Tiny Scratch-Built Cyberdeck Is In Mint Condition

[Salim Benbouziyane] shows off his TN Deck, a tiny custom cyberdeck built into an Altoids tin. It’s a skillful build that really makes the most of the available space, and includes not only screen and keyboard but also rechargeable power supply and speaker.

The TN Deck is built around the Raspberry Pi Compute Module Zero, which is essentially the same as a Pi Zero W but in a more compact, castellated PCB form factor intended to be integrated into other designs. [Salim]’s custom PCB also handles power, sound, and puts a custom keyboard at the front running QMK, which is pretty much the best choice for custom keyboards and macropads of all kinds.

A D-pad and some gamepad buttons come in handy. The slot in the center is for the speaker.

The keyboard itself is mostly 3D printed. Each button consists of a dome tactile switch on the PCB, covered with a thin and flexible membrane printed in TPU and topped with 3D-printed keycaps. The markings are courtesy of [Salim]’s desktop IR laser marking machine, because a little trial-and-error with lasers can yield good marks on 3D prints. [Salim] says the keys don’t have much travel and the ergonomics aren’t the best, but what it lacks in comfort it makes up for in small size and economical design.

We also really liked [Salim]’s use of a printed drill guide for putting precise holes in the Altoid tin for things like an audio jack, taking the guesswork out of tool positioning.

Some cyberdecks are made to suit specific needs, and others are made for the love of the game. The TN Deck is one of the latter and [Salim]’s previous CM Deck was a bit of both. We can’t wait to see what he makes next.

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Full-Color Looks Great On 3D Printed Sliding Puzzles

[Angus] of [Maker’s Muse] shows off both a parametric, print-in-place sliding puzzle design he created, and the results of UV printing full-color designs on the same. The results look beautiful, and there was a whole lot of trial and error involved in the process.

The design includes a pop-out tile, which can be re-inserted to a finished puzzle.

Creating a good print-in-place sliding puzzle depends a lot on tolerances. Today’s 3D printers are much more capable in this regard than they were ten or so years ago, but getting the right feel to the pieces was still a long learning process. It’s not at all easy to get all the different characteristics in the right balance. On one hand, if the pieces are too tight they won’t slide easily. But if they are too loose, the puzzle can bind because the pieces have too much play. It may also flex enough to pop apart. And of course, the shape of the pieces and their mating surfaces are constrained to angles and shapes that 3D print reliably. [Angus] persevered and succeeded, and shows off everything from cute 3 x 3 units to a massive scaled-up 11 x 11 puzzle, printed on his Prusa XL.

Getting the color onto the print is the work of a desktop UV ink printer, the same model our own Tom Nardi had a hands-on look at last year. [Angus] shows how printing a single color image onto the puzzle is pretty easy and looks great, but what’s even better is a textured relief image with some real tactile depth to it. Expect a lot more work to do for that, because thick layers of ink gum the puzzle up with overspray unless one avoids printing over the gaps in the tiles.

Watch both the puzzles and the color printing in action in his video, embedded just below.

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Tips To Model Your Next CNC Cabinet In CAD Before Buying Anything

[Clough42] has started a new CNC control cabinet build, and uses it as an opportunity to demonstrate why he models the whole thing out in CAD before ordering parts or physically building anything. One may wonder why to bother, and the simple answer is to ensure there are no surprises or waste. [Clough42] has built plenty of these cabinets and there’s always something that isn’t as expected.

Modeling out an entire cabinet sounds like it should be easy, because today one can obtain 3D models for components from industrial suppliers with ease. In practice, it’s a process fraught with little gotchas.

For example, a STEP file of a component can lack convenient geometric snap points. An enclosure will be a single entity, without a separate door (and certainly not articulated at the hinge). [Clough42] shows ways to deal with all of these, and more, in Fusion 360. With a few simple techniques laying out an entire cabinet in CAD can be easy.

Planning before buying or building is a form of prototyping, and prototyping helps surface problems so they can be avoided before they become costly. This concept extents to design work as well; model everything out to avoid simple goofs like a screwdriver handle trapped by its surrounding bits.

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Coffee Maker Steam Wand Gets A Safe Outlet

Sometimes a hacker has a specific sort of problem, and uses the tools they have to solve it in a way that just might be helpful to someone else. That’s the case with [Matvey Kukuy]’s Coffee Steam Dryer (V2), which performs the very specific job of safely swallowing up expelled steam and water from an espresso machine’s steam wand.

Steam purges into the top inlet and passes through expansion chambers, dragging cool air along with it, until it exits safely.

Steam wands are used to froth milk into a velvety texture, and some machines require purging the wand before using it for best results. Where does the resulting jet of steam and spatter of superhot water droplets go? Not the machine’s problem. That’s for the user to deal with, and [Matvey] decided to address it by designing and 3D printing a tool.

The pipe-like object works by having steam jet into the open top (printed in ABS or ASA for heat resistance) where the device redirects the hot gas and captures any expelled water in the process. The steam flows through expansion chambers, dragging cool air along with it in the process, until it ultimately gets redirected away from the user.

By the time steam exits the outlet, some has condensed and the remainder has cooled and slowed down enough to not be a worry.

It’s the second version of the device, and we like how it has no moving parts and can be disassembled for cleaning and drying.

Coffee is an area that is rich with hacker activity, from 3D-printed micro-brew machines to completely DIY roasters but tools like this show how improving the coffee workflow can also be beneficial.

Big Infinity Mirror Clock Invites You To Gaze Deeply

[Andy Huot] has a fantastic-looking infinity mirror digital clock that really raises the bar. It uses high quality components, smart use of RGB LED animations, and a clever “stacked diffuser” vertical design to the 7-segment display elements that really enhances the infinity mirror effect. It needs to be seen in action, so check it out.

The end result is expressly portal-like, with the smooth animations of the LEDs really playing into the effect. The size helps, too. It’s 24 inches in diameter, giving it considerable presence.

The stacked diffuser design for each display element really enhances the effect.

A basic infinity mirror design consists of lit elements sandwiched between a reflective back surface and a partially-reflective, partially-transmissive top cover. That same basic principle is used here, but with great care given to ensure nothing so much as a fingerprint spoils the illusion. For example, the top cover is a disk of acrylic with a 90% reflective film affixed to the inside surface. That’s easy enough to DIY with some car tint, but [Andy] found that for the very best results it was worth having high-quality film professionally applied.

We like the use of 3D-printed custom jigs for soldering the segments of RGB LED strips, and holding the pre-measured wires in place with some putty is a great way to keep them in place while working. In case you’re wondering, the mirrored acrylic making up the back wall has holes in it for mounting each segment’s LED strip in a holder, and running the wires to the rear.

The video (embedded below) documents every step of the assembly, and it’s a serious build. While the design files for the 3D-printed parts are not free, there’s certainly enough detail for an enterprising hacker to replicate the design in their own way.

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The Heavy Disco-Ball Satellite Designed To Do… Nothing

Launched in 1976, LAGEOS-1 (LAser GEOdynamic Satellite) is unusual in that it contains no instrumentation, no electronics, no power supply, and no means of propulsion. It’s spherical, weighs just under 407 kg, and looks a bit like a disco ball. It may not be accurate to say it does nothing, but unlike most satellites its role is entirely passive. It’s also one of the oldest scientific satellites still in service.

The lens-like objects covering the surface of LAGEOS-1 are corner cube retroreflectors, which have the nifty effect of always reflecting incident light right back towards its source.

Ground stations fire short laser pulses at it and measure the time it takes for the light to return, a form of time-of-flight ranging. Since LAGEOS-1’s orbit is highly stable, it provides a reliable reference point for measuring even tiny changes in the Earth itself. The size, shape, rotation, and more of our planet can be measured as a result. LAGEOS data (LAGEOS-2 was launched in 1992) has also been used in tests of general relativity.

Its orbit and construction were deliberately chosen so that atmospheric drag and other disturbances would be minimal. The simple, maintenance-free design combined with an extraordinarily stable orbit means LAGEOS is expected to circle our world for millions of years to come.

LAGEOS-1 also contains a message to the future in the form of two identical plaques prepared by Dr. Carl Sagan just in case there’s anyone around to find it some day. Check out the short 1975 video from NASA, embedded just below.

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How To Fold Curved Lines In Metal Without Fancy Tools

Folding a sheet of metal in a straight line is one thing, but how does one fold multiple curved lines into a sheet of aluminum without fancy machines? [John] demonstrates how to do exactly that with little more than hand tools and a fair bit of patience. The secret is drilling a lot of small holes along each fold line.

Complex shapes are possible with planning, hand tools, and patience.

First, a bit of background. [John] wanted to fabricate a curved piece of aluminum as cover that would match the sleek aerodynamic lines of a Belly Tank Lakester. The trick is that there isn’t a single straight line to be found, and the fold lines are all curves. How can one do such folding with only hand tools?

[John] found that fabrication was possible by drilling small holes all along each fold line, then carefully bending as needed. The line of holes weakens the metal, acting like a score line, and allow the required curves to be made cleanly. There’s some finishing work and straightening involved, but the hard part of making the actual folds is taken care of.

One method that didn’t work was cutting a shallow groove in the metal to create something like a pre-scored fold line. [John] tried this and found that while the metal does indeed fold along the weakened line, the aluminum tends to crack in the process. When making a line of holes instead, the metal between each hole bends nicely.

This technique does mean the finished part ends up with small perforations along each fold, but the part is mounted on the bottom of the car and [John] says that he’d have to look quite closely to notice. A little polishing goes a long way, too.

We have covered many ways to bend sheet metal and while machinery exists to do it exceedingly well, great results can be had with little more than simple tools and some patience.

Watch [John] go through the process in the video embedded below, or skip to 7:55 if you just want to see the end result.

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