not Sci-Fi, our own [Maya Posch] did a deep dive you may find interesting. Continue reading “Let The Wookie Win With This DIY Holochess Table”
A Constant-Fraction Discriminator For Sub-Nanosecond Timing
Detecting a signal pulse is usually basic electronics, but you start to find more complications when you need to time the signal’s arrival in the picoseconds domain. These include the time-walk effect: if your circuit compares the input with a set threshold, a stronger signal will cross the threshold faster than a weaker signal arriving at the same time, so stronger signals seem to arrive faster. A constant-fraction discriminator solves this by triggering at a constant fraction of the signal pulse, and [Michael Wiebusch] recently presented a hacker-friendly implementation of the design (open-access paper).
A constant-fraction discriminator splits the input signal into two components, inverts one component and attenuates it, and delays the other component by a predetermined amount. The sum of these components always crosses zero at a fixed fraction of the original pulse. Instead of checking for a voltage threshold, the processing circuitry detects this zero-crossing. Unfortunately, these circuits tend to require very fast (read “expensive”) operational amplifiers.
This is where [Michael]’s design shines: it uses only a few cheap integrated circuits and transistors, some resistors and capacitors, a length of coaxial line as a delay, and absolutely no op-amps. This circuit has remarkable precision, with a timing standard deviation of 60 picoseconds. The only downside is that the circuit has to be designed to work with a particular signal pulse length, but the basic design should be widely adaptable for different pulses.
[Michael] designed this circuit for a gamma-ray spectrometer, of which we’ve seen a few examples before. In a spectrometer, the discriminator would process signals from photomultiplier tubes or scintillators, such as we’ve covered before.






