The Threadless Ball Screw Never Took Off, But Don’t Write It Off

April 2, 2026 by Donald Papp 35 Comments

If you’ve never heard of the threadless ball screw, which was invented over sixty years ago, [Angus] of Maker’s Muse has a video demonstrating the whole thing, covering its history and showcasing both its strengths and weaknesses. If you like seeing mechanical assemblies in action, give it a watch.

The device — consisting of little more than a smooth rod and three angled ball bearings — is a way to turn rotational motion into linear motion. Not a single belt, thread, or complex mechanical assembly in sight. While a simple nut on a threaded rod can turn rotation into linear motion, those come with their own issues. The threadless ball screw was one effort at finding a better way.

While it lacks precision, the threadless ball screw nevertheless offers quiet and smooth motion with adjustable tension in a very DIY-friendly design.

Threadless ball screws never really took off, although they were given some consideration for use in 3D printers back in the RepRap days. Today one can purchase quality CNC components without leaving one’s web browser, but back in the early 2000s things like lead screws and ball screws were rather more specialized, less accessible, and more expensive than they are today. RepRap folks had to make their own solutions. But while the threadless ball screw is a very DIY-friendly design, it was ultimately lacking in performance.

The main problem is they’re just not precise enough for anything like CNC work. [Angus] does some back-and-forth tests with a 3D printed unit that shows serious drift after only a few minutes. Now, he knows perfectly well that his 3D-printed test unit is far from ideal, but the rapidity at which it drifted was still a surprise. Making a carriage with two threadless ball screws — one at each end — performed a lot better, but was ultimately still flawed.

It’s not all bad. There’s zero backlash. They are mechanically simple, remarkably smooth, and utterly quiet. Also, [Angus] discovered that the maximum force this setup can be made to apply is surprisingly significant, and is directly related to the tension on the bearings. That means one can trivially adjust how easily the carriage slips (or doesn’t) just by tightening or loosening the screw holding each bearing.

Sure, they’re not precise. But maybe you don’t need precision. Maybe you just need to move something back and forth in a strong & silent sort of way that can still slip gracefully (and quietly) if something goes awry, like bottoming out an axis. 3D printing makes it pretty easy to whip one up, so maybe there’s still a place for the threadless ball screw.

Continue reading “The Threadless Ball Screw Never Took Off, But Don’t Write It Off” →

Pixel Camera Puts Lo-Fi Images In The Palm Of Your Hand

April 2, 2026 by Donald Papp 1 Comment

Some things have an undeniable appeal, and lo-fi, pixelated Game Boy-camera-like images are one of them. In service of this, [Raul Zanardo] created his handheld pixel camera that goes the extra mile. It implements slick real-time pixel art filters and a number of other useful features.

A live preview with real-time filters makes capturing just the right image easy.

For hardware, [Raul] uses a LilyGo T-Display S3 Pro which is an ESP32-based development board, camera, and color touchscreen display in a handheld form factor that vaguely resembles a chunky smartphone. The only change is swapping the stock camera for an OV3660-based camera module. It’s a drop-in replacement, but necessary because some of the features and settings his software uses are not available on the stock camera.

The camera captures 240 x 176 images, but the really neat part is the real-time filter pipeline. There are many configurable choices to play with, including pixelation, dithering, edge detection, CRT scanline effect, and color palette presets. Captures are saved to a local micro SD card and there’s all kinds of handy features like a photo gallery that takes full advantage of the color touchscreen. There’s also USB Mass Storage functionality, so downloading photos is as simple as plugging in a USB cable.

The Game Boy camera’s charming lo-fi imagery has inspired many pixel-camera projects, and this one makes great use of an inexpensive handheld development board and includes truly useful features.

Do you have your own pixel-art inspired camera project? Hit up our tips line and tell us all about it!

Watch An Electro-Permanent Magnet In Action

April 1, 2026 by Donald Papp 12 Comments

Electro-permanent magnets (EPMs) are pretty nifty concepts, and if you aren’t familiar with them, they are permanent magnets with the ability to be electrically switched on or off. Unlike an electromagnet — which maintains a magnetic field only while power is applied — an EPM can remain “on” even when power is removed. Want to see one work? There’s a video embedded below that shows one off, but if you’d like to know how they work, we have you covered.

Inside are two types of magnet, one of which is permanent and the other being a semi-hard magnet paired with an electromagnetic coil. A semi-hard magnet’s flux can be changed by exposing it to a strong enough magnetic field, and that’s the key to making it work.

When both magnets work together, the EPM is “on” and acts like a permanent magnet. To turn the EPM off, the polarity of the semi-hard magnet is flipped with a short and powerful electromagnetic pulse, after which the two magnets oppose one another and more or less cancel each other out. So rather than generating a magnetic field, an EPM more accurately reconfigures it.

As intriguing as EPMs are, we haven’t really seen one properly in action until it was brought to our attention that [Dave Jones] of EEVblog tried one out last year. He received a Zubax FluxGrip EPM, which is intended for drone and robotic applications and can hold up to 25 kg. Watch [Dave] fire it up in the video (link is cued up to the 7:30 mark), it’s pretty interesting to see one of these actually work.

EPMs are not prohibitively expensive but they are not exactly cheap, either. But if a switchable magnet sounds up your alley and you can’t afford an EPM, consider an alternative “switchable” magnet design that works by momentarily canceling out a permanent magnet with a paired electromagnet. Unlike an EPM, it’s not a permanent switch but it would be enough to drop a payload.

Continue reading “Watch An Electro-Permanent Magnet In Action” →

Drawing Tablet Controls Laser In Real-Time

April 1, 2026 by Donald Papp 7 Comments

Some projects need no complicated use case to justify their development, and so it was with [Janne]’s BeamInk, which mashes a Wacom pen tablet with an xTool F1 laser engraver with the help of a little digital glue. For what purpose? So one can use a digital pen to draw with a laser in real time, of course!

Pen events from the drawing tablet get translated into a stream of G-code that controls laser state and power.

Here’s how it works: a Python script grabs events from a USB drawing tablet via evdev (the Linux kernel’s event device, which allows user programs to read raw device events), scales the tablet size to the laser’s working area, and turns pen events into a stream of laser power and movement G-code. The result? Draw on tablet, receive laser engraving.

It’s a playful project, but it also exists as a highly modular concept that can be adapted to different uses. If you’re looking at this and sensing a visit from the Good Ideas Fairy, check out the GitHub repository for more technical details plus tips for adapting it to other hardware.

We’re reminded of past projects like a laser cutter with Etch-a-Sketch controls as well as an attempt to turn pen marks into laser cuts, but something about using a drawing tablet for real-time laser control makes this stand on its own.

LED Matrix Clock Proudly Shows Its Inner Wiring

March 31, 2026 by Donald Papp 25 Comments

Some projects take great care to tuck away wire hookups, but not [Roberto Alsina]’s Reloj V2 clock. This desktop clock makes a point of exposing all components and wiring as part of its aesthetic. There are no hidden elements, everything that makes it work is open to view. Well, almost.

The exception is the four MAX7219 LED matrices whose faces are hidden behind a featureless red panel, and for good reason. As soon as the clock powers up, the LEDs shine through the thin red plastic in a clean glow that complements the rest of the clock nicely.

[Roberto]’s first version was a unit that worked similarly, but sealed everything away in a wedge-shaped enclosure that was just a little too sterile, featureless, and ugly for his liking. Hence this new version that takes the opposite approach. Clocks have long showcased their inner workings, and electronic clocks — like this circuit-sculpture design — are no exception.

The only components, besides the Raspberry Pi Zero W and the LED matrices, are the 3D-printed enclosure with a few hex screws and double-sided tape. Design files and code (including the FreeCAD project file) are available should you want to put your own spin on [Roberto]’s design.

Refill UV Printer Ink Cartridges Like It’s The Late 90s

March 31, 2026 by Donald Papp 5 Comments

The Eufymake E1 is a recently-released prosumer UV printer that can print high-resolution color images onto pretty much anything. It also uses proprietary ink cartridges (which integrate a magnetic stirrer, nice) which are far more expensive than UV ink in bulk. So [charliex] set out to figure out how to refill the ink cartridges, including the cleaning cartridge.

If one doesn’t mind a bit of fiddling, cartridges can be refilled without having to add any new holes.

UV printing in general is a bit of a maintenance hog, which has helped keep it from hobbyist use. UV ink doesn’t really like sitting idle in a machine, but the E1 automates cleaning and flushing of the print head as well as having swappable cartridges for each ink. This makes it a lot more user-friendly than UV printing has historically been.

The cartridge hardware can have a longer serviceable life than the ink inside, so it makes sense to try to refill them. There are more reasons to do this than just limiting costs. What if one wishes to print and the parent company is sold out of cartridges? What if they shut down? Refilling cartridges, and emptying waste from the cleaning cartridge, would become imperatives — lest an expensive prosumer UV printer turn into a paperweight. Thankfully software DRM control of the cartridges seems limited, at least so far.

Refilling cartridges can be carefully done with syringes combined with manual bypass of spring-loaded valve mechanisms. Emptying the cleaning cartridge can similarly be done by syringe, and it even has a hidden refill port under some plastic at its top.

[charliex] approaches all of this from a reverse-engineering perspective, indeed, he has a whole separate blog post about the software for the printer. So his solution is much more informed and elegant than, for example, just melting a new refill hole in the side of the things. It’s an interesting read, so check it out.

Our own Tom Nardi took a close, hands-on look at the E1 printer last year and came away pretty impressed with its capabilities. The cartridges are a big part of the user-friendliness of the system, but we hope there remains a viable option for manual refill for those of us who want to control costs or don’t wish to be locked in, and don’t mind violating a warranty or two in the process.

This Front Panel Makes Its Own Clean-Edged Drill Guides

March 30, 2026 by Donald Papp 8 Comments

We haven’t seen an instrument panel quite like [bluesyann]’s, which was made by curing UV resin directly onto plywood with the help of a 3D printer and a bit of software work. The result is faintly-raised linework that also makes hand drilling holes both cleaner and more accurate.

The process begins by designing the 2D layout in Inkscape, which has the advantage of letting one work in 1:1 dimensions. A 10 mm diameter circle will print as 10 mm; a nice advantage when designing for physical components. After making the layout one uses OpenSCAD to import the .svg and turn it into a 3D model that’s 0.5 mm tall. That 3D model gets loaded into the resin printer, and the goal is to put it directly onto a sheet of plywood.

A little donut shape makes a drill centering feature, and the surrounding ring keeps the edges of the hole clean.

To do that, [bluesyann] sticks the plywood directly onto the 3D printer’s build platform with double-sided tape. With the plywood taking the place of the usual build surface, the printer can cure resin directly onto its surface. Cleanup still involves washing uncured resin off the board, but it’s nothing a soak in isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush can’t take care of.

[bluesyann] has a few tips for getting the best results, and one of our favorites is a way to make drilling holes easier and cleaner. Marking the center of a drill hit with a small donut-shaped feature makes a fantastic centering guide, making hand drilling much more accurate. And adding a thick ring around the drill hole ensures clean edges with no stray wood fibers, so no post-drilling cleanup required. Don’t want the ring to stick around after drilling? Just peel it off. There’s a load of other tips too, so be sure to check it out.

A nice front panel really does make a project better, and we’ve seen many different approaches over the years. One can stick laminated artwork onto an enclosure, or one can perform toner transfer onto 3D printed surfaces by putting the design on top of the 3D printer’s build surface, and letting the heat of molten plastic do the work of transferring the toner. And if one should like the idea of a plywood front panel but balk at resin printing onto it, old-fashioned toner transfer works great on wood.