Hackaday Podcast Episode 316: Soft Robots, Linux The Hard Way, Cellphones Into SBCs, And The Circuit Graver

Join Hackaday Editors Elliot Williams and Tom Nardi as they talk about the best stories and hacks of the week. This episode starts off with a discussion of the Vintage Computer Festival East and Philadelphia Maker Faire — two incredible events that just so happened to be scheduled for the same weekend. From there the discussion moves on to the latest developments in DIY soft robotics, the challenge of running Linux on 8-pin ICs, hardware mods to improve WiFi reception on cheap ESP32 development boards, and what’s keeping old smartphones from being reused as general purpose computers.

You’ll also hear about Command and Conquer: Red Alert running on the Pi Pico 2, highly suspect USB-C splitters, and producing professional looking PCBs at home with a fiber laser. Stick around to the end to hear about the current state of non-Google web browsers, and a unique new machine that can engrave circuit boards with remarkable accuracy.

Check out the links below if you want to follow along, and as always, tell us what you think about this episode in the comments!

As always, the Hackaday Podcast is available as a DRM-free MP3 download.

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Clever Engineering Leaves Appliance Useless

Around these parts, we generally celebrate clever hacks that let you do more with less. So if somebody wrote in to tell us how they used multiplexing to drive the front panel of their latest gadget with fewer pins on the microcontroller than would normally be required, we’d be all over it. But what if that same hack ended up leading to a common failure in a piece of consumer hardware?

As [Jim] recently found out, that’s precisely what seems to be ailing the Meaco Arete dehumidifier. When his stopped working, some Internet searching uncovered the cause of the failure: if a segment in the cheap LED display dies and shorts out, the multiplexing scheme used to interface with the front panel essentially reads that as a stuck button and causes the microcontroller to lock up. He passed the info along to us as a cautionary tale of how over-optimization can come with a hidden cost down the line.

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In 2025, The Philly Maker Faire Finds Its Groove

The first Philadelphia Maker Faire was extremely impressive, and seemed poised to be one of the premier maker events on the East Coast. Unfortunately, it had the misfortune of happening just a few months before COVID-19 made such events impossible. Robbed of all its momentum, the event tried out different venues after the shadow of the pandemic was gone, but struggled to meet the high bar set by that inaugural outing.

But after attending the the 2025 Philadelphia Maker Faire this past weekend, I can confidently say the organizers have moved the needle forward. This year marks the second time the event has been held at the Cherry Street Pier, a mixed-use public space with an artistic bent that not only lends itself perfectly to the spirit of Maker Faire but offers room for expansion in the future. The pier was packed with fascinating exhibits and excited attendees, and when the dust settled, everyone I spoke to was thrilled with how the day went and felt extremely positive about the future of the Faire.

Providing coverage of an event like this is always difficult, as there’s simply no way I could adequately describe everything there was to see and do. The following represents just a few of the projects that caught my eye; to see all that the Philadelphia Maker Faire has to offer, I’d strongly suggest you make the trip out in 2026.

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LayerLapse Simplifies 3D Printer Time-lapse Shots

We know you’ve seen them: the time-lapses that show a 3D print coming together layer-by-layer without the extruder taking up half the frame. It takes a little extra work compared to just pointing a camera at the build plate, but it’s worth it to see your prints materialize like magic.

Usually these are done with a plugin for OctoPrint, but with all due respect to that phenomenal project, it’s a lot to get set up if you just want to take some pretty pictures. Which is why [Whopper Printing] put together the LayerLapse. This small PCB is designed to trigger your DSLR or mirrorless camera once its remotely-mounted hall effect sensor detects the presence of a magnet.

The remote hall effect sensor.

The idea is that you just need to stick a small magnet to your extruder, add a bit of extra G-code that will park it over the sensor at the end of each layer, and you’re good to go. There’s even a spare GPIO pin broken out should you want to trigger something else on each layer of your print. Admittedly we can’t think of anything else right now that would make sense, other than some other type of camera, but we’re sure some creative folks out there could put this feature to use.

Currently, [Whopper Printing] is selling the LayerLapse as a finished product, though it does sound like a kit version is in the works. There’s also instructions for building a DIY version of the hardware using your microcontroller of choice. Whether you buy or build the hardware, the firmware is available under the MIT license for your tinkering pleasure.

Being hardware hackers, we appreciate the stand-alone nature of this solution. But if you’re already controlling your printer through OctoPrint, you’re probably better off just setting up one of the available time-lapse plugins.

Printed Robotic Arm Pumps Up With Brushless Motors

[JesseDarr] recently wrote in to tell us about their dynamic Arm for Robitc Mischief (dARM), a mostly 3D printed six degrees of freedom (6DOF) robotic arm that’s designed to be stronger and more capable than what we’ve seen so far from the DIY community.

The secret? Rather than using servos, dARM uses brushless DC (BLDC) motors paired with ODrive S1 controllers. He credits [James Bruton] and [Skyentific] (two names which regular Hackaday readers are likely familiar with) for introducing him to not only the ODrive controllers, but the robotics applications for BLDCs in the first place.

dARM uses eight ODrive controllers on a CAN bus, which ultimately connect up to a Raspberry Pi 4B with a RS485 CAN Hat. The controllers are connected to each other in a daisy chain using basic twisted pair wire, which simplifies the construction and maintenance of the modular arm.

As for the motors themselves, the arm uses three different types depending on where they are located, with three Eaglepower 8308 units for primary actuators, a pair of GB36-2 motors in the forearm, and finally a GM5208-24 for the gripper. Together, [JesseDarr] says the motors and gearboxes are strong enough to lift a 5 pound (2.2 kilogram) payload when extended in a horizontal position.

The project’s documentation includes assembly instructions for the printed parts, a complete Bill of Materials, and guidance on how to get the software environment setup on the Raspberry Pi. It’s not exactly a step-by-step manual, but it looks like there’s more than enough information here for anyone who’s serious about building a dARM for themselves.

If you’d like to start off by putting together something a bit easier, we’ve seen considerably less intimidating robotic arms that you might be interested in.

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Atomic Clock Trades Receiver For An ESP8266

The advantage of a radio-controlled clock that receives the time signal from WWVB is that you never have to set it again. Whether it’s a little digital job on your desk, or some big analog wall clock that’s hard to access, they’ll all adjust themselves as necessary to keep perfect time. But what if the receiver conks out on you?

Well, you’d still have a clock. But you’d have to set it manually like some kind of Neanderthal. That wasn’t acceptable to [jim11662418], so after he yanked the misbehaving WWVB receiver from his clock, he decided to replace it with an ESP8266 that could connect to the Internet and get the current time via Network Time Protocol (NTP).

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Fiber Laser Gives DIY PCBs A Professional Finish

While low-cost professional PCB fabrication has largely supplanted making circuit boards at home, there’s still something to be said for being able to go from design to prototype in an afternoon. Luckily we aren’t limited to the old toner transfer trick for DIY boards these days, as CNC routers and powerful lasers can be used to etch boards quickly and accurately.

But there’s still a problem — those methods leave you with a board that has exposed traces. That might work in a pinch for a one-off, but such boards are prone to shorts, and frankly just don’t look very good. Which is why [Mikey Sklar] has been experimenting with applying both a soldermask and silkscreen to his homemade boards.

The process he describes starts after the board has already been etched. First he rolls on the soldermask, and then sandwiches the board between layers of transparency film and clear acrylic before curing it under a UV light. After two coats of the soldermask, the board goes into a fiber laser and the silkscreen and mask layers are loaded into the software and the machine is set to a relatively low power (here, 40%). The trick is that the mask layer is set to run four times versus the single run of the silkscreen, which ensures that the copper is fully exposed.

Since the board doesn’t need to be moved between operations, you don’t have to worry about the registration being off. The end result really does look quite nice, with the silkscreen especially popping visually a lot more than we would have assumed.

We’ve previously covered how [Mikey] uses his CNC router and fiber laser to cut out and etch the boards, so this latest installment brings the whole thing full circle. The equipment you’ll need to follow along at home isn’t cheap, but we can’t argue with the final results.

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