When you need to make very tiny measurements, even noise in closed relays can throw you off. [Marco] was able to observe this effect and wanted to build a switch that didn’t have this problem. He found a technical paper that used rotary switches operated by stepper motors instead of relays. So he decided to try making his own version. The video below shows how it turned out.
The first part of the video talks about why relays sometimes inject a tiny voltage into a closed circuit. He then looks at costly switches that would work. However, since he needed many switches, he decided to roll his own.
The germanium point contact diode, and almost every semiconductor device using germanium, is now obsolete. There was a time when almost every television or radio would have contained one or two of them, but the world has moved on from both analogue broadcasting and discrete analogue electronics in its lower-frequency RF circuitry. [TSBrownie] is taking a look at alternatives to the venerable 1N34A point-contact diode in one of the few places a point-contact diode makes sense, the crystal radio.
In the video below the break, he settles on a slightly more plentiful Eastern European D9K as a substitute after trying a silicon rectifier (awful) and a Schottky diode (great in theory, not so good in practice). We’ve trodden this path in the past and settled on a DC bias to reduce the extra forward voltage needed for a 1N4148 silicon diode to conduct because, like him, we found a Schottky disappointing.
The ULN2003 IC is an extremely versatile part, and with the help of [Hulk]’s deep dive, you might just get some new ideas about how to use this part in your own projects.
Each of the seven outputs works like this simplified diagram.
Inside the ULN2003 you’ll find seven high-voltage and high-current NPN Darlington pairs capable of switching inductive loads. But like most such devices there are a variety of roles it can fill. The part can be used to drive relays or motors (either brushed or stepper), it can drive LED lighting, or simply act as a signal buffer. [Hulk] provides some great examples, so be sure to check it out if you’re curious.
Each of the Darlington pairs (which act as single NPN transistors) is configured as open collector, and the usual way this is used is to switch some kind of load to ground. Since the inputs can be driven directly from 5 V digital logic, this part allows something like a microcontroller to drive a high current (or high voltage, or both) device it wouldn’t normally be able to interface with.
While the circuitry to implement each of the transistor arrays isn’t particularly complex and can be easily built by hand, a part like this is a real space saver due to how it packs everything needed in a handy package. Each output can handle 500 mA, but this can be increased by connecting in parallel.
There’s a video (embedded below) which steps through everything you’d like to know about the ULN2003. Should you find yourself wanting a much, much closer look at the inner secrets of this chip, how about a gander at the decapped die?
When [Daniel Eichhorn] designed the Pendrive S3 project, he wanted to use an off-the-shelf USB enclosure but also add a button for the user to start certain actions. Drilling a hole into the enclosure would be an option, but decided a touch sensor on the top of the enclosure would be much more elegant — not to mention better at keeping dirt and moisture out. To bridge the 6.3 mm spacing between the PCB and the top of the enclosure [Daniel] used a small, 7 mm PCB-mounted spring.
The spring used to create a capacitive touch sensor. (Source: JLCPCB parts)
Although capacitive sensing works with just about anything that’s electrically conductive, it’s important to get the conductive element as close to the user’s digits as possible. Using a spring here has the advantage that when the enclosure is closed up, the lid will push down onto the spring, which will not only compress slightly, but also provide the best capacitive sensing experience when e.g. the enclosure flexes or warps over time on account of always being pressed against the inside of the lid.
While hardly world-changing, this is another neat design tip when you’re looking to turn more surfaces into touch controls. Just keep in mind that capacitive sensing is notoriously fussy and any trace and spring are also excellent antennae for stray EMI. Nobody likes random capacitive button inputs, after all.
Metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistors (MOSFETs) see common use in applications ranging from the very small (like CPU transistors) to very large (power) switching applications. Although its main advantage is its high power efficiency, MOSFETs are not ideal switches with a perfect on or off state. Understanding the three main sources of switching losses is crucial when designing with MOSFETs, with a recent All About Circuits article by [Robert Keim] providing a primer on the subject.
As it’s a primer, the subthreshold mode of MOSFET modes of operation is omitted, leaving the focus on the linear (ohmic) mode where the MOSFET’s drain-source is conducting, but with a resistance that’s determined by the gate voltage. In the saturated mode the drain-source resistance is relatively minor (though still relevant), but the turn-on time (RDS(on)) before this mode is reached is where major switching losses occur. Simply switching faster is not a solution, as driving the gate incurs its own losses, leaving the circuit designer to carefully balance the properties of the MOSFET.
For those interested in a more in-depth study of MOSFETs in e.g. power supplies, there are many articles on the subject, such as this article (PDF) from Texas Instruments.
If you need to make polyurethane belts in custom lengths, it’s not too hard. You just need to take lengths of flexible polyurethane filament, heat the ends, and join them together. In practice, it’s difficult to get it right by hand. That’s why [JBVCreative] built a 3D printed jig to make it easy.
The jig consists of two printed sliders that mount on a pair of steel rods. Each slider has a screw-down clamp on top. The clamps are used to hold down each end of the polyurethane filament to be joined. Once installed in the jig, the ends of the filament can be heated with a soldering iron or other element. and then gently pushed together. The steel rods simply enable the filament to be constrained linearly so the ends don’t shift during the joining process.
The jig doesn’t produce perfect belts. There’s still a small seam at the join that is larger than the filament’s base diameter. A second jig for trimming the belt to size could be helpful in this regard. Still, it’s a super useful technique for making custom belts. This could be super useful to anyone needing to restore old cassette decks or similar mechanical hardware.
As [Electronoobs] points out, everything has resistance. So, how hard can it be to make a high-power resistor? In the video below, he examines a commercial power resistor and how to make your own using nichrome wire.
Sure, in theory, you can use a long piece of wire, but normally, you want to minimize the amount of space occupied. This leads to winding the wire around some substrate. If you just wind the wire, though, you get an inductor. This can cause nasty voltage spikes when there is a change in current through the resistor. You can get “noninductive” wire wound resistors that use either two opposing windings or alternate the turn direction on each turn. This causes the magnetic fields to tend to cancel out, reducing the overall inductance.
Nichrome wire has more resistance per millimeter and can dissipate more power. Modern digital meters can measure the resistance of a wire if you account for the test leads. To make a substrate, [Electronoobs] got creative since he anticipated generating a lot of heat. The final product even uses water cooling.
Why do you want a big resistor? Maybe you need a dummy load, or you want to drain some batteries. If you want to recycle nichrome wire, it is much more common than you might expect.
