Better 3D-Printed Bridges Are Possible, With The Right Settings

The header image above shows a completely unsupported 3D-printed bridge, believe it or not. You’re looking at the bottom of the print. [Make Wonderful Things] wondered whether unsightly unsupported bridges could be improved, and has been busy nailing down remarkably high-quality results by exhaustive testing of different settings.

It all started when they thought that unsupported bridges looked a lot as though they were made from ropes stretched between two points. Unlike normal layers, these stretched extrusions didn’t adhere to their neighbors. They are too far apart from one another, and there’s no “squish” to them. But could this be overcome?

His experiments centered mainly around bridge printing speed, temperature, and bridge flow. That last setting affects how much the extrusion from the hot end is adjusted when printing a bridge. He accidentally increased it past 1.0 and thought the results were interesting enough to follow up on; it seemed that a higher flow rate when printing a bridge gave the nudge that was needed to get better inter-line adhesion. What followed was a lot of testing, finally settling on something that provided markedly better results than the stock slicer settings. Markedly better on his test pieces, anyway.

BF = Bridge flow, BS = Bridge printing speed (in mm/sec)

The best results seem to come from tweaking the Bridge Flow rate high enough that extrusions attach to their neighbors, printing slowly (he used 10 mm/sec), and ensuring the bridged area is as consistent as possible. There are still open questions, like some residual sagging at corners he hasn’t been able to eliminate, but the results otherwise look great. And it doesn’t even require laying one’s printer on its side!

All the latest is on the project page where you can download his test models, so if you’re of a mind to give it a try be sure to check it out and share your results. Watch a short video demonstrating everything, embedded just under the page break.

Thanks to [Hari] for the tip!

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X-wing Aircraft Are Trickier Than They Look

The iconic X-wing ship design from Star Wars is something many a hobbyist have tried to recreate, and not always with success. While [German engineer] succeeded in re-imagining an FPV quadcopter as an X-wing fighter, the process also highlighted why there have been more failures than successes when it comes to DIY X-wing aircraft.

For one thing, the X-wing shape is not particularly aerodynamic. It doesn’t make a very good airplane. Quadcopters on the other hand rely entirely on precise motor control to defy gravity in a controlled way. It occurred to [German engineer] that if one tilts their head just so, an X-wing fighter bears a passing resemblance to a rocket-style quadcopter layout, so he set out to CAD up a workable design.

When flying at speed, the aircraft goes nearly horizontal and the resemblance to an X-wing fighter is complete.

One idea that seemed ideal but ultimately didn’t work was using four EDF (electric ducted fan) motors mounted in the same locations as the four cylindrical engines on an X-wing. Motors large enough to fly simply wouldn’t fit without ruining the whole look. A workable alternative ended up being the four props and brushless motors mounted on the ends of the wings, like you see here.

The unit still needed a lot of fine tuning to get to a properly workable state, but it got there. It takes off and lands vertically, like a classical quadcopter, but when flying at speed it levels out almost completely and looks just like an X-wing as it screams by. It’s in sharp contrast to the slow, methodical movements of this Imperial Shuttle drone.

There are also a couple design elements in [German engineer]’s build we thought were notable. The spring-loaded battery door (all 3D-printed, including the spring) looks handy and keeps the lines of the aircraft clean. And since it’s intended to be flown as an FPV (first person view) aircraft, the tilting camera mount in the nose swings the camera 90 degrees during takeoff and landing to make things a little easier on the pilot.

3D models for the frame (along with a parts list) are up for anyone who wants to give it a shot. Check it out in the video, embedded below.

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Dual-Arm Mobile Bot Built On IKEA Cart Costs Hundreds, Not Thousands

There are many incredible open-source robotic arm projects out there, but there’s a dearth of affordable, stable, and mobile robotic platforms with arms. That’s where XLeRobot comes in. It builds on the fantastic LeRobot framework to make a unit that can be trained for autonomous tasks via machine learning, as well as operated remotely.

XLeRobot, designed by [Vector Wang], has a pretty clever design that makes optimal use of easy to obtain parts. In addition to the mostly 3D-printed hardware, it uses an IKEA cart with stacked bin-like shelves as its main frame.

The top bin holds dual arms and a central stalk with a “head”. There’s still room left in that top bin, a handy feature that gives the robot a place to stow or carry objects.

The bottom of the cart gets the three-wheeled motion unit. Three omnidirectional wheels provide a stable base while also allowing the robot to propel itself in any direction and turn on a dime. The motion unit bolts to the bottom, but because the IKEA cart’s shelf bottoms are a metal mesh, no drilling is required.

It’s all very tidy, and results in a mobile robotics platform that is cheap enough for most hobbyists to afford, while being big enough to navigate indoor environments and do useful tasks.

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3D Printering: Liquid-Filled Filament Was Not On Our Bingo Card

[Prusa] have a number of announcements, and one of the more unusual ones is that liquid printing is coming to the Prusa XL. Specifically, printing in real, heat-resistant silicone (not a silicone-like plastic) is made possible thanks to special filament and a special toolhead. It’s the result of a partnership with Filament2, and the same process could even be used to print with other liquids, including chocolate.

Look closely and you will see the detail in the nozzle, which mixes the two-part formula.

The process is as unusual as it is clever. The silicone is a two-part formula, but there is no reservoir or pump involved. Instead, there are two filaments, A and B. When mixed, they cure into solid silicone.

What is unusual is that these filaments have a liquid core. Upon entering the extruder, the outer sheath is cut away, and the inner liquid feeds into a mini mixing nozzle. The nozzle deposits the mixed silicone onto the print, where it cures. It isn’t clear from the demo where the stripped outer casing goes, but we assume it must get discarded or is possibly stowed temporarily until it can be removed.

Liquid-core filament is something we certainly didn’t have on our bingo card, but we can see how it makes sense. A filament format means the material can be handled, fed, and deposited precisely, benefiting from all of the usual things a filament-based printer is good at doing.

What’s also interesting is that the liquid toolhead can co-exist with other toolheads on the XL; in fact, they make a point of being able to extrude silicone as well as the usual thermoplastics into the same print. That’s certainly a trick no one else has been able to pull off.

There are a few other announcements as well, including a larger version of their Core One printer and an open-source smart spool standard called OpenPrintTag, a reusable and reprogrammable NFC insert for filament spools that gives you all of the convenience of automating color and material reading without the subtle (or overt) vendor lock-in that comes with it.

Watch a demo of the new silicone extruder in the video, embedded just under the page break. The new toolhead will be 1,009 USD when it launches in early 2026.

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Does 3D-Printed Foam Make Good Custom Tires?

Wouldn’t it be nice to 3D print an entire custom tire for small robots? It sure would, so [Angus] of [Maker’s Muse] decided to investigate whether nifty new filaments like expanding TPU offer anything new in this area. He did more than just print out a variety of smooth tires; he tested each with a motorized platform attached to a load cell, driving on a dusty sheet of MDF to simulate the average shop floor, or ant weight combat robot arena.

Why bother making your own wheels? As [Angus] points out, when one is designing their own robots from scratch, it’s actually quite difficult to find something off the shelf that is just the right size. And even if one does find a wheel that is just right, there’s still the matter of fitting it to the shaft. Things would be so much easier if one could simply 3D print both wheel and tire in a material that performs well.

Like TPU, but squishier.

Here’s what he found: Siraya Tech’s TPU air filament (about 70A on the Shore hardness scale) performed the best. This is TPU plus a heat-activated additive that foams up during extrusion, resulting in a flexible print that looks and feels more like foam than usual TPU. It makes a promising tire that performs as well as it looks. Another expanding filament, PEBA air (also from Siraya Tech) didn’t look or perform as well, but was roughly in the same ballpark.

Both performed better than the classic DIY options of 3D-printed plain TPU, or laser-cut EVA foam. It’s certainly a lot less work than casting custom tires.

What about adding a tread pattern? [Angus] gave it a try. Perhaps unsurprisingly, a knobby tire has worse traction compared to a smooth tire on smooth MDF. But sometimes treads are appropriate, and as [Angus] points out, if one is 3D printing tires then adding treads comes at essentially zero cost. That’s a powerful ability.

Even if you are not interested in custom wheels, that foaming TPU filament looks pretty nifty. See for yourself in the video, embedded just below. If you find yourself finding a good use for it, be sure to drop us a tip!

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Learn What A Gaussian Splat Is, Then Make One

Gaussian Splats is a term you have likely come across, probably in relation to 3D scenery. But what are they, exactly? This blog post explains precisely that in no time at all, complete with great interactive examples and highlights of their strengths and relative weaknesses.

Gaussian splats excel at making colorful, organic subject matter look great.

Gaussian splats are a lot like point clouds, except the points are each differently-shaped “splats” of color, arranged in such a way that the resulting 3D scene looks fantastic — photorealistic, even — from any angle.

All of the real work is in the initial setup of the splats into the scene. Once that work is done, viewing is the easy part. Not only are the resulting file sizes of the scenes small, but rendering is computationally simple.

There are a few pros and cons to gaussian splats compared to 3D meshes, but in general they look stunning for any kind of colorful, organic scene. So how does one go about making or using them?

That’s where the second half of the post comes in handy. It turns out that making your own gaussian splats is simply a matter of combining high-quality photos with the right software. In that sense, it has a lot in common with photogrammetry.

Even early on, gaussian splats were notable for their high realism. And since this space has more than its share of lateral-thinkers, the novel concept of splats being neither pixels nor voxels has led some enterprising folks to try to apply the concept to 3D printing.

Nanochat Lets You Build Your Own Hackable LLM

Few people know LLMs (Large Language Models) as thoroughly as [Andrej Karpathy], and luckily for us all he expresses that in useful open-source projects. His latest is nanochat, which he bills as a way to create “the best ChatGPT $100 can buy”.

What is it, exactly? nanochat in a minimal and hackable software project — encapsulated in a single speedrun.sh script — for creating a simple ChatGPT clone from scratch, including web interface. The codebase is about 8,000 lines of clean, readable code with minimal dependencies, making every single part of the process accessible to be tampered with.

An accessible, end-to-end codebase for creating a simple ChatGPT clone makes every part of the process hackable.

The $100 is the cost of doing the computational grunt work of creating the model, which takes about 4 hours on a single NVIDIA 8XH100 GPU node. The result is a 1.9 billion parameter micro-model, trained on some 38 billion tokens from an open dataset. This model is, as [Andrej] describes in his announcement on X, a “little ChatGPT clone you can sort of talk to, and which can write stories/poems, answer simple questions.” A walk-through of what that whole process looks like makes it as easy as possible to get started.

Unsurprisingly, a mere $100 doesn’t create a meaningful competitor to modern commercial offerings. However, significant improvements can be had by scaling up the process. A $1,000 version (detailed here) is far more coherent and capable; able to solve simple math or coding problems and take multiple-choice tests.

[Andrej Karpathy]’s work lends itself well to modification and experimentation, and we’re sure this tool will be no exception. His past work includes a method of training a GPT-2 LLM using only pure C code, and years ago we saw his work on a character-based Recurrent Neural Network (mis)used to generate baroque music by cleverly representing MIDI events as text.