Tiny Games Challenge: A Retro Racing Game On A 16×2 LCD

Sometimes, all it takes is a change in perspective to take something boring and make it fun. That’s true about 16×2 LCD; in its usual landscape format, it’s a quick and easy way to provide a character-based display for a project. But flip it 90 degrees and use a little imagination, and it can become a cool retro racing game that fits in the palm of your hand.

[arduinocelantano] has made it a habit to press the humble 16×2 character LCD into service in ways it clearly wasn’t intended to support, such as playing Space Invaders and streaming video on it. Both of these projects seem to inform the current work, which was one of the first entries in our current Tiny Games Challenge contest. The racing game requires multiple sprites to animate the roadway and the cars, using six “layers” of eight custom characters and rapidly switching between them to create the appearance of movement. The video below has a brief sample of gameplay.

Flipping the display on its side makes for a somewhat limited game — it’s all straightaway, all the time — but that could probably be fixed. [arduinocelentano] suggests scaling it up to a 16×4 to include curves, but we’d bet you could still simulate curves on the upper part of the game field while leaving the player’s car fixed on a straight section. Higher difficulties could be achieved by moving the curved section closer to the player’s position.

Sure, it’s limited, but that’s half the charm of games like these. If you’ve got an idea for our Tiny Games Challenge, head over to our contest page and let us know about it. We’re keen to see what you come up with.

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Need A Tube? Reach For Plywood!

To be clear, when we are talking about tubes, we mean ordinary cylinders, not vacuum-amplifying elements. With that out of the way, when we need a tube like that, we usually think of PVC or some other kind of pipe product. Or maybe we’ll 3D print what we need. But not [GregO29]. He made his tubes from plywood.

You can make tubes as small as 12 inches in diameter, and [GregO29] made some that were 16 inches. The first step was to make a mold or form. In this case, he elected to make a form that the tube-to-be wraps around. The plywood is thin 2-ply white birch. This makes it easy to shape.

The basic idea is to wrap the wood around the form and glue it. You hold it together with a strap until it dries. Then, you can add more layers until it is the thickness you need.

The real problem turned out to be removing the form once it was done. Why make a tube like this? In [Greg]’s case, he’s building a telescope, which is as good a reason as any to have a tube, we suppose.

We build a lot of things, but we always forget about plywood. It even mixes well with electricity.

Colour Film Processing For The 2020s Hacker

We’re now somewhere over two decades since the mass adoption of digital photography made chemical film obsolete in a very short time, but the older technology remains in use by artists and enthusiasts. There’s no longer a speedy developing service at you local mall though, so unless you don’t mind waiting for one of the few remaining professional labs you’ll be doing it yourself. Black-and-white is relatively straightforward, but colour is another matter. [Jason Koebler] has set up his own colour processing lab, and takes us through the difficult and sometimes frustrating process.

From an exhaustive list of everything required, to a description of the ups and downs of loading a Patterson tank and the vagiuaries of developer chemicals, we certainly recognise quite a bit of his efforts from the Hackaday black-and-white lab. But this is 2024 so there’s a step from days past that’s missing. We no longer print our photos, instead we scan the negatives and process then digitally, and it’s here that some of the good advice lies.

What this piece shows us is that colour developing is certainly achievable even if the results in a home lab can be variable. If you’re up for trying it, you can always automate some of the process.

A person putting a screw into a CNC spoil board on the left of the image. Their drill is chartreuse and black. Clamps hold a rectangular board down at all four corners. The spindle of the CNC is just visible on the right hand side of the image.

Workholding Options For The Beginner CNC Operator

Designing a file to cut on a CNC is only part of the process. You also have to keep it in place while the machine does its work. [Garrett Fromme] walks us through five different work holding techniques.

Since every project is different and stock material can vary from thin veneer to much larger pieces, there’s no one right work holding method for every project, and not all methods are applicable to all materials. A vise is great for small projects that need to be held very securely and won’t be damaged, vacuum tables can make switching pieces quick in a production environment, fasteners will hold a piece securely at the expense of your spoil board, clamps are fairly versatile but fiddly to setup, and tape and CA glue are quick but require more consumables.

[Fromme] does a quick demonstration of setups with these different methods and their limitations, which is a great place to start for the beginner CNC operator. Just like 3D printers, CNCs are a far cry from the replicators in Star Trek that can automagically create what you ask it to, but proper workholding lets you waste less material and operate the machine more safely.

Our own [Elliot Williams] had a look at how CNCs aren’t as automated as you think. If you do need some CNC clamps, you might try these printable parametric clamps, or if you want something more beautiful, give these metal toe clamps a go.

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Automatic Garbage Can Keeps Cooking Cleaner

Over the last decade or so, we’ve been inundated with appliances with wireless or “smart” technology that is often of dubious utility. No one really needs a tablet in their refrigerator or Wi-Fi on their coffee maker. A less glamorous kitchen appliance that actually might benefit from some automation and connectivity is the garbage can, or “bin” for those speaking the Queen’s English, and [Mellow_Labs] is here to show off just how to get that done with this automatic garbage can lid.

As he explains, the real impetus behind this build is to not have to touch a dirty lid while cooking to avoid having to take time to wash one’s hands again afterwards. There are a few other design criteria as well; it has to be roommate-approved so nothing permanently attached to the lid, overly complicated, or with an unnecessary amount of wires or other fixtures. A servo with an extension sits on the lid itself, and when activated forces the lid open. A distance sensor provides basic gesture recognition and a microcontroller with wireless connectivity controls both and provides home automation integration as well. With a 3D printed case that includes a quick disconnect function for easy cleaning of the lid, the build was ready to be put into service.

The first iteration used an infrared distance sensor, but placing it by an open window caused it to continuously open and close since sunlight has the same wavelengths of light the sensor is tuned for. A quick swap with an ultrasonic sensor solved the problem, and the garbage can is working flawlessly in the kitchen now. Another appliance that is generally not targeted by off-the-shelf automation solutions is the range fume hood, but another build tackled that problem a while back.

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A fast-looking hand plays a reaction time game.

2024 Tiny Games Challenge: Improving Reaction Time

What lies at the heart of many games? In a sense, it’s your response time, which is a function of hand-eye coordination. Although the 2024 Business Card Challenge has come to a close, [gokux] tends to go small anyway, and has taken their miniature approach to the Tiny Games Challenge with this awesome little reaction time game.

It’s basically whack-a-mole, but instead of striking down fuzzy puppets, you get fast and furious on big buttons that light up. Press any button to start, and there is a 3-2-1 countdown to get you geared up for action. Once the screen says ‘GO’, you’re off to the races. Each of the four buttons will light up in random order, and your overall response time is taken as the average of these four.

While there are many microcontrollers that would work here, [gokux] chose the Seeed Studio Xiao ESP32-C3. If you want to make one of these for yourself, there are excellent build instructions waiting for you. Be sure to check it out in action after the break. Oh, and be sure to let [gokux] know if you can beat 220 ms.

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Illustrated Kristina with an IBM Model M keyboard floating between her hands.

Keebin’ With Kristina: The One With The Key Cap Map

So, [zyumbik]’s trademark seems to be sexing things up, and the Artsey layout did not escape their gaze. This is the Sexy Artsey. Let’s back up a bit.

A pink and purple 10-key keyboard with a rotary encoder, spikes, and a custom area with LEGO attached.
Image by [zyumbik] via reddit
Artsey is a keyboard layout for chording, and this keyboard is built for it. It’s a one-handed keyboard meant for pressing multiple keys at a time to produce each character. With some use, [zyumbik] discovered that the Taipo layout might be a better fit, so there are currently some elements of both.

If you’d like to make this adorable keyboard, everything is waiting for you to download, including files for various thingamabobs you can stick on the side there where the rainbow is now. There’s also a groovy flower version of the knob.

Controller-wise, you can use a Seeed Studio Xiao in either BLE or RP2040 format, or the Waveshare RP2040 Zero. The firmware is written in ZMK.

Remember the death metal macropad? (Who could forget that tentacled nightmare?) This is the same creator. Kind of hard to believe, innit? Well, except for the spikes. Apparently they’re for thumb discipline.

Via reddit

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