LayerLapse Simplifies 3D Printer Time-lapse Shots

April 8, 2025 by Tom Nardi 15 Comments

We know you’ve seen them: the time-lapses that show a 3D print coming together layer-by-layer without the extruder taking up half the frame. It takes a little extra work compared to just pointing a camera at the build plate, but it’s worth it to see your prints materialize like magic.

Usually these are done with a plugin for OctoPrint, but with all due respect to that phenomenal project, it’s a lot to get set up if you just want to take some pretty pictures. Which is why [Whopper Printing] put together the LayerLapse. This small PCB is designed to trigger your DSLR or mirrorless camera once its remotely-mounted hall effect sensor detects the presence of a magnet.

The idea is that you just need to stick a small magnet to your extruder, add a bit of extra G-code that will park it over the sensor at the end of each layer, and you’re good to go. There’s even a spare GPIO pin broken out should you want to trigger something else on each layer of your print. Admittedly we can’t think of anything else right now that would make sense, other than some other type of camera, but we’re sure some creative folks out there could put this feature to use.

Currently, [Whopper Printing] is selling the LayerLapse as a finished product, though it does sound like a kit version is in the works. There’s also instructions for building a DIY version of the hardware using your microcontroller of choice. Whether you buy or build the hardware, the firmware is available under the MIT license for your tinkering pleasure.

Being hardware hackers, we appreciate the stand-alone nature of this solution. But if you’re already controlling your printer through OctoPrint, you’re probably better off just setting up one of the available time-lapse plugins.

3D Print (and Play!) The Super Mario Tune As A Fidget Toy

April 4, 2025 by Donald Papp 34 Comments

[kida] has a highly innovative set of 3D-printable, musical fidget toys that play classic video game tunes. Of course there’s the classic Super Mario ditty, but there’s loads more. How they work is pretty nifty, and makes great use of a 3D printer’s strengths.

To play the device one uses a finger to drag a tab (or striker) across the top, and as it does so it twangs vertical tines one-by-one. Each tine emits a particular note — defined by how tall the thicker part is — and plays a short tune as a result. Each one plays a preprogrammed melody, with the tempo and timing up to the user. Listen to them in action in the videos embedded just under the page break!

There are some really clever bits to the design. One is that the gadget is made in two halves, which effectively doubles the notes one can fit into the space. Another is that it’s designed so that holding it against something like a tabletop makes it louder because the surface acts like a sounding board. Finally, the design is easily modified so making new tunes is easy. [kida]’s original design has loads of non-videogame tunes (like the Jeopardy! waiting theme) as well as full instructions on making your very own versions.

Fidget toys are a niche all their own when it comes to 3D printed devices. The fidget knife has a satisfying snap action to it, and this printable linear toggle design is practically a fidget toy all on its own.

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Piezo Sensor Reviewed

March 22, 2025 by Al Williams 16 Comments

If you do FDM 3D printing, you know one of the biggest problems is sensing the bed. Nearly all printers have some kind of bed probing now, and it makes printing much easier, but there are many different schemes for figuring out where the bed is relative to the head. [ModBot] had a Voron with a clicky probe but wanted to reclaim the space it used for other purposes. In the video, also linked below, he reviews the E3D PZ probe which is a piezoelectric washer, and the associated electronics to sense your nozzle crashing into your print bed.

There are many options, and it seems like each has its pros and cons. We do like solutions that actually figure out where the tip is so you don’t have to mess with offsets as you do with probes that measure from a probe tip instead of the print head.

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Cheap Endoscopic Camera Helps Automate Pressure Advance Calibration

March 21, 2025 by Dan Maloney 27 Comments

The difference between 3D printing and good 3D printing comes down to attention to detail. There are so many settings and so many variables, each of which seems to impact the other to a degree that can make setting things up a maddening process. That makes anything that simplifies the process, such as this computer vision pressure advance attachment, a welcome addition to the printing toolchain.

If you haven’t run into the term “pressure advance” for FDM printing before, fear not; it’s pretty intuitive. It’s just a way to compensate for the elasticity of the molten plastic column in the extruder, which can cause variations in the amount of material deposited when the print head acceleration changes, such as at corners or when starting a new layer.

To automate his pressure advance calibration process, [Marius Wachtler] attached one of those dirt-cheap endoscope cameras to the print head of his modified Ender 3, pointing straight down and square with the bed. A test grid is printed in a corner of the bed, with each arm printed using a slightly different pressure advance setting. The camera takes a photo of the pattern, which is processed by computer vision to remove the background and measure the thickness of each line. The line with the least variation wins, and the pressure advance setting used to print that line is used for the rest of the print — no blubs, no blebs.

We’ve seen other pressure-advanced calibrators before, but we like this one because it seems so cheap and easy to put together. True, it does mean sending images off to the cloud for analysis, but that seems a small price to pay for the convenience. And [Marius] is hopeful that he’ll be able to run the model locally at some point; we’re looking forward to that.

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Make Fancy Resin Printer 3D Models FDM-Friendly

March 19, 2025 by Donald Papp 17 Comments

Do you like high-detail 3D models intended for resin printing, but wish you could more easily print them on a filament-based FDM printer? Good news, because [Jacob] of Painted4Combat shared a tool he created to make 3D models meant for resin printers — the kind popular with tabletop gamers — easier to port to FDM. It comes in the form of a Blender add-on called Resin2FDM. Intrigued, but wary of your own lack of experience with Blender? No problem, because he also made a video that walks you through the whole thing step-by-step.

Resin2FDM separates the model from the support structure, then converts the support structure to be FDM-friendly.

3D models intended for resin printing aren’t actually any different, format-wise, from models intended for FDM printers. The differences all come down to the features of the model and how well the printer can execute them. Resin printing is very different from FDM, so printing a model on the “wrong” type of printer will often have disappointing results. Let’s look at why that is, to better understand what makes [Jacob]’s tool so useful.

Rafts and a forest of thin tree-like supports are common in resin printing. In the tabletop gaming scene, many models come pre-supported for convenience. A fair bit of work goes into optimizing the orientation of everything for best printed results, but the benefits don’t carry directly over to FDM.

For one thing, supports for resin prints are usually too small for an FDM printer to properly execute — they tend to be very thin and very tall, which is probably the least favorable shape for FDM printing. In addition, contact points where each support tapers down to a small point that connects to the model are especially troublesome; FDM slicer software will often simply consider those features too small to bother trying to print. Supports that work on a resin printer tend to be too small or too weak to be effective on FDM, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

To solve this, [Jacob]’s tool allows one to separate the model itself from the support structure. Once that is done, the tool further allows one to tweak the nest of supports, thickening them up just enough to successfully print on an FDM printer, while leaving the main model unchanged. The result is a support structure that prints well via FDM, allowing the model itself to come out nicely, with a minimum of alterations to the original.

Resin2FDM is available in two versions, the Lite version is free and an advanced version with more features is available to [Jacob]’s Patreon subscribers. The video (embedded below) covers everything from installation to use, and includes some general tips for best results. Check it out if you’re interested in how [Jacob] solved this problem, and keep it in mind for the next time you run across a pre-supported model intended for resin printing that you wish you could print with FDM.

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3D Printed Brick Layers For Everyone

March 17, 2025 by Al Williams 18 Comments

Some slicers have introduced brick layers, and more slicers plan to add them. Until that happens, you can use this new script from [Geek Detour] to get brick layer goodness on Prusa, Orca, and Bambu slicers. Check out the video below for more details.

The idea behind brick layers is that outer walls can be stronger if they are staggered vertically so each layer interlocks with the layer below it. The pattern resembles a series of interlocking bricks and can drastically increase strength. Apparently, using the script breaks the canceling object functionality in some printers, but that’s a small price to pay. Multi-material isn’t an option either, but — typically — you’ll want to use the technique on functional parts, which you probably aren’t printing in colors. Also, the Arachne algorithm option only works reliably on Prusa slicer, so far.

The video covers a lot of detail on how hard it was to do this in an external script, and we are impressed. It should be easier to write inside the slicer since it already has to figure out much of the geometry that this script has to figure out by observation.

If you want more information, we’ve covered brick layers (and the controversy around them) back in November. Of course, scripts that add functions to slicers, tend to get outdated once the slicers catch up.

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Trio Of Mods Makes Delta Printer More Responsive, Easier To Use

March 7, 2025 by Dan Maloney 9 Comments

Just about any 3D printer can be satisfying to watch as it works, but delta-style printers are especially hypnotic. There’s just something about the way that three linear motions add up to all kinds of complex shapes; it’s mesmerizing. Deltas aren’t without their problems, though, which led [Bruno Schwander] to undertake a trio of interesting mods on his Anycubic Kossel.

First up was an effort to reduce the mass of the business end of the printer, which can help positional accuracy and repeatability. This started with replacing the stock hot-end with a smaller, lighter MQ Mozzie, but that led to cooling problems that [Bruno] addressed with a ridiculously overpowered brushless hairdryer fan. The fan expects a 0 to 5-VDC signal for the BLDC controller, which meant he had to build an adapter to allow Marlin’s 12-volt PWM signal to control the fan.

Once the beast of a fan was tamed, [Bruno] came up with a clever remote mount for it. A 3D-printed shroud allowed him to mount the fan and adapter to the frame of the printer, with a flexible duct connecting it to the hot-end. The duct is made from lightweight nylon fabric with elastic material sewn into it to keep it from taut as the printhead moves around, looking a bit like an elephant’s trunk.

Finally, to solve his pet peeve of setting up and using the stock Z-probe, [Bruno] turned the entire print bed into a strain-gauge sensor. This took some doing, which the blog post details nicely, but it required building a composite spacer ring for the glass print bed to mount twelve strain gauges that are read by the venerable HX711 amplifier and an Arduino, which sends a signal to Marlin when the head touches the bed. The video below shows it and the remote fan in action.

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