Bike-Powered Shredder Makes Short Work Of 3D Printer Waste

June 16, 2026 by Donald Papp 7 Comments

[Brogan M Pratt] and his students do a lot of 3D printing, and as such found themselves producing a lot of plastic waste. Seeing an opportunity, they built a bike-powered plastic shredder that turns a little human exercise into the power needed to transform waste plastic into small bits. Shredding plastic is a necessary first step for any sort of processing, so getting this part working reliably is as important as it is educational.

Shredding is a necessary first step to processing plastic waste.

Being in the Netherlands, using a bike makes perfect sense. But it turns out there’s a lot more to making a human-powered plastic shredder than simply bolting a sprocket to a shredder, looping the bike chain over it, then climbing on and working up a sweat.

In between the bike and the shredder is a large gear reduction, a fifteen kilogram flywheel, and a heavy-duty frame to anchor everything in the face of so much mass and torque. Add some covers and safety guards and the result is a stationary bike with a hopper for waste, a bin for output, and enough rotational torque and inertia to chew through stubborn bits without stalling.

Now that the shredder works, what’s the plan for all the little plastic shreds? The goal is to turn it back into usable filament which is obviously very useful, but we’ve also seen that compression molding plastic waste can work pretty well, too.

Being an educator, [Brogan] makes it clear that a bike-powered shredder, while pretty cool, is not the only missing link in sustainability. There is currently no easy way to recycle plastic at scale. But the shredder is a critical part of demonstrating the whole process in a hands-on way, and learning why recycling plastic at scale is a genuinely difficult job.

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Ergonomic Mouse Gives Each Fingertip Its Own Saddle

June 15, 2026 by Donald Papp 4 Comments

Want to make your own ergonomic mouse but don’t know where to start? Why not try [psudoku]’s Kotinos design?

It’s a scaffold-like fingertip shell that uses the internals of an HSK Pro mouse. Each fingertip gets its own little saddle-shaped nook, and things like hand size and paddle surface can all be configured by modifying the OpenSCAD scripts.

[psudoku]’s unit looks to us as though it was maybe made using multi-jet fusion (MJF) 3D printing, but it should be perfectly printable on hobbyist printers, whether resin- or filament-based.

Comfort of the contact surfaces is left up to the end user, but if your print lacks smoothness and sanding isn’t your jam, you might consider a layer of fabric tape to create a velvet-like surface on a 3D print. That’s a trick we’ve kept in mind ever since seeing it put to good use, cushioning the hardware in a DIY steam deck case.

Is the minimalist scaffold approach to a mouse not your style, or does your hand crave something less lightweight but a little more personalized? You might want to craft a truly custom-fitted mouse, for which clay is the way.

Downloadable Xbox Thumbstick Toppers Give Gamers Accessibility Options

June 15, 2026 by Donald Papp No comments

Microsoft has a history of taking accessibility options seriously for gaming controllers, and that trend continues with downloadable thumbstick toppers for Xbox controllers. Being straight from the source, the 3D models should fit as well as can be expected with a minimum of fiddling. Just make sure you select the right controller model, because they are each subtly different.

The toppers themselves come in different styles, and there’s a design to fit a variety of needs, from a thumb cradle to ones intended for more serious adaptations — the perforated X-shaped topper, for instance, is meant to anchor a custom shape molded overtop it.

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IKEA Storage Box Just Happens To Make Great Printer Cover

June 14, 2026 by Donald Papp 7 Comments

The Snapmaker U1 3D printer is an impressive machine for the price, but [Beaver Works] found the optional factory-offered top cover a wee bit expensive for his tastes. The solution? 3D print a fixture and use a clear 45 L Samla storage box from IKEA as an effective and affordable cover for the machine.

Why a cover? A cover helps retain heat and block drafts, which can help improve print quality. A cover also keeps the machine’s insides dust and debris-free, not to mention serving as a decent barrier to curious fingers or paws.

This is a great use of an off-the-shelf product that performs at least as well as any bespoke solution. The nature of printer enclosures makes them trickier than one might think, with the size and weight of materials often driving costs up for something that seems relatively simple in concept. Getting one by 3D printing the fixtures and purchasing the bulky part locally and affordably is a great alternative. IKEA even sells the box’s lid separately, so one can buy just the box and isn’t stuck with an unused lid afterward.

Integrating off-the-shelf components into a design is often risky because much of it is outside the designer’s control. Availability can change, and a manufacturer might alter dimensions or design elements without any notice. But IKEA’s storage products are pretty well standardized and work really well for this purpose.

On the off chance you need a design tweak, [Beaver Works] has provided STEP files for the 3D-printed parts, something we always love to see.

Bambuddy Says Bye To Bambu Lab Cloud Services

June 13, 2026 by Donald Papp 52 Comments

If you have a Bambu Labs printer and aren’t keen to send your files to Bambu’s servers with each print job, then check out Bambuddy, an open-source, self-hosted, cloud-free central command that offers a local alternative for managing Bambu Labs printers. It acts as a replacement for the official cloud services, allowing you to slice, print, and monitor with full local control and zero reliance on Bambu Labs’ servers. Continue reading “Bambuddy Says Bye To Bambu Lab Cloud Services” →

Behold A 60 Hz Refresh Rate E-ink Monitor

June 13, 2026 by Donald Papp 48 Comments

E-ink displays have a number of advantages over other display types, but their refresh rate isn’t one of them. But what exactly makes them slow? According to [Wenting Zhang], it’s not an inherent limitation of the technology. It’s mainly the controller, and this limitation can be overcome to create a high-resolution 60 Hz refresh rate E-ink display, totally suitable for use as a computer monitor.

The reason E-ink displays are so slow is simple. For a long time, they existed for only one purpose: to be screens for e-readers. They had to work on devices that were generally low power, with limited interfaces and slow processors. Accommodating these factors was the primary driver behind the high latency and slow refresh rates associated with these displays.

It was actually the limited interface options rather than the slow refresh that initially led to a custom controller, because [Wenting] wanted to use an E-ink display on a laptop build. But it quickly became apparent that a custom controller could do considerably more than E-ink was known for.

Initial tests with fast refresh rates were so positive that it led to a Hackaday Supercon 2024 talk on how to make E-ink go fast, and more recently has culminated in the Modos Flow, a fully open-source, user-repairable 13.3″ portable E-ink monitor.

The development path from proof of concept to finished product has been a long one for [Wenting]. Not only did a lot of optimization and feature work need to be crafted from scratch in order to effectively balance appearance with responsiveness in different display modes, but the usual hassles of development and bad timing were also in full force. On top of it were wasteful vendor shenanigans, as well.

Check out the story in the video, embedded just below. If you’d like to buy one, there are monochrome and color versions offered through Crowd Supply.

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Adding Weight To A 3D Print With Plaster Of Paris, Cleanly

June 12, 2026 by Donald Papp 15 Comments

Sometimes it’s useful to add extra mass to a 3D print, and [Joe Fedewa] shared a simple and effective technique that uses plaster of Paris. Rather than pause the print and insert hardware or weighted bits inside, he designed the base as hollow. Not in the sense of zero infill, but in the sense of modeling a cavity into the open bottom of the object.

An open cavity in the base is perfect for filling with plaster of Paris.

After the print is complete, he mixes the dry plaster with water until it creates a thick but pourable mixture. Then the object gets turned upside-down and the cavity filled. In about an hour, it will have set up enough to be handled and worked.

Plaster of Paris has a good heft to it, but more importantly it can be made perfectly presentable thanks to being very friendly to post-processing. Any rough spots can be easily sanded and the whole bottom smoothed, so one doesn’t even need to cap it off. Completely cured plaster can be sealed with a clear coat for a more durable finish, if desired.

This basic concept has been used in other ways, such as reinforcing prints with concrete to yield parts solid enough to make tools out of. But using plaster of Paris not just to add mass, but specifically to create a presentable surface that doesn’t need covering up is a neat and highly economical adaptation of the idea.

Other methods of adding mass to a 3D print include inserting metal balls or chunky nuts, bolts, or other hardware, but this method doesn’t require pausing prints to insert things. Nor does it require sealing off or capping the print, messing with goopy epoxies or resins, or spending a lot of money — making it a good one to keep in mind in case it comes in handy someday.