Reverse-Engineering Mystery TV Equipment: The Micro-Scan

[VWestlife] ended up with an obscure piece of 80s satellite TV technology, shown above. The Micro-Scan is a fairly plan metal box with a single “Tune” knob on the front. At the back is a power switch and connectors for TV Antenna, TV Set, and “MW” (probably meaning microwave). There’s no other data. What was this, and what was it for?

Satellite TV worked by having a dish receive microwave signals, but televisions could not use those signals directly. A downconverter was needed to turn the signal into something an indoor receiver box (to which the television was attached) could use, allowing the user to select a channel to feed into the TV.

At first, [VWestlife] suspected the Micro-Scan was a form of simple downconverter, but that turned out to not be the case. Testing showed that the box didn’t modify signals at all. Opening it up revealed the Micro-Scan acts as a combination switchbox and variable power supply, sending a regulated 12-16 V (depending on knob position) out the “MW” connector.

So what is it for, and what does that “Tune” knob do? When powered off, the Micro-Scan connected the TV (plugged into the “TV Set” connector) to its normal external antenna (connected to “TV Antenna”) and the TV worked like a normal television. When powered on, the TV would instead be connected to the “MW” connector, probably to a remote downconverter. In addition, the Micro-Scan supplied a voltage (the 12-16 V) on that connector, which was probably a control voltage responsible for tuning the downconverter. The resulting signal was passed unmodified to the TV.

It can be a challenge to investigate vintage equipment modern TV no longer needs, especially hardware that doesn’t fit the usual way things were done, and lacks documentation. If you’d like to see a walkthrough and some hands-on with the Micro-Scan, check out the video (embedded bel0w).

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Applying Thermal Lining To Rocket Tubes Requires A Monstrous DIY Spin-caster

[BPS.space] takes model rocketry seriously, and their rockets tend to get bigger and bigger. If there’s one thing that comes with the territory in DIY rocketry, it’s the constant need to solve new problems.

Coating the inside of a tube evenly with a thick, goopy layer before it cures isn’t easy.

One such problem is how to coat the inside of a rocket motor tube with a thermal liner, and their solution is a machine they made and called the Limb Remover 6000 on account of its ability to spin an 18 kg metal tube at up to 1,000 rpm which is certainly enough to, well, you know.

One problem is that the mixture for the thermal liner is extremely thick and goopy, and doesn’t pour very well. To get an even layer inside a tube requires spin-casting, which is a process of putting the goop inside, then spinning the tube at high speed to evenly distribute the goop before it cures. While conceptually straightforward, this particular spin-casting job has a few troublesome difficulties.

For one thing, the uncured thermal liner is so thick and flows so poorly that it can’t simply be poured in to let the spinning do all the work of spreading it out. It needs to be distributed as evenly as possible up front, and [BPS.space] achieves that with what is essentially a giant syringe that is moved the length of the tube while extruding the uncured liner while the clock is ticking. If that sounds like a cumbersome job, that’s because it is.

The first attempt ended up scrapped but helped identify a number of shortcomings. After making various improvements the second went much better and was successfully tested with a 12 second burn that left the tube not only un-melted, but cool enough to briefly touch after a few minutes. There are still improvements to be made, but overall it’s one less problem to solve.

We’re always happy to see progress from [BPS.space], especially milestones like successfully (and propulsively) landing a model rocket, and we look forward to many more.

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Checking Out A TV Pattern Generator From 1981

The picture on a TV set used to be the combined product of multiple analog systems, and since TVs had no internal diagnostics, the only way to know things were adjusted properly was to see for yourself. While many people were more or less satisfied if their TV picture was reasonably recognizable and clear, meaningful diagnostic work or calibration required specialized tools. [Thomas Scherrer] provides a close look at one such tool, the Philips PM 5519 GX Color TV Pattern Generator from 1981.

This Casio handheld TV even picked up the test pattern once the cable was disconnected, the pattern generator acting like a miniature TV station.

The Philips PM 5519 was a serious piece of professional equipment for its time, and [Thomas] walks through how the unit works and even opens it up for a peek inside, before hooking it up to both an oscilloscope and a TV in order to demonstrate the different functions.

Tools like this were important because they could provide known-good test patterns that were useful not just for troubleshooting and repair, but also for tasks like fine-tuning TV settings, or verifying the quality of broadcast signals. Because TVs were complex analog systems, these different test patterns would help troubleshoot and isolate problems by revealing what a TV did (and didn’t) have trouble reproducing.

As mentioned, televisions at the time had no self-diagnostics nor any means of producing test patterns of their own, so a way to produce known-good reference patterns was deeply important.

TV stations used to broadcast test patterns after the day’s programming was at an end, and some dedicated folks have even reproduced the hardware that generated these patterns from scratch.

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Build Your Own Pip-Boy Styled Watch

[Arnov Sharma]’s latest PIP-WATCH version is an homage to Pip-Boys, the multi-function wrist-mounted personal computers of Fallout.

We like the magnetic clasp on the back end.

[Arnov] has created a really clean wearable design with great build instructions, so anyone who wants to make their own should have an easy time. Prefer to put your own spin on it, or feel inspired by the wrist-mounted enclosure? He’s thoughtfully provided the CAD files as well.

Inside the PIP-WATCH is a neat piece of hardware, the Lilygo T-Display-S3 Long. It’s an ESP32-based board with a wide, touch-enabled, color 180 x 640 display attached. That makes it a perfect fit for a project like this, at least in theory. In practice, [Arnov] found the documentation extremely lacking which made the hardware difficult to use, but he provides code and instructions so there’s no need to go through the same hassles he did.

In addition to the Hackaday.io project page, there’s an Instructables walkthrough.

If you put your own spin on a Pip-boy (whether just a project inspired by one, or a no-detail-spared build of dizzying detail) we want to hear about it, so be sure to drop us a tip!

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Old Projects? Memorialize Them Into Functional Art

What does one do with old circuit boards and projects? Throwing them out doesn’t feel right, but storage space is at a premium for most of us. [Gregory Charvat] suggests doing what he did: combining them all into a wall-mountable panel in order to memorialize them, creating a functional digital clock in the process. As a side benefit, it frees up storage space!

Everything contributes. If it had lights, they light up. If it had a motor, it moves.

Memorializing and honoring his old hardware is a journey that involved more than just gluing components to a panel and hanging it on the wall. [Gregory] went through his old projects one by one, doing repairs where necessary and modifying as required to ensure that each unit could power up, and did something once it did. Composition-wise, earlier projects (some from childhood) are mounted near the bottom. The higher up on the panel, the more recent the project.

As mentioned, the whole panel is more than just a collage of vintage hardware — it functions as a digital clock, complete with seven-segment LED displays and a sheet metal panel festooned with salvaged controls. Behind it all, an Arduino MEGA takes care of running the show.

Creating it was clearly a nostalgic journey for [Gregory], resulting in a piece that celebrates and showcases his hardware work into something functional that seems to have a life of its own. You can get a closer look in the video embedded below the page break.

This really seems like a rewarding way to memorialize one’s old projects, and maybe even help let go of unfinished ones.

And of course, we’re also a fan of the way it frees up space. After all, many of us do not thrive in clutter and our own [Gerrit Coetzee] has some guidance and advice on controlling it.

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Robotic Canoe Puts Robot Arms To Work

Most robots get around with tracks or wheels, but [Dave] had something different in mind. Sufficiently unbothered by the prospect of mixing electronics and water, [Dave] augmented a canoe with twin, paddle-bearing robotic arms to bring to life a concept he had: the RowboBoat. The result? A canoe that can paddle itself with robotic arms, leaving the operator free to take a deep breath, sit back, and concentrate on not capsizing.

There are a couple of things we really like about this build, one of which is the tidiness of the robotic platform that non-destructively attaches to the canoe itself with custom brackets. A combination of aluminum extrusion and custom brackets, [Dave] designed it with the help of 3D scanning the canoe as a design aid. A canoe, after all, has nary a straight edge nor a right angle in sight. Being able to pull a 3D model into CAD helps immensely in such cases; we have also seen this technique used in refitting a van into an off-grid camper.

The other thing we like is the way that [Dave] drives the arms. The two PiPER robotic arms are driven with ROS, the Robot Operating System on a nearby Jetson Orin Nano SBC. The clever part is the way [Dave] observed that padding and steering a canoe has a lot in common with a differential drive, which is akin to how a tank works. And so, for propulsion, ROS simply treats the paddle-bearing arms as though they were wheels in a differential drive. The arms don’t seem to mind a little water, and the rest of the electronics are protected by a pair of firmly-crossed fingers.

The canoe steers by joystick, but being driven by ROS it could be made autonomous with a little more work. [Dave] has his configuration and code for RowboBoat up on GitHub should anyone wish to take a closer look. Watch it in action in the video, embedded below.

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Microsoft Removed WMR Headset Support? No Problem!

In late 2024 Microsoft removed support for WMR (Windows Mixed Reality), and they didn’t just cease development. As of Windows 11 version 24H2, headsets like the HP Reverb and others by Acer, Samsung, Lenovo, and Dell stopped working at all. But the good news is developer [Matthieu Bucchianeri] created the Oasis driver for Windows Mixed Reality which allows WMR headsets (and their controllers) to work again.

Oasis is available as a free download from Steam and involves a few specific setup steps in order to get working, but once the headset and controllers are unlocked and room setup is complete, the hardware will be usable again. Note that while SteamVR is handy, one’s headset and controllers are not actually tied to SteamVR. Any VR application that uses OpenVR or OpenXR should work.

It’s an extremely well-documented project, and anyone willing to read and follow a short list of directions should be off to the races in no time.

Now that there’s a way for folks to dust off their WMR hardware and get back in the game, it’s a good time to mention that if you have ever suffered from VR sickness, we’ve covered ways to help deal with and adapt to it.