Avoid Missed Connections With The Connectorbook’s Web Tool

Connectors are wonderful and terrible things. Wonderful, in that splicing wires every time you need to disassemble something is really, really annoying. Terrible in that it can be just such an incredible pain-in-the-assets to find the right one if you’re stuck with just a male or a female for some unfortunate reason. We’ve all been there, and all spent time growing increasingly frustrated pouring over the DigiKey catalog (or its local equivalent) trying to figure out what the heck we were dealing with. That’s why [Davide Andrea]’s The Connectorbook exists–and even better, the free web service they call Identiconn.

The tool isn’t super new–the Wayback Machine has snapshots of it dating back to 2021–but it’s still very much worth highlighting. There’s a “quick pick” option that lets you narrow it down with photos, or if you want to get specific there are dozens of filters to try and help you find your exact part. You can filter based on everything from the pitch and geometry of the connectors, to how it terminates, attachments, latches, et cetera. While we can’t guarantee the database is fully exhaustive, it looks pretty darn big, and using it is going to be a lot less exhausting than pouring through catalogs hoping that particular vendor or manufacturer lists the matching part.

Some might argue that this database is not a hack, but it’s certainly going to enable a certain amount of hacking. That’s why we’re grateful to [Alex] for the tip! If you’ve got a know tool you think we all should know about that hasn’t been shared yet, please let us know.

These are test stampings-- the final product looks a lot better.

2025 Component Abuse Challenge: Nail Your Next Decal

One of the hardest parts of a project — assuming it makes it that far — is finishing it up in an aesthetically pleasing manner. As they say, the devil is in the details, wearing Prada. Apparently the devil also has an excellent manicure, because [Tamas Feher] has come up with a way to introduce incredibly detailed decals (down to 0.1 mm) in cheap, repeatable fashion, using a technique borrowed from the local nail salon. 

The end result can look quite a bit better than the test piece above.

For those who aren’t in to nail art (which, statistically speaking, is likely to be most of you) there is a common “stamping” technique for putting details onto human fingernails. Nail polish is first applied to voids on a stencil-like plate, then picked up by a smooth silicone stamper, which is then pressed against the nail, reproducing the image that was on the stencil. If that’s clear as mud, there’s a quick demo video embedded bellow.

There’s a common industrial technique that works the same way, which is actually where [Tamas] got the idea. For nail salons and at-home use, there are a huge variety of these stencils commercially available for nail art, but that doesn’t mean you’re likely to find what you want for your project’s front panel.

[Tamas] points out that by using a resin printer to produce the stencil plate, any arbitrary text or symbol can be used. Your logo, labels, whatever. By printing flat to the build plate, you can take advantage of the full resolution of the resin printer — even an older 2 K model would more than suffice here, while higher res like the new 16 K models become the definition of overkill. The prints go quick, as they don’t need any structural thickness: just enough to hold together coming off of the plate, plus enough extra to hold your designs at a 0.15 mm inset. That doesn’t seem very thick, but remember that this only has to hold enough nail polish to be picked up by the stamper.

[Tamas] cautions you have to work fast, as the thin layer of nail polish picked up by the stamper can dry in seconds. You’ll want plenty of nail polish remover (or plain acetone) on hand to clean the stamper once you’ve finished, as well as your stencil. [Tamas] cautions you’ll want to clean it immediately if you ever want to use it again. Good to know.

While this is going outside of the nail art kit’s comfort zone, it might not quite be abuse. It is however a very useful technique to add to our ever-growing quiver of how to make front panels. Besides, we don’t specify you have to literally make components suffer; we just want to see what wild and wonderful substitutions and improvisations you all come up with.

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POV Globe Takes To The Skies

LED billboards are cyberpunk-dystopian enough for most, but it can get worse. For example, this project by [Concept Crafted Creations] that takes the whole concept and takes it airborn (literally) in the form of a flying POV sphere called “Zippy”.

We love persistence-of-vision (POV) displays, and have featured plenty before, from the very complicated to the fairly simple. The idea is simple: take one or more rings of LEDs and spin them rapidly enough that the persistence-of-vision effect creates a solid image in your visual field. We covered the basics years back. “Zippy” has one ring of addressable LEDs that surrounds the thing that makes it unique: the quadcopter at its core. None of those other projects could fly, after all.

You might imagine a big, spinning ring is going to have a lot of torque to cancel out, and that is true — about 2.3 kgf — and it led to a lot of prototypes crashing early on. After trying to use flaps to direct the downwash of the quadcopter rotors to counter the spin, [Concept Crafted Creations] eventually added two extra props for yaw control, and that seemed to do the trick. We say “quadcopter” because that’s the configuration, but Zippy ended up heavy and needs eight lift motors to fly. PVC pipe and PLA aren’t the lightest build materials, after all. That’s ten props, total, plus another outrunner to spin the POV ring. All those motors, plus the current draw of the LEDs means the flight time might not impress — but Zippy sure does, at last as long as the batteries hold out.

There’s something eye-catching about POV displays, and seeing this one drifting upwards like Kang and Kodos decided to steal the Los Vegas Sphere is even more arresting. That made the crash at the end of the video sad to see, but [Concept Crafted Creations] hasn’t ruled out rebuilding it if his viewers show enough interest. So if you like what you see, head over to YouTube and leave an encouraging comment for him to try, try again. Continue reading “POV Globe Takes To The Skies”

Ore Formation: Return Of The Revenge Of The Fluids

In the last edition of our ongoing series on how planets get ore– those wonderful rocks rich in industrial minerals worth mining– we started talking about hydrothermal fluid deposits. Hydrothermal fluid is the very hot, very salty, very corrosive water that sweats out of magma as it cools underground and under pressure.

We learned that if the fluid stays in the magma chamber and encourages the growth of large crystals there, we call that a pegmatite deposit. If it escapes following cracks in the surface rock, it creates the characteristic veins of an orogenic deposit. What if the fluid gets out of the magma chamber, but doesn’t find any cracks?

Perhaps the surrounding rock is slightly permeable to water, and the hydrothermal fluid can force its way through, eating away at the base rock and remineralizing it with new metals as it goes. That can happen! We call it a porphyry deposit, particularly in igneous rock. It’s not exactly surprising that a hydrothermal fluid would find igneous rock: the fluid is volcanic in origin, after all, just like igneous rock. (That’s the definition of igneous: a rock of volcanic origin.) Igneous rocks, like granite, tend not to be terribly reactive so the fluid can diffuse through relatively unchanged.

Igneous rocks aren’t the only option, though. If the hydrothermal fluid hits carbonates, well, I did mention it’s acidic, right? Acid and carbonates are not friends, so all sorts of chemistry happens, such that geologists give the resulting metamorphic formation a special name: skarn. Though similar in origin, skarns are often considered a different type of deposit, so we’ll talk about the simpler case, diffusion through non-reactive rocks, before getting back to the rocks that sound like an 80s fantasy villain. (Beware Lord Skarn!)

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Fail Of The Week: Beaker To Benchy More Bothersome Than Believed

Making nylon plastic from raw chemicals used to be a very common demo; depending where and when you grew up, you may well have done it in high school or even earlier. What’s not common is taking that nylon and doing something with it, like, say extruding it into filament to make a benchy. [Startup Chuck] shows us there might be a reason for that. (Video, embedded below.)

It starts out well enough: sebacoyl chloride and hexamethaline diamine mix up and do their polymerizing tango to make some nylon, just like we remember. (Some of us also got to play with mercury bare-handed; safety standards have changed and you’ll want to be very careful if you try this reaction at home). The string of nylon [Chuck] pulls from the beaker even looks a little bit like filament for a second, at least until it breaks and gets tossed into a blobby mess. We wonder if it would be possible to pull nylon directly into 1.75 mm filament with the proper technique, but quality control would be a big issue. Even if you could get a consistent diameter, there’d likely be too much solvent trapped inside to safely print.

Of course, melting the nylon with a blowtorch and trying to manually push the liquid through a die to create filament has its own quality control problems. That’s actually where this ends: no filament, and definitely no benchy. [Chuck] leaves the challenge open to anyone else who wants to take the crown. Perhaps one of you can show him how it’s done. We suspect it would be easiest to dry the homemade nylon and shred it into granules and only then extrude them, like was done with polypropylene in this mask-recycling project. Making filament from granules or pellets is something we’ve seen more than once over the years.

If you really want to make plastic from scratch, ordering monomers from Sigma-Aldrich might not cut it for ultimate bragging rights; other people are starting with pulling CO2 from the atmosphere.

Thanks to [Chaz] for the tip! Remember that the tips line isn’t just for your successes– anything interesting can find its home here.

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Left: old and busted. Right: New hotness.

Game Of Theseus Gets Graphics Upgrade, Force Feedback 30 Years On

Indycar Racing 2 was a good game, back in 1995; in some ways, it was the Crysis of the Clinton years, in that most mortals could not run it to its full potential when it was new. Still, that potential was surely fairly limited, as we’re talking about a DOS game from 30 years ago. Sure, it was limited– but limits are meant to be broken, and games are made to be modded. [TedMeat] has made a video showing the updates. (Embedded below.)

It turns out there was a 3D-accelerated version sold with the short-lived Rendition graphics cards. That version is what let the community upscale everything to the absurd resolutions our modern monitors are capable of. Goodbye SVGA, hello HD. Specifically, [sharangad] has created a wrapper to translate the Rendition API to modern hardware. It doesn’t sound like higher-res textures have been modded in, in which case this looks spectacular for graphics designed in 1995. It’s not the latest Forza, but for what it is, it impresses.

The second hack [TedMeat] discusses is a mod by [GPLaps] that pulls physics values from game memory to throw to a modern force-feedback wheel, and it shows just how good the physics was in 1995. You really can feel what’s going on– stopping a skid before it starts, for example. That’s normal these days, but for the kids playing with a keyboard in 1995, it would have been totally mind-blowing.

As tipster [Keith Olson] put it: “What can I say? Fans gonna fan!” — and we’re just as grateful for that fact as we are for the tipoff. If you’re in a fandom that’s hacked its way to keep old favourites alive, we’d love to hear about it: submit a tip.

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A Solar Oven For Cloudy Days

Every Boy Scout or Girl Guide probably had the experience of building a simple solar oven: an insulated box, some aluminum foil, and plastic wrap, and voila! On warm, sunny, summer days, you can bake. On cloudy days, well, you need another plan. The redoubtable [Kris De Decker] and [Marie Verdeil] provide one, with this solar-electric oven over on LowTechMagazine.

Now, you might be wondering: what’s special here? Can’t I just plug a full electric range-oven into the inverter hooked to my Powerwall? Well, yes, Moneybags, you could — if you had a large enough solar setup to offset the storage and inverter losses, that is. But if you only have a few panels, you need to make every watt count. Indeed, this build was inspired by [Kris]’ earlier attempt to power his apartment with solar panels on his balcony. His electric oven is one of the things that stymied him at that time. (Not because cooking took too much energy, but because it took too much power for his tiny battery to supply at once.)

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